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#1. Re: [E36M3] pulleys and tensioners? - from Mark D
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Date: Wed, 07 Jun 2006 14:03:31 -0400 From: Mark D <mdlkml@atari-source.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] pulleys and tensioners? On Wed, 2006-06-07 at 12:54 -0500, Jim Bassett wrote: > Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2006 10:54:00 -0700 (PDT) > From: "Jim Bassett" <jim@jimbassett.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] pulleys and tensioners? > > On Wed, June 7, 2006 8:44 am, Theodore Serbinski said: > > I've decided I want to go with some underdrive pulleys. Is there a > > set everyone recommends, seems either the UUC or Rouge ones? > > Or, go with a list sponsor *Rogue* (sorry :-)). > > > Also, while I'm in there, I figure I should change the tensioners > > before they seize up, this sound good? Or will they last a bit > > longer? > > I'd change 'em while you're in there. If you have my luck, they'll start > squealling about a week after you put the pulleys in, requiring you to go > BACK in and do almost that same work over again :-) > > > Anyone have those part numbers, > > At home. I'm sure you could look 'em up on RealOEM.com, though. > > > there are 2 of them correct? > > Correct. > > > Anything else to change while in there? I've already done the thermo, > > water pump, and an aluminum radiator. Thanks! > > Belts (main & A/C)? > > Cheers, > Jim Bassett > 1998 M3/4 > 1993 325is #44 JP Speaking of pulleys and all of that. I recently had new belts installed in my M3 (S52) and after a few months I started experiencing a whistle/light squeal that is both constant and loudest at idle. I was thinking it could be my original alternator or water pump giving up the ghost but I honestly can't tell where the squeal is coming from. Any pointers on effectively locating it? I was thinking about using a can of spray lube and just hitting each one until it shut up but not sure if the lube is compatible or could cause problems in the future. The alternator is the only one that is really accessible anyway for that idea. The squeal, btw, doesn't sound like typical belt squeal at all. It's more akin to a whistle, and not a standard alternator whistle that you hear in GM cars. Thanks, Mark
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#2. Re: [E36M3] pulleys and tensioners? - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2006 11:19:19 -0700 (PDT) From: "Jim Bassett" <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] pulleys and tensioners? On Wed, June 7, 2006 11:05 am, Mark D said: > Speaking of pulleys and all of that. I recently had new belts installed > in my M3 (S52) and after a few months I started experiencing a > whistle/light squeal that is both constant and loudest at idle. Tensioners (as mentioned earlier)? I had a very similar sound that was diagnosed as the tensioners. Replaced 'em and all is quiet. As always, YMMV. Jim Bassett
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#3. Re: [E36M3] pulleys and tensioners? - from Raza Uddin
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Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2006 11:21:57 -0700 From: "Raza Uddin" <raza.uddin@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] pulleys and tensioners? On 6/7/06, Mark D <mdlkml@atari-source.com> wrote: > > Speaking of pulleys and all of that. I recently had new belts installed > in my M3 (S52) and after a few months I started experiencing a whistle/light > squeal that is both constant and loudest at idle. > Over the winter, my car started squealing also. I changed the belts and all the pullies (tensioner pullies and offset, alternator pulley) and the noises went away. The main culprit of all the noise was the offset alternator pulley- it squealed like a pig once I got the belts off an started rotating them by hand. My question is if there is a better pulley brand than others? I got Meyle pullies and I can swear that they are starting to squeal again, albeit lightly, on cold-start up. I'd hate to go back in there again... Drive Safely, Raza
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#4. Re: [E36M3] pulleys and tensioners? - from Carlos.F.Lopez@jci.com
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Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2006 14:30:31 -0400 From: Carlos.F.Lopez@jci.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] pulleys and tensioners? >Belts (main & A/C)? >Cheers, >Jim Bassett The pulley kit should come with a belt. I have the Evosport kit (Brad Otoupalik) and haven't had any problems, looks really nice too. Their kit uses a Goodyear belt that I can pick up pretty much anywhere so that's a plus for me. -Carlos. 98 M3
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#5. Re: [E36M3] pulleys and tensioners? - from Mark D
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Date: Wed, 07 Jun 2006 14:33:06 -0400 From: Mark D <mdlkml@atari-source.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] pulleys and tensioners? On Wed, 2006-06-07 at 13:24 -0500, Raza Uddin wrote: > Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2006 11:21:57 -0700 > From: "Raza Uddin" <raza.uddin@gmail.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] pulleys and tensioners? > > On 6/7/06, Mark D <mdlkml@atari-source.com> wrote: > > > > Speaking of pulleys and all of that. I recently had new belts installed > > in my M3 (S52) and after a few months I started experiencing a whistle/light > > squeal that is both constant and loudest at idle. > > > > Over the winter, my car started squealing also. I changed the belts and all > the pullies (tensioner pullies and offset, alternator pulley) and the noises > went away. The main culprit of all the noise was the offset alternator > pulley- it squealed like a pig once I got the belts off an started rotating > them by hand. > > My question is if there is a better pulley brand than others? I got Meyle > pullies and I can swear that they are starting to squeal again, albeit > lightly, on cold-start up. I'd hate to go back in there again... > > Drive Safely, > Raza Thanks for the info on this guys... I'm thinking alternator pulley but I'll probably go ahead and replace both tensioners, idler pulley and alternator pulley as a matter of principle. I think while I'm in there I'll do my water pump with 175,000 miles on it ;) Should have done that when I did my thermostat but too lazy. Thanks, Mark
