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#1. Re: paint blending - from chipmitchell@gmail.com
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Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2006 12:15:02 -0400 From: "chipmitchell@gmail.com" <chipmitchell@gmail.com> Subject: Re: paint blending I just painted a fender and door myself (got tired of changing oil and brakes and wanted to try the next level of DIY...). I bought paint based on color code rather than matching, and painted to the panel lines with no blending. The color is extremely close, to the point that nobody else admits they can see the difference. I think the difference is a little haze in the clear that could still use to be polished out, but it is more than good enough for a daily driver. Now, the car had been hit in the rear quarter before and was blended, and here there was really no perceptible change in color at all. So, if you want it perfect it wouldn't hurt to let them blend it; however, if you'd prefer not to fool with nice looking factory paint, a panel to panel paint may be okay. Chip > > -------------------- 4 -------------------- > Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2006 17:45:12 -0600 > From: "Chuck Hanson" <chanson60@comcast.net> > Subject: Paint Blending > > My Arctic Silver '97 M3/4 in was hit the other day by a (what else in New > Mexico?) hit and run driver. Long story short is that it gets a new driver's > door and a front fender. The body shop guy told me that the paint would have > to be "blended" into both the rear door and the hood to even out the color. > I'm more than a little nervous about the sound of that, although given the > choice of a soft transition from one slightly different color shade to > another is probably better than having the two doors look completely > different in the right (wrong) light. > > > > Does anyone have personal experience with this and if so, please share with > me. I trust this shop, but I'm very scared of having a two tone car. > > > > Chuck Hanson > > > > >
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#2. Online purchases - from L R
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Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2006 09:16:00 -0700 (PDT) From: L R <lhrc51@yahoo.com> Subject: Online purchases Grouppe, What's the best way to handle a big ticket item purchase online from a private individual (let's say something worth a couple of grand?). Obviously I'm being careful since I've heard horror stories from other people. Thank you, Luis --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? Get on board. You're invited to try the new Yahoo! Mail Beta.
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#3. 9.46 sec. E30 M3 - from L R
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Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2006 09:17:48 -0700 (PDT) From: L R <lhrc51@yahoo.com> Subject: 9.46 sec. E30 M3 I'm not into drag racing but I still found it interesting: <http://videos.streetfire.net/search/E30+Turbo/0/8B42FE7F-405A-4015-8138-226C4EC4D1A3.htm> --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? Get on board. You're invited to try the new Yahoo! Mail Beta.
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#4. Peake Codes - from Neil Maller
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Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2006 12:27:52 -0400 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Peake Codes Back in 2004 I made up a spreadsheet of the codes returned by the Peake Research code reader. This document lists the code itself, the corresponding explanation from the Peake manual plus has two columns of checkboxes so that you can record possible before/after results. There's also a brief reminder on how to use the code reader. You can download this file as a printable pdf from: http://homepage.mac.com/fergusonadvertising/FileSharing3.html Since I originally made this for my own use it covers only the 96-99 M3 and any other code compatible BMW models as indicated in the Peake manual. Neil 96 M3
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Online purchases - from Ricardo A. Mayer
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Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2006 13:51:46 -0300 From: "Ricardo A. Mayer" <ramayer@terra.com.br> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Online purchases Dear Luis, I am from Brazil, and my concern may be bigger than yours. I found Don McAdams through SIG E30M3, a fantastic supplier for BMW parts, very especialized in E30's, but he was able to perfectly handle all my E36 M3 and E34 M5 needs, even from Germany. The prices are excellent too! I have purchased above $20,000 of parts within 12 months and I have always antecipated the money. It has been working like a swiss watch. Perfect! I highly recommend his services. www.McAdamsAutoSport.com E30M3TheRealM3@aol.com Best regards, Ricardo Mayer ----- Original Message ----- From: "L R" <lhrc51@yahoo.com> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Wednesday, July 19, 2006 1:25 PM Subject: [E36M3] Online purchases > Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2006 09:16:00 -0700 (PDT) > From: L R <lhrc51@yahoo.com> > Subject: Online purchases > > Grouppe, > > What's the best way to handle a big ticket item purchase online from a > private individual (let's say something worth a couple of grand?). > Obviously I'm being careful since I've heard horror stories from other > people. > > Thank you, > > Luis > > > > --------------------------------- > Do you Yahoo!? > Get on board. You're invited to try the new Yahoo! Mail Beta. > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > > > E-mail classificado pelo Identificador de Spam Inteligente Terra. > Para alterar a categoria classificada, visite > http://mail.terra.com.br/protected_email/imail/imail.cgi?+_u=ramayer&_l=1,1153326354.452889.1216.arrino.hst.terra.com.br,2609,Des15,Des15 > > Esta mensagem foi verificada pelo E-mail Protegido Terra. > Scan engine: McAfee VirusScan / Atualizado em 18/07/2006 / Versão: > 4.4.00/4809 > Proteja o seu e-mail Terra: http://mail.terra.com.br/ > >
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#6. Paint and such - from Richard Sperry
