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#1. Re: [E36M3] RSM Serious Problem - from Mdriver13@aol.com
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Date: Sun, 25 Jun 2006 22:43:08 EDT From: Mdriver13@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] RSM Serious Problem In a message dated 6/25/2006 10:31:42 PM Eastern Standard Time, mdlkml@atari-source.com writes: What kind of RSM's are you using?? Factory E46. Mark, Though the e46 RSMs are better than the OEM e36 RSMs they will not protect the mount area like the aftermarket RSMs with the reinforcement rings and/or rear strut brace. I've been using aftermarket RSMs and a Dinan rear brace for about eight years now...without a failure event...knock on wood! good luck, Bob Gill 97 ///M3 coupe (sponsored by Wheel Collision Center & JT-Designs) Philly Region SCCA 2005 Philly Region BSP Champion
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#2. Radiator Write Up - from Resener, Kurt
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Date: Sun, 25 Jun 2006 22:05:55 -0500 From: "Resener, Kurt" <KurtResener@IamMorrison.com> Subject: Radiator Write Up Does anyone have the write up for radiator replacement handy that they could send me? I must have tossed my copy when I did mine last year and the radiator on my brother's '97 328is just went this evening. He should have taken me up on my offer to replace it for him this past Christmas when I was out visiting! Now he gets to go it alone. I'd appreciate it! Kurt J. Resener DISCLAIMER Important! This message is intended for the above named person(s) only and is CONFIDENTIAL AND PROPRIETARY. If you are not the intended recipient of this e-mail and have received it in error, please forward to postmaster@yourfoodservice.com with 'Received in Error' as the subject and then delete it from your mailbox. Accessing, copying or re-using any of the information contained in this e-mail by anyone other than the intended recipient is unauthorized. Thank you.
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#3. RE: RE: [E36M3] Conforti Chip Check Engine Light Code? - from Tom Tice
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Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2006 00:05:12 -0400 From: "Tom Tice" <tetice@triad.rr.com> Subject: RE: RE: [E36M3] Conforti Chip Check Engine Light Code? >You mean there are other readers than the Peake one? <boggle> I mean, >you've got the same cars as I do, why not the same reader as well? :-) > Maybe I should - yours works mine doesn't :-) >Yeah, apparently I failed the "reading comprehension" portion of your >post. My bad. > >Jim Bassett No problem! Tom Tice '98 M3/4 '93 325iS JP 110 '02 325iT/5 '02 X5
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#4. Re: [E36M3] RSM Serious Problem - from Carlos.F.Lopez@jci.com
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Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2006 08:48:11 -0400 From: Carlos.F.Lopez@jci.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] RSM Serious Problem >Could a competent local welder install this properly? At any suggested >cost? Mine does not look that bad. Most of hte underlying metal is >still there such that if you hammer it out flat again, the RSM brace >might provide good support. Is there a part number for this? I don't have the part number but yes there is, I believe the metal is a little bit thicker as well. I'm sure a good welder could handle this but get one that is used to this type of repair. I took mine to a highly recommended body shop here in the Detroit area and it cost between $400-500. I stripped the trunk for them though in hopes of reducing the labor charge. I'm sure in other parts of the country it'll be more expensive, I'm guessing $600-800 hopefully not more. -Carlos.
