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#1. Re: [E36M3] New owner, swaybar question - from Chris Teague
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Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 20:17:48 -0700 From: "Chris Teague" <cteague@cox.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] New owner, swaybar question Scott, The rear shock braces I've seen won't change the torsional stiffness of the chassis at all. The shear panel behind the rear seat will. But from what I've seen on my car (which has the panel), and others, I don't think it is an easy change at all. Now if you are building a race car, no big deal, since you can run tubes and stiffeners anywhere, and weld in what you need. Chris 97 M3/4 ----- Original Message ----- Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 12:21:33 -0700 From: "Scott Stiles" <stiles_s@hotmail.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] New owner, swaybar question I always wondered what was behind the seat on a non-fold car. Can anyone comment on whether this panel can easily a) be sourced, and b) be welded into a fold-down-seat car? Seems like this would be *way* more effective at stiffening the car than a rear shock brace. Thanks, Scott.
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#2. Re: [E36M3] [OT] - My New M Roadster Pics - from Mark D
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Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 23:35:15 -0400 From: Mark D <mdlkml@atari-source.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] [OT] - My New M Roadster Pics 1200 miles already!? I APPROVE! Congrats on a wonderful purchase. Thanks, Mark On Tue, 2006-05-30 at 17:25 -0500, Jamie Howton wrote: > Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 17:19:22 -0500 > From: "Jamie Howton" <jhowton@gmail.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] [OT] - My New M Roadster Pics > > > Beautiful car - great color. > > > > (Although the tan top & wood interior detracts a bit :-)) > > > > Jim Bassett - just jealous, that's all :-) > > Man, you are about the tenth guy to say they didn't like the wood > trim. I love it, but then again that's why I bought it... BTW, the > car had its 1200 mile service this morning so it is officially out of > the break-in period. Let the fun begin. > > Regards >
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#3. Re: Something is probably not working right, huh? - from Neil Maller
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Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 23:42:10 -0400 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Something is probably not working right, huh? on 5/30/06 11:25 PM, "Som Naderi" <som@dimensionracing.com> wrote: > Got the water pump ordered. Since I'm running without a fan, I've got room > for a DC motor in there, too... so I'm considering looking into designing an > electric water pump for the M3. I have the perfect guinea pig car. Heh... See: <http://www.stewartcomponents.net/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Categor y_Code=ElectPump> or of course: <http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=VB33&mospid=48523&btnr=11_375 4&hg=11&fg=35> Neil 96 M3
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Something is probably not working right, huh? - from Mark D
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Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 23:51:03 -0400 From: Mark D <mdlkml@atari-source.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Something is probably not working right, huh? On Tue, 2006-05-30 at 17:35 -0500, Som Naderi wrote: > Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 15:29:21 -0700 > From: "Som Naderi" <som@dimensionracing.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Something is probably not working right, huh? > > >> From: "Som Naderi" som@dimensionracing.com > >> > >> A couple months ago, somehow, a few random blades broke off my fan. > >> Don't know how. Not really thinking much of it, I unintentionally > >> ran it lopsided for about a month > > > >That was really not a very smart thing to do, it would have been much > >smarter to immediately remove it and run without it. First off, the > >unbalanced assembly will ruin the water pump quickly and the remaining > >blades could fly off breaking other items, hitting the radiator of > >coolant hoses, denting the hood, whatever. > > Nothing really stood out as being damaged, but I'll look again. > I haven't chimed in yet. Trashed water pump bearings won't stand out in any way other than coolant leaking from the weep holes. Your water pump is trashed. > >> Saturday morning at Thunderhill I notice my car is leaking water/coolant. > >> Crap. Yes, yes, I should have done something at this point, but I > >> didn't. > > > You ran at the track with a fan with blades missing? > > No, I have been running without a fan for almost a month now. I even ran > the car without the fan at Willow Springs 3 weeks ago -- no leaking problems > noticed. > You