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#1. Re: [E36M3] gas smell! - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2006 20:16:50 -0700 (PDT) From: "Jim Bassett" <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] gas smell! On Wed, August 2, 2006 7:57 pm, Kelvin said: > So, anything I should look for or look at? I couldn't tell from your post, is the smell inside the car? Chances are it's the rubber gaskets around the access hole(s) for the fuel pump/level sender(s). They apparently can degrade enough to allow vapor to escape (worse cases allow gas to escape). Try replacing the gaskets - about $6 or so each. Jim Bassett
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#2. Best place for Pagid Orange? - from Ivan Petrov
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Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2006 20:20:15 -0700 From: "Ivan Petrov" <crazyinp@hotmail.com> Subject: Best place for Pagid Orange? I am due for new pads, I really like how mine Pagid Orange works even for the street. So the question where is the best/cheap place to buy new ones. I need a set for Brembo BBK front and E36/M3 rear. Thanks Ivan
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#3. RE: Front brake pad and/or rotor issue - from Neil Maller
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Date: Wed, 02 Aug 2006 23:26:19 -0400 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: RE: Front brake pad and/or rotor issue on 8/2/06 11:07 PM, Matt Weimer <mjweimer@yahoo.com> wrote: > That is my plan as of this point. I spoke with a > technical rep. at Hawk today and they actually use a > mill to shave their pads to different thicknesses. Much as I like Hawk pads for their performance, I'm not sure their quality control is all that great. I've twice had their pads where the three-prong anti-rattle clip was riveted off-centre, meaning the pads wouldn't fit in the caliper properly. Now since I always grind off that rivet and ditch the clip (to allow swapping pads between the inside and outside to equalize wear) that wasn't an issue, but it does kind of bother me. Neil 96 M3
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#4. gas smell - from Skip Bogard
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Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2006 23:27:31 -0400 From: Skip Bogard <skipb@bellsouth.net> Subject: gas smell The white nipple on your gas tank pump/gas gauge sender probably broke at the base where the nipple meets the flat part. 1. Try not to fill up your tank more than 1/2 full anymore until you get this fixed. Only having a 1/2 tank of gas will help with the spillage. 2. don't take hard right turns...you'll just spill gas out of the car into the vicinity of the muffler...not a good thing. 3. If you like, remove the rear seat. Then remove the metal cover on the driver's side coveriing the pump/sender. 4. You'll probably find a pool of gas filling up what looks like a white cup (this is the top of the pump/sender) 5. Mop up as much of the gas as you can, then consider having a dealership make the repair. 6. If you dare to, gently push the nipple to one side if you can see a crack. This will either make the crack even larger, or at least convince you that you really have a broken pump/sender. Or, just assume it really is cracked (esp. if you just mopped up a pool of gas) and get it to the dealership. Smoking at anytime while taking these steps is of course a bad idea. -Skip
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#5. RE: [e36m3] [E36M3] RE: Front brake pad and/or rotor issue - from Marco
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Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2006 21:04:24 -0700 From: "Marco" <m3driver@iname.com> Subject: RE: [e36m3] [E36M3] RE: Front brake pad and/or rotor issue ever since I had the entire piece of friction material come off of one pad during a race I refuse to use Hawk pads. Marco -----Original Message----- From: Neil Maller [mailto:neil.maller@gte.net] Sent: Wednesday, August 02, 2006 8:37 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [e36m3] [E36M3] RE: Front brake pad and/or rotor issue Date: Wed, 02 Aug 2006 23:26:19 -0400 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: RE: Front brake pad and/or rotor issue on 8/2/06 11:07 PM, Matt Weimer <mjweimer@yahoo.com> wrote: > That is my plan as of this point. I spoke with a > technical rep. at Hawk today and they actually use a > mill to shave their pads to different thicknesses. Much as I like Hawk pads for their performance, I'm not sure their quality control is all that great. I've twice had their pads where the three-prong anti-rattle clip was riveted off-centre, meaning the pads wouldn't fit in the caliper properly. Now since I always grind off that rivet and ditch the clip (to allow swapping pads between the inside and outside to equalize wear) that wasn't an issue, but it does kind of bother me. Neil 96 M3 ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#6. Re: [E36M3] gas smell! - from Kelvin
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Date: Wed, 02 Aug 2006 21:38:31 -0700 From: Kelvin <mpower@obikwan.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] gas smell! The smell is actually from the outside of the car. I took my car out earlier and made sure all the windows were closed when I got back. Now the garage smells like gas. I just stuck my head inside of the car, and no smell there. Just the outside. -kelvin Jim Bassett wrote: > On Wed, August 2, 2006 7:57 pm, Kelvin said: > >> So, anything I should look for or look at? >> > > I couldn't tell from your post, is the smell inside the car? Chances are > it's the rubber gaskets around the access hole(s) for the fuel pump/level > sender(s). They apparently can degrade enough to allow vapor to escape > (worse cases allow gas to escape). > > Try replacing the gaskets - about $6 or so each. > > Jim Bassett > > > >
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#7. Re: [E36M3] RE: Front brake pad and/or rotor issue - from Mark Dadgar
