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#1. Fuel Pump Failure - from Mo Karamat
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Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2006 12:28:55 -0400 From: Mo Karamat <karamatm@optonline.net> Subject: Fuel Pump Failure shane, Hello.. Do you have the Bimmerworld dual fuel pump pickup? I just installed this on my racecar, and everything went well in the install except for the thick hose that connects the two pumps. On the drivers side everything fit snugly. On the passenger side, the hose fit VERY loosely over the nipple on the pump. When we first started the car, the hose spit fuel over the top of the pump as well. We solved this by tightenig up the clamp a lot.. I found this a little strange.. Did your leak happen on the passenger side? Regards, Mo PS. James, Hello. The instructions were ok, but to make the install simplier, you may want to add some pics in the instructions. -------------------- 10 -------------------- Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2006 09:02:40 -0700 (PDT) From: Shane Kleinpeter <sak335@yahoo.com> Subject: RE: [CR] <E36> Fuel Pump Failure I wanted to follow up on the fuel pump issue that I posted about a couple weeks ago. I finally got the chance to look into it over this weekend and what I found was surprising. I pulled the access plates that cover the pumps and found some gasoline residue in the recesses of the pump itself. I decided to try and start the car again, just to be sure, and the car started right up. I let it run for a while and after a few minutes I noticed more fuel starting to pool around the large hose fitting. I tightened the hose clamp and dried the pooled fuel out of there and it stopped accumulating. To be safe I'm going to replace the worm-gear hose clamp but it looks like this was my problem. Apparently the fuel was filling that recess and when the fuel level got high enough it was shorting out the wires that send power to the pump. I got a good suggestion from James at Bimmerworld to put dielectric grease on the fitting to keep that from happening again. I'm actually surprised that I didn't smell the gas, but I guess the leak wasn't bad enough to get to the cabin, just bad enough to kill the electrics. Thanks for all the suggestions, glad this was an easy one.
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#2. RE:Stock Sway diameters? - from Ahmad Lutfeali
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Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2006 12:34:01 -0400 From: "Ahmad Lutfeali" <m3_racer99@hotmail.com> Subject: RE:Stock Sway diameters? 95 Front: 22.5mm 96+ front: 23mm 95 rears: 19mm 96+ rears: 20mm. Depending on whose bar you choose. I would stick with UUC bars if you are running a stockish/sports suspension. The front bars have 3 holes, the rears having 2 on each side. I ended up with a 25mm bar up front with a 15mm 325i bar in the rear since my car was extremely tail happy with 800+lbs springs at the back. A.L. -------------------- 8 -------------------- Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2006 11:44:48 EDT From: LoweSeaton@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Stock Sway diameters? I may be slightly off but off the top of my head here goes. Front '95 - 19 mm '96-99 - 19.5 mm Rear '95 - 20 mm '96-99 - 21 mm The '96+ M3 had slightly larger sway bars. I installed the '96 rear sway bar on my '95 M3. Our local club autocross charges "upgrade points" for aftermarket, oversized sway bars. I installed the '96 bar for free - it is OE stock right? Lowell Seaton '95 M3
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Engine Mount Replacement - from David Bauer
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Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2006 09:36:20 -0700 (PDT) From: David Bauer <dbauer@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Engine Mount Replacement I was able to replace my mounts by unbolting the exhaust and removing the cross-member I believe the exact procedure has been posted before byt the search isn't working for me at the moment. The main trick was to use two jacks to make manipulating the engine easier. Having two sets of hands helps too. Dave 95 M3 [mark.greer@excite.com] wrote: Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2006 11:39:15 -0400 (EDT) From: "Mark Greer" <mark.greer@excite.com> Subject: Engine Mount Replacement I recently had to replace motor mounts on our 318iC. That went pretty well. However, I have read various reports of motor mount replacement on our M3s. One list member said the steering trumpet gets in the way; another said it can be done without a lift -- or removal of other major components. Can anyone report DIY sucess with left & right mounts and/or DIY instructions if there are known 'tricks' to make it work? Thanks Mark Greer '95 318iC '97 M3/4 _______________________________________________ Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com The most personalized portal on the Web! ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#4. Re: [E36M3] RE:Stock Sway diameters? - from LoweSeaton@aol.com
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Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2006 12:45:32 EDT From: LoweSeaton@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE:Stock Sway diameters? Oh boy! I wasn't even close. :-) At least I knew the '95 had 0.5mm and 1 mm smaller bars front/rear respectively. Do I get partial credit? Lowell
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Engine Mount Replacement - from Doug Wirth
