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#1. Re: [E36M3] Removing pulley from alternator - from Chester Wong
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Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2006 12:23:16 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Removing pulley from alternator Are you doing a underdrive pulley setup? If so, you shouldn't are for the stock pulley and in this case, you can take a slip wrench to the "neck" of the pulley. When tightening the replacement, you can use the old belt (as you'll have a new belt) to protect the grooves and clamp down on the belt to prevent it from turning. Chester --- Matthew Teel <mteel@beluga.com> wrote: > So what's the trick to removing the pulley on a Valeo alternator? > > I was trying to avoid pulling the alternator completely, but since I can't > get an impact wrench on it and I can't keep the alternator from rotating > when I torque on the 24mm nut with a breaker bar, I'm at a loss as to how to > beat this thing into submission. > > Any thoughts?
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Radiator Failure - from Kallay@aol.com
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Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2006 15:24:25 EDT From: Kallay@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Radiator Failure Anyone What is exactly the failure? The overflow neck at the top or the large neck at the top? I see some seepage of coolant at the overflow neck on my M3. But it looks like simply a hose. I just ordered a new hose.... Tom Kallay 98 M3
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#3. help sorting out brake noise - from Evan Bradford
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Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2006 12:44:07 -0700 (PDT) From: Evan Bradford <evbrad2002@yahoo.com> Subject: help sorting out brake noise First, I apologize for the length of this post but hoped the details might prevent bogging the board down with suggestions that I have already tried. Thanks in advance for reading. I am currently running Zimmerman blanks in the rear and Brembo blanks in the front with Performance Friction Carbon Metallic street Pads (not the Z-type). I use the Zeckhausen bedding method. I do not track my car. I drive enthusiastically but not abusively (to the car or other motorists) or even "at the edge." Approximately 6k trouble-free miles after installing the rears, and before installing new fronts, I developed a groaning/rubbing sound when applying the brakes. It was difficult to tell whether it was coming from the front or rear as it seemed to resonate throughout the cabin so I figured it was the fronts on the way out and replaced them. The sound persisted, so I figured it must be the rears. I was concerned that I may have some pad deposits on the rears so had them lightly resurfaced to remove pad deposits and check runout and then re-bedded. The sound persisted. To rule out pad problem, I swapped rear pads under warranty. The sound persisted. I then rebuilt the calipers for good measure (100k on the car) and bled the brakes using ATE super blue fluid. The sound persisted. I am now wondering if, despite attempting to follow the bed-in procedures carefully, I thermally shocked my rear rotors during the bedding-in process, resulting in cementite hot spots, which eventually made themselves known. The brakes do get noisier as they heat up. Also, FWIW, when I received the new rotors, the cardboard from the box had apparently gotten wet and stuck to the rotors in a few spots with some rusting. I cleaned them and removed the residue but wondered if this might have predisposed the rotors to hotspots. I also read a post by a fellow that had worked at autozone stating that his experience was that Performance Friction pads tend to be noisy, often requiring the rotor be burnished/prepared before intalling and bedding to keep them quiet. Can anyone confirm or disconfirm this? Before I spend more money and time trying new rear rotors, I wanted to see if anyone could provide any experience based suggestions. Try new rotors first, then new type of pad or other? I am thinking the sound comes from the rear due to the deductive sequence described above, but still not 100%...very difficult to tell due to the way the sound resonates. Thanks for taking the time to read through this lengthy post! Any help will be appreciated. Evan '98 M3 --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail Beta.