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#5. Re: Factory temp gauge sender replacement? - from Don Eilenberger
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Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2006 10:29:49 -0400 From: Don Eilenberger <deilenberger@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: Factory temp gauge sender replacement? At 10:46 PM 6/25/2006, you wrote: >As I understand it, the issue with the factoty water temp gauge being much >less useful than it could be is that the sender is heavily damped. Has >anybody investigated replacing just the sender with a more responsive unit >that otherwise has the same specs? > >Pete >98 M3/4 Out of Lurkdom.. Pete, I don't think that's a possible solution. AFAIK - the temp gauge is driven by the engine ECU, which is programmed to only show deviation from normal when things are very very abnormal (as someone at BMW's M division said "We show you what we want to show you..") I think the real answer is a secondary sender/gauge - if the wide fluctuations don't upset you.. also possible would be a computer readout device hooked to the diagnostics port - since you can read out the actual coolant temp on that port with a BMW specific code reader. Don Eilenberger, AKA SquidBOOF, Spring Lk Hts, NJ deilenberger@verizon.net NJ Shore BMW Riders web page: http://www.njsbmwr.org/ Moderator - BMW E39 Enthusiasts: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bmwe39 "One should do the stuff that makes you smile" - Ulf Bertilsson Hence BMWs: 2002 M3 convertible, 2003 5-touring, 1987 K75S Join the BMW-Car Club of America: https://www.bmwcca.org/members/am/template.cfm?section=On_Line_Join&template=/bmwcca/custompages/join/joinsection.cfm&ref_id=104316
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#6. RE: RSM Serious Problem - from Burgess, Kim L
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Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2006 08:42:40 -0700 From: "Burgess, Kim L" <kim.l.burgess@boeing.com> Subject: RE: RSM Serious Problem Mark - This is a semi common problem. What shock/spring combo are you running? KLBurgess -------------------- 7 -------------------- Date: Sun, 25 Jun 2006 18:03:04 -0400 From: Mark D <mdlkml@atari-source.com> Subject: RSM Serious Problem Hello guys, After replacing my rear shock mounts after a few months, I started getting a different type of clunk from the rear. I suspected the part I didn't replace, rear trailing arm bushings or rear subframe bushings. But in a matter of a few days it went from light to broken. The passenger rear shock mount broke free of the mount and ripped both bolt holes out and part of the center hole. There's plenty of metal left. If I hammer and twist the metal back into position and then use a reinforcement plate is it likely to hold or am I signing up for disaster. I can have it welded but I'd like to avoid that. I can snap pictures if people really need to see that, but just imagine a pretty bad case scenario. The center ring is broken on one side and pulled all the way to that bolt hole. The other bolt hole the nut just ripped right through. It's a really awful feeling seeing my M in this kind of pain. PS: I did everything to spec, I have no idea why it broke. The drivers side is fine. My guess is cracking due to age and stress over time. Thanks, Mark
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#7. RE: RSM Serious Problem - from Mark D
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Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2006 15:46:53 -0400 From: Mark D <mdlkml@atari-source.com> Subject: RE: RSM Serious Problem Kim, I am running OEM shocks and springs. It's all stock. Replaced because of bad rubber in the original RSMs. Thanks, Mark On Mon, 2006-06-26 at 08:42 -0700, Burgess, Kim L wrote: > Mark - This is a semi common problem. What shock/spring combo are you > running? > > KLBurgess > > -------------------- 7 -------------------- > Date: Sun, 25 Jun 2006 18:03:04 -0400 > From: Mark D <mdlkml@atari-source.com> > Subject: RSM Serious Problem > > Hello guys, After replacing my rear shock mounts after a few months, I > started getting a different type of clunk from the rear. I suspected > the part I didn't replace, rear trailing arm bushings or rear subframe > bushings. But in a matter of a few days it went from light to broken. > The passenger rear shock mount broke free of the mount and ripped both > bolt holes out and part of the center hole. > > There's plenty of metal left. If I hammer and twist the metal back into > position and then use a reinforcement plate is it likely to hold or am I > signing up for disaster. I can have it welded but I'd like to avoid > that. I can snap pictures if people really need to see that, but just > imagine a pretty bad case scenario. The center ring is broken on one > side and pulled all the way to that bolt hole. The other bolt hole the > nut just ripped right through. It's a really awful feeling seeing my M > in this kind of pain. > > PS: I did everything to spec, I have no idea why it broke. The drivers > side is fine. My guess is cracking due to age and stress over time. > Thanks, Mark
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#8. RE: RSM Serious Problem - from Burgess, Kim L
