-------------------- 1 --------------------
#1. Re: [E36M3] WTB - Front Strut Bar - from Ivan Petrov
Top
Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2006 11:53:20 -0700 From: "Ivan Petrov" <crazyinp@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] WTB - Front Strut Bar Thanks Paul, I totally forgot about them , I even have their rear one :) Thanks Ivan P.S If anyone has one for sale let me know. (Dinan, JTD, Sparco, Strutstong, etc.) > -----Original Message----- > From: Paul Andrews [mailto:emosound@verizon.net] > Sent: Sunday, July 23, 2006 7:07 AM > To: 'Ivan Petrov'; 'E36M3' > Subject: RE: [E36M3] WTB - Front Strut Bar > > I've read good things about the Mason Engineering STB on BimmerForums. > I've never seen one first-hand, has anyone here used one or seen one? > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2700110188 > 59 > > Paul Andrews > 98 Alpine M3/4 > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Ivan Petrov [mailto:crazyinp@hotmail.com] > Sent: Saturday, July 22, 2006 9:46 PM > To: E36M3 > Subject: [E36M3] WTB - Front Strut Bar > > > Date: Mon, 24 Jul 2006 18:39:03 -0700 > From: "Ivan Petrov" <crazyinp@hotmail.com> > Subject: WTB - Front Strut Bar > > I am waiting for my new suspension and I am looking to replace my > current strut bar with one that has open ends so I can adjust my Konis. > > If someone has one for sale email me at crazyinp@hotmail.com. > > The one I know will work are Dinan, Sparco, JT-Designs and the BMW > motorsport if I remove my ASC-T > > > > Thanks > > Ivan > > > > > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > > > > >
-------------------- 2 --------------------
#2. trunk wiring problems - from Shane Kleinpeter
Top
Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2006 12:57:38 -0700 (PDT) From: Shane Kleinpeter <sak335@yahoo.com> Subject: trunk wiring problems David, This is a very common problem. The wiring loom passes through a rubber hose on the drivers side of the trunk. The wiring is apparently too brittle and all the opening and closing causes it to split. If you pull that rubber hose aside you will find the wires that have split. Solder in some new wire to fix the broken areas and you should be good to go. Use heat shrink tubing to cover the repair because if you use tape it will be difficult to pull the rubber hose back over the wire leaving a "pig in the python" look. Hope this helps. Shane K. >One of the rear license -plate lights on my car does >not work. The bulk isnot the problem. Also, I >occasionally get a "check circuit" message on >theOBC. I also have a brake light switch message on >the OBC. >I was looking at realoem.com for the brake light >switch part number, and I discovered that there is >a "trunk wiring repairharness" for our cars (p/n 61 >128 391 788 $107.69). Since I am trying to sort >these problems out, Ithis would be a good way to do >so. I don not likethe idea of cutting intothe >existing trunk harness to try to fix it, and REALLY >don't like the idea of the wires shorting out. >Your thoughts?? __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com
-------------------- 3 --------------------
#3. Rear Spoiler Install - from Resener, Kurt
Top
Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2006 15:03:23 -0500 From: "Resener, Kurt" <KurtResener@IamMorrison.com> Subject: Rear Spoiler Install Came across a good deal on a used spoiler for my '95 coupe. Thought it'd be a cinch to install, just drill four holes and bolt her on.... Wrong. Anyone have any suggestions on how to mark and drill the holes in the proper spot, and then how to handle the underside of the deck lid where I'm guessing I'll have to drill a larger hole? Thanks! Kurt J. Resener DISCLAIMER Important! This message is intended for the above named person(s) only and is CONFIDENTIAL AND PROPRIETARY. If you are not the intended recipient of this e-mail and have received it in error, please forward to postmaster@yourfoodservice.com with 'Received in Error' as the subject and then delete it from your mailbox. Accessing, copying or re-using any of the information contained in this e-mail by anyone other than the intended recipient is unauthorized. Thank you.
-------------------- 4 --------------------
#4. Re: [E36M3] Rear Spoiler Install - from Carlos.F.Lopez@jci.com
Top
Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2006 16:12:49 -0400 From: Carlos.F.Lopez@jci.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Rear Spoiler Install >Thought it'd be a cinch to install, just drill four holes and bolt her >on.... Wrong. Kurt, IIRC when I purchased a spoiler from PTG a looooong time ago (they were closing out on some stockish rear spoilers), the part came with a template. I think the only advice here is measure a gazzillion times, drill once. :-) I recall the installation holes being very close to the edge of the trunklid, not much room for error. Good luck, Carlos 98 M3 <--came with a spoiler already :)
-------------------- 5 --------------------
#5. Re: [E36M3] Rear Spoiler Install - from Chester Wong
Top
Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2006 13:13:42 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Rear Spoiler Install Measure twice, drill once =P Seriously, you have to be meticulous with measuring. As for the hole for the wire harness to go through, get a sharp drill it...unlike the one I used at the body shop that snagged and deformed the surface a bit =( Chester --- "Resener, Kurt" <KurtResener@IamMorrison.com> wrote: > Came across a good deal on a used spoiler for my '95 coupe. > > > > Thought it'd be a cinch to install, just drill four holes and bolt her > on.... Wrong. > > > > Anyone have any suggestions on how to mark and drill the holes in the > proper spot, and then how to handle the underside of the deck lid where > I'm guessing I'll have to drill a larger hole?
-------------------- 6 --------------------
#6. Re: trunk wiring problems - from Justin Gerry
Top
Date: Tue, 01 Aug 2006 16:20:24 -0400 From: "Justin Gerry" <justin_gerry@warpmail.net> Subject: Re: trunk wiring problems The trunk wiring shorting out is a known issue with all E36 cars. I ended up replacing the section of wiring (at a suggestion from E36 wiring guru John Firestone) with Tefzel (aircraft grade) wiring. I cut, soldered, and spliced in the entire section of wire. Its not a bad job to do and its certainly better than shorting something out. I also had some flaky stuff happening like my trunk lock would not actuate with the central locking... when I replaced the wiring the problem went away. -Justin -- '74 tii '76 02 '97 m3 http://www.bmw2002.net > > I was looking at realoem.com for the brake light switch part number, and > I > discovered that there is a "trunk wiring repair harness" for our cars > (p/n > 61 128 391 788 $107.69). Since I am trying to sort these problems out, I > this would be a good way to do so. I don not like the idea of cutting > into > the existing trunk harness to try to fix it, and REALLY don't like the > idea > of the wires shorting out.
-------------------- 7 --------------------
#7. Re: [E36M3] Rear Spoiler Install - from Mark Dadgar
Top
Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2006 13:35:31 -0700 From: Mark Dadgar <mark@pdc-racing.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Rear Spoiler Install On Aug 1, 2006, at 1:17 PM, Chester Wong wrote: > Measure twice, drill once =P Seriously, you have to be meticulous > with > measuring. As for the hole for the wire harness to go through, get > a sharp > drill it...unlike the one I used at the body shop that snagged and > deformed the > surface a bit =( Get some of the blue 3M painters tape and tape the area you will drill. Then drill through the tape to minimize impact to the surrounding area. Also, drill a pilot hole with a very small bit, then enlarge to the size you need with the appropriate bit afterwards. - Mark ----- mark@pdc-racing.net Check out my JustRacing Home Page at: http://www.justracing.com/homepage/mdadgar
-------------------- 8 --------------------
#8. Re: [E36M3] trunk wiring problems - from Rex Tener
Top
Date: Tue, 01 Aug 2006 13:44:23 -0700 From: Rex Tener <rex_tener@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] trunk wiring problems At 01:47 PM 7/27/2006, David Flanary wrote: >I was looking at realoem.com for the brake light switch part number, and I >discovered that there is a "trunk wiring repair harness" for our cars (p/n >61 128 391 788 $107.69). Since I am trying to sort these problems out, I >this would be a good way to do so. I don not like the idea of cutting into >the existing trunk harness to try to fix it, and REALLY don't like the idea >of the wires shorting out. Hi David, I bought that repair harness but never installed it. I come from the computer world and figured it would plug into the harness in the left rear fender. No such luck, you have to cut the factory harness at that point and splice in the repair harness. I never felt like cutting my factory harness in the trunk to just get the trunk light to work again. If I did cut it I would make my own plug and play harness with connectors from Fry's (any electronics house). Rex
-------------------- 9 --------------------
#9. RE: [E36M3] Rear Spoiler Install - from NabliLaw
Top
Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2006 17:12:43 -0400 From: "NabliLaw" <nabli@earthlink.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Rear Spoiler Install Kurt: Which wing do you have? Stock or LTW? If you have the stock kit then get install kit 51 71 2 260 329. IF you have the LTW spoiler then order kit 51 71 2 489 686. These will have the drilling templates etc.... Cheers, Jim E. -----Original Message----- From: Resener, Kurt [mailto:KurtResener@IamMorrison.com] Sent: Tuesday, August 01, 2006 4:07 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] Rear Spoiler Install Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2006 15:03:23 -0500 From: "Resener, Kurt" <KurtResener@IamMorrison.com> Subject: Rear Spoiler Install Came across a good deal on a used spoiler for my '95 coupe. Thought it'd be a cinch to install, just drill four holes and bolt her on.... Wrong. Anyone have any suggestions on how to mark and drill the holes in the proper spot, and then how to handle the underside of the deck lid where I'm guessing I'll have to drill a larger hole? Thanks! Kurt J. Resener DISCLAIMER Important! This message is intended for the above named person(s) only and is CONFIDENTIAL AND PROPRIETARY. If you are not the intended recipient of this e-mail and have received it in error, please forward to postmaster@yourfoodservice.com with 'Received in Error' as the subject and then delete it from your mailbox. Accessing, copying or re-using any of the information contained in this e-mail by anyone other than the intended recipient is unauthorized. Thank you. ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
-------------------- 10 --------------------
#10. Front brake pad and/or rotor issue - from Matt Weimer
Top
Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2006 14:26:07 -0700 (PDT) From: Matt Weimer <mjweimer@yahoo.com> Subject: Front brake pad and/or rotor issue I tried posting this the other day but the server was down: Has anyone had any issue with a set of new Hawk HPS pads being too thick when installed with a new set of rotors? I just installed the above with a new pair of Brembo rotors and 3 stops into the bedding procedure the hot brake smell was overwhelming. I did notice while installing that it took more force than usual to get the caliper over the rotor to the point of needing a rubber hammer. I assumed the rotor just was not seated perfectly and installing the wheel would square everything up...apparently not. On the way back to the house the car was noticeably slowing on its own while coasting in neutral. The calipers are freshly rebuilt (pistons were beautiful), the soft lines are new Stop-Tech's and the system was bled and flushed very carefully. I spoke with the guys at Bimmerworld and they stated that the HPS is a known tight fit when using new rotors with these pads. They suggested to continue driving the car, finish the bed-in procedure and everything should no longer bind. I am worried about trashing new parts by generating too much heat since the brakes are essentially dragging. Thoughts? Matt '95 M3 with blue tinted rotors __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com