-------------------- 1 --------------------
#1. Re: [E36M3] 95 M3 valve spring retainers - from Jamie Howton
Top
Date: Tue, 8 Aug 2006 15:04:24 -0500 From: "Jamie Howton" <jhowton@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] 95 M3 valve spring retainers > I am going to pony up for the replacement of the VS retainers on my early > build 95. Are there any other items that I should consider while going into > the engine to that extent? The job will be performed with the head in place > (pressurizing the cylinders). It would be a perfect time to install a set of aftermarket camshafts... -- Jamie Howton 2006 M Roadster 2000 M5 1995 M3 Hampshire, IL
-------------------- 2 --------------------
#2. Re: [E36M3] 95 M3 valve spring retainers - from Skip Bogard
Top
Date: Tue, 8 Aug 2006 16:24:58 -0400 From: Skip Bogard <skipb@bellsouth.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] 95 M3 valve spring retainers Instead of nitrided retainers, I had Korman put on titanium retainers at 25,000 miles. I now have 196,000 miles on the car and it runs like new. ...no oil burning...snarls like a banshee...never a Vanos problem...I count my blessings. If you have Ti retainers installed, you want the valve springs blueprinted for Ti. This means getting sharp edges off...Ti is very strong, but it is "notch sensitive", so if it gets nicked by a spring's edge, it will break. Korman showed me a before & after of the springs before they put 'em in...it was as smooth a finish as an ABEC 3 inline skate bearing. I have 170k miles on the head w/ not a single issue. I had an exhaust manifold ceramic coated inside & out. Actually, I have the original one that Korman tried to use in an actual race. During tech inspection, they disqualified the mod as class illegal. Korman tried to tell 'em "it's just silver paint" The inspector didn't buy it...so Korman 'borrowed' one from a BMW E36 in the parking lot so they could race. I think this was back when Korman & Turner might have been a team racing two cars together, from memory. If you get the exhaust manifold coated, you want the gasket 'blueprinted'. This just means carefully matched so there isn't any obstructions to create turbulence or resistance. Lastly, I had Korman "pocket port" the head. This is supposed to be good for about 12-14 HP. It's not a radical porting...it's just a mild treatment of about a 3/8" or so area in the head that has crappy casting from the factory .....all E36's suffer from it. Are you sure your retainers haven't already been replaced? A lot of '95 M3's that are 2nd or 3rd owner have probably had a new head or engine....seems like once a week someone was bending valves from overrev & got new retainers in the process. And if you haven't had 'em installed...then you probably already have slightly bent valve stems (I think I had 6-7 slightly bent...they straightened them. ....I think you might think again about not pulling the head....it's a great time to do some real work on it if you plan to keep the car and it sounds like you will. - Skip Bogard > > From: "Rick Dahlka" <rickd@swfla.rr.com> > Date: 2006/08/08 Tue PM 03:46:57 EDT > To: E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> > Subject: [E36M3] 95 M3 valve spring retainers > > Date: Tue, 8 Aug 2006 15:36:49 -0400 > From: "Rick Dahlka" <rickd@swfla.rr.com> > Subject: 95 M3 valve spring retainers > > I am going to pony up for the replacement of the VS retainers on my early > build 95. Are there any other items that I should consider while going into > the engine to that extent? The job will be performed with the head in place > (pressurizing the cylinders).