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Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2006 12:54:30 -0700 From: "Burgess, Kim L" <kim.l.burgess@boeing.com> Subject: RE: RSM Serious Problem What some people have found is that a failed shock - no apparent rebound or dampening control - that the shock is able to compress and extend freely for a short range of the full motion, then load up offering dampening for a short portion of the entire shock stroke effectively jack hammering the rear shock mount. Kim L Burgess -----Original Message----- From: Mark D [mailto:mdlkml@atari-source.com] Sent: Monday, June 26, 2006 12:47 PM To: Burgess, Kim L Cc: E36M3 Subject: RE: RSM Serious Problem Kim, I am running OEM shocks and springs. It's all stock. Replaced because of bad rubber in the original RSMs. Thanks, Mark On Mon, 2006-06-26 at 08:42 -0700, Burgess, Kim L wrote: > Mark - This is a semi common problem. What shock/spring combo are you > running? > > KLBurgess > > -------------------- 7 -------------------- > Date: Sun, 25 Jun 2006 18:03:04 -0400 > From: Mark D <mdlkml@atari-source.com> > Subject: RSM Serious Problem > > Hello guys, After replacing my rear shock mounts after a few months, I > started getting a different type of clunk from the rear. I suspected > the part I didn't replace, rear trailing arm bushings or rear subframe > bushings. But in a matter of a few days it went from light to broken. > The passenger rear shock mount broke free of the mount and ripped both > bolt holes out and part of the center hole. > > There's plenty of metal left. If I hammer and twist the metal back > into position and then use a reinforcement plate is it likely to hold > or am I signing up for disaster. I can have it welded but I'd like to > avoid that. I can snap pictures if people really need to see that, > but just imagine a pretty bad case scenario. The center ring is > broken on one side and pulled all the way to that bolt hole. The > other bolt hole the nut just ripped right through. It's a really awful > feeling seeing my M in this kind of pain. > > PS: I did everything to spec, I have no idea why it broke. The > drivers side is fine. My guess is cracking due to age and stress over time. > Thanks, Mark
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#9. RE: [E36M3] RSM Serious Problem - from Scott
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Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2006 16:37:32 -0700 From: "Scott" <stiles_s@hotmail.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] RSM Serious Problem What kind of shocks were you using? After thinking about it a bit, it seems like stiffer shocks could cause/exacerbate the RSM weaknesses. My guess is my Bilsteins are really tough on the RSM. Scott. -----Original Message----- From: Mark D [mailto:mdlkml@atari-source.com] Sent: Sunday, June 25, 2006 3:07 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] RSM Serious Problem Date: Sun, 25 Jun 2006 18:03:04 -0400 From: Mark D <mdlkml@atari-source.com> Subject: RSM Serious Problem Hello guys, After replacing my rear shock mounts after a few months, I started getting a different type of clunk from the rear. I suspected the part I didn't replace, rear trailing arm bushings or rear subframe bushings. But in a matter of a few days it went from light to broken. The passenger rear shock mount broke free of the mount and ripped both bolt holes out and part of the center hole. There's plenty of metal left. If I hammer and twist the metal back into position and then use a reinforcement plate is it likely to hold or am I signing up for disaster. I can have it welded but I'd like to avoid that. I can snap pictures if people really need to see that, but just imagine a pretty bad case scenario. The center ring is broken on one side and pulled all the way to that bolt hole. The other bolt hole the nut just ripped right through. It's a really awful feeling seeing my M in this kind of pain. PS: I did everything to spec, I have no idea why it broke. The drivers side is fine. My guess is cracking due to age and stress over time. Thanks, Mark ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#10. Removing pulley from alternator - from Matthew Teel
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Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2006 18:50:59 -0800 From: "Matthew Teel" <mteel@beluga.com> Subject: Removing pulley from alternator So what's the trick to removing the pulley on a Valeo alternator? I was trying to avoid pulling the alternator completely, but since I can't get an impact wrench on it and I can't keep the alternator from rotating when I torque on the 24mm nut with a breaker bar, I'm at a loss as to how to beat this thing into submission. Any thoughts? Matthew 98 M3/4
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#11. RE: [E36M3] RSM Serious Problem - from Mark D