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Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2006 22:14:10 -0700 From: Mark Dadgar <mark@pdc-racing.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: Front brake pad and/or rotor issue On Aug 2, 2006, at 8:37 PM, Neil Maller wrote: > on 8/2/06 11:07 PM, Matt Weimer <mjweimer@yahoo.com> wrote: >> That is my plan as of this point. I spoke with a >> technical rep. at Hawk today and they actually use a >> mill to shave their pads to different thicknesses. > > Much as I like Hawk pads for their performance, I'm not sure their > quality > control is all that great. I've twice had their pads where the > three-prong > anti-rattle clip was riveted off-centre, meaning the pads wouldn't > fit in > the caliper properly. I had this happen on my last set of Blues. Snipped the clip off and was good to go. I have to say, I really like Hawk pads. But then I don't end up in the gravel traps as often as Marco. :) - Mark ----- mark@pdc-racing.net Check out my JustRacing Home Page at: http://www.justracing.com/homepage/mdadgar
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#8. RE: [E36M3] gas smell! - from Paul L Fisher
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Date: Thu, 3 Aug 2006 06:14:48 -0500 From: "Paul L Fisher" <bmw@paul-fisher.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] gas smell! How do you fuel it? Do you stop fueling when it clicks or do you keep going? If you keep going, how much more? If you overfill the tank, excess can go to your charcoal canister and it will smell for a while, until it all evaporates. Paul L Fisher 2000 540i 6 E39 M62 TU Titanium Silver Metallic 2000 M Roadster E36/7 S52 Cosmos Black Metallic 1989 325ix E30 M20 Cinnabar Red Elkhorn, WI. -----Original Message----- From: Kelvin [mailto:mpower@obikwan.com] Sent: Wednesday, August 02, 2006 9:57 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] gas smell! Date: Wed, 02 Aug 2006 19:47:33 -0700 From: Kelvin <mpower@obikwan.com> Subject: gas smell! All, My '95 M3 has a very very strong fuel vapor odor. I filled up the car the other day and drove it 1mile to get it home. The next day I go into the garage and there's a VERY strong fuel vapor smell. I think maybe I don't have the cap on tight. Tighten it, smell doesn't go away. Today I put ClingWrap on the gas door hoping that maybe the gas cap is going bad. Nadda, still same problem. I just took the car out to Target. Drove with the windows down and no fuel smell inside the cabin. Parked the car, went inside. Came back out, and you could smell the fuel! This is outdoors mind you! So, anything I should look for or look at? One thing of note, is that prior to fueling the car up, I had taken the stock airbox out to take a look at how an intake system might be setup on the car. I don't believe I broke anything around that area. Is there a charcoal canister below the airbox? Any hints would be great! The vapors is driving me crazy, causing air pollution, and most importantly my gas is going up in thin air! =P Thanks! -kelvin ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm ************************************************* -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.10.5/405 - Release Date: 8/1/2006 -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.10.5/405 - Release Date: 8/1/2006
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#9. RE: Front brake pad and/or rotor issue - from William Townsend
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Date: Thu, 3 Aug 2006 10:32:08 -0400 From: "William Townsend" <wtownsend@juniper.net> Subject: RE: Front brake pad and/or rotor issue I had this same issue on my 97 328i. New rotors and new Hawk ceramics. The front caliper would have gone on..... if I used a dead blow hammer! All I did was peel the shim off the piston side pad. That one does almost nothing anyway. Brake assembly slid right on. Pads have never made a peep either, 3K later. If ya had to, just peel both shims off, assemble, drive for a week, put outer shim back in if it makes noise. I would not be up for sanding or milling, that stuff can't be good for you, sticks to everything too. The rears with new ceramics and rotors was no issue at all, slid right on. On the 328i, these pads are really no better than stock. Torque seems the same. Factory pads made dust like ya read about, yuch! The R4S pads by Porterfield were much better but the dust was high, and I wore them out. Thought I would give these a spin. I will say, the dust is very low and the color of the dust makes it seem as though they don't dust at all. Fine for the daily driver sedan, I like the less cleaning part! --Bill 96 M3 red 97 328i
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#10. RE: Gas Smell! - from Burgess, Kim L
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Date: Thu, 3 Aug 2006 07:58:39 -0700 From: "Burgess, Kim L" <kim.l.burgess@boeing.com> Subject: RE: Gas Smell! Kelvin - Remove the rear seat base, remove the circular access panels in the floor of the seat base. Below these openings is the fuel tank. The hoses to your fuel pump and fuel level sender are beginning to fail. Replace them. Others have reported loose clamps on these lines. KLBurgess -------------------- 10 -------------------- Date: Wed, 02 Aug 2006 19:47:33 -0700 From: Kelvin <mpower@obikwan.com> Subject: gas smell! All, My '95 M3 has a very very strong fuel vapor odor. I filled up the car the other day and drove it 1mile to get it home. The next day I go into the garage and there's a VERY strong fuel vapor smell. I think maybe I don't have the cap on tight. Tighten it, smell doesn't go away. Today I put ClingWrap on the gas door hoping that maybe the gas cap is going bad. Nadda, still same problem. I just took the car out to Target. Drove with the windows down and no fuel smell inside the cabin. Parked the car, went inside. Came back out, and you could smell the fuel! This is outdoors mind you! So, anything I should look for or look at? One thing of note, is that prior to fueling the car up, I had taken the stock airbox out to take a look at how an intake system might be setup on the car. I don't believe I broke anything around that area. Is there a charcoal canister below the airbox? Any hints would be great! The vapors is driving me crazy, causing air pollution, and most importantly my gas is going up in thin air! =P Thanks! -kelvin