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#1. Re: Stainless Steel Caliper Piston Problem. (long) - from Neil Maller
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Date: Wed, 07 Jun 2006 22:37:20 -0400 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Stainless Steel Caliper Piston Problem. (long) on 6/7/06 7:24 PM, "William Townsend" <wtownsend@juniper.net> wrote: > Anyone have any success/failure stories with aftermarket SS pistons for track > use? This stuff should work fine on the street since the conditions are much > less extreme. I've has SS pistons (Korman, NLA) in the fronts for several years now, and added them at the rear (Bimmerworld) early this year when they became available. Never had that problem with them, street or track. I have however had a caliper seize before installing the SS pistons when I had dust boots tear and got crud in there. This was on the street in winter, never at the track. My observation with caliper pistons is that some scuff marking seems to be normal, and won't necessarily affect function. My favourite method of cleaning up the pistons is those green Scotch-Brite pads. Not the nice "gentle to your pots and pans" kitchen version, but the hardware store type that can literally put a bloom on chrome plating. The Scotch-Brite will nicely burnish the metal without leaving residue, unlike sandpaper. I usually do a diagonal, first one way then the other, resulting in a very light cross-hatch pattern. I've cleaned up the SS piston during caliper rebuilds the same way. Is this the best way? Don't know, but it's worked for me. on 6/7/06 7:24 PM, "James Clay" <james@bimmerworld.com> wrote: > We have sanded pistons to get by in the past and it works. But there is a > right way and a way that works. Oh sure James, tease us by not telling how! Neil 96 M3
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Re: RLCA Bushings - Replacement Tool? - from Chris Teague
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Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2006 21:40:20 -0700 From: "Chris Teague" <cteague@cox.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: RLCA Bushings - Replacement Tool? Just a quick comment on the Bimmerworld RLCA outer bushing tool. I got one of those first. It's well worth the price. It's just cup the fits over the bearing, with a welded on 1/4" plate. So in theory, just hammer it out. I used a 3 lb sledge. I pounded on the bearing for a while, and it wouldn't budge. So I ended up ordering the Technics tool (basically the bimmerworld tool with more parts, a larger cup for the other end,. and a threaded rod/nut/washer assembly). Nothing magic in the Technics tool, but with the threaded rod, it popped right out. You could feel it loosen up with the first turn after it made contact. Mine may have been rusted on. I'm still glad I have the Bimmerworld tool for the future, but I needed something with more leverage in my case. Chris 97 M3/4 ----- Original Message ----- >> > Bimmerworld has an inexpensive crafted tool to remove the [rear control >> > arm] >> > outerball joints, works well. >> >> Yeah, more than reasonable at $20. Unfortunately my need for rear ball >> joint >> removal was entirely unplanned, or I might have bought one. Luckily I had >> the means on hand to improvise. >> >> Neil >> 96 M3 >> >> > Ah! I'll give them a call...unfortunately I was hoping to get everything > done this weekend. Might have to order it an wait another week. > > Pete > 98 M3/4
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#3. Re: [E36M3] pulleys and tensioners? - from Rex Tener
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Date: Wed, 07 Jun 2006 21:49:19 -0700 From: Rex Tener <rex_tener@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] pulleys and tensioners? At 03:44 PM 6/7/2006, Raza Uddin wrote: >Chester, >Do you mind posting your precedure? I looked at a writeup on bimmerforums >which wasn't that clear and when I looked at it, I didn't see the same >provisions to take it off like the AC side. I recall something about needle >bearing. I am not Chester, but I used this procedure last summer to repack the needle bearings and replace all the plastic idler/tensioner rollers. <http://www.bmw-m.net/htdocs/dcforum/DCForumID1/305.html> My tensioners (little shock absorbers) were smooth throughout their travel with plenty of return force, so I did not replace them. Rex
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#4. [E36M3] Anyone know of an easy way to replace the Auxiliary Fan Assembly? - from Arvid Jedlicka
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Date: Thu, 8 Jun 2006 09:21:31 -0500 From: "Arvid Jedlicka" <arvidj@visi.com> Subject: [E36M3] Anyone know of an easy way to replace the Auxiliary Fan Assembly? It's a '97 M3. The Bently book suggests removing the front bumper and grill. Maybe that is the way to do it must be done, but putting "easy" in that sentence would make it an oxymoron. Thanks, Arvid
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#5. RE: Coilovers (again) - from Burgess, Kim L