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Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2006 10:00:51 -0400 From: Mark D <mdlkml@atari-source.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] RSM Serious Problem Scott, OEM shocks. I did a cursory look over the shock and found that it seems to extend and compress ok but I won't know until I pull it from the car. What I believe could have happened is that the mounting bolts backed themselves out due to being reused and perhaps they aren't supposed to be reused. Maybe they weren't torqued down hard enough. This created some movement which gave a nice jackhammer effect which ripped the shock through and already old and weakened mount. I never thought _I_ would be the bad mechanic who screws up my car ;) Thanks, Mark On Mon, 2006-06-26 at 16:37 -0700, Scott wrote: > What kind of shocks were you using? After thinking about it a bit, it seems > like stiffer shocks could cause/exacerbate the RSM weaknesses. My guess is > my Bilsteins are really tough on the RSM. > > Scott. > > -----Original Message----- > From: Mark D [mailto:mdlkml@atari-source.com] > Sent: Sunday, June 25, 2006 3:07 PM > To: E36M3 > Subject: [E36M3] RSM Serious Problem > > Date: Sun, 25 Jun 2006 18:03:04 -0400 > From: Mark D <mdlkml@atari-source.com> > Subject: RSM Serious Problem > > Hello guys, > > After replacing my rear shock mounts after a few months, I started getting a > different type of clunk from the rear. I suspected the part I didn't > replace, rear trailing arm bushings or rear subframe bushings. > But in a matter of a few days it went from light to broken. The passenger > rear shock mount broke free of the mount and ripped both bolt holes out and > part of the center hole. > > There's plenty of metal left. If I hammer and twist the metal back into > position and then use a reinforcement plate is it likely to hold or am I > signing up for disaster. I can have it welded but I'd like to avoid that. > I can snap pictures if people really need to see that, but just imagine a > pretty bad case scenario. The center ring is broken on one side and pulled > all the way to that bolt hole. The other bolt hole the nut just ripped > right through. > > It's a really awful feeling seeing my M in this kind of pain. > > PS: I did everything to spec, I have no idea why it broke. The drivers side > is fine. My guess is cracking due to age and stress over time. > > Thanks, > Mark > > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High > Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing > http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. > http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > >
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#12. help sorting out brake noise - from Evan Bradford
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Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2006 07:37:44 -0700 (PDT) From: Evan Bradford <evbrad2002@yahoo.com> Subject: help sorting out brake noise First, I apologize for the length of this post but hoped the details might prevent bogging the board down with suggestions that I have already tried. Thanks in advance for reading. I am currently running Zimmerman blanks in the rear and Brembo blanks in the front with Performance Friction Carbon Metallic street Pads (not the Z-type). I use the Zeckhausen bedding method. I do not track my car. I drive enthusiastically but not abusively (to the car or other motorists) or even "at the edge." Approximately 6k trouble-free miles after installing the rears, and before installing new fronts, I developed a groaning/rubbing sound when applying the brakes. It was difficult to tell whether it was coming from the front or rear as it seemed to resonate throughout the cabin so I figured it was the fronts on the way out and replaced them. The sound persisted, so I figured it must be the rears. I was concerned that I may have some pad deposits on the rears so had them lightly resurfaced to remove pad deposits and check runout and then re-bedded. The sound persisted. To rule out pad problem, I swapped rear pads under warranty. The sound persisted. I then rebuilt the calipers for good measure (100k on the car) and bled the brakes using ATE super blue fluid. The sound persisted. I am now wondering if, despite attempting to follow the bed-in procedures carefully, I thermally shocked my rear rotors during the bedding-in process, resulting in cementite hot spots, which eventually made themselves known. The brakes do get noisier as they heat up. Also, FWIW, when I received the new rotors, the cardboard from the box had apparently gotten wet and stuck to the rotors in a few spots with some rusting. I cleaned them and removed the residue but wondered if this might have predisposed the rotors to hotspots. I also read a post by a fellow that had worked at autozone stating that his experience was that Performance Friction pads tend to be noisy, often requiring the rotor be burnished/prepared before intalling and bedding to keep them quiet. Can anyone confirm or disconfirm this? Before I spend more money and time trying new rear rotors, I wanted to see if anyone could provide any experience based suggestions. Try new rotors first, then new type of pad or other? I am thinking the sound comes from the rear due to the deductive sequence described above, but still not 100%...very difficult to tell due to the way the sound resonates. Thanks for taking the time to read through this lengthy post! Any help will be appreciated. Evan '98 M3 --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail Beta.