made it sound as though you drove the car home with several fan blades missing on the fan. This would be why your water pump is trashed, so which is it... fan or no. and even so, why no fan? tsk tsk. I don't know how good it is to give a car track duty without a radiator fan. Mine runs fairly often in this summer heat. If at some point you were running for any significant time with missing fan blades, that's probably what caused your water pump to break... It could be a delayed reaction type of deal. The heads will do that too when you run them dry of coolant. You should be taking this more seriously I think. It is a $6000 engine and all. > >> Sunday evening - my planned trip back down to San Diego. I fill up > >> the reservoir. As I'm leaving the paddock, I'm noticing the leaking > >> seems worse. Almost a steady (yet thin) stream. > >> > >> I figured I'd give it a go. Rationale: I suspected that, possibly, > >> when the thermostat opened that the *flowing* water/coolant would > >> actually be easier on the water pump seal. > > > > No, not really. > > Still not sure about this, though. I mean, the car did manage to go about > 400 miles before I really started losing too much water. Maybe a > combination of flowing water *and* having *some* of the water leak out > reduced the pressure on the seal? > Losing too much? Common theme here is that any coolant loss results in a screwed up head/head gasket replacement. 400 miles on a problematic cooling system just CANNOT be good. While driving your cooling system is running low pressure, especially if it's cool night air like in the 50's F or lower. It's possible that it wasn't leaking until you stopped and the heat built up a bit. > >> I have an oil temp gauge. I figured I could keep a precise eye on the > >> engine temp with this so if I noticed any temperatures out of the > >> ordinary I could catch them quickly and pull over. > > > Nope, if the coolant isn't flowing (or is missing), areas of the head > > and block can get extremely hot way before it might be reflected in > > elevated oil temps. > > True... I guess I was anticipating that I wouldn't lose water that fast and > that I would see the oil temp start to rise. I had planned on giving up if > I saw temps get higher than 180 degrees Fahrenheit (since I've never had > temps that high while at highway speeds). It never got past 175. > But the head is ULTRA fragile :( > >> Also, I had a friend to shadow me for about the first 50 miles in > >> case something went wrong. > > > The only thing he could do is give you a lift home as soon as the car > > breaks completely. > > That would have been the point. :) Actually, moreso that I would have > given up had I seen any unusually high oil temps. Again, my oil temp gauge > never saw temperatures above 175 degrees during the entire trip. > > >> My conclusion: the oil temperature sensor isn't isolated enough to > >> give an accurate oil temperate reading. While the smooth cylindrical > >> part of the sensor fit inside the JTD oil distro block, I wasn't able > >> to get all the threads to screw in. However, since it never leaked > >> oil, I never concerned myself with it. Well, I'm guessing that > >> having the threads of the sensor exposed is allowing heat to > >> dissipate from the sensor metals and resulting in a low reading. Only > thing is. again. 100 degrees off?? > >> I'm almost thinking the sensor (or gauge?) is busted, period. > > > You don't want the oil temp sensor "isolated", you want it where there > > is good flow of oil. > > Your oil temps seem very low. What do you mean you couldn't get all > > the threads to screw in, threads of what (a banjo bolt, a sensor)? > > I don't mean isolated from the oil flow, I mean isolated from the external > elements. I'm wondering if air flowing into the engine bay (past the > radiator) was hitting the exposed threads of the oil temp sensor and cooling > down the metal -- causing a lower-than-actual reading. > > Better explanation: the oil temp sensor screws into a thread converter then > into the JTD block. The sensor is this shiny brass/gold/whatever little > cylinder piece and at the bottom it has several threads. I screwed it into > a thread converter and then into the JTD block, but it didn't go all the way > into the thread converter -- some of the threads were left exposed. It > never leaked, so I never really concerned myself with the fact that it > didn't screw in *all the way*. > > I'm wondering if those exposed threads are acting like a heatsink. With the > moving air in the engine bay, I'm wondering if the threads are cooling down > the sensor metal. > > So, yeah, I meant isolated from outside airflow as opposed to isolated from > the good oil flow. :) > this sounds a little plausible to me. Not sure what to think. > >> - how much disparity can one expect between the oil temperature and > >> the water temperature? > > > A lot. The coolant system can warm up pretty quickly, the oil is much > > slower. > > I guess what I was more curious about was the "steady