-------------------- 1 --------------------
#1. RE: [E36M3] Oil - from Paul L Fisher
Top
Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2006 13:13:37 -0500 From: "Paul L Fisher" <bmw@paul-fisher.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Oil Amsoil was the 1st to offer synthetics for automobiles. Amsoil uses true synthetic (Base stock Group IV) in most of their oils. Castrol, at least in their US based oils use a Group III bas stock which is crude oil that has been hydrocracked. Castrol had to sue (and won) the FTC to allow them to use the word synthetic. Paul L Fisher 2000 540i 6 E39 M62 TU Titanium Silver Metallic 2000 M Roadster E36/7 S52 Cosmos Black Metallic 1989 325ix E30 M20 Cinnabar Red Elkhorn, WI. -----Original Message----- From: Rich Dorffer [mailto:E36M3Digest@gmail.com] Sent: Tuesday, June 06, 2006 1:05 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] Oil Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2006 14:03:20 -0400 From: "Rich Dorffer" <E36M3Digest@gmail.com> Subject: Oil What makes Amsoil so good? I would recommend many good synthetics such as Castrol 0W30 (made in Germany and commonly referred to as GC amongst oil wonks), Mobil 1 0W40, Red Line, Royal Purple and the new Pennzoil Platinum as well as many others (particularly if you branch out outside of the US). Find an oil and a weight that works for your motor and give it a try. You are splitting hairs with many of the quality synthetics and most all oils (conventional and synthetic) are appropriate for many different circumstances, usage and drain intervals. Regards, Rich -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.8.2/357 - Release Date: 6/6/2006
-------------------- 2 --------------------
#2. Re: [E36M3] Oil Religion - from Don Eilenberger
Top
Date: Tue, 06 Jun 2006 14:32:45 -0400 From: Don Eilenberger <deilenberger@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Oil Religion At 02:14 PM 6/6/2006, Andrew wrote: >My data points: > >2 engines ran Pennzoil 20W-50. Both were destroyed within 10,000 miles. Andrew, This begs the question - what went wrong with the engines? Melt down into a lump of inert steel and alloy? Crankshaft break? Connecting rods come through the side of the block? Piston rings crack (I've had this happen.. but that was 40 years ago with Esso oil..)? Valves drop into the engine? Inquiring minds want to know.. you can't just drop this on us with no explanations as to why the Pennzoil did in the engines.. Don Eilenberger, AKA SquidBOOF, Spring Lk Hts, NJ deilenberger@verizon.net NJ Shore BMW Riders web page: http://www.njsbmwr.org/ Moderator - BMW E39 Enthusiasts: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bmwe39 "One should do the stuff that makes you smile" - Ulf Bertilsson Hence BMWs: 2002 M3 convertible, 2003 5-touring, 1987 K75S Join the BMW-Car Club of America: https://www.bmwcca.org/members/am/template.cfm?section=On_Line_Join&template=/bmwcca/custompages/join/joinsection.cfm&ref_id=104316
-------------------- 3 --------------------
#3. RE: [E36M3] spy shots - new M3 - from M540
Top
Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2006 14:45:41 -0400 From: "M540" <m540@bellsouth.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] spy shots - new M3 It's tough to tell what's going on with those side skirts, but if you look at the odd seams on the air dam and rear diffuser I think this car is hiding production body work under some black cover-up sheets. My guess is that the sides have the same thing going on, just less successfully. Kevin Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2006 13:50:08 -0400 From: "Nate Thuerk" <nthuerk@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] spy shots - new M3 remember this is a development vehicle... it is a "loose" representation of what the production version will look like... I work around development vehicles regularly and they are for drivetrain/chassis testing not visual testing as you can tell from the uber wavy side skirt.
