-------------------- 1 --------------------
#1. 150K service - from Robert Exconde - 99e36m3
Top
Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2006 06:30:50 -0500 From: "Robert Exconde - 99e36m3" <99e36m3@Exconde.com> Subject: 150K service Hi, I'm going to have a shop fix the common shifting detent issue on my M sometime hopefully this week or next. I wanted to find out at 150K, is there anything else that I should think about changing while they are down there? My clutch still feels strong but I'm still encountering odd engagement points; meaning I have to push the clutch ALL the way in before it disengages ... I mean ALL they way with out the clutch stop or anythign in order for it to disengage, so I don't know if this is a clutch issue that should be addressed at the same time as the detent issue. I'm going to have them change the suspension, belt, coolant and weld the oil pump nut as well. Robert 99E36M3@150K
-------------------- 2 --------------------
#2. Re: RSM's - Which ones??? - from Neil Maller
Top
Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2006 09:03:19 -0400 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: RSM's - Which ones??? on 6/20/06 7:17 AM, Dave Thomas <dave@sasdatalink.com> wrote: > On Monday 19 June 2006 9:07 am, Dave Thomas wrote: > FWIW: I got a set of the GC RSM's about 4 months ago and they also included > a full circle reinforcing plate. > http://www.ground-control-store.com/images/fullsize/bmwmounthalf_fs.jpg That's interesting. My (older) GC RSM's are a different design, with a red anodized oval body and a horseshoe-shaped reinforcing plate. Neil 96 M3
-------------------- 3 --------------------
#3. AC-Associated Power Loss - from Shane Kleinpeter
Top
Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2006 06:06:25 -0700 (PDT) From: Shane Kleinpeter <sak335@yahoo.com> Subject: AC-Associated Power Loss It's summer again, and my AC issues from last year have reared their ugly head once again. I had this problem last year and thought I had it kicked, but apparently I was wrong. Bear with me. When running AC (and only when running AC), , mostly around town, the car will sometimes suffer what appears to be a "power loss" on the circuit that contains the AC, the radio, and a couple other dash functions. Basically, the car will nearly die, the radio will turn off, the lights on the HVAC, Computer, etc. will die, and then everything will come back on. Also, the headlights will dim if they are on. This power blip will last about a second. From what I can tell, this happens when the AC compressor kicks in. I focused pretty hard on it last night and this almost always happens when sitting at a light, but every so often it will happen when driving. The revs drop and then the power goes, then comes back up as the computer pushes the revs up. The engine never dies. My initial thought was that maybe there is supposed to be a switch that increases revs when the AC is on, like other cars I have owned in the past, and that maybe that switch is not working. The car idles at about 600 rpm with the AC on and drops to 500 when the compressor comes on. Anybody else experience this or am I the only lucky one? I'll admit that electrics are not my strong suit and I'm at a loss for how to diagnose this. But I'm also a stubborn SOB and hate to have to bring the car in to an actual mechanic. Any ideas? Shane Kleinpeter http://www.justracing.com/homepage/sak335 '96 M3 '94 325i #76 ITS / #335 JP __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com
-------------------- 4 --------------------
#4. Re: [E36M3] AC-Associated Power Loss - from Mel Silva
Top
Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2006 08:36:39 -0500 (GMT-05:00) From: Mel Silva <melsilva@mindspring.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] AC-Associated Power Loss Shane, I experienced similar symptoms when I first got my M3 (over 5 years ago now) and lived with them for the first year not knowing how to fix the problem. I'll spare you the long and ardious dignostic procedure I went through and make a long story short(er)... I replaced the battery in the car (the one that was in it was both old and undersized). The thought process here being that when the car needs more power (like when first engaging the compressor), it requires more spark and the battery acts as a big capacitor, compensating for the increase in demand. Worked for me, YMMV Mel -----Original Message----- >From: Shane Kleinpeter <sak335@yahoo.com> >Sent: Jun 20, 2006 8:07 AM >To: E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> >Subject: [E36M3] AC-Associated Power Loss > >Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2006 06:06:25 -0700 (PDT) >From: Shane Kleinpeter <sak335@yahoo.com> >Subject: AC-Associated Power Loss > >It's summer again, and my AC issues from last year >have reared their ugly head once again. I had this >problem last year and thought I had it kicked, but >apparently I was wrong. Bear with me. > >When running AC (and only when running AC), , mostly >around town, the car will sometimes suffer what >appears to be a "power loss" on the circuit that >contains the AC, the radio, and a couple other dash >functions. Basically, the car will nearly die, the >radio will turn off, the lights on the HVAC, Computer, >etc. will die, and then everything will come back on. >Also, the headlights will dim if they are on. This >power blip will last about a second. > >From what I can tell, this happens when the AC >compressor kicks in. I focused pretty hard on it last >night and this almost always happens when sitting at a >light, but every so often it will happen when driving. > The revs drop and then the power goes, then comes >back up as the computer pushes the revs up. The >engine never dies. My initial thought was that maybe >there is supposed to be a switch that increases revs >when the AC is on, like other cars I have owned in the >past, and that maybe that switch is not working. The >car idles at about 600 rpm with the AC on and drops to >500 when the compressor comes on. > >Anybody else experience this or am I the only lucky >one? I'll admit that electrics are not my strong suit >and I'm at a loss for how to diagnose this. But I'm >also a stubborn SOB and hate to have to bring the car >in to an actual mechanic. Any ideas? > > >Shane Kleinpeter >http://www.justracing.com/homepage/sak335 >'96 M3 >'94 325i #76 ITS / #335 JP > >__________________________________________________ >Do You Yahoo!? >Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around >http://mail.yahoo.com > > >************************************************* >Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > >Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com >Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com >Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com >Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com >Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com >Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > >DIGEST INFORMATION: >http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm >************************************************* > >
-------------------- 5 --------------------
#5. RE: [E36M3] Re: RSM's - Which ones??? - from Dave DeBuhr
Top
Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2006 07:24:32 -0700 From: "Dave DeBuhr" <debuhr@comcast.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Re: RSM's - Which ones??? I heardthat GC will replace the horsshoe with the full circle plate if you call them... -----Original Message----- From: Neil Maller [mailto:neil.maller@gte.net] Sent: Tuesday, June 20, 2006 6:07 AM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] Re: RSM's - Which ones??? Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2006 09:03:19 -0400 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: RSM's - Which ones??? on 6/20/06 7:17 AM, Dave Thomas <dave@sasdatalink.com> wrote: > On Monday 19 June 2006 9:07 am, Dave Thomas wrote: > FWIW: I got a set of the GC RSM's about 4 months ago and they also included > a full circle reinforcing plate. > http://www.ground-control-store.com/images/fullsize/bmwmounthalf_fs.jpg That's interesting. My (older) GC RSM's are a different design, with a red anodized oval body and a horseshoe-shaped reinforcing plate. Neil 96 M3 ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
-------------------- 6 --------------------
#6. RE: [E36M3] Hankook Z211 (245/40/17) - from Rich Dorffer
Top
Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2006 10:37:16 -0400 From: "Rich Dorffer" <E36M3Digest@gmail.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Hankook Z211 (245/40/17) > > From: Gerry Low [mailto:gerry@parallel-mkt.com] > Sent: Monday, June 19, 2006 11:33 AM > > Ahmad, > The Z214 is a better Z211 according to my guy at Hankook. Maybe the > dealers > in your area can get it. Gerry, Have you looked at the sizes available for the Z214? http://www.hankooktireusa.com/pdf/uploads/Z214.pdf Pretty weak selection for most E36 M3s. Regards, Rich
-------------------- 7 --------------------
#7. Re: [E36M3] 150K service - from LoweSeaton@aol.com
Top
Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2006 12:12:14 EDT From: LoweSeaton@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] 150K service Robert, How long have you had your M3? I have driven nearly new M3's that had the exact same clutch engagement you describe. My M3's clutch starts to disengage as soon as you step on the pedal and fully disengages by the time it is half way to the floor. I never could figure out why each M3 acts differently but I am sure glad I have my M3 because I have short legs - I would have long sold any M3 that I had to completely floor to change gears. Good luck finding a fix! Lowell Seaton '95 M3 ----------------------------------- In a message dated 6/20/06 6:37:12 AM Central Daylight Time, 99e36m3@Exconde.com writes: My clutch still feels strong but I'm still encountering odd engagement points; meaning I have to push the clutch ALL the way in before it disengages ... I mean ALL they way with out the clutch stop or anythign in order for it to disengage, so I don't know if this is a clutch issue that should be addressed at the same time as the detent issue.
