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#1. Re: [E36M3] New owner, swaybar question - from Chris Teague
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Date: Mon, 29 May 2006 20:43:47 -0700 From: "Chris Teague" <cteague@cox.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] New owner, swaybar question Paul, I've seen them crack, so I'd put in the reinforcements. Chris ----- Original Message ----- From: "Paul Andrews" <emosound@verizon.net> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Sunday, May 28, 2006 9:05 AM Subject: [E36M3] New owner, swaybar question > Date: Sun, 28 May 2006 11:55:50 -0400 > From: "Paul Andrews" <emosound@verizon.net> > Subject: New owner, swaybar question > > Hey all, > I've been lurking on the list for a week or 2, so it's time for some > questions.... > I've owned my M3/4 for a month now, and autocrossed it twice. Time to > start the mods: I have H&R swaybars on order to help reduce the body > roll. Some on the various forums really suggest the rear swaybar mount > reinforcements from Turner or GC. I ordered the cheap GC ones, and > figured out how they line up. > The car is going to Bimmerworks on Tuesday, should I have them do this > right away? Steve says he has never seen this issue, have you guys who > autocross with bigger swaybars had issues with the rear swaybar mounts > cracking or tearing off? > > > -Paul Andrews > 98 M3/4 Alpine White <----- Loving it! > > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > >
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#2. RE: Raising seats - from Stan Shaw
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Date: Mon, 29 May 2006 23:58:41 -0400 From: "Stan Shaw" <Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net> Subject: RE: Raising seats I have always thought the less my wife can see when I am driving the better.... :) P.S. Married 28 years this June 3rd Regards, Stan Shaw Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net Phone: (413) 599-0399 Fax: (413) 599-0421 Excell.Net Owner/Operator http://www.Excell.Net/ 928 Owners Club President http://www.928OC.org/ 928Racing.net Team Member http://www.928Racing.net/ "Liberty once lost is lost forever." - John Adams
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Something is probably not working right, huh? - from Carlos.F.Lopez@jci.com
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Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 08:12:21 -0400 From: Carlos.F.Lopez@jci.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Something is probably not working right, huh? Wow you're braver than I am. I had a bit of an issue on track on Sunday when I noticed the stock temp gauge moving from the 12 o'clock position which on these cars I know it indicates a problem. It's not a real temp gauge as far as I understand it. I drove slowly until I could get off the track and I coasted to my paddock spot really hoping I didn't do any damage. Car was hissing from under the intake manifold so I believe I have a heater hose leak of some sort, actually the hose may have a pin hole or something along those lines. I'm going to replace all my hoses anyway. Next step is to install gauges so I can monitor engine temps (like you did) but I'm going with a coolant temp gauge as well. Hope everything is OK with your car. -Carlos. 98 M3
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#4. Re: [E36M3] E30 oil leak question - from Scott Spangenberg
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Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 05:46:41 -0700 (PDT) From: Scott Spangenberg <cpmustang2001@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] E30 oil leak question Walter, Now that sounds like a likely culprit for my oil leak. I will look closely at the filter housing now that I have everything cleaned up. Thanks! -Scott --- Walter J <m3gtr@adelphia.net> wrote: > Date: Mon, 29 May 2006 23:27:33 -0400 > From: Walter J <m3gtr@adelphia.net> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] E30 oil leak question > > Scott Spangenberg wrote: > > > I thought I would ask if there is a common oil > >leak source on the E30 325's as they age. > > > > > > > Scott - at the front of the oil filter housing there > is a small spring > clip and cover for the oil cooler t-stat... it leaks > a lot of oil in > very subtle way and appears to be a crank seal. > There is a kit from BMW > that has a new cover , seal and spring and costs > approx $14. > > -- > Walter > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our > sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance > http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. > http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com
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#5. Re: Something is probably not working right, huh? - from Rich Dorffer