-------------------- 4 --------------------
#4. Re: [E36M3] Oil - from Rich Dorffer
Top
Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2006 16:33:10 -0400 From: "Rich Dorffer" <E36M3Digest@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Oil On 6/6/06, Paul L Fisher <bmw@paul-fisher.com> wrote: > > Amsoil was the 1st to offer synthetics for automobiles. Whoopee, Ford was the first to do assembly line production automobiles, I still won't be buying any Fords and would like to get rid of my POS Ranger... ;-) Amsoil uses true synthetic (Base stock Group IV) in most of their oils. The XL line is Group III base stock. So much for Al saying he would never use mineral base stocks ever... So, we can stop calling them "first in synthetic" and start calling them "third or fourth in highly blended Group III oil". :-) I believe Red Line, Royal Purple and Neo are the only two that have fully synthetic (Group IV or V) motor oil lines if that is all that is important to someone. Castrol, at least in their US based oils use a Group III bas stock which is > crude oil that has been hydrocracked. Castrol had to sue (and won) the FTC > to allow them to use the word synthetic. Well, the Castrol Syntec 0W30 is a Group IV PAO with a very special blend of additives and esters that has proven to be one of the most robust oils made so you can't exactly make that statement. Have you chemically tested the remainder of the Castrol Syntec oils to determine their base stocks? Also, do you know for certain that a Group III base stock oil with it's additive package is inferior to other non-Group III synthetics? Amsoil has jumped on the band wagon of blending Group III oils as soon as Castrol and Mobil were doing it Regards, Rich - not trying to sell or push any particular oil as I have zero affiliation with any oil or oil formulators. 95 M3 - use various synthetic oils
-------------------- 5 --------------------
#5. RE: [E36M3] Oil - from Paul L Fisher
Top
Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2006 16:17:44 -0500 From: "Paul L Fisher" <bmw@paul-fisher.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Oil I did say 'most' You are correct, XL is a Group III and they do sell one synthetic diesel blend I believe. Paul L Fisher 2000 540i 6 E39 M62 TU Titanium Silver Metallic 2000 M Roadster E36/7 S52 Cosmos Black Metallic 1989 325ix E30 M20 Cinnabar Red Elkhorn, WI. -----Original Message----- From: Rich Dorffer [mailto:E36M3Digest@gmail.com] Sent: Tuesday, June 06, 2006 3:35 PM To: E36M3 Subject: Re: [E36M3] Oil Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2006 16:33:10 -0400 From: "Rich Dorffer" <E36M3Digest@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Oil On 6/6/06, Paul L Fisher <bmw@paul-fisher.com> wrote: > > Amsoil was the 1st to offer synthetics for automobiles. Whoopee, Ford was the first to do assembly line production automobiles, I still won't be buying any Fords and would like to get rid of my POS Ranger... ;-) Amsoil uses true synthetic (Base stock Group IV) in most of their oils. The XL line is Group III base stock. So much for Al saying he would never use mineral base stocks ever... So, we can stop calling them "first in synthetic" and start calling them "third or fourth in highly blended Group III oil". :-) I believe Red Line, Royal Purple and Neo are the only two that have fully synthetic (Group IV or V) motor oil lines if that is all that is important to someone. Castrol, at least in their US based oils use a Group III bas stock which is > crude oil that has been hydrocracked. Castrol had to sue (and won) the FTC > to allow them to use the word synthetic. Well, the Castrol Syntec 0W30 is a Group IV PAO with a very special blend of additives and esters that has proven to be one of the most robust oils made so you can't exactly make that statement. Have you chemically tested the remainder of the Castrol Syntec oils to determine their base stocks? Also, do you know for certain that a Group III base stock oil with it's additive package is inferior to other non-Group III synthetics? Amsoil has jumped on the band wagon of blending Group III oils as soon as Castrol and Mobil were doing it Regards, Rich - not trying to sell or push any particular oil as I have zero affiliation with any oil or oil formulators. 95 M3 - use various synthetic oils ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm ************************************************* -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.8.2/357 - Release Date: 6/6/2006 -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.8.2/357 - Release Date: 6/6/2006
