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#1. wheel studs - from Richard Sperry
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Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2006 08:43:37 -0400 From: "Richard Sperry" <richardsperry@comcast.net> Subject: wheel studs Antiseize on the threads, red locktite on the on the threads?
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#2. Re: Question about wheel studs - from Stan Shaw
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Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2006 08:44:50 -0400 From: "Stan Shaw" <Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net> Subject: Re: Question about wheel studs Wouldn't use of anti-seize be better than WD40, and prevent this problem? Regards, Stan Shaw Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net Phone: (413) 599-0399 Fax: (413) 599-0421 Excell.Net Owner/Operator http://www.Excell.Net/ 928 Owners Club President http://www.928OC.org/ 928Racing.net Team Member http://www.928Racing.net/ "Liberty once lost is lost forever." - John Adams
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#3. Re: [e36m3] Re: [E36M3] Harbor Freight Racing Jack - from mdriver13@aol.com
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Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2006 08:47:54 -0400 From: mdriver13@aol.com Subject: Re: [e36m3] Re: [E36M3] Harbor Freight Racing Jack That's why I own three! In my opinion they are disposable - just easy on the back ;-)) regards, Bob Gill 97 ///M3 coupe (sponsored by WCC & JT-Designs) Philly Region SCCA 2005 Philly Region BSP Champion -----Original Message----- From: m3driver@iname.com To: e36m3@bmw-m.net Sent: Tue, 29 Aug 2006 12:55 AM Subject: RE: [e36m3] Re: [E36M3] Harbor Freight Racing Jack Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2006 21:47:12 -0700 From: "Marco" <m3driver@iname.com> Subject: RE: [e36m3] Re: [E36M3] Harbor Freight Racing Jack I'll agree with that. Marco -----Original Message----- From: Dave Thomas [mailto:dave@sasdatalink.com] Sent: Monday, August 28, 2006 9:46 PM To: E36M3 Subject: Re: [e36m3] Re: [E36M3] Harbor Freight Racing Jack Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2006 21:41:34 -0700 From: Dave Thomas <dave@sasdatalink.com> Subject: Re: [e36m3] Re: [E36M3] Harbor Freight Racing Jack On Monday 28 August 2006 9:35 pm, Marco wrote: > I nice 30+lb "racing" jack for jacking the car at the track and using some > decent jackstands is way easier on my back than deadlifting the 90+lb floor > jack I use at home. Fair enough...I am not saying it does not have a use...but I am sure you also purchased the jack and knew exactly what you were buying. I get the impression that a lot of people don't (like the people that always ask if these are good jacks). Most people have no use for saving weight on a jack. Dave ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm ************************************************* ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm ************************************************* ________________________________________________________________________ Check out AOL.com today. Breaking news, video search, pictures, email and IM. All on demand. Always Free.
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#4. RE: Alternator Questions - from Don Eilenberger
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Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2006 09:26:14 -0400 From: Don Eilenberger <deilenberger@yahoo.com> Subject: RE: Alternator Questions At 08:25 AM 8/29/2006, Kim wrote: >I got pulleys from local parts guy on Saturday. Removed mine and they >were dry, making lots of noise when spun by hand. There are seals on >both sides of the bearing to retain grease and keep them clean. I used a >detail type pick to remove the seals. I removed the front seal on one >and both on the other. They were both dry. I cleaned them with brake >cleaner and repacked them with silicon grease (thanks for the tip!). >I'll see tonight if they make noise, and in a few days if they are going >to last. Just a FWIW - silicon is a crystal mineral that semiconductors are grown on - it would make a very poor grease. If you used silicone grease (an entirely different thing - also used to make breast implants that resulted in a lot of lawsuits) - this isn't really a good thing. Silicone grease - even though it's called a grease is not a particularly good lubricant, especially for metal to metal contact. It will lubricate rubber to metal (it's primary use) in situations where a regular grease won't hold up.. but since it isn't recommended for use in bearings. If it was me - I'd plan on replacing these bearings in the very near future. YMMV and all that.. >KLBurgess - new front wheel bearings, control arms, bushings, tie rods, >differential fluid, F&R brakes, rebuilt calipers...and idler pulley >rebuild. Busy weekend!!!! Don Eilenberger, AKA SquidBOOF, Spring Lk Hts, NJ deilenberger@verizon.net NJ Shore BMW Riders web page: http://www.njsbmwr.org/ Moderator - BMW E39 Enthusiasts: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bmwe39 "One should do the stuff that makes you smile" - Ulf Bertilsson Hence BMWs: 2002 M3 convertible, 2003 5-touring, 1987 K75S, 2004 R1150RS Join the BMW-Car Club of America: https://www.bmwcca.org/members/am/template.cfm?section=On_Line_Join&template=/bmwcca/custompages/join/joinsection.cfm&ref_id=104316
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#5. Re: Question about wheel studs - from Neil Maller
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Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2006 10:27:12 -0400 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Question about wheel studs on 8/29/06 8:25 AM, "Dave Arnold" <air2daa@insightbb.com> wrote: > Recently though I've been having some problems with the lug nut galling up on > the stud itself and both coming all of the way out fused together. I've been using studs for several years, first an inexpensive full thread version, now the bullet-nose racing style. I've occasionally started to cross-thread a nut using the impact gun, but always caught it in time. In my opinion it pays to get a half turn of engagement by hand before gunning them on. I recently replaced all my studs due to needing wheel spacers to clear the StopTechs. I had originally installed them with high strength Loctite after cleaning the threaded holes in the hub using alcohol on a Q-Tip, double-nutting and then torquing them down hard onto the shoulder. I don't think that an Allen key in the hex recess, if your studs have that, allows enough torque to seat them securely. Let me tell you, mine weren't easy to get out - I had to put a torch onto several of them to break the Loctite bond. I've never had a stud come out otherwise, although I do take a couple of spares to the track just in case. I wouldn't use WD-40 or any other liquid on the studs since dirt will stick to it. (Besides, WD-40 isn't much of a lubricant.) If you think some lube might help you might try the dry graphite sold for locks, and then back off your tightening torque to compensate. In any case 90 ft-lb seems pretty high to me; most people's tightening torque seems to be in the 72-80 ft-lb area - dissenting opinions on that? Neil Fort Wayne, IN 96 M3 - Bastard child 03 525iT - Sterling Grey Metallic 05 Mini - Cooper S with LSD
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#6. Stripped Spark Plug Thread - from Stan Shaw
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Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2006 13:39:44 -0400 From: "Stan Shaw" <Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net> Subject: Stripped Spark Plug Thread Yesterday my '96 M3 started to miss. I found that one of the spark plugs was out and a coil pack was damaged. Since I have seen plugs back out, and the threads remain undamaged, I hoped for the best and ordered replacement parts. Today I find the threads must be stripped as the plug will not thread in. So my first thought is to try and run a tap into the hole while hoping nothing (or very little) falls into the combustion chamber. Then I will use vacuum to pull any debris (hopefully). Since the motor has 160k+ miles on it, the chance is worth it. Pulling the head to fix it properly will lead me down the black hole of "while I am in there" tasks. I have a tap and die set, but it doesn't include a 14mm tap (which is what I believe I need). I do know I will need a really long tap to have any chance of getting to the spark plug hole though. So, I am looking for tool suggestions. Thanks! Regards, Stan Shaw Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net Phone: (413) 599-0399 Fax: (413) 599-0421 Excell.Net Owner/Operator http://www.Excell.Net/ 928 Owners Club President http://www.928OC.org/ 928Racing.net Team Member http://www.928Racing.net/ "Liberty once lost is lost forever." - John Adams
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#7. RE: [e36m3] [E36M3] Stripped Spark Plug Thread - from Marco
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Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2006 10:51:26 -0700 From: "Marco" <m3driver@iname.com> Subject: RE: [e36m3] [E36M3] Stripped Spark Plug Thread http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/hel5334-14.html I've never used one. I just know they exist. Marco -----Original Message----- From: Stan Shaw [mailto:Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net] Sent: Tuesday, August 29, 2006 10:46 AM To: E36M3 Subject: [e36m3] [E36M3] Stripped Spark Plug Thread Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2006 13:39:44 -0400 From: "Stan Shaw" <Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net> Subject: Stripped Spark Plug Thread Yesterday my '96 M3 started to miss. I found that one of the spark plugs was out and a coil pack was damaged. Since I have seen plugs back out, and the threads remain undamaged, I hoped for the best and ordered replacement parts. Today I find the threads must be stripped as the plug will not thread in. So my first thought is to try and run a tap into the hole while hoping nothing (or very little) falls into the combustion chamber. Then I will use vacuum to pull any debris (hopefully). Since the motor has 160k+ miles on it, the chance is worth it. Pulling the head to fix it properly will lead me down the black hole of "while I am in there" tasks. I have a tap and die set, but it doesn't include a 14mm tap (which is what I believe I need). I do know I will need a really long tap to have any chance of getting to the spark plug hole though. So, I am looking for tool suggestions. Thanks! Regards, Stan Shaw Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net Phone: (413) 599-0399 Fax: (413) 599-0421 Excell.Net Owner/Operator http://www.Excell.Net/ 928 Owners Club President http://www.928OC.org/ 928Racing.net Team Member http://www.928Racing.net/ "Liberty once lost is lost forever." - John Adams ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Stripped Spark Plug Thread - from Chester Wong
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Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2006 11:06:34 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Stripped Spark Plug Thread I'd pull the head, if I were you, and make a promise to yourself that that is all you will be doing! =P Well, a new head gasket, of course... Are you sure the vacuuming will get out everything that falls? If it doesn't, what happens to the aluminum shavings? Chester --- Stan Shaw <Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net> wrote: > Yesterday my '96 M3 started to miss. I found that one of the spark plugs > was out and a coil pack was damaged. Since I have seen plugs back out, and > the threads remain undamaged, I hoped for the best and ordered replacement > parts. > > Today I find the threads must be stripped as the plug will not thread in. > So my first thought is to try and run a tap into the hole while hoping > nothing (or very little) falls into the combustion chamber. Then I will use > vacuum to pull any debris (hopefully). Since the motor has 160k+ miles on > it, the chance is worth it. Pulling the head to fix it properly will lead > me down the black hole of "while I am in there" tasks.
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#9. RE: [e36m3] [E36M3] Stripped Spark Plug Thread - from Rex Tener
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Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2006 11:09:19 -0700 From: Rex Tener <rex_tener@yahoo.com> Subject: RE: [e36m3] [E36M3] Stripped Spark Plug Thread At 10:55 AM 8/29/2006, Marco wrote: >Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2006 10:51:26 -0700 >From: "Marco" <m3driver@iname.com> >Subject: RE: [e36m3] [E36M3] Stripped Spark Plug Thread > >http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/hel5334-14.html > >I've never used one. I just know they exist. I used a TimeSert to repair the dealer stripped oil pan threads on my M Coupe. <http://www.timesert.com/> For sparkplugs: <http://www.timesert.com/html/sparkplug.html> In theory if you put a thick grease in the flutes of the reamer and tap, not too many chips will fall into the motor. Luckily for the M Coupe, it has a large access cover next to the drain plug to get the chips out. Rex
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#10. RE: [E36M3] Stripped Spark Plug Thread - from Stan Shaw
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Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2006 14:12:27 -0400 From: "Stan Shaw" <Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Stripped Spark Plug Thread Um, the aluminum shavings score the cylinder of course. Problem is that last year I acquired all the tools to do all the tensioner work, etc. and have yet to do it. So logically if I can't repair this in place, it will be a motor rebuild project anyways. And of course I already have a number of 928 projects in the works. Not sure I am ready to accept the Suburban as my daily driver before winter.... Regards, Stan Shaw Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net Phone: (413) 599-0399 Fax: (413) 599-0421 Excell.Net Owner/Operator http://www.Excell.Net/ 928 Owners Club President http://www.928OC.org/ 928Racing.net Team Member http://www.928Racing.net/ "Liberty once lost is lost forever." - John Adams