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#1. Re: [E36M3] HK Speaker Removal - from Mark D
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Date: Fri, 21 Jul 2006 15:49:48 -0400 From: Mark D <mdlkml@atari-source.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] HK Speaker Removal On Thu, 2006-07-20 at 17:15 -0500, Reed Nicholson wrote: > Date: Thu, 20 Jul 2006 15:06:20 -0700 > From: "Reed Nicholson" <reedthis@comcast.net> > Subject: HK Speaker Removal > > What's the procedure for removing the midrange and tweeter speakers from the > door panel? I thought they would just pop out, but apparently not. > You have to pop the whole door panel off. Prepare for damage unless you use the special puller tool. You can get it off without damage. People always say the plastic thingies break but if you have a garage kept baby, they might survive it. Be careful of the top part along the window, it has to go striaght up to come off. If you pull straight out, you'll rip it off and have to epoxy it. Once off, the midrange at least screws out. The tweeter is probably a similar configuration. Thanks, Mark
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#2. Re: [E36M3] HK Speaker Removal - from Jason Knight
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Date: Fri, 21 Jul 2006 13:39:04 -0700 (PDT) From: Jason Knight <knight2244@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] HK Speaker Removal It's worth getting a few of those retainer clips to have on hand for when you put it all back together. My experience is that one or two always break. Or maybe I'm ham fisted. I also used the opportunity of having the door panel off to epoxy the cubby holes and other metal bits back in place, as they had gotten loose. Jason --- Mark D <mdlkml@atari-source.com> wrote: > You have to pop the whole door panel off. Prepare > for damage unless you > use the special puller tool. You can get it off > without damage. People > always say the plastic thingies break but if you > have a garage kept > baby, they might survive it. Be careful of the top > part along the > window, it has to go striaght up to come off. If > you pull straight out, > you'll rip it off and have to epoxy it. Once off, > the midrange at least > screws out. The tweeter is probably a similar > configuration. > > Thanks, > Mark >
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Airbag reset tool - from Rex Tener
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Date: Fri, 21 Jul 2006 13:46:45 -0700 From: Rex Tener <rex_tener@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Airbag reset tool At 12:35 PM 7/21/2006, Kelvin wrote: >>>Does anyone in the SF bay area have the airbag reset tool (I guess >>>I should read the code first, but I figure it's cause I removed >>>the driver's seat with the key in the ignition. Read about NOT to >>>do that after the fact) that I could borrow? Preferably in the east bay. =D Hey Kelvin, I have one in Los Altos (near 208/85) that you can stop by and use if want to come over this far. I will be around most of Saturday. Rex
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#4. One RA-1 Needed... - from Resener, Kurt
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Date: Sat, 22 Jul 2006 10:32:08 -0500 From: "Resener, Kurt" <KurtResener@IamMorrison.com> Subject: One RA-1 Needed... Due to some unusual tire wear at Putnam Park a couple weekends ago, I have one corded RA-1 and three that should have a couple track weekends left on them. Too soon to pitch the other three for a full set, and hate to run one brand new tire with three halfway worn ones. By any chance does anyone have one halfway worn out RA-1 in 235-40-17 size that they'd like to get rid of for a fair price? Kurt J. Resener '95 M3 (limping...) DISCLAIMER Important! This message is intended for the above named person(s) only and is CONFIDENTIAL AND PROPRIETARY. If you are not the intended recipient of this e-mail and have received it in error, please forward to postmaster@yourfoodservice.com with 'Received in Error' as the subject and then delete it from your mailbox. Accessing, copying or re-using any of the information contained in this e-mail by anyone other than the intended recipient is unauthorized. Thank you.