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#13. Automatic transmission conversion to manual - from Rex Tener
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Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2006 07:54:16 -0700 From: Rex Tener <rex_tener@yahoo.com> Subject: Automatic transmission conversion to manual I am looking to purchase an E36 M3 sedan. Many of the candidates have automatic transmissions which is a non-starter in my household. Any experiences out there with converting an automatic M3 to manual via the Zionsville or Bimmerworld kits? Is there any resale market for used E36 M3 transmissions? Thanks, Rex Tener rex_tener@yahoo.com PS: Yes, this will be my third E36 M3. I guess I like to get a "new" one every 5 years. :-)
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#14. enclosed transportation services - from Steve Sharp
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Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2006 14:21:42 -0700 From: "Steve Sharp" <steve.sharp@xilinx.com> Subject: enclosed transportation services Does anyone have recommendations for a transportation service I could use to transport a fully-restored 1960 Mercedes Benz 190SL roadster from New York to California? I would want enclosed transportation and someone with a good track record (and insurance!). M3 content: The 190SL is a family car aquired when I was barely in grade school and would occupy a new garage stall I'm building next to where my M3 parks. Thanks, Steve Sharp Los Gatos, CA
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#15. Brake Cooling Duct install? - from Tom Tice
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Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2006 21:13:41 -0400 From: "Tom Tice" <tetice@triad.rr.com> Subject: Brake Cooling Duct install? I found some posts from quite some time ago with useful tips on installing a brake cooling kit. Included in those posts was a tip from Neil Maller and Steve Grigory indicating an improved installation method for the hoses and flanges on the wheel well liner which leaves the stock brake ducting supported on both ends. Neil's post suggested using this method on a standard E36 325. So I have two questions. 1) Will this work on my car - I'm installing this on my '93 325i but it has an M3 front bumper cover so it should behave more like an M3 and 2) Does anyone have a picture of this installation. I'm not crystal clear of exactly how to cut the stock ducts for the 3 inch hoses? TIA, Tom Tice '98 M3/4 '93 325iS -looking forward to cooler brakes '02 325iT/5 '02 X5 4.4
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#16. Re: RSM Serious Problem - from Neil Maller
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Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2006 22:55:56 -0400 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: RSM Serious Problem on 6/25/06 10:46 PM, Mark D <mdlkml@atari-source.com> wrote: > The passenger rear shock mount broke free of the mount and ripped both bolt > holes out and part of the center hole. > > There's plenty of metal left. If I hammer and twist the metal back into > position and then use a reinforcement plate is it likely to hold or am I > signing up for disaster. Err Mark, listen to yourself here. The rear shock tower sheet metal, which handles the full force of the shock absorber, has fatigued and broken allowing the RSM to pull through and you're asking if you could maybe just bend and hammer it back in place!? > Could a competent local welder install this properly? Yes, any competent automotive body shop could do this. Consider having both done, it won't cost twice as much if repaired at the same time. You need parts #16 and 17 here: <http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=BG93&mospid=47488&btnr=41_094 2&hg=41&fg=25> Then use the Z3 reinforcement plates, or similar as supplied with the better aftermarket RSM's. Neil 96 M3
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#17. Ringing sound from main belt - from Matthew Teel
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Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2006 06:33:29 -0800 From: "Matthew Teel" <mteel@beluga.com> Subject: Ringing sound from main belt I just completed replacing my cooling components last night... rad, pump, t-stat/housing etc. Included with that I installed under drive pulleys. Now I am experiencing an obnoxious, intermittent ringing sound. When I first started the car it was quite loud and I shut the engine off immediately. After inspecting everything and rechecking the torque of all the hardware, I went ahead and fired the engine back up and completed bleeding the system. Went for a test drive, and the ringing was still there. I had the car idling while I re-bled