-------------------- 1 --------------------
#1. Re: [E36M3] RE: startup squeak - from Peter Loron
Top
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2006 10:13:12 -0700 From: "Peter Loron" <peterloron@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: startup squeak Yeah, I've now seen the threads on Bimmerforums about it. Since WA allows you to go have the emissions test with the car warmed up, I don't think it's an option unless they are picky about thrown codes. Anybody know how the computer checks for the presence of the pump? Can a particular pair of wires simply be jumped with a resistor? -Pete On 8/22/06, Alexander Fadeev <afadeev@smu.edu> wrote: > > What Kim said. > I had my Secondary Air Pump (SAP) replaced barely out of warranty. The > rumored failure mode is that the valve on the exhaust manifold that runs > the > pump fails and sticks open. This feeds the pressure and moisture to the > pump > that ends up corroding and prematurely wearing out its bearings => thus > the > howling noise you hear. > As a precaution, I had replaced the exhaust valve with the new SAP. > > Unplugging/removing the SAP will trigger the CE light, but will _not_ > adversely effect the engine or the drivability. It is a 100% emissions > fooling devise (feed extra air to the cats when the engine is cold). There > is no harm in delaying the repair unless a). The noise bothers you; b). > You > need to pass inspection. > > Tip: the 3 rubber legs holding the pump to the engine bay are super > fragile > and silly expensive (> $20 each). Be extra careful removing the old pump > first. Prevent any torque application through the rubber legs when you > unscrew them or they will brake. Try to remove the old pump first. See how > many legs you can salvage. Then order a new pump with the necessary # of > replacement legs. > > HTH, > alex f > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Burgess, Kim L [mailto:kim.l.burgess@boeing.com] > > Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2006 12:36 PM > > Subject: RE: startup squeak > > > > Peter - Disconnecting the Secondary Air Pump will cause an error > > code and a CE light. > > BimmerForums about 2 years ago was full of reports of CE lights > > after replacing stock head pipes with non-OBDII headers. These > > headers had no provision for the SAP plumbing. > > My wife's 328 does the same thing. I have replaced it with a less > > dirty one - there is a non-replaceable filter in the air pump. > > I have seen reports that the valve needs to be replaced also. The > > purpose of the SAP is to add O2 aiding the 'cat' in 'disposing' > > of CO, during the rich-mixture start-up phase. > > KLBurgess > > -------------------- 5 -------------------- > > Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2006 11:16:06 -0700 > > From: "Peter Loron" <peterloron@gmail.com> > > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: startup squeak > > > > Can the secondary blower (the one the runs at startup for a few > > minutes for smog) be disconnected without making the computer > > freak and throw codes? Mine howls like a banshee and since it's > > not actually reducing the total pollution any... - Pete > >
-------------------- 2 --------------------
#2. Re: [E36M3] RE: startup squeak - from Gus Iverson
Top
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2006 13:18:23 -0700 From: "Gus Iverson" <gus.iverson@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: startup squeak With an ODB-2 car in WA the test is to simply hook up the emissions computer to your computer port and run the car for a few minutes. There is no startup test and you can come in hot. I would expect you would be fine *IF* you can convince the computer to not throw codes from a lack of the pump's operation / existence. Gus On 8/22/06, Peter Loron <peterloron@gmail.com> wrote: > Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2006 10:13:12 -0700 > From: "Peter Loron" <peterloron@gmail.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: startup squeak > > Yeah, I've now seen the threads on Bimmerforums about it. Since WA allows > you to go have the emissions test with the car warmed up, I don't think it's > an option unless they are picky about thrown codes. > > Anybody know how the computer checks for the presence of the pump? Can a > particular pair of wires simply be jumped with a resistor? > > -Pete > > > On 8/22/06, Alexander Fadeev <afadeev@smu.edu> wrote: > > > > What Kim said. > > I had my Secondary Air Pump (SAP) replaced barely out of warranty. The > > rumored failure mode is that the valve on the exhaust manifold that runs > > the > > pump fails and sticks open. This feeds the pressure and moisture to the > > pump > > that ends up corroding and prematurely wearing out its bearings => thus > > the > > howling noise you hear. > > As a precaution, I had replaced the