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#5. RE: [E36M3] One RA-1 Needed... - from twisty M3
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Date: Sat, 22 Jul 2006 09:04:19 -0700 From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] One RA-1 Needed... I don't currently have any spares around, but if you don't find any here, you might consider buying some scrubs online. Bimmerworld sometimes has them at $100 per, but they never actually have any instock when I need them, so I've gone with a set from here before: http://www.meisterschaftmotor.com/tires_wheels.html About $125 each and they're right in the prime. I can't say how many normal weekends you could get out of them, as the set I bought only lasted one weekend... BUT that was two days of driving in 105+ degree temps for about five hours of track time on both days at a good 8-9/10ths the entire time, whilst they were melting away in the ambient heat. ;) Jonathan L.
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#6. Re: Headers for a '95 3.0 - from Roger Baker
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Date: Sat, 22 Jul 2006 11:33:39 -0700 From: Roger Baker <RogerBkr@netscape.net> Subject: Re: Headers for a '95 3.0 Ya, it wouldn't surprise me. Only real benefit is the loss of a fair amount of weight. Definitely felt like it lost some power compared to the SuperSprint w/race pipe. Was nice that these bolted up to the factory cat section where the SuperSprint didn't. -- Roger probikeguy@probikeusa.com wrote: > I believe the jet hot headers don't produce any more power than > stock...Go search the Bimmerforums I think someone already dynoed them > stock vs. jet hot > > Gary >
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#7. WTB - Front Strut Bar - from Ivan Petrov
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Date: Mon, 24 Jul 2006 18:39:03 -0700 From: "Ivan Petrov" <crazyinp@hotmail.com> Subject: WTB - Front Strut Bar I am waiting for my new suspension and I am looking to replace my current strut bar with one that has open ends so I can adjust my Konis. If someone has one for sale email me at crazyinp@hotmail.com. The one I know will work are Dinan, Sparco, JT-Designs and the BMW motorsport if I remove my ASC-T Thanks Ivan
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Re: MPG question... - from dhogg
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Date: Sun, 23 Jul 2006 07:42:36 -0400 From: "dhogg" <dhogg@suscom.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: MPG question... FWIW, I'm seeing 1 qt/1,000 miles on my '98 S52 with 103K on the clock. 60K miles ago, I would add one quart between regularly scheduled (idiot light) services. I figured this was a frequent enough oil change interval because it's been running BMW synthetic since the 10K mile mark. Maybe I was wrong? Dave Hogg
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#9. RE: [E36M3] WTB - Front Strut Bar - from Paul Andrews
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Date: Sun, 23 Jul 2006 10:07:13 -0400 From: "Paul Andrews" <emosound@verizon.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] WTB - Front Strut Bar I've read good things about the Mason Engineering STB on BimmerForums. I've never seen one first-hand, has anyone here used one or seen one? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2700110188 59 Paul Andrews 98 Alpine M3/4 -----Original Message----- From: Ivan Petrov [mailto:crazyinp@hotmail.com] Sent: Saturday, July 22, 2006 9:46 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] WTB - Front Strut Bar Date: Mon, 24 Jul 2006 18:39:03 -0700 From: "Ivan Petrov" <crazyinp@hotmail.com> Subject: WTB - Front Strut Bar I am waiting for my new suspension and I am looking to replace my current strut bar with one that has open ends so I can adjust my Konis. If someone has one for sale email me at crazyinp@hotmail.com. The one I know will work are Dinan, Sparco, JT-Designs and the BMW motorsport if I remove my ASC-T Thanks Ivan ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#10. Coolant Level After Replace and Bleed - from Sean Dowd
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Date: Sun, 23 Jul 2006 21:29:47 -0500 From: Sean Dowd <m3@dowds.net> Subject: Coolant Level After Replace and Bleed I drained and refilled my coolant this morning on my '99. When I refilled it, I filled it to the top until fluid emerged from the bleeder hole. Then I ran the engine until warm, checked for leaks, replaced the underpanels, then took it for a 15 minute drive (all this with the climate control set to 90). Everything appears normal. Then I let it cool (all day) and checked the reservoir. The procedure says to top off the reservoir, but mine is still pretty much completely full. Should I take some out down to the Kalt/Cold line? Or is it OK with this much fluid?