the cooling system, and suddenly the ringing stopped. I decided to take a little test drive and went into town. No ringing after ten or so miles, so I continued on until I eventually returned home. The engine bay was silent, so I left the car idling in the driveway while I swept and mopped the garage floor. The electric fan turned on and everything was still OK, so I was thankful that it had sorted itself out. Then... it just started ringing again for no apparent reason. Everything is tight and properly torqued, the pulleys are all aligned properly and spinning true. Belt tension appears normal and the idlers are quiet and spin smoothly by hand. The ringing has a steady tempo to it, so I placed a chalk mark on the nut where the mechanical fan once resided, then placed a flash light on it to see if I could determine if that was the pulley that was culprit. It certainly wasn't foolproof, but from what I can perceive, the ringing was happening in synch with the revolutions of the water pump pulley. I installed the Stewart Components water pump. Looked like a fantastic piece of hardware when came out of the box... but now I am suspicious that this is the culprit. Had anyone experienced something like this? Is anyone else running the Eurosport under-drive pulleys? Matthew 98 M3/4
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#18. hate Bimmerforums log in - from tim ng
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Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2006 13:28:21 -0400 From: "tim ng" <s14realm3@hotmail.com> Subject: hate Bimmerforums log in now I know why I hate going to BImmerforums, I can never remeber my login and password there. Then I goto reset it and it never works!!!! then it locks me out after 5 tries. Now I ain't that stupid on the puter but that site drives me nuts. thanks for metting me vent my fustration about that stupid site!!!!!! Now that I wasted 5 mins, I only have to wait another 10 before I can try loggin in again!!!!!!!!!!! Tim Ng BMWCCA # 36497 95 BUZZNM3 92 325ic M-Technic 91 M3 street car 88 M3/2.5 DM race car 87 325is D.E. car ------------------ CAR FOR SALE 90 535ia ------------------ Pace shadow 26 ft enclosed trailer my web page: http://groups.msn.com/M3stuff/pictures
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#19. Re: [M3] hate Bimmerforums log in - from Gary
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Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2006 12:50:28 -0500 From: "Gary" <probikeguy@probikeusa.com> Subject: Re: [M3] hate Bimmerforums log in Hmm, I never have any problems..But I normally stay logged on all day ;-) One reason I use the same ID and pass on all the car sites..easy to remember! Gary ----- Original Message ----- From: "tim ng" <s14realm3@hotmail.com> To: <UUCGarage-ATL@yahoogroups.com>; <e36m3@bmw-m.net>; <e30m3-list@bimmers.com> Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2006 12:28 PM Subject: [M3] hate Bimmerforums log in > now I know why I hate going to BImmerforums, I can never remeber my login > and password there. Then I goto reset it and it never works!!!! then it > locks me out after 5 tries. Now I ain't that stupid on the puter but that > site drives me nuts. thanks for metting me vent my fustration about that > stupid site!!!!!! Now that I wasted 5 mins, I only have to wait another 10 > before I can try loggin in again!!!!!!!!!!! > > Tim Ng BMWCCA # 36497 > 95 BUZZNM3 > 92 325ic M-Technic > 91 M3 street car > 88 M3/2.5 DM race car > 87 325is D.E. car > ------------------ > CAR FOR SALE > 90 535ia > ------------------ > Pace shadow 26 ft enclosed trailer > my web page: > http://groups.msn.com/M3stuff/pictures > > > ______________________________________________ > E30 M3 SIG Premier Sponsors: > http://www.turnermotorsport.com > http://www.bimmerworld.com > http://www.diffsonline.com > http://www.bmwcca.org > _______________________________________________ > To manage your account, please see http://www.bimmers.com/m3/help.html > Archives: http://www.bimmers.com/archives/m3 >
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#20. What wire is this and where does it go? - from Brad Moriarty
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Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2006 11:03:24 -0700 (PDT) From: Brad Moriarty <bmoriarty2004@yahoo.com> Subject: What wire is this and where does it go?
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#21. test - from Brian Ruiz
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Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2006 11:38:11 -0700 From: "Brian Ruiz" <eurowerke@gmail.com> Subject: test Been trying to send email to the list, but it always gets rejected. I don't have any special characters in it or anything odd, so this is a TEST.