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Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 10:04:39 -0400 From: "Rich Dorffer" <E36M3Digest@gmail.com> Subject: Re: Something is probably not working right, huh? > > From: "Som Naderi" som@dimensionracing.com > > A couple months ago, somehow, a few random blades broke off my fan. Don't > know how. Not really thinking much of it, I unintentionally ran it > lopsided > for about a month That was really not a very smart thing to do, it would have been much smarter to immediately remove it and run without it. First off, the unbalanced assembly will ruin the water pump quickly and the remaining blades could fly off breaking other items, hitting the radiator of coolant hoses, denting the hood, whatever. I was worried about the water pump > bearings from running lopsided, but at that point there didn't seem to be > any adverse affects. Well, once the water pump bearings are shot from running a broken fan, it will start leaking. > Saturday morning at Thunderhill I notice my car is leaking water/coolant. > Crap. Yes, yes, I should have done something at this point, but I didn't. You ran at the track with a fan with blades missing? > I was working on the safety truck anyway. Anyways, leaking is coming from > the > water pump, but it's slow. See above. > Sunday evening - my planned trip back down to San Diego. I fill up the > reservoir. As I'm leaving the paddock, I'm noticing the leaking seems > worse. Almost a steady (yet thin) stream. > > I figured I'd give it a go. Rationale: I suspected that, possibly, when > the thermostat opened that the *flowing* water/coolant would actually be > easier on the water pump seal. No, not really. > I have an oil temp gauge. I figured I could > keep a precise eye on the engine temp with this so if I noticed any > temperatures out of the ordinary I could catch them quickly and pull over. Nope, if the coolant isn't flowing (or is missing), areas of the head and block can get extremely hot way before it might be reflected in elevated oil temps. > Also, I had a friend to shadow me for about the first 50 miles in case > something went wrong. The only thing he could do is give you a lift home as soon as the car breaks completely. > My conclusion: the oil temperature sensor isn't isolated enough to give an > accurate oil temperate reading. While the smooth cylindrical part of the > sensor fit inside the JTD oil distro block, I wasn't able to get all the > threads to screw in. However, since it never leaked oil, I never > concerned > myself with it. Well, I'm guessing that having the threads of the sensor > exposed is allowing heat to dissipate from the sensor metals and resulting > in a low reading. Only thing is. again. 100 degrees off?? I'm almost > thinking the sensor (or gauge?) is busted, period. You don't want the oil temp sensor "isolated", you want it where there is good flow of oil. Your oil temps seem very low. What do you mean you couldn't get all the threads to screw in, threads of what (a banjo bolt, a sensor)? > - how much disparity can one expect between the oil temperature and the > water temperature? A lot. The coolant system can warm up pretty quickly, the oil is much slower. > - with the amount of movement I described on the water temp gauge, have I > put my engine (head gasket) at any significant risk? Again, it never made > it close to the red, but it did move significantly from 12 o'clock. Yes, running the way you did (broken fan ruining the water pump) was quite frankly, really stupid. Hopefully, the water pump kept fluid circulating, if not, your head could definitely be warped. > - does "sensor isolation" sound like a reasonable analysis of what went > wrong with my oil temp gauge? No, not really, the oil distribution block works as a method of getting a proper oil temp. Regards, Rich
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#6. CD43 will work in your '93 - from Peter
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Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 10:24:17 -0500 From: Peter <JPWheelr@dakarm3.com> Subject: CD43 will work in your '93 Actually the CD43 works fine in any 1992-2002 model car, even the E38. The i-Bus section is only in regards to the cd changer, and if you are still using the factory changer in a 93 model, you'll be due for a new one soon... Plus, with in dash, who needs a changer? As far as quality + value of the CD43. It's a pretty terrible head unit for the money. My $250-$400 would rather go to a used alpine CDA-9835 or (at worst, and I really hate Nak) Nakamichi CD300 / CD400 (color matching and MP3) So, don't be upset. It does work in your 1993 325is (I used one in mine, NEVER EVER AGAIN) Even if it didn't, it's not the end all be all of head units, actually very far from. -------------------- 1 -------------------- Date: Thu, 25 May 2006 16:34:12 -0700 From: Steve Walsh <stevewalsh@earthlink.net> Subject: CD43 headunits IIRC, these only work with the I-Bus equipped cars. I know it doesn't work in my 93 325is (grumble)...