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Date: Thu, 8 Jun 2006 07:36:59 -0700 From: "Burgess, Kim L" <kim.l.burgess@boeing.com> Subject: RE: Coilovers (again) E36s do not experience 'bump steer', they don't because when the suspension is compressed toe does not change. Additionally, when an E36 is lowered, as long as the rake is constant, toe does not change. KLBurgess -------------------- 5 -------------------- Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2006 09:10:10 -0500 From: "Gary" <probikeguy@probikeusa.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Coilovers (again) When you lower it you will change the toe settings front and rear, not just camber... Meaning every time you move it you will need to get an alignment or buy some tools to do it yourself. Not to hard to set it. Gary
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Anyone know of an easy way to replace the Auxiliary Fan - from Walter J
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Date: Thu, 08 Jun 2006 10:40:17 -0400 From: Walter J <m3gtr@adelphia.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Anyone know of an easy way to replace the Auxiliary Fan Assembly? Arvid Jedlicka wrote: > > Subject: [E36M3] Anyone know of an easy way to replace the Auxiliary > Fan Assembly? > I've done it with an extention thru the grill and a ratchet up from underneath but it wasn't easy... the bolts that go up top on the driver's side required me to stick a magnet to the extention to hold them in the socket and much finageling to get started. -- Walter
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#7. Re: [E36M3] RE: Coilovers (again) - from Chester Wong
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Date: Thu, 8 Jun 2006 07:52:09 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: Coilovers (again) That's odd since at one of the times I was having an alignment done, the tech hung off the front sway bar and you could see the toe change. No bump steer? Chester --- "Burgess, Kim L" <kim.l.burgess@boeing.com> wrote: > E36s do not experience 'bump steer', they don't because when the > suspension is compressed toe does not change. Additionally, when an E36 > is lowered, as long as the rake is constant, toe does not change.
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Anyone know of an easy way to replace the Auxiliary Fan - from Gary
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Date: Thu, 8 Jun 2006 10:14:13 -0500 From: "Gary" <probikeguy@probikeusa.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Anyone know of an easy way to replace the Auxiliary Fan Pull the bumper off. makes it WAY easier to get the huge fan assy out... Gary
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#9. My first wheel to wheel - from Ahmad Lutfeali
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Date: Thu, 8 Jun 2006 13:31:51 -0400 From: "Ahmad Lutfeali" <m3_racer99@hotmail.com> Subject: My first wheel to wheel This is a video from qualifying on Sunday. Notice how hard the IP car (currently that driver is leading IP position) pulls on me on the straights. Ahmad http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-3835307308317191834
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Re: RLCA Bushings - Replacement Tool? - from Peter Loron
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Date: Thu, 8 Jun 2006 11:21:27 -0700 From: "Peter Loron" <peterloron@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: RLCA Bushings - Replacement Tool? On 6/7/06, Chris Teague <cteague@cox.net> wrote: > > Just a quick comment on the Bimmerworld RLCA outer bushing tool. I got > one > of those first. It's well worth the price. It's just cup the fits over > the > bearing, with a welded on 1/4" plate. So in theory, just hammer it > out. I > used a 3 lb sledge. I pounded on the bearing for a while, and it wouldn't > budge. So I ended up ordering the Technics tool (basically the > bimmerworld > tool with more parts, a larger cup for the other end,. and a threaded > rod/nut/washer assembly). Nothing magic in the Technics tool, but with > the > threaded rod, it popped right out. You could feel it loosen up with the > first turn after it made contact. > > Mine may have been rusted on. I'm still glad I have the Bimmerworld tool > for the future, but I needed something with more leverage in my case. > > Chris > 97 M3/4 > Interesting. I'm not so sure I want to be hammering on the ball joint with the trailing arm still in the car. Could the Bimmerworld tool be adapted to work like the Technics tool? -Drill a hole in the plate/cup -Get a slighly larger cup with corresponding hole for the other side. -Get some nuts, washers, and threaded rod. -Tighten nuts on threaded rod to force cups together and remove/insert the ball joint? Also: I've heard of some folks lubricating the outside of the RTAB before pushing it in. Would the same thing apply to the RCAB? If so, what kind of lube...I'm assuming a grease would work best. Thanks! Pete 98 M3/4