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Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2006 09:50:52 -0700 (PDT) From: Doug Wirth <doug_wirth@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Engine Mount Replacement I did this a few weeks ago on my 99 m3. I purchased a engine brace from Harbor Freight to lift the motor. I didn't have to remove the exhaust or cross member. ( I did lower it significantly.) If you raise the motor about an inch it is much easier to get the old ones out and the new ones in. I went with the mounts from www.vorshlog.com (motorforce). My old mounts were about 1/4 shorter on one side from the other, Changing my motor mounts has been one of the most significant changes to how the car handles at auto-xs. I can shift under hard acceleration in a corner and the car does not get upset when I push in the clutch to change gears. If I would have known what a huge change these, would have made I would have done it years ago. I don't think these are readily available yet (I'm running prototypes), but should be soon. David Bauer <dbauer@yahoo.com> wrote: Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2006 09:36:20 -0700 (PDT) From: David Bauer Subject: Re: [E36M3] Engine Mount Replacement I was able to replace my mounts by unbolting the exhaust and removing the cross-member I believe the exact procedure has been posted before byt the search isn't working for me at the moment. The main trick was to use two jacks to make manipulating the engine easier. Having two sets of hands helps too. Dave 95 M3 [mark.greer@excite.com] wrote: Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2006 11:39:15 -0400 (EDT) From: "Mark Greer" Subject: Engine Mount Replacement I recently had to replace motor mounts on our 318iC. That went pretty well. However, I have read various reports of motor mount replacement on our M3s. One list member said the steering trumpet gets in the way; another said it can be done without a lift -- or removal of other major components. Can anyone report DIY sucess with left & right mounts and/or DIY instructions if there are known 'tricks' to make it work? Thanks Mark Greer '95 318iC '97 M3/4 _______________________________________________ Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com The most personalized portal on the Web! ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm ************************************************* ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm ************************************************* Doug
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#6. Re: Stock Sway diameters? - from Neil Maller
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Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2006 13:07:34 -0400 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Stock Sway diameters? on 7/26/06 12:17 PM, "Jonathan Evans" <jonathanevans@hotmail.com> wrote: > Looks like my stock sway bushings and end links are shot. Great excuse to > upgrade! > > A quick search found some aftermarket 28mm (H&R) and 26mm (Eibach) front > diameter and 24mm rear diameter. Does anyone have handy the stock diameters > front and rear for a comparison? I'm not going to run it through any > torsional stress/strain calculations, just want to know where I'm starting > from. Some data points (in mm): F R F/R % ==== ==== ===== 95 M3 22.5 19 197 96+ M3 23 20 175 RD 27 22 227 Eibach 26 24 138 UUC 25.4 23.8 130 Dinan 22.2 22.2 100 Just for fun I've calculated the relative front/rear torsion stiffness ratio, expressing it as a percent. Torsional stiffness is proportional to the 4th power of bar diameter, so seemingly small diameter increases have quite large effects. (There's also a less significant square law relationship that applies to bending the lever arm of the bar, which I've ignored.) IMO the RD front bar is undesirably big, except maybe for use with stock springs for street driving only, where the resulting understeer tendency may be acceptable. Properly speaking the choice of bar stiffness should also be a function of the suspension spring rates. With soft stock springs you must rely more on stiff bars to control roll, but with stiffer track springs they take over more of that duty. A few months ago I replaced my old, flaking and corroded RD bars with the UUC product, which I think is better balanced. The UUC swaybars also had a much better thought out bend on the muffler side, eliminating some clearance problems with the RD's. (I've heard that newer RD bars may have fixed that problem.) On the other hand I'm not a fan of the UUC rear endlinks, whose rubber bushings don't allow for enough splay without forcing. I'm using new spherical joint endlinks instead. > And when they say 'fully adjustable' I'm thinking you have 3 mounting holes > possible? Like my Miata? Yep. Usually 3 holes at the front, 2 at the rear. > Or is there some sort of screw adjustment? The only bars I know of with continuous adjustment are the quite expensive but very lightweight GC tubular bars. Neil 96 M3
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Re: Yes, it is hot enough for me (AC issues) - from Reid Conti
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Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2006 10:08:46 -0700 From: "Reid Conti" <reid@conti.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Yes, it is hot enough for me (AC issues) In my M Coupe, with the AC on in hot weather (100+), the oil temperature gauge goes up noticeably. Like most people here, I have never seen my water temp gauge anywhere past dead center, but I can't guarantee that would be the same if I drove in stop-and-go at 115 degrees with AC on. - reid > > This discussion reminds me to ask the question I intended to the other > > day... > > > > Not that I expect miracles or anything, but how do all your cars perform in > > stop-n-go traffic in 115 F heat with the A/C on full blast? Do all of your > > temp gauges creep slowly toward the 3/4 mark? Or are they as rock steady as > > they always are? Would this indicate time for a good flushing of the > > cooling system? > > > > T-stat and housing were replaced a year ago, aux fan turns on while the > > compressor is engaged.