exhaust valve with the new SAP. > > > > Unplugging/removing the SAP will trigger the CE light, but will _not_ > > adversely effect the engine or the drivability. It is a 100% emissions > > fooling devise (feed extra air to the cats when the engine is cold). There > > is no harm in delaying the repair unless a). The noise bothers you; b). > > You > > need to pass inspection. > > > > Tip: the 3 rubber legs holding the pump to the engine bay are super > > fragile > > and silly expensive (> $20 each). Be extra careful removing the old pump > > first. Prevent any torque application through the rubber legs when you > > unscrew them or they will brake. Try to remove the old pump first. See how > > many legs you can salvage. Then order a new pump with the necessary # of > > replacement legs. > > > > HTH, > > alex f > > > > -----Original Message----- > > > From: Burgess, Kim L [mailto:kim.l.burgess@boeing.com] > > > Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2006 12:36 PM > > > Subject: RE: startup squeak > > > > > > Peter - Disconnecting the Secondary Air Pump will cause an error > > > code and a CE light. > > > BimmerForums about 2 years ago was full of reports of CE lights > > > after replacing stock head pipes with non-OBDII headers. These > > > headers had no provision for the SAP plumbing. > > > My wife's 328 does the same thing. I have replaced it with a less > > > dirty one - there is a non-replaceable filter in the air pump. > > > I have seen reports that the valve needs to be replaced also. The > > > purpose of the SAP is to add O2 aiding the 'cat' in 'disposing' > > > of CO, during the rich-mixture start-up phase. > > > KLBurgess > > > -------------------- 5 -------------------- > > > Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2006 11:16:06 -0700 > > > From: "Peter Loron" <peterloron@gmail.com> > > > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: startup squeak > > > > > > Can the secondary blower (the one the runs at startup for a few > > > minutes for smog) be disconnected without making the computer > > > freak and throw codes? Mine howls like a banshee and since it's > > > not actually reducing the total pollution any... - Pete > > > > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > >
-------------------- 3 --------------------
#3. RE: [E36M3] BMW discount parts dealers? - from Dave DeBuhr
Top
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2006 14:44:15 -0700 From: "Dave DeBuhr" <debuhr@comcast.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] BMW discount parts dealers? I had the notious leak when I bought my 98. I replaced the hose clamp on the bottom of the PS fluid tank with 2 nice worm gear type clamps butted up against each other and it hasn't leaked a drop in 3 years. -----Original Message----- From: Peter Loron [mailto:peterloron@gmail.com] Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2006 6:46 AM To: E36M3 Subject: Re: [E36M3] BMW discount parts dealers? Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2006 06:43:01 -0700 From: "Peter Loron" <peterloron@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] BMW discount parts dealers? A number of folks on Bimmerforums have had success in making their own hoses and simply using good hose clamps on the ends instead of the original fittings. I don't have a link handy, but if you search there you'll find the threads. -Pete
-------------------- 4 --------------------
#4. RE: [E36M3] BMW discount parts dealers? - from Scott McClung
Top
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2006 14:49:00 -0700 (PDT) From: Scott McClung <smlists@pacbell.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] BMW discount parts dealers? wow - simple fix. You would have thought the previous owner would have done that before you got the car, eh? ;-) Scott Dave DeBuhr <debuhr@comcast.net> wrote: Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2006 14:44:15 -0700 From: "Dave DeBuhr" Subject: RE: [E36M3] BMW discount parts dealers? I had the notious leak when I bought my 98. I replaced the hose clamp on the bottom of the PS fluid tank with 2 nice worm gear type clamps butted up against each other and it hasn't leaked a drop in 3 years. -----Original Message----- From: Peter Loron [mailto:peterloron@gmail.com] Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2006 6:46 AM To: E36M3 Subject: Re: [E36M3] BMW discount parts dealers? Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2006 06:43:01 -0700 From: "Peter Loron" Subject: Re: [E36M3] BMW discount parts dealers? A number of folks on Bimmerforums have had success in making their own hoses and simply using good hose clamps on the ends instead of the original fittings. I don't have a link handy, but if you search there you'll find the threads. -Pete ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
-------------------- 5 --------------------