state" temperatures. > Once everything has warmed up, how different would the two temperatures be? > The water absorbs heat faster, but it also has a huge radiator to cool it > down. I could see the water being overall hotter than the oil, but 100 > degrees seems like a lot. > > >> - with the amount of movement I described on the water temp gauge, > >> have I put my engine (head gasket) at any significant risk? Again, > >> it never made it close to the red, but it did move significantly from 12 > o'clock. > > > Yes, running the way you did (broken fan ruining the water pump) was > > quite frankly, really stupid. Hopefully, the water pump kept fluid > > circulating, if not, your head could definitely be warped. > > I didn't run it like that for long. Maybe a month or so... maybe five > hundred miles or so (I have a motorcycle as a daily driver/rider). It > didn't dawn on me right away that the broken fan would run so lopsided -- I > only made the correlation when I noticed my engine had been running "rough" > at idle for a few weeks dating back to roughly the time when the blades > broke. > > --- > > As for the trip down, each time I pulled over there was a significant amount > of water that poured all over the ground under the car. Between my first > stop and the second stop, I had driven for about 3 hours. If the flow from > the water pump seal had been the same throughout those 3 hours as it was > when I'd stopped, there's no way I would have had *any* water in the system. > > The only time I didn't leak *much* water when I pulled over was when I had > my hand over the heater to sense when the heater core had cooled off. I > pulled over right away at that point on the freeway and refilled. > > Also, something else I'm thinking about. I only poured water into my > system. The dilution would have slowly lowered my boiling point. Meaning > the fluid would expand to gas form (increasing pressure, exacerbating the > leak problem) at closer to the 212 degree temperature than the 265 (or so) > temperature that 50/50 coolant is supposed to have. So while I was losing > water faster than normal, my responses to it were likely happening when the > engine was at lower temperature as well. Who knows. > > Got the water pump ordered. Since I'm running without a fan, I've got room > for a DC motor in there, too... so I'm considering looking into designing an > electric water pump for the M3. I have the perfect guinea pig car. Heh... You must have lots and lots of money to burn! This is the most sensitive system in this car, and one that is sure to cause injury to your engine if you toy with it. Even if your head isn't leaking now, it might soon. Thanks, Mark
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#5. RE: [e36m3] Re: [E36M3] Re: Something is probably not working right, huh? - from Marco
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Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 20:52:00 -0700 From: "Marco" <m3driver@iname.com> Subject: RE: [e36m3] Re: [E36M3] Re: Something is probably not working right, huh? I did a non-scientific experiment a few years back. Wired up two oil senders, one to the oil pan, the other to the oil distro block. Had two gauges to round it out. While initially they read nearly identical temps the pan after a few laps would read about 20 degrees higher. For a street car it probably doesn't matter, for a race car running at 260 degrees or more who knows. I've kept mine in the pan, the other sender now reads my diff temp ;-) Marco -----Original Message----- From: Mark Dadgar [mailto:mark@pdc-racing.net] Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2006 7:25 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [e36m3] Re: [E36M3] Re: Something is probably not working right, huh? Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 19:18:39 -0700 From: Mark Dadgar <mark@pdc-racing.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Something is probably not working right, huh? On May 30, 2006, at 6:35 PM, david kroth wrote: >> No, not really, the oil distribution block works as >> a method of getting a >> proper oil temp. > > I'm with Marco on this one. The sensor should go in > the oil pan or filter can. The oil distribution > block does not allow significant flow of oil over > the sensor resulting in sluggish readings (it takes > time for heat to propagate to the sensor). > > As a warning signal, absolute temperature is not > as important as variance from "normal". You can argue this one the other way, too. The oil sits in the pan too long, with too much airflow over a large metal surface area, to give a realistic reading of oil temps. Which one is right? Who knows. I think for our purposes both are accurate enough. - Mark ----- mark@pdc-racing.net Check out my JustRacing Home Page at: http://www.justracing.com/homepage/mdadgar ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#6. Tire fun... - from Mark D