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#7. RE: [E36M3] New owner, swaybar question - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 10:15:44 -0700 (PDT) From: "Jim Bassett" <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] New owner, swaybar question On Sun, May 28, 2006 6:55 pm, Paul Andrews said: > I bought a sedan, in theory > they're stiffer, right? Not according to BMW's specs they're not, IIRC. > Does a STB help in this area? Which one? (I > found the very nice JTD piece--$549--AAGH!) For serious track/auto-x work, a STB is a good idea (too bad you can't add the x-brace, another worthwhile upgrade). And yes, the JTD one is very nice - I have one on the race car :-) Cheers, Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4 - former track/auto-x car 1993 325is #44 JP - bottomless pit? Ha! You have no idea :-)
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#8. Re: [E36M3] CD43 will work in your '93 - from Kent Shephard
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Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 10:21:31 -0700 From: Kent Shephard <Kents@kls-consulting.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] CD43 will work in your '93 Hi, Just to chime in here. The Kenwood head units work real well with the stock system. I got rid of my stock head unit after it developed issues. The only real cool feature that I miss from the stock unit is the volume increase as the speed increases. Oh, well. I can live without it. I now have in dash CD, Sirius and a Kenwood iPod interface. This all for about what a CD43 will run. Kent Shephard kents@kshephard.com On May 30, 2006, at 8:25 AM, Peter wrote: > Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 10:24:17 -0500 > From: Peter <JPWheelr@dakarm3.com> > Subject: CD43 will work in your '93 > > Actually the CD43 works fine in any 1992-2002 model car, even the > E38. The i-Bus section is only in regards to the cd changer, and > if you are still using the factory changer in a 93 model, you'll be > due for a new one soon... Plus, with in dash, who needs a changer? > > As far as quality + value of the CD43. It's a pretty terrible head > unit for the money. My $250-$400 would rather go to a used alpine > CDA-9835 or (at worst, and I really hate Nak) Nakamichi CD300 / > CD400 (color matching and MP3) > > So, don't be upset. > It does work in your 1993 325is (I used one in mine, NEVER EVER AGAIN) > Even if it didn't, it's not the end all be all of head units, > actually very far from. > > > > > -------------------- 1 -------------------- > Date: Thu, 25 May 2006 16:34:12 -0700 > From: Steve Walsh <stevewalsh@earthlink.net> > Subject: CD43 headunits > > IIRC, these only work with the I-Bus equipped cars. I know it > doesn't work > in my 93 325is (grumble)... > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > >
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#9. RE: [E36M3] New owner, swaybar question - from Goss, Patrick - PA
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Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 12:50:02 -0500 From: "Goss, Patrick - PA" <Patrick.Goss@GMACM.COM> Subject: RE: [E36M3] New owner, swaybar question Wait a minute, I've heard many times before the x-brace goes on the 4 doors the same as the 2 door. Could Jim be wrong? Could I be wrong. Darn newbie Paul (hey buddy), messing up my dreams of x-bracing my 4 door. Patrick Goss 97 M3/4 for sale if I can't put on an x-brace -----Original Message----- From: Jim Bassett [mailto:jim@jimbassett.com] Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2006 1:25 PM To: E36M3 Subject: RE: [E36M3] New owner, swaybar question Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 10:15:44 -0700 (PDT) From: "Jim Bassett" <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] New owner, swaybar question On Sun, May 28, 2006 6:55 pm, Paul Andrews said: > I bought a sedan, in theory > they're stiffer, right? Not according to BMW's specs they're not, IIRC. > Does a STB help in this area? Which one? (I > found the very nice JTD piece--$549--AAGH!) For serious track/auto-x work, a STB is a good idea (too bad you can't add the x-brace, another worthwhile upgrade). And yes, the JTD one is very nice - I have one on the race car :-) Cheers, Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4 - former track/auto-x car 1993 325is #44 JP - bottomless pit? Ha! You have no idea :-) ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#10. RE: [E36M3] New owner, swaybar question - from cteague@cox.net
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Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 13:51:42 -0400 From: <cteague@cox.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] New owner, swaybar question Jim, I think Paul meant chassis stiffness. Anyway, the springs are the same, but supposedly the 4 door had a slightly higher torsional stiffness. Doesn't matter if you put a full cage inside of course. Some of the 4 doors, like mine, don't have the fold down seats. Instead, I have a nice welded in shear panel behind the rear seat which probably helps some also. Chris 97 M3/4 > On Sun, May 28, 2006 6:55 pm, Paul Andrews said: > > I bought a sedan, in theory > > they're stiffer, right? > > Not according to BMW's specs they're not, IIRC. >