#5. 1996 Arctic Silver M3 5 speed for sale - from Mark D
Top
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2006 21:12:10 -0400 From: Mark D <mdlkml@atari-source.com> Subject: 1996 Arctic Silver M3 5 speed for sale Hey guys, M3 for sale by knowledgeable list member for reasonable price. $9750 to a list member. Looking to go E46 :-D Short summary, almost perfect, a tiny issues on the body (otherwise perfect like new paint), mismatched front and rear tires due to necessity (no stock of matching front tires), will need brakes and possibly a tie rod sometime. http://philadelphia.craigslist.org/car/197587730.html Pretty good candidate for someone looking to race or autocross. The ad says it all. If anyone takes issue with anything, please let me know. Thanks, Mark
-------------------- 6 --------------------
#6. M3 ABS - from Jason Lombard
Top
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2006 20:35:14 -0700 (PDT) From: Jason Lombard <jrlombard@yahoo.com> Subject: M3 ABS First off, I apologize for the cross post to those of you that are on several lists. I'm getting an ASC/ABS light error on an intermittent basis--and replacing the soldered connections is the only fix to my knowledge (short of buying a new pump at $1000-$1400, depending on who you talk to). I was wondering if anyone had converted their E36 M3 to a race car and/or had one of these laying around. I want to do the repair on a unit out of the car and swap with the unit in the car all in one shot to minimize down time. Thanks. Jason Lombard '96 M3 Dakar/Black (719) 439-1055
-------------------- 7 --------------------
#7. BBS RX wheel (-s) anyone? - from Alexander Fadeev
Top
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2006 23:55:27 -0400 From: "Alexander Fadeev" <afadeev@smu.edu> Subject: BBS RX wheel (-s) anyone? Folks, I need at least one (1), but preferably a set of 17x8 BBS RX E36 fitment wheels. The cosmetic condition is irrelevant, though should be correlated with the asking price. They do need to be round for obvious reasons. Please email/call me (info below) if you have, or know someone who might be willing to part with the wheel(-s). TIA, alex f 214-566-6560 (cell) afadeev@mit.edu
-------------------- 8 --------------------
#8. WTB- (2) 245/40r17 SO3 - from Glenn Halperin
Top
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2006 21:30:01 -0700 From: "Glenn Halperin" <hhhalperin@comcast.net> Subject: WTB- (2) 245/40r17 SO3 I'm looking for 2 245/40r17 SO3. Anyone have a idea where to get a pair. Thanks, Glenn Halperin '98 M3/4 Helrot -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.405 / Virus Database: 268.11.5/425 - Release Date: 8/22/2006
-------------------- 9 --------------------
#9. RE: [E36M3] M3 ABS - from Paul L Fisher
Top
Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2006 06:29:06 -0500 From: "Paul L Fisher" <bmw@paul-fisher.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] M3 ABS Have you pulled the codes? It might be something completely different. Paul L Fisher 2000 540i 6 E39 M62 TU Titanium Silver Metallic 2000 M Roadster E36/7 S52 Cosmos Black Metallic 1989 325ix E30 M20 Cinnabar Red Elkhorn, WI. -----Original Message----- From: Jason Lombard [mailto:jrlombard@yahoo.com] Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2006 10:36 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] M3 ABS Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2006 20:35:14 -0700 (PDT) From: Jason Lombard <jrlombard@yahoo.com> Subject: M3 ABS First off, I apologize for the cross post to those of you that are on several lists. I'm getting an ASC/ABS light error on an intermittent basis--and replacing the soldered connections is the only fix to my knowledge (short of buying a new pump at $1000-$1400, depending on who you talk to). I was wondering if anyone had converted their E36 M3 to a race car and/or had one of these laying around. I want to do the repair on a unit out of the car and swap with the unit in the car all in one shot to minimize down time. Thanks. Jason Lombard '96 M3 Dakar/Black (719) 439-1055 -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.405 / Virus Database: 268.11.5/425 - Release Date: 8/22/2006
-------------------- 10 --------------------
#10. Re: control arm replacement - from scampbel_imap
Top
Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2006 10:58:31 -0400 From: scampbel_imap <scampbel@mitre.org> Subject: Re: control arm replacement I am going to replace the front control arms and shocks on my 97 m3 tomorrow. With respect to positioning the rear bushings on the arms, is there any reason that I cannot use a piece of rope to hold the arm in the correct or "loaded" position while the lubricant dries? The shocks are being replaced anyway so putting the arms back in without the shocks and springs isn't any more work. Steve Campbell