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#6. Caliper rebuild - from Steve Klein
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Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2006 13:55:08 -0500 From: Steve Klein <s.klein@steveklein.cc> Subject: Caliper rebuild After months of having to put off the work, I finally rebuilt my calipers this weekend and not having one drag is a joy unto itself! However, there was a torn boot on the left front and a bit of corrosion on the piston itself. Having no spare and needing to get the car back together, I did a very un-BMW repar: JB Weld. I'd like to hear opinions on how long my patch may hold until I can get a new caliper. The scenario: A few bubbled, corroded areas were lightly sanded (400grit) to knock the scale off and I used an X-acto blade and a loupe to remove the rest and make sure I had a solid, clean surface on the piston. Fretting that it was enough of a gap to leak, at 2am I struck upon the idea to fill it back in with good ol' JB. I mixed a bit and doped it in with a toothpick, finally using a playing card to drag along the surface and smooth it down near level. After sitting overnight, I re-sanded it until I had knocked it back to level with the rest of the piston and buffed it until it was as smooth as possible. My main concern is how it will hold up to the brake fluid (ATE Super Blue) for a period of time. I guess I can pull the caliper in the near future, disassemble and see if there's any leaking into the dust boot, but it's responded well so far (more bleeding necessary. Anyone know how to cycle the ABS pump electronically ?). Pics: http://www.steveklein.cc/caliper/index.htm Thanks for your input, Steve
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#7. Re: [E36M3] pulleys and tensioners? - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2006 12:18:52 -0700 (PDT) From: "Jim Bassett" <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] pulleys and tensioners? On Wed, June 7, 2006 11:34 am, Carlos.F.Lopez@jci.com said: > Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2006 14:30:31 -0400 > From: Carlos.F.Lopez@jci.com > Subject: Re: [E36M3] pulleys and tensioners? > >>Belts (main & A/C)? > >>Cheers, >>Jim Bassett > > The pulley kit should come with a belt. Ah, right. Of course. Non-stock size pulleys require a non-stock size belt. Duh. :-) Jim Bassett
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Caliper rebuild - from Chester Wong
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Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2006 12:21:04 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Caliper rebuild What about those stainless steel piston replacements? I have yet to install mine....just sittin there... Chester --- Steve Klein <s.klein@steveklein.cc> wrote: > I'd like to hear opinions on how long my patch may hold until I can > get a new caliper.
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Caliper rebuild - from Carlos.F.Lopez@jci.com
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Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2006 15:09:18 -0400 From: Carlos.F.Lopez@jci.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Caliper rebuild Steve a caliper rebuild kit will contain a new boot and seal. Your repair will probably hold up for the week or less that it'll take to get the kit. I think your piston is fine if you cleaned off the rust but if you'd prefer you could replace it with a stainless steel piston. Bimmerworld sells these $80 or 90 for the front set? You don't need to replace the calipers. -Carlos.
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Caliper rebuild - from Evan Bradford
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Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2006 12:31:44 -0700 (PDT) From: Evan Bradford <evbrad2002@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Caliper rebuild I recently rebuilt my calipers all the way around and had similar corrosion on one of my front pistons. It was not as deep as your appears in the pics but covered a broader area. I hit it lightly with some fine sand paper and denatured alcohol but did not fill/smooth it with anything. No leaks or sticking after several weeks and 1k+ miles. Additionally, be proud of your ingenuity. JB weld isn't such an un-BMW repair after all. BMW apparently published a TI using JB weld to fill the pits on the head when addressing the notorious profile gasket failure on the early M42 318s. My bet is that you'll get many miles of service out of your patched piston. Steve Klein <s.klein@steveklein.cc> wrote: Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2006 13:55:08 -0500 From: Steve Klein Subject: Caliper rebuild After months of having to put off the work, I finally rebuilt my calipers this weekend and not having one drag is a joy unto itself! However, there was a torn boot on the left front and a bit of corrosion on the piston itself. Having no spare and needing to get the car back together, I did a very un-BMW repar: JB Weld. I'd like to hear opinions on how long my patch may hold until I can get a new caliper. The scenario: A few bubbled, corroded areas were lightly sanded (400grit) to knock the scale off and I used an X-acto blade and a loupe to remove the rest and make sure I had a solid, clean surface on the piston. Fretting that it was enough of a gap to leak, at 2am I struck upon the idea to fill it back in with good ol' JB. I mixed a bit and doped it in with a toothpick, finally using a playing card to drag along the surface and smooth it down near level. After sitting overnight, I re-sanded it until I had knocked it back to level with the rest of the piston and buffed it until it was as smooth as possible. My main concern is how it will hold up to the brake fluid (ATE Super Blue) for a period of time. I guess I can pull the caliper in the near future, disassemble and see if there's any leaking into the dust boot, but it's responded well so far (more bleeding necessary. Anyone know how to cycle the ABS pump electronically ?). Pics: http://www.steveklein.cc/caliper/index.htm Thanks for your input, Steve ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm ************************************************* __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com