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#4. RE: Pulley removal.... - from Matthew Teel
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Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2006 11:45:19 -0800 From: "Matthew Teel" <mteel@beluga.com> Subject: RE: Pulley removal.... Exactly what I ended up doing. Just had to touch it with the impact wrench and off it came. For some reason, my alternator was really tight fitting on it's mounting points. It took a lot of prying and elbow grease to get it off and then even more to get it back into place, but eventually I got it there. Thanks! _____ From: William Townsend [mailto:wtownsend@juniper.net] Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2006 11:40 AM To: mteel@beluga.com Subject: Pulley removal.... I just unbolted the alternator, rotate it pointing upward, impact gun on nut. Reverse for install. It is very quick to unbolt. Just put a rag behind it to prevent possible contact of the power cable to ground. (it does have a boot but better to be safe.) Putting in underdrive pulleys??? --Bill 96 M3
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#5. RE: [E36M3] Removing pulley from alternator - from Matthew Teel
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Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2006 11:52:19 -0800 From: "Matthew Teel" <mteel@beluga.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Removing pulley from alternator The list was down... So I had to get inventive and ended up trying to use the old belt, but I was afraid to damage the old pulley, even though I had a new one in hand. I ended up removing the alternator and hitting the nut with an impact wrench which knocked it loose effortlessly. Thanks, Matthew 98 M3/4 -----Original Message----- From: Chester Wong [mailto:chester_p_wong@yahoo.com] Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2006 11:23 AM To: Matthew Teel; E36M3 Subject: Re: [E36M3] Removing pulley from alternator Are you doing a underdrive pulley setup? If so, you shouldn't are for the stock pulley and in this case, you can take a slip wrench to the "neck" of the pulley. When tightening the replacement, you can use the old belt (as you'll have a new belt) to protect the grooves and clamp down on the belt to prevent it from turning. Chester --- Matthew Teel <mteel@beluga.com> wrote: > So what's the trick to removing the pulley on a Valeo alternator? > > I was trying to avoid pulling the alternator completely, but since I > can't get an impact wrench on it and I can't keep the alternator from > rotating when I torque on the 24mm nut with a breaker bar, I'm at a > loss as to how to beat this thing into submission. > > Any thoughts?
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#6. Got some UUC stuff! - from Gary
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Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2006 15:42:52 -0500 From: "Gary" <probikeguy@probikeusa.com> Subject: Got some UUC stuff! Man I just got my new UUC engine mounts..Suckers are HD!! I ordered a pair from Ireland and the UUC ones are way way better looking...Anyone need some NEW Ireland engine mounts ;-) AND! I got a set of the upper camber plates..HOLY COW! Theses suckers are nice! I picked them over Ground control because I liked the poly bushing and should be nicer for street use since my car is a dual purpose car. Doing one lap next year and don't want to have a rattle trap..I was really impressed with the quality of the upper mounts! Now I just need to get the car running! Gary
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#7. Re: [M3] hate Bimmerforums log in - from Gary
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Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2006 16:02:47 -0500 From: "Gary" <probikeguy@probikeusa.com> Subject: Re: [M3] hate Bimmerforums log in I don't have the beer problem !I use Vodka! Kills more cells, much faster! Gary ----- Original Message ----- From: "Brooks Herrin" <brooksherrin@gmail.com> Cc: <UUCGarage-ATL@yahoogroups.com>; <e30m3-list@bimmers.com>; <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2006 3:57 PM Subject: Re: [M3] hate Bimmerforums log in > User this instead of braincells its free and it won't die from beer use. > > http://www.passkeeper.com/ > > -Brooks > > > On 6/28/06, tim ng <s14realm3@hotmail.com> wrote: >> >> now I know why I hate going to BImmerforums, I can never remeber my login >> and password there. > ______________________________________________ > E30 M3 SIG Premier Sponsors: > http://www.turnermotorsport.com > http://www.bimmerworld.com > http://www.diffsonline.com > http://www.bmwcca.org > _______________________________________________ > To manage your account, please see http://www.bimmers.com/m3/help.html > Archives: http://www.bimmers.com/archives/m3 >
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#8. RE: [E36M3] RSM Serious Problem - from Mark D