-------------------- 3 --------------------
#3. Re: [E36M3] Bringing Back the Brake Pad Battle - from Jonathan Evans
Top
Date: Tue, 8 Aug 2006 16:22:57 -0400 From: "Jonathan Evans" <jonathanevans@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Bringing Back the Brake Pad Battle I'll second that motion on Carbotech. Great guys that make a great pad. I run XP8 and XP9 on the Miata (very scary on the street under 40 deg F, but fantastic on the track). I'm on my second set of Bobcats on the M3. Great mix street/track pad with MUCH LESS brake dust than stock pads. Just make sure to bed them in according to their procedure (with new rotors). -J '95 M3 > > -------------------- 9 -------------------- > Date: Tue, 08 Aug 2006 13:47:37 -0400 > From: Carey Probst <hcprobst@alum.mit.edu> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Bringing Back the Brake Pad Battle > > I've gotten really hooked on the ceramic setup from www.carbotecheng.com > or from one of our list members, Gerry Low <gerry@parallel-mkt.com>. > > I run the XP8s on both my M3 and 325 for track and late > spring/summer/early fall, returning to stock pads for the winter. No > serious dusting and great grip. Mild rotor wear, at least for the XP8. snip
-------------------- 4 --------------------
#4. Re: Headliner - from chipmitchell@gmail.com
Top
Date: Tue, 8 Aug 2006 17:04:51 -0400 From: "chipmitchell@gmail.com" <chipmitchell@gmail.com> Subject: Re: Headliner Depending on the color, its fairly easy to replace yourself, or have a local upholstry shop do it. It is held in by the trim on the A/B/C pillars, window and sunroof gaskets, grab handles, and sun visors. Remove all that stuff, and the headliner drops right down. The old liner/foam will come right off with a stiff brush. Spray both the new headliner and the fiberglass backing with headliner adhesive, let it set for 5-10 minutes (read the instructions), and stick them together. The tricky part is the very rear edge. Pay attention to how the old stuff is on there - it folds underneath the curved part of the fiberglass (you'll see once you're in there). If you trim too much off here, the rear edge of the headliner won't stay attached to the roof. ChipM > -------------------- 1 -------------------- > Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2006 15:32:57 -0400 > From: "M540" <m540@bellsouth.net> > Subject: Sagging Headliner > > All: > > What is the preferred repair solution for a sagging headliner? The > headliner in my wife's '95 M3 caught us both completely off guard recently, > simply appearing to let go from its backing. The fabric is now drooping > across the entire ceiling and separating from the trim around the sunroof. > (The sunroof panel appears fine for now.) Do I need to replace the entire > headliner (if so, any tips for removal? Preferred part source?) or is there > a repair method (DIY or otherwise) that yields good results? Concours > appearance is not necessary but it's currently a bit ragged for our tastes. > > Thank you for the help! > > Kevin >
-------------------- 5 --------------------
#5. Re: [E36M3] Bringing Back the Brake Pad Battle - from Jay Hudson
Top
Date: Tue, 8 Aug 2006 14:20:59 -0700 From: "Jay Hudson" <jwhud@budget.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Bringing Back the Brake Pad Battle Another one to consider is the Porterfield R4. Not as good as the HT-10 and not as expensive either. Porterfield gives a 20% discount to members of Suzy's list. They also sell Hawks and some others. I switched from R4s to HT-10s. Next front set is HT-14. Jay > Date: Tue, 8 Aug 2006 10:07:37 -0700 (PDT) > From: Jeff Conner <jeff.conner@yahoo.com> > Subject: Bringing Back the Brake Pad Battle > > So, > > I think I read every post from the thread that started last April and have > yet > to find a conclusion as to what would be best for me (and my wife) as a > set of > track pads. > > I'm not a racer, but on the track I will drive hard and put my foot into > the > brakes. I'm going to Thunderhill at the end of August so I'll need > something to > withstand the heat. It would also be cool if these pads could double as my > Auto-X pads, but that's not a sticking point at all. > > I've been told good things about Cobalt SpecVR, HT-10, Ferodo DS3000 and > PF-01. > Lots here have raved about the HT-10 (and HT-14/10 combination). > > Which would be best for an intermediate level track freak (me :) without > shredding my rotors or making my wheels look like gunmetal? > > TIA > > -jeff > 98///Sedan
-------------------- 6 --------------------
#6. Re: [E36M3] Bringing Back the Brake Pad Battle - from Gus Iverson
Top
Date: Tue, 8 Aug 2006 14:26:48 -0700 From: "Gus Iverson" <gus.iverson@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Bringing Back the Brake Pad Battle If you're driving on the street, the Ferodo DS3000s might be a bit much. I'm currently street / tracking the DS2500s and other than a rather annoying squeak at low speed (think stop and go traffic or parking lot conditions) I love them. Less dust than the OEM pads. On the track, everyone who rides with me comments on how great the brakes are. There's no fade and they are very predictable. Overall clamping power is somewhat less than I remember from my old Hawk Blues that I ran on my Mustang Cobra but that isn't a really fair comparison. Remember, I'm talking about HPDE performance levels here, not racing. I drive hard and brake hard at the track, too, but I'm not looking to save a second a lap from braking. What