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#8. E46 Sunroof Problem - from driver8 ///M3
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Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2006 10:24:57 -0700 (PDT) From: driver8 ///M3 <driver8m3@yahoo.com> Subject: E46 Sunroof Problem A little off topic, but I'm throwing this out to you guys b/c the dealer seems stumped...and perhaps someone here has some ideas. My 2002 E46M3 has a weird sunroof problem. Occasionally, it just opens on its own, sliding back about 1/8 of an inch at a time until fully opened. Sometimes, though not always, when this happens the switch becomes completely disabled, and I'm not able to close the roof. So far, this hasn't happened during a rain storm! This usually happens just as I start the car, and only lasts about 10-15 minutes. After that, everything works fine. So far, the dealer has replaced the switch, and the motor. After both repairs, the problems started again the very next day. Thanks, Russell
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Re: Source for ZKW headlights/Upgrades? - from Kent Shephard
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Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2006 10:49:21 -0700 From: Kent Shephard <Kents@kls-consulting.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Source for ZKW headlights/Upgrades? It is the same with all carriers. The shipping party has the contract. You can and must report damage but on the shipper can file a claim for lost and damaged shipments. Kent Shephard kents@kshephard.com On Jul 26, 2006, at 7:57 AM, Neil Maller wrote: > Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2006 10:53:07 -0400 > From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> > Subject: Re: Source for ZKW headlights/Upgrades? > > on 7/25/06 10:11 PM, Skip Bogard <skipb@bellsouth.net> wrote: > >> I thought the T&C's were customer hostile....these are it: > >> ~~~~~~~~start of T&C excerpt~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ >> When packages appear damaged on arrival, state condition >> of the container over your signature on the receipt at the time >> of receipt. If you discover a damaged part after opening the >> package, missing components, or any other anomaly, notify >> the carrier and Umnitza immediately at the time of receipt. >> We provide properly packaged contents at the time of carrier >> pickup. Direct claims to the carrier. We package ALL products >> at the utmost care. It is the responsibility of the customer to >> request insurance of product at the time of purchase. We >> are not responsible for broken shipments where insurance >> is not selected or requested. Please contact us if you wish to >> add insurance to your order. >> ~~~~~~~~~~end of T&C excerpt~~~~~~~~~~~ > >> They advertise "Devilishly Good Service" ? >> Not in my book..... > > Furthermore, at least in the case of UPS shipments, the recipient > can NOT > direct claims to the carrier as Umnitza tells you to, see: > <http://www.ups.com/content/us/en/resources/service/claims/hlp/ > damage_proces > s.html>. The recipient can report apparent damage to the carrier, > but UPS > has no contractual relationship at all with the recipient. Their > customer is > the shipper, and therefore only the shipper can file a claim with UPS. > > I haven't checked, but I'll bet it's the same with FedEx for the same > reason. > > Neil > 96 M3 > > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > >
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#10. RE: [E36M3] RE:Stock Sway diameters? - from Ahmad Lutfeali
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Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2006 14:02:01 -0400 From: "Ahmad Lutfeali" <m3_racer99@hotmail.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] RE:Stock Sway diameters? You're still our bump stop expert, I took away your lunch as far as sway bar is concerned ;) A.L. _____ From: LoweSeaton@aol.com [mailto:LoweSeaton@aol.com] Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2006 12:46 PM To: m3_racer99@hotmail.com; e36m3@bmw-m.net Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE:Stock Sway diameters? Oh boy! I wasn't even close. :-) At least I knew the '95 had 0.5mm and 1 mm smaller bars front/rear respectively. Do I get partial credit? Lowell