-------------------- 6 --------------------
#6. Using MP3 player with CD43 head unit - from Steve Sharp
Top
Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2006 16:13:54 -0700 From: "Steve Sharp" <steve.sharp@xilinx.com> Subject: Using MP3 player with CD43 head unit Does anyone know if there is an AUX input on the CD43 head unit? If not, is the best way to interface an iPod to a CD43 unit to use the CD changer wiring and one of the adapters that lets you control the iPod from the head unit buttons? Thanks, Steve
-------------------- 7 --------------------
#7. RE: [E36M3] Tach Problem / Good Independent in Raleigh-Durham Area - from Tim
Top
Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2006 19:20:37 -0400 From: "Tim" <willtj@bellsouth.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Tach Problem / Good Independent in Raleigh-Durham Area A good independent in Raleigh is Shade Tree Garage, http://www.stgbmwservice.com/ But, he is located in North Raleigh and Apex is southwest of Raleigh, about 25 miles. There may be someone closer. Tim -----Original Message----- From: Jeff Bjerke [mailto:jbjerke@charter.net] Sent: Friday, June 02, 2006 12:55 AM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] Tach Problem / Good Independent in Raleigh-Durham Area Date: Thu, 1 Jun 2006 23:46:58 -0500 From: "Jeff Bjerke" <jbjerke@charter.net> Subject: Tach Problem / Good Independent in Raleigh-Durham Area My neighbor's 1995 M3 has a problem I've never heard of before. When you start the car, the tach stays at approximately 3,000 RPM. The car idles and runs fine and when you wind it out closer to redline the tach will slowly fall to zero. When the car is shut off, it also falls back to zero like it should. Anyone experienced this before? Just got done replacing his radiator. Can't imagine that had anything to do with it, but he did not notice it prior to the install. Also, he's moving to the Raleigh-Durham area at the end of the month and would like to get a recommendation on a good independent BMW mechanic. The actual town he's moving to is Apex, NC (is that cool or what?) Thanks- Jeff Bjerke 98 Red/Blk Coupe ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
-------------------- 8 --------------------
#8. Re: [E36M3] Using MP3 player with CD43 head unit - from Zack Steinkamp
Top
Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2006 16:23:51 -0700 (PDT) From: Zack Steinkamp <thenobot@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Using MP3 player with CD43 head unit Steve, I used a Dension Ice>Link Plus to do this. Works exactly as you described. It precludes the use of the CD changer, but you have an iPod and a CD Player, so who needs a changer? It plugs into the dock connector on the iPod, and charges it too. http://www.dension.com/ There is an optional mode that I prefer that just lets you use the iPod UI to pick songs. The headunit interface is cumbersome if you have a large library. I routed the cable from the CD changer connector along the side of the trunk, through a grommet in the rear seat back, under the rear seat, under the carpet in the back, and up into the center console. The iPod fits in a cupholder in the E36, and inside the center armrest in my E46 now. It's a pretty clean install -- you can't see any wires or devices from outside the car. Here's a photo from my E46: http://www.thenobot.org/pictures/20050720-carmods/?icelink_ipod.jpg Dension isn't the greatest company as far as bug-free 1.0 products or customer service (they're not terrible either), but I'm not aware of another product that works with the factory equipment like this. Alpine makes an iPod adapter, but you have to have one of their headunits, which spoils the factory aesthetic inside the car. -zs --- Steve Sharp <steve.sharp@xilinx.com> wrote: > Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2006 16:13:54 -0700 > From: "Steve Sharp" <steve.sharp@xilinx.com> > Subject: Using MP3 player with CD43 head unit > > Does anyone know if there is an AUX input on the CD43 head unit? > > If not, is the best way to interface an iPod to a CD43 unit to use > the > CD changer wiring and one of the adapters that lets you control the > iPod > from the head unit buttons? > > Thanks, > Steve > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > >
-------------------- 9 --------------------
#9. Re: Rear Lower Control Arm Bushings - Replacement Tool? - from Peter Loron
Top
Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2006 22:29:17 -0700 From: "Peter Loron" <peterloron@gmail.com> Subject: Re: Rear Lower Control Arm Bushings - Replacement Tool? Awesome! Thanks for the info...gotta love the hive mind of the list! I'll go stock up on threaded rod and some cheap sockets. So the next question: From the RealOEM diagram I can see that there's an eccentric bolt through there. I'm assuming that's used to adjust something (camber?). Any tips on how to mark/retain the original setting so I can try to get things back together close enough to drive to an alignment shop? Thanks. Pete 98 M3/4 On 6/6/06, Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> wrote: > > on 6/6/06 2:34 AM, "Peter Loron" <peterloron@gmail.com> wrote: > > > Can anybody point me to a DIY for the RLCABs? Any specific tool I need? > > Pelican indicates that this (33-32-1-136-311-M69) is the correct > part..can > > anybody confirm? > > No, it's the wrong part! > > This is a longstanding error on the PP web site which I've brought to > their > attention, but they still haven't corrected. It would be correct for a 95 > M3, which uses this plain rubber bushing, but not for the 96+ where a ball > joint is used. > > This ball joint is the same as used on the upper CA. The right PP part > number is 33-32-1-140-345-M69 and can also be seen on their page here: > < > http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/catalog/shopcart/BE36/POR_BE36_SUSshk_pg7.h > tm> > > You can confirm these P/N's at <http://www.realoem.com/bmw/select.do> > > on 6/6/06 2:34 AM, Steve Klein <s.klein@steveklein.cc> wrote: > > > I would love to hear about any tools for this. I rigged one up once, > > but it barely made the task due to the fact that the bushing angles > > into the wheel hub. > > > > Now, I'm waiting for new eccentric bolts and outer bushings as I've > > managed to snap the nut end off of one. Much to my dismay, the bolt > > itself is seized to the inner metal sleeve of the bushing and won't > > budge. I can move the front half of the control arm out of the way, > > but the back half is firmly fixed in place and I'm fretting exactly > > how I'm going to remove the bolt and bushing to replace them. > > I encountered this same problem when installing the excellent RE > adjustable > LCA's, and posted about it at the time: > > on 4/3/06 2:09 PM, Neil Maller at neil.maller@gte.net wrote: > > > In my case the outer eccentric pivot bolt was also frozen into its stock > > bushing (actually a ball joint). Nothing, and I mean nothing, would get > it > > out. In the end I cut off the stock arm and used a large Pitman arm > puller to > > burst the ball joint, then cut and air-chiseled out the mangled remains > and > > pressed in a new one using the 12mm screw from my VPD RTAB puller and > some > > large sockets as pusher and receiver. A PITA, but not all that hard once > I > > figured out how to do it. > > For reference the ball joint OD is a measured 45.4mm so your pusher socket > OD needs to be just a bit less than that, and the receiver socket ID a bit > more. To press the new one in you'll need a 12mm or 7/16" max threaded > rod. > Be careful not to tear the outer rubber boots of the new ball joint. > > Neil > 96 M3 > > >
-------------------- 10 --------------------
#10. Re: [E36M3] Re: RLCA Bushings - Replacement Tool? - from Peter Loron
Top
Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2006 22:43:50 -0700 From: "Peter Loron" <peterloron@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: RLCA Bushings - Replacement Tool? On 6/6/06, Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> wrote: > > Date: Tue, 06 Jun 2006 11:09:01 -0400 > From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: RLCA Bushings - Replacement Tool? > > on 6/6/06 11:00 AM, Goss, Patrick - PA at Patrick.Goss@GMACM.COM wrote: > > > Bimmerworld has an inexpensive crafted tool to remove the [rear control > arm] > > outerball joints, works well. > > Yeah, more than reasonable at $20. Unfortunately my need for rear ball > joint > removal was entirely unplanned, or I might have bought one. Luckily I had > the means on hand to improvise. > > Neil > 96 M3 > > Ah! I'll give them a call...unfortunately I was hoping to get everything done this weekend. Might have to order it an wait another week. Pete 98 M3/4