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Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 23:56:31 -0400 From: Mark D <mdlkml@atari-source.com> Subject: Tire fun... Hey guys, One problem after another. Climate control blew up (for the umpteenth time), fixed that, then I finally shut my clutch pedal squeak up with some liquidy lube from walmart and now this: I was driving to work yesterday and of course some **#hole decided to merge into me forcing me into the shoulder a bit. Before I could make it back out of the shoulder I hear "thump-thump". I ran over something... The car was still tracking straight so I proceeded to work. Get out of work at 3am to find rear passenger tire flat. I always do a once around and right now glad I do, probably could have broken the rim driving on it. Great. So I put the spare tire on and that was getting seriously low by the time I got home from my 25 mile commute. Long story short the bolt that penetrated the tire was SO large that the tire was unpatchable, so I am the new owner of 2 new Yoko AVS100 (I think that's the model, nice looking tire), for the rears. Suddenly now the car behaves very strangely. If I brake lightly the car will pull strongly in one direction. If I let up and brake again it will pull strongly in the other direction. If I brake hard, the car tracks straight. The car seems to change from tracking straight and behaving perfectly to almost oscillating left and right. The car has new control arms, I'm thinking possibly a bubble/air loss on the front passenger tire which also hit the bolt, perhaps my tie rods simultaneously went bad, or perhaps NTB screwed up the installation - but I saw them hand torquing it - which shows at least some concern for correctness. Since the spare was going flat when I got home I put the car up on the bmw jack for the night. It was not straight but up slightly higher on the jacked side. Maybe I destroyed a suspension component? The car has recent control arm bushings that have been fine. Suspects include tie rods, front tires, brakes maybe, ball joints... Also there's front end vibration at 90mph now which is definitely new. I'm thinking it's likely I'll be putting my pirelli's back on the front and seeing how things are from there. So to recap, Do these symptoms stand out to anyone? and, check the pressure on your spare tire if you still carry one! Thanks, Mark
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#7. RE: [e36m3] [E36M3] Tire fun... - from Marco
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Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 21:16:07 -0700 From: "Marco" <m3driver@iname.com> Subject: RE: [e36m3] [E36M3] Tire fun... you're email isn't clear - you say you have two new tires. are you running different tires up front than the new rear tires? Marco -----Original Message----- From: Mark D [mailto:mdlkml@atari-source.com] Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2006 9:05 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [e36m3] [E36M3] Tire fun... Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 23:56:31 -0400 From: Mark D <mdlkml@atari-source.com> Subject: Tire fun... Hey guys, One problem after another. Climate control blew up (for the umpteenth time), fixed that, then I finally shut my clutch pedal squeak up with some liquidy lube from walmart and now this: I was driving to work yesterday and of course some **#hole decided to merge into me forcing me into the shoulder a bit. Before I could make it back out of the shoulder I hear "thump-thump". I ran over something... The car was still tracking straight so I proceeded to work. Get out of work at 3am to find rear passenger tire flat. I always do a once around and right now glad I do, probably could have broken the rim driving on it. Great. So I put the spare tire on and that was getting seriously low by the time I got home from my 25 mile commute. Long story short the bolt that penetrated the tire was SO large that the tire was unpatchable, so I am the new owner of 2 new Yoko AVS100 (I think that's the model, nice looking tire), for the rears. Suddenly now the car behaves very strangely. If I brake lightly the car will pull strongly in one direction. If I let up and brake again it will pull strongly in the other direction. If I brake hard, the car tracks straight. The car seems to change from tracking straight and behaving perfectly to almost oscillating left and right. The car has new control arms, I'm thinking possibly a bubble/air loss on the front passenger tire which also hit the bolt, perhaps my tie rods simultaneously went bad, or perhaps NTB screwed up the installation - but I saw them hand torquing it - which shows at least some concern for correctness. Since the spare was going flat when I got home I put the car up on the bmw jack for the night. It was not straight but up slightly higher on the jacked side. Maybe I destroyed a suspension component? The car has recent control arm bushings that have been fine. Suspects include tie rods, front tires, brakes maybe, ball joints... Also there's front end vibration at 90mph now which is definitely new. I'm thinking it's likely I'll be putting my pirelli's back on the front and seeing how things are from there. So to recap, Do these symptoms stand out to anyone? and, check the pressure on your spare tire if you still carry one! Thanks, Mark ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#8. RE: [E36M3] Tire fun... - from Alexander Fadeev