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Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2006 17:06:13 -0400 From: Mark D <mdlkml@atari-source.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] RSM Serious Problem Update, The nuts didn't back out on the shock mount. The metal was still attached to the nut which is attacked to the free flying RSM. The drivers side is messed up too. Cost of $752 for both sides at a local guy who has done a couple of them before, always M3's. It's a weak point and in pennsylania, we simply have awful awful roads. I kind of thought I'd bend a rim first but oh well. Thanks, Mark On Wed, 2006-06-28 at 14:18 -0500, Mark D wrote: > Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2006 10:00:51 -0400 > From: Mark D <mdlkml@atari-source.com> > Subject: RE: [E36M3] RSM Serious Problem > > Scott, > > OEM shocks. I did a cursory look over the shock and found that it seems > to extend and compress ok but I won't know until I pull it from the car. > What I believe could have happened is that the mounting bolts backed > themselves out due to being reused and perhaps they aren't supposed to > be reused. Maybe they weren't torqued down hard enough. This created > some movement which gave a nice jackhammer effect which ripped the shock > through and already old and weakened mount. I never thought _I_ would > be the bad mechanic who screws up my car ;) > > Thanks, > Mark > > > On Mon, 2006-06-26 at 16:37 -0700, Scott wrote: > > What kind of shocks were you using? After thinking about it a bit, it seems > > like stiffer shocks could cause/exacerbate the RSM weaknesses. My guess is > > my Bilsteins are really tough on the RSM. > > > > Scott. > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Mark D [mailto:mdlkml@atari-source.com] > > Sent: Sunday, June 25, 2006 3:07 PM > > To: E36M3 > > Subject: [E36M3] RSM Serious Problem > > > > Date: Sun, 25 Jun 2006 18:03:04 -0400 > > From: Mark D <mdlkml@atari-source.com> > > Subject: RSM Serious Problem > > > > Hello guys, > > > > After replacing my rear shock mounts after a few months, I started getting a > > different type of clunk from the rear. I suspected the part I didn't > > replace, rear trailing arm bushings or rear subframe bushings. > > But in a matter of a few days it went from light to broken. The passenger > > rear shock mount broke free of the mount and ripped both bolt holes out and > > part of the center hole. > > > > There's plenty of metal left. If I hammer and twist the metal back into > > position and then use a reinforcement plate is it likely to hold or am I > > signing up for disaster. I can have it welded but I'd like to avoid that. > > I can snap pictures if people really need to see that, but just imagine a > > pretty bad case scenario. The center ring is broken on one side and pulled > > all the way to that bolt hole. The other bolt hole the nut just ripped > > right through. > > > > It's a really awful feeling seeing my M in this kind of pain. > > > > PS: I did everything to spec, I have no idea why it broke. The drivers side > > is fine. My guess is cracking due to age and stress over time. > > > > Thanks, > > Mark > > > > > > > > > > ************************************************* > > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High > > Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing > > http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. > > http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > > ************************************************* > > > > > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > >
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#9. Re: Ringing sound from main belt - from Neil Maller
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Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2006 17:04:54 -0400 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Ringing sound from main belt on 6/28/06 3:26 PM, "Matthew Teel" <mteel@beluga.com> wrote: > Had anyone experienced something like this? > Is anyone else running the Eurosport under-drive pulleys? I have both the Eurosport pulleys and the Stewart water pump, but no ringy-dingy. Describe the sound in more detail. Is it a ding-ding-ding synchronized to rotation, like a once-around scrape? Or is it a continuous riiiiiing resonance? Neil 96 M3
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#10. RE: hate Bimmerforums log in - from Ahmad Lutfeali
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Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2006 17:06:15 -0400 From: "Ahmad Lutfeali" <m3_racer99@hotmail.com> Subject: RE: hate Bimmerforums log in Hmmm. Perhaps using some easier passwords like: popcorn Or: e36realm3 ;) A.L. -------------------- 18 -------------------- Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2006 13:28:21 -0400 From: "tim ng" <s14realm3@hotmail.com> Subject: hate Bimmerforums log in now I know why I hate going to BImmerforums, I can never remeber my login and password there. Then I goto reset it and it never works!!!! then it locks me out after 5 tries. Now I ain't that stupid on the puter but that site drives me nuts. thanks for metting me vent my fustration about that stupid site!!!!!! Now that I wasted 5 mins, I only have to wait another 10 before I can try loggin in again!!!!!!!!!!! Tim Ng BMWCCA # 36497 95 BUZZNM3 92 325ic M-Technic 91 M3 street car 88 M3/2.5 DM race car 87 325is D.E. car ------------------ CAR FOR SALE 90 535ia ------------------ Pace shadow 26 ft enclosed trailer my web page: http://groups.msn.com/M3stuff/pictures