I want is predictable brakes that I don't have to change before heading to the track (one more thing that takes time to set up and tear down so I can drive to work) and will stand up to R compound tires. If I were racing, I would definately look into the Hawk HT10 or HT14 pads or something similar but I would never drive those on the street for any appreciable distance. Gus On 8/8/06, Jeff Conner <jeff.conner@yahoo.com> wrote: > Date: Tue, 8 Aug 2006 10:07:37 -0700 (PDT) > From: Jeff Conner <jeff.conner@yahoo.com> > Subject: Bringing Back the Brake Pad Battle > > So, > > I think I read every post from the thread that started last April and have yet > to find a conclusion as to what would be best for me (and my wife) as a set of > track pads. > > I'm not a racer, but on the track I will drive hard and put my foot into the > brakes. I'm going to Thunderhill at the end of August so I'll need something to > withstand the heat. It would also be cool if these pads could double as my > Auto-X pads, but that's not a sticking point at all. > > I've been told good things about Cobalt SpecVR, HT-10, Ferodo DS3000 and PF-01. > Lots here have raved about the HT-10 (and HT-14/10 combination). > > Which would be best for an intermediate level track freak (me :) without > shredding my rotors or making my wheels look like gunmetal? > > TIA > > -jeff > 98///Sedan > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around > http://mail.yahoo.com > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > >
-------------------- 7 --------------------
#7.Misc. Parts - from Matt Weimer
Top
Date: Tue, 8 Aug 2006 15:48:05 -0700 (PDT) From: Matt Weimer <mjweimer@yahoo.com> Subject: <FS> Misc. Parts I have the following used parts for sale: Stock 1995 M3 springs 100k miles - $75/set Complete set of Earl's stainless brake lines with pretty blue covering, these were sold by BMP - $50/set 1995 upper strut bearing assy. 100k miles - $75/pair Bilstein sport front struts, some corrosion around the welds but only cosmetic, drivers side upper shaft threads are stripped thanks to PO's mechanic and a super air wrench used for assembly. These can be shipped to Bilstein for rebuild and would be perfectly fine thereafter. Would make good track car spares. Used for 50k miles - $60/pair Brand new Bilstein Sport front bumpstops, these are the new style and are shorter than the originals. Replace the hammered original pieces on your car - $25 Front Metal master pads used for 10k miles - $35/set All prices are OBO plus shipping from 47274. Email me for pictures and with questions. Matt Weimer Hoosier Chapter __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com
-------------------- 8 --------------------
#8. Re: [E36M3] Sagging Headliner - from Dave Swingle
Top
Date: Tue, 8 Aug 2006 21:41:40 -0500 From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle@dmcnews.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Sagging Headliner I've never done it on a BMW but on other cars you have to remove the entire headliner, strip the material and rotted foam off the board, and then re-cover it with new material. The material you buy is cloth with the foam bonded to it. You glue it in place with 3M interior trim contact adhesive (aerosol), available at better autoparts stores. I'm sure there are online places to get it, but I went to an auto upholstery shop and bought it by the yard. Dave S Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2006 15:32:57 -0400 From: "M540" <m540@bellsouth.net> Subject: Sagging Headliner All: What is the preferred repair solution for a sagging headliner? The headliner in my wife's '95 M3 caught us both completely off guard recently, simply appearing to let go from its backing. The fabric is now drooping across the entire ceiling and separating from the trim around the sunroof. (The sunroof panel appears fine for now.) Do I need to replace the entire headliner (if so, any tips for removal? Preferred part source?) or is there a repair method (DIY or otherwise) that yields good results? Concours appearance is not necessary but it's currently a bit ragged for our tastes. Thank you for the help! Kevin
-------------------- 9 --------------------
#9. Camera mount - new - from James Clay
Top
Date: Tue, 8 Aug 2006 23:56:09 -0400 From: "James Clay" <james@bimmerworld.com> Subject: Camera mount - new Thought this was pretty cool for DE stuff. Not a big item for us, but certainly useful and cheaper than a lot out there I think. http://www.nexternal.com/bimmerworl/Product810 James Clay http://www.bimmerworld.com http://www.bimmerworldracing.com http://www.powerflexusa.com Race Proven BMW Performance 877.639.9648
-------------------- 10 --------------------
#10. RE: Summit Point Weekend - from dhogg
Top
Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2006 07:38:26 -0400 From: "dhogg" <dhogg@suscom.net> Subject: RE: Summit Point Weekend Ahmed, Thanks for not mentioning that I peddled so hard to get back up to you on Saturday after going off track to avoid a spin right in front of me, that I put it in the gravel trap on the next-to-last lap. That put me on the back row for Sunday. On Sunday I did manage to pass the dozen or so cars between us, but I could never catch you. I finished 20 seconds behind you after an hour of racing. An hour just isn't enough when things are so closely matched. Come to think of it, in the absence of mistakes, three hours probably wouldn't have been enough. Fun time! Who's coming to the Glen next month? Dave Hogg #20 IS