-------------------- 8 --------------------
#8. Re: [E36M3] 150K service - from Rex Tener
Top
Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2006 09:25:28 -0700 From: Rex Tener <rex_tener@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] 150K service At 04:37 AM 6/20/2006, Robert Exconde - 99e36m3 wrote: >My clutch still feels strong but I'm still encountering odd engagement >points; meaning I have to push the clutch ALL the way in before it >disengages ... I mean ALL they way with out the clutch stop or anythign in >order for it to disengage, so I don't know if this is a clutch issue that >should be addressed at the same time as the detent issue. Maybe the clutch fluid circuit needs to be bled? Rex
-------------------- 9 --------------------
#9. Water pump Question - from Matthew Teel
Top
Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2006 08:26:20 -0800 From: Matthew Teel <mteel@beluga.com> Subject: Water pump Question My water pump went out this past weekend, so I am going to tackle the complete cooling system. I'm wondering if anyone has experience with BMW High Performance Water Pump by Stewart Components. Turner offers it: http://www.turnermotorsport.com/html/detail.asp?PRODUCT_ID=STE30330 And Bimmerworld too: http://www.bimmerworld.com/html/stewart-components-performance-bmw-water-pum p---e36e46.htm My car is street only. I am planning on doing the fan delete and under drive pulleys while I'm at it. Any thoughts? Regards, Matthew 98 M3/4
-------------------- 10 --------------------
#10. Re: [E36M3] 150K service - from Chester Wong
Top
Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2006 09:48:48 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] 150K service In addition to bleeding the clutch, I could imagine a worn clutch disc might cause scenario where since the clutch disc is thinner, the finger springs protrude towards the back of the car more. Thus, you will have to push the fingers through a greater displacement (the slave cylinder just retracts appropriately as the fingers push farther back) to release the clutch disc. Perhaps at this point, the finger displacement/pressure plate displacement is also at the bad spot that requires more movement. Chester --- Rex Tener <rex_tener@yahoo.com> wrote: > At 04:37 AM 6/20/2006, Robert Exconde - 99e36m3 wrote: > >My clutch still feels strong but I'm still encountering odd engagement > >points; meaning I have to push the clutch ALL the way in before it > >disengages ... I mean ALL they way with out the clutch stop or anythign in > >order for it to disengage, so I don't know if this is a clutch issue that > >should be addressed at the same time as the detent issue. > > Maybe the clutch fluid circuit needs to be bled?
-------------------- 11 --------------------
#11. RE: DEAL! Hankook Z211 (245/40/17) - from Burgess, Kim L
Top
Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2006 09:54:49 -0700 From: "Burgess, Kim L" <kim.l.burgess@boeing.com> Subject: RE: DEAL! Hankook Z211 (245/40/17) Perhaps you mis-read the spec - the 235/40 is listed @ 7/32; the 245/40 is listed @ 8/32 thickness, according to the link you provided. 235/40ZR17W Z211 8.0-9.5 8.5 24.3 9.4 8.8 7/32" 855 245/40ZR17W Z211 8.5-10.0 9.0 24.6 10.0 9.1 8/32" 844 -------------------- 8 -------------------- Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2006 16:37:24 -0400 From: "Ahmad Lutfeali" <m3_racer99@hotmail.com> Subject: DEAL! Hankook Z211 (245/40/17) Gerry/Group, I was able to get a SOLID deal on the Hankook 245/40/17s Z211s. List: $191, negotiated down to $150 a pop; $600 for the set. These are the medium compound and even though they are listed as 7/32nd, they are essentially a 6/32 tire. Its the same compound USTCC are currently using. Tell Joe that Ahmad sent ya. Goodluck and enjoy ;) A.L. http://www.hankooktireusa.com/products_view_info.asp?Item_ID=72&CatID=3 The Tire Shoppe.com < www.thetireshoppe.com > - 91 Ben Franklin Hwy, West Birdsboro, PA 19508 Contact: Joe Specht(866) 208-6551 - esales@thetireshoppe.com