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Date: Wed, 31 May 2006 00:40:01 -0400 From: "Alexander Fadeev" <afadeev@smu.edu> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Tire fun... Mark D [mailto:mdlkml@atari-source.com] wrote: > > [...] I ran over something... [...] rear passenger tire flat. > [...] so I am the new owner of 2 new Yoko AVS100 (I think that's > the model, nice looking tire), for the rears. Mark, Don't let the looks deceive you. AVS100's tread does resemble Michelin Pilots. Unfortunately, the looks is all they have in common with decent tires. I don't know how to put this other than to say that AVS100's were the _only_ tires I had ever dismounted off my M3 and thrown away before they wore off. They were _that_ bad. Slippery when new, unstable under braking, getting progressively (hideously) noisy as they wore off ... and these are just the memories I did not suppress... > Suddenly now the car behaves very strangely. If I brake > lightly the car will pull strongly in one direction. If I > let up and brake again it will pull strongly in the other > direction. If I brake hard, the car tracks straight. The > car seems to change from tracking straight and behaving > perfectly to almost oscillating left and right. Did you put those two new tires on one side of the car? Just the rears? > Since the spare was going flat when I got home > I put the car up on the bmw jack for the night. It was not > straight but up slightly higher on the jacked side. Maybe I > destroyed a suspension component? No, the suspension is not THAT fragile. Do yourself a favor: buy $15 Wal-Mart 12V tire-inflator and throw it in the trunk. I have a medium bulky model that fits perfectly into the plastic battery tray and always stays there. > Suspects include tie rods, front tires, brakes maybe, ball joints... If the car moves under braking, I would take a close look at all rubber bushings, particularly the RTABs. > Also there's front end vibration at 90mph now which is definitely new. > I'm thinking it's likely I'll be putting my pirelli's back on > the front and seeing how things are from there. I take it that the AVS100's are up-front now? If so, the instability under braking may well be attributable to those POS tires alone. HTH, alex f
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#9. RE: [e36m3] [E36M3] Tire fun... - from Mark D
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Date: Wed, 31 May 2006 00:51:00 -0400 From: Mark D <mdlkml@atari-source.com> Subject: RE: [e36m3] [E36M3] Tire fun... Correct... Money and all.... The fronts just last a lot longer so I decided to diverge. I would match make/model if they were available but they never are. Thanks, Mark On Tue, 2006-05-30 at 23:25 -0500, Marco wrote: > Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 21:16:07 -0700 > From: "Marco" <m3driver@iname.com> > Subject: RE: [e36m3] [E36M3] Tire fun... > > > you're email isn't clear - you say you have two new tires. are you running > different tires up front than the new rear tires? > > Marco > -----Original Message----- > From: Mark D [mailto:mdlkml@atari-source.com] > Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2006 9:05 PM > To: E36M3 > Subject: [e36m3] [E36M3] Tire fun... > > > Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 23:56:31 -0400 > From: Mark D <mdlkml@atari-source.com> > Subject: Tire fun... > > Hey guys, > > One problem after another. Climate control blew up (for the umpteenth > time), fixed that, then I finally shut my clutch pedal squeak up with > some liquidy lube from walmart and now this: > > I was driving to work yesterday and of course some **#hole decided to > merge into me forcing me into the shoulder a bit. Before I could make > it back out of the shoulder I hear "thump-thump". I ran over > something... The car was still tracking straight so I proceeded to > work. > > Get out of work at 3am to find rear passenger tire flat. I always do a > once around and right now glad I do, probably could have broken the rim > driving on it. Great. So I put the spare tire on and that was getting > seriously low by the time I got home from my 25 mile commute. > > Long story short the bolt that penetrated the tire was SO large that the > tire was unpatchable, so I am the new owner of 2 new Yoko AVS100 (I > think that's the model, nice looking tire), for the rears. > > Suddenly now the car behaves very strangely. If I brake lightly the car > will pull strongly in one direction. If I let up and brake again it > will pull strongly in the other direction. If I brake hard, the car > tracks straight. The car seems to change from tracking straight and > behaving perfectly to almost oscillating left and right. > > The car has new control