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Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2006 12:53:29 -0400 From: "Richard Sperry" <richardsperry@comcast.net> Subject: Paint and such Man there is a lot of incorrect or misunderstood info about paint finishes. Modern topcoat finishes are usually a 2 part process. Base coat color, and a clearcoat cover. Many of the paints uses in the auto industry are now water based instead of the old solvent based systems from the past. The basecoat or paint has no shine at all, it also has protection. That is the function of the clear. The total thickness of the primer, base, and clear from the factory is about 10mils total. with the clear being anywhere from 3 to 6 mils. The factory curing temp is 140F, same as any aftermarket curing process. Most paint has metallic or silica, or pearl solids in it. This is what causes most of the color problems with repainting. From the factory, since the paint is applied at the same time, all the particles uniformly distribute themselves, and the color is even. When you repaint , there will be changes in the composition, concentration and orientation of these solids. The trick is to fool the eye. You can easily spot the difference between a factory color and a even the best repair placed side by side. hence blending, (fading). What you are trying to do is fool the eye by having a gradual transition from an old finish to the new. Well how do they do that? Assume you are repairing a fender, and you have to blend in the hood and the door. First you clean ,degrease, and remove all silicone. Cleanliness is next to godliness. Next you scuff the entire adjoining panels so that the new clearcoat will have a place to stick. (great time to fix all those rock chips) You repair and repaint the new panel, (you can pre-blend the panels with an over reduced (100%) clearcoat) and blend (fade) the new paint onto the old panels. Then you clearcoat all the panels to be repaired. Let cure, wet sand (maybe) and buff. You can wash with mild soap and water , wet sand, compound, and buff newly painted cars right away. You do want to give the solvents time to fully evaporate before sealing with wax or a polymer. (a month is plenty) Anyway, if they don't blend, It will stick out like a sore thumb. see https://www.basfrefinish.com for a lot of neat info. Feel free to contact me off list with any questions unless you think the group would benefit. Rich Certified BASF/Glasurit tech
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#7. RE: [E36M3] Online purchases - from Paul L Fisher
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Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2006 12:40:17 -0500 From: "Paul L Fisher" <bmw@paul-fisher.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Online purchases Do they take PayPal? If so, use it and don't worry. Make sure that you either dispute the charge or get the item before the 30 days limit runs out, however. Paul L Fisher 2000 540i 6 E39 M62 TU Titanium Silver Metallic 2000 M Roadster E36/7 S52 Cosmos Black Metallic 1989 325ix E30 M20 Cinnabar Red Elkhorn, WI. -----Original Message----- From: L R [mailto:lhrc51@yahoo.com] Sent: Wednesday, July 19, 2006 11:26 AM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] Online purchases Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2006 09:16:00 -0700 (PDT) From: L R <lhrc51@yahoo.com> Subject: Online purchases Grouppe, What's the best way to handle a big ticket item purchase online from a private individual (let's say something worth a couple of grand?). Obviously I'm being careful since I've heard horror stories from other people. Thank you, Luis -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.10.1/391 - Release Date: 7/18/2006
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#8. RE: [E36M3] Paint Blending - from NabliLaw
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Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2006 13:48:57 -0400 From: "NabliLaw" <nabli@earthlink.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Paint Blending Chuck: Blending into the rear door (and possibly part of the rear quarter) is the right way to do it. However, I would not necessarily blend the hood because even if the color is off 1/2 a shade, it would not be noticeable due to the different angles of those panels. Another important factor is the quality of the materials. You need to make sure they are using quality paint and primer such as Spies Hecker. Cheers, Jim E. -----Original Message----- From: Chuck Hanson [mailto:chanson60@comcast.net] Sent: Tuesday, July 18, 2006 7:46 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] Paint Blending Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2006 17:45:12 -0600 From: "Chuck Hanson" <chanson60@comcast.net> Subject: Paint Blending My Arctic Silver '97 M3/4 in was hit the other day by a (what else in New Mexico?) hit and run driver. Long story short is that it gets a new driver's door and a front fender. The body shop guy told me that the paint would have to be "blended" into both the rear door and the hood to even out the color. I'm more than a little nervous about the sound of that, although given the choice of a soft transition from one slightly different color shade to another is probably better than having the two doors look completely different in the right (wrong) light. Does anyone have personal experience with this and if so, please share with me. I trust this shop, but I'm very scared of having a two tone car. Chuck Hanson ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Online purchases - from Gary
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Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2006 12:51:04 -0500 From: "Gary" <probikeguy@probikeusa.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Online purchases Do it through Pay Pal... Gary ----- Original Message ----- From: "L R" <lhrc51@yahoo.com> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Wednesday, July 19, 2006 11:25 AM Subject: [E36M3] Online purchases > Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2006 09:16:00 -0700 (PDT) > From: L R <lhrc51@yahoo.com> > Subject: Online purchases > > Grouppe, > > What's the best way to handle a big ticket item purchase online from a > private individual (let's say something worth a couple of grand?). > Obviously I'm being careful since I've heard horror stories from other > people. > > Thank you, > > Luis > > > > --------------------------------- > Do you Yahoo!? > Get on board. You're invited to try the new Yahoo! Mail Beta. > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > >
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#10. Paint, blends, chips, bumpers - from Jay L.
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Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2006 11:07:43 -0700 (PDT) From: "Jay L." <joong@yahoo.com> Subject: Paint, blends, chips, bumpers I'll add my 2 cents here. OE bumpers typically come primed. Some manufacturers like Volvo will sell painted bumpers (and most often the color doesn't match perfectly). Aftermarket bumpers are typically bare plastic. That's why body shops will need more time to prep an aftermarket bumper (as well as make it fit properly and repair imperfections). Paint needs to blended into adjacent panels because it is physically impossible to perfectly match a color painted w/ different manufacturer paints, different locations, blah blah. Sort of like dynoing 2 different M3s at different locations and expecting the exact same results. Blending is an industry standard practice unless your car is old and your insurance won't pay for it. As far as baking goes, many good shops will have infrared heaters that take far less time and heat to cure the paint. Paint chips depend more on the quality and application of paint. If you ever have your hood painted, ask your shop if they could put on an extra layer of clear coat with flex additive (for an extra fee). It's practically like having a built in clear bra.