E36M3 #4901

Friday, August 04, 2006 10:37:18

This digest contains the following messages:

#1. Re: [E36M3] Engine Mount Replacement - from Dave Thomas
#2. Re: [E36M3] 2 suspension noise issues - from Chris Teague
#3. Re: [E36M3] RE: Gas Smell! Figured it out! (I hope!) - from Kelvin
#4. Re: [E36M3] RE: Gas Smell! Figured it out! (I hope!) - from Tom Melton
#5. RE: [E36M3] 2 suspension noise issues - from Paul Andrews
#6. RE: 2 suspension noise issues - from Neil Maller
#7. Re: overflow tank :( - from Neil Maller
#8. Re: [E36M3] RE: Gas Smell! Figured it out! (I hope!) - from Jim Bassett
#9. Poseurs for the M name - from Carey Probst
#10. RE: [E36M3] 2 suspension noise issues - from Paul Andrews

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#1. Re: [E36M3] Engine Mount Replacement - from Dave Thomas
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Date: Thu, 3 Aug 2006 17:41:35 -0700 From: Dave Thomas <dave@sasdatalink.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Engine Mount Replacement On Wednesday 26 July 2006 1:17 pm, Gary wrote: > Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2006 15:13:09 -0500 > From: "Gary" <probikeguy@probikeusa.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Engine Mount Replacement > > All you need is a floor jack, the motor up on the oil pan..done it > numerous times no big deal.. And you don't have to drop the subframe any. > > Gary Yep...just finished this job 5 minutes ago. Took about 2 hours at a real casual pace. Hot tip: If you remove the bottom nut from your transmission mounts you can lift the engine up that extra 1/2" that makes all the difference. At least that was the case with my UUC mounts. Stock ones would probably just rip and make it easy ;-) FWIW: My old mounts with 100K on them were almost 10MM shorter than the new ones. Squish. Dave T.

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#2. Re: [E36M3] 2 suspension noise issues - from Chris Teague
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Date: Thu, 3 Aug 2006 18:12:00 -0700 From: "Chris Teague" <cteague@cox.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] 2 suspension noise issues Paul, I've had the yellow Koni single adjustable shocks, the yellow ProParts built Koni double adjustables, and the cad plated TCKline Koni double adjustables. I also have the ground-control rear shock mounts. I do think the rears make some small click noises. It hadn't bothered me that much until I read some posts on that on bimmerforums. Now I hear it more. ;-) ProParts was started as a deal between TriPoint Engineering and TCKline. I think it's all TriPoint now, since nothing on TCKline's web site points to ProParts any more. Just a guess. Anyway, ProParts is an authorized Koni rebuild center. They were the only source of Koni DA's for E36's in the early days, and they were custom built. Later, TCKline had Koni build them to his specs, but those were cad plated, not painted yellow. Since yours have ProParts stickers, they were probably rebuilt by them. They may have even been made by them. There is a serial number on the sticker. I would call up ProParts (818-888-8904) and give them the serial numbers, and ask them what they know about those shocks. They do keep records of them I'm told. I run my car in STU, and the Koni DA's work great, even with some noise from the back. So it's possible it's not a serious issue. I know I've seen others say the same thing. Let me know what you find out. Chris 97 M3/4 STU ----- Original Message ----- > The other issue is not as simple. I bought a used TC Kline double > adjustable coilover system from somebody on BimmerForums recently, and > it's not making me happy. The rear shocks make a knock or click noise > whenever they change direction. They aren't bottoming, this is on > normal small motions in everyday driving. The shock mounts are Ground > Control, I took them apart and they look OK. The chassis mount points > are fine. The rear shocks are yellow, and have Pro-Parts stickers on > them, but someone told me that Pro-Parts used to make bits for TC Kline. > Is this noise just a sign that the shocks are worn out and need to be > rebuilt? The PO claimed they were rebuilt at last year's Solo Nationals > (didn't mention who rebuilt them, perhaps that's why the Pro-Parts > sticker is there). He also specifically told me the system is silent, > but I've found a post of his from earlier this year asking about this > very problem, so I'm not happy about that, either. I found a few > references to rear shock noise on the TCK D/A shocks, but no resolution. > I haven't talked to TCK yet, but I will. Does anyone have this issue, > and have you found a solution? > > Thank you, > > Paul Andrews > # 42 STU Alpine M3/4

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#3. Re: [E36M3] RE: Gas Smell!  Figured it out! (I hope!) - from Kelvin
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Date: Thu, 03 Aug 2006 21:08:43 -0700 From: Kelvin <mpower@obikwan.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: Gas Smell! Figured it out! (I hope!) Ok folks, you guys are going to publicly flog me for this. You guys were right and I was wrong! =P (hmmm, does that sound familiar for those of you who are married?) The fuel smell was coming from OUTSIDE the car and hence I didn't think the leak was from the inside. I took out the rear seat per everyone's suggestion. I took the cover off on the passenger side. Nothing, just a lot of dust, though it does look like someone was there before because it has the "screw type" of hose clamps (worm gear I believe it's called). I took the cover off the driver's side, DING DING DING DING. There's a pool of fuel there. The question now is, what do I replace? I didn't take the hoses off nor did I start the car to see where it's leaking. It's dark out, and I don't feel like blowing my garage up. Any hints? Is the driver's side the pump or the sender? This list and its members are the best! I would never have guessed to look there simply based on where the smell was originating from. =D Now help me figure out what to replace and how to replace it! =P Thanks! -kelvin

Reply to: Kelvin

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#4. Re: [E36M3] RE: Gas Smell!  Figured it out! (I hope!) - from Tom Melton
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Date: Fri, 04 Aug 2006 05:26:33 -0400 From: "Tom Melton" <Tom.Melton@emoryhealthcare.org> Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: Gas Smell! Figured it out! (I hope!) Kelvin, The leak IS outside the car. The fuel tank is on the outside, those two black metal panels you removed separate the inside from the outside. The right side (passenger) is the combination fuel pump/sender. The left side (driver) is just the sender/return side. Does the left side have worm gear clamps? A previous poster said that the plastic can crack where the hose connects causing a leak. Either that or a frayed hose, or loose clamps. -Tom >>> Kelvin <mpower@obikwan.com> 8/4/2006 12:17 am >>> <snip> The fuel smell was coming from OUTSIDE the car and hence I didn't think the leak was from the inside. I took out the rear seat per everyone's suggestion. I took the cover off on the passenger side. Nothing, just a lot of dust, though it does look like someone was there before because it has the "screw type" of hose clamps (worm gear I believe it's called). I took the cover off the driver's side, DING DING DING DING. There's a pool of fuel there. The question now is, what do I replace? I didn't take the hoses off nor did I start the car to see where it's leaking. It's dark out, and I don't feel like blowing my garage up. Any hints? Is the driver's side the pump or the sender?

Reply to: Tom Melton

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#5. RE: [E36M3] 2 suspension noise issues - from Paul Andrews
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Date: Fri, 04 Aug 2006 07:20:45 -0400 From: "Paul Andrews" <emosound@verizon.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] 2 suspension noise issues Bike shop, that's a great suggestion. Thank you! -Paul -----Original Message----- From: Zack Steinkamp [mailto:thenobot@yahoo.com] Sent: Thursday, August 03, 2006 8:07 PM To: E36M3 Subject: RE: [E36M3] 2 suspension noise issues Date: Thu, 3 Aug 2006 17:05:05 -0700 (PDT) From: Zack Steinkamp <thenobot@yahoo.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] 2 suspension noise issues You can find thin wrenches for cheap at a bike shop. My money is on a nut that isn't tight enough. With a rattly endlink nut, you run the risk of having the nut pull through the mounting flange, which then is a fix that involves welding up a new flange. -zs

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#6. RE: 2 suspension noise issues - from Neil Maller
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Date: Fri, 04 Aug 2006 09:16:31 -0400 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: RE: 2 suspension noise issues on 8/3/06 8:17 PM, "Paul Andrews" <emosound@verizon.net> wrote: > I don't own a wrench thin enough to go behind the bar, but the link bolt > isn't spinning, and I can get the nut pretty tight. Then you need to get one. The Sears Craftsman Pro Series (the fully polished wrenches) 16mm will fit. You will *not* be able to snug the link fastener down adequately without. You can use any self-locking nut, not just the BMW version. I get Nylock nuts at my local hardware store. You should also be able to find them at big box home improvement stores such as Home Depot or Lowe's. Neil 96 M3

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#7. Re: overflow tank :( - from Neil Maller
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Date: Fri, 04 Aug 2006 09:21:43 -0400 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: overflow tank :( on 8/3/06 5:57 PM, Mel Silva <melsilva@mindspring.com> wrote: > Should this overflow tank be replaced as part of the radiator replacement > regimen? Yes, I think so. At around $30 IIRC it's inexpensive enough not to be a big deal, and reports of failure seem common enough. I replaced mine a few years ago when it became so discoloured that I couldn't easily check the coolant level, and I'm glad I did. For the serious upgrader Zionsville now has an aluminum overflow tank option for their radiator. Of course it wouldn't be all that transparent either. <g> Neil 96 M3