arms, I'm thinking possibly a bubble/air loss on > the front passenger tire which also hit the bolt, perhaps my tie rods > simultaneously went bad, or perhaps NTB screwed up the installation - > but I saw them hand torquing it - which shows at least some concern for > correctness. Since the spare was going flat when I got home I put the > car up on the bmw jack for the night. It was not straight but up > slightly higher on the jacked side. Maybe I destroyed a suspension > component? The car has recent control arm bushings that have been fine. > Suspects include tie rods, front tires, brakes maybe, ball joints... > Also there's front end vibration at 90mph now which is definitely new. > I'm thinking it's likely I'll be putting my pirelli's back on the front > and seeing how things are from there. > > So to recap, > Do these symptoms stand out to anyone? > and, check the pressure on your spare tire if you still carry one! > > Thanks, > Mark > > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > >
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#10. RE: [e36m3] [E36M3] Tire fun... - from Marco
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Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 21:54:40 -0700 From: "Marco" <m3driver@iname.com> Subject: RE: [e36m3] [E36M3] Tire fun... well some people say it doesn't matter running different tires front vs rear but I'm not one of them. Especially on grooved highways you're going to get some weird braking issues. If you can get all 4 tires of same make and type on the car then test it out. If you still have the weird braking then start looking at the suspension. Marco -----Original Message----- From: Mark D [mailto:mdlkml@atari-source.com] Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2006 9:51 PM To: Marco Cc: E36M3 Subject: RE: [e36m3] [E36M3] Tire fun... Correct... Money and all.... The fronts just last a lot longer so I decided to diverge. I would match make/model if they were available but they never are. Thanks, Mark On Tue, 2006-05-30 at 23:25 -0500, Marco wrote: > Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 21:16:07 -0700 > From: "Marco" <m3driver@iname.com> > Subject: RE: [e36m3] [E36M3] Tire fun... > > > you're email isn't clear - you say you have two new tires. are you running > different tires up front than the new rear tires? > > Marco > -----Original Message----- > From: Mark D [mailto:mdlkml@atari-source.com] > Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2006 9:05 PM > To: E36M3 > Subject: [e36m3] [E36M3] Tire fun... > > > Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 23:56:31 -0400 > From: Mark D <mdlkml@atari-source.com> > Subject: Tire fun... > > Hey guys, > > One problem after another. Climate control blew up (for the umpteenth > time), fixed that, then I finally shut my clutch pedal squeak up with > some liquidy lube from walmart and now this: > > I was driving to work yesterday and of course some **#hole decided to > merge into me forcing me into the shoulder a bit. Before I could make > it back out of the shoulder I hear "thump-thump". I ran over > something... The car was still tracking straight so I proceeded to > work. > > Get out of work at 3am to find rear passenger tire flat. I always do a > once around and right now glad I do, probably could have broken the rim > driving on it. Great. So I put the spare tire on and that was getting > seriously low by the time I got home from my 25 mile commute. > > Long story short the bolt that penetrated the tire was SO large that the > tire was unpatchable, so I am the new owner of 2 new Yoko AVS100 (I > think that's the model, nice looking tire), for the rears. > > Suddenly now the car behaves very strangely. If I brake lightly the car > will pull strongly in one direction. If I let up and brake again it > will pull strongly in the other direction. If I brake hard, the car > tracks straight. The car seems to change from tracking straight and > behaving perfectly to almost oscillating left and right. > > The car has new control arms, I'm thinking possibly a bubble/air loss on > the front passenger tire which also hit the bolt, perhaps my tie rods > simultaneously went bad, or perhaps NTB screwed up the installation - > but I saw them hand torquing it - which shows at least some concern for > correctness. Since the spare was going flat when I got home I put the > car up on the bmw jack for the night. It was not straight but up > slightly higher on the jacked side. Maybe I destroyed a suspension > component? The car has recent control arm bushings that have been fine. > Suspects include tie rods, front tires, brakes maybe, ball joints... > Also there's front end vibration at 90mph now which is definitely new. > I'm thinking it's likely I'll be putting my pirelli's back on the front > and seeing how things are from there. > > So to recap, > Do these symptoms stand out to anyone? > and, check the pressure on your spare tire if you still carry one! > > Thanks, > Mark > > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > >