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#1. HVAC fan not working - from Abe Marmer
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Date: Tue, 05 Sep 2006 21:52:54 -0400 From: Abe Marmer <amarmer@adelphia.net> Subject: HVAC fan not working I had the same thing happened to me, luckily I was on my way home from the office and not a 200+ mile roadtrip! I had the same symptoms and yes it was that overpriced ($100) final stage unit that Jim mentioned. Not too hard to replace, always a treat working in the driver side footwell..... probably want to double check but this looks like the thing 64116929540 from http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=BG93&mospid=47488&btnr=64_0556&hg=64&fg=40 HTH > > -------------------- 6 -------------------- > Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2006 11:47:53 -0400 > From: "K.C. Boyce" <k_boyce@e30eta.com> > Subject: HVAC fan not working > > Gruppe, > > > > I suffered a drive from NC to GA this weekend with no working HVAC fan. > I've done some playing around and wanted to get the group's wisdom before > buying parts. > > > > - Doesn't seem to be the classic failing control unit. The display still > works correctly and the fan speed indicator goes up and down depending on > how hot it is. > > - Unplugged the control unit this morning and got.nothing. Supposedly > disconnecting the control unit is supposed to make the fan default to high > speed. > > > > So.I'm thinking the issue is with the resistor pack. Sound good? > > > > One more curious thing is that the failure happened after I had shut off the > climate control for a while (had the windows open in the mountains). This > had happened once before but the problem fixed itself after turning the car > off and back on again. Any thoughts on causation/correlation here? Or is > it just random coincidence? > > > > TIA, > > > > K.C. Boyce > > '97 M3/4 > > > > > > > -------------------- 7 -------------------- > Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2006 10:07:18 -0700 (PDT) > From: "Jim Bassett" <jim@jimbassett.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] HVAC fan not working > > On Tue, September 5, 2006 8:55 am, K.C. Boyce said: > >> So.I'm thinking the issue is with the resistor pack. Sound good? >> > > My bet's on the final stage unit - they seem to be prone to failure. > > Jim Bassett > > >
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#2. Jacking plate - from Rich Dorffer
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Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2006 22:01:14 -0400 From: "Rich Dorffer" <E36M3Digest@gmail.com> Subject: Jacking plate > > From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> > Subject: Re: Jacking plate > > on 9/1/06 3:25 PM, "Dave DeBuhr" <debuhr@comcast.net> wrote: > > > The diff case is strong as hell. You can jack from that. Just don't have > > contact where the diff cover interfaces the case and your good to go. > > You absolutely do NOT want to do that. The diff and its cover mount to the > rear subframe via rubber bushings, two on the cover and one on the case > itself. These bushings are already prone to tearing, and supporting half > the weight > of the car on them sure isn't going to help. I don't completely agree, I have never experienced a problem and I know that Brett Anderson also does the same without an issue and posted as much on the UUC Digest before. Jack on the rear subframe loop under the diff instead. I agree that is a better choice if reachable. Regards, Rich
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Jacking plate - from Dave Thomas
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Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2006 20:00:29 -0700 From: Dave Thomas <dave@sasdatalink.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Jacking plate On Tuesday 05 September 2006 7:05 