Reply to: Neil Maller

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#8. Re: [E36M3] RE: Gas Smell!  Figured it out! (I hope!) - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Fri, 4 Aug 2006 07:47:57 -0700 (PDT) From: "Jim Bassett" <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: Gas Smell! Figured it out! (I hope!) On Thu, August 3, 2006 9:17 pm, Kelvin said: > The question now is, what do I replace? I didn't take the hoses off nor > did I start the car to see where it's leaking. It's dark out, and I > don't feel like blowing my garage up. Stop worrying, you're not going to blow up your garage :-) > Any hints? Is the driver's side > the pump or the sender? IIRC, the driver's side is a sender only (pump is on the pass. side). If they aren't already, make sure you use worm-drive hose clamps, just like the other side. I would definitely replace the rubber gasket (as I mentioned before :-)); there's also a possibility the plastic nipples the hoses slide over on the sender unit have cracked - remove the hoses and inspect. > Now help me figure out what to replace and how to replace it! =P Well, we've given you things to check/look for. Time to get your hands dirty! :-) Jim Bassett - BTDT, several times :-)

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#9. Poseurs for the M name - from Carey Probst
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Date: Fri, 04 Aug 2006 11:04:24 -0400 From: Carey Probst <hcprobst@alum.mit.edu> Subject: Poseurs for the M name I just ran across what I thought was an M poseur, an E46 325 with the ///M insignia. On closer look the ///M was not either an M or M3/M5 badge but a dealer badge but without the colors on the ///M, just silver. Anyone familiar with this dealer? Looks pretty tacky to me and I can't remember the dealer name. Want to make sure I never use their deceptive? practices. thanks. Carey -- Carey Probst '99M3 daily driver '86 325 track toy, cammed, chipped, swayed A well regulated militia being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear arms shall not be infringed.

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#10. RE: [E36M3] 2 suspension noise issues - from Paul Andrews
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Date: Fri, 04 Aug 2006 11:33:42 -0400 From: "Paul Andrews" <emosound@verizon.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] 2 suspension noise issues Thank you Chris, This is the kind of info I'm looking for. I'll give ProParts a call and see what they say. I was just playing with the car in the garage, and I think the left shock makes more noise than the right one. Odd. -Paul -----Original Message----- From: Chris Teague Paul, I've had the yellow Koni single adjustable shocks, the yellow ProParts built Koni double adjustables, and the cad plated TCKline Koni double adjustables. I also have the ground-control rear shock mounts. I do think the rears make some small click noises. It hadn't bothered me that much until I read some posts on that on bimmerforums. Now I hear it more. ;-) ProParts was started as a deal between TriPoint Engineering and TCKline. I think it's all TriPoint now, since nothing on TCKline's web site points to ProParts any more. Just a guess. Anyway, ProParts is an authorized Koni rebuild center. They were the only source of Koni DA's for E36's in the early days, and they were custom built. Later, TCKline had Koni build them to his specs, but those were cad plated, not painted yellow. Since yours have ProParts stickers, they were probably rebuilt by them. They may have even been made by them. There is a serial number on the sticker. I would call up ProParts (818-888-8904) and give them the serial numbers, and ask them what they know about those shocks. They do keep records of them I'm told. I run my car in STU, and the Koni DA's work great, even with some noise from the back. So it's possible it's not a serious issue. I know I've seen others say the same thing. Let me know what you find out. Chris 97 M3/4 STU ----- Original Message ----- > The other issue is not as simple. I bought a used TC Kline double > adjustable coilover system from somebody on BimmerForums recently, and > it's not making me happy. The rear shocks make a knock or click noise > whenever they change direction. They aren't bottoming, this is on > normal small motions in everyday driving. The shock mounts are Ground > Control, I took them apart and they look OK. The chassis mount points > are fine. The rear shocks are yellow, and have Pro-Parts stickers on > them, but someone told me that Pro-Parts used to make bits for TC > Kline. Is this noise just a sign that the shocks are worn out and need > to be rebuilt? The PO claimed they were rebuilt at last year's Solo > Nationals (didn't mention who rebuilt them, perhaps that's why the > Pro-Parts sticker is there). He also specifically told me the system > is silent, but I've found a post of his from earlier this year asking > about this very problem, so I'm not happy about that, either. I found > a few references to rear shock noise on the TCK D/A shocks, but no > resolution. I haven't talked to TCK yet, but I will. Does anyone have > this issue, and have you found a solution? > > Thank you, > > Paul Andrews > # 42 STU Alpine M3/4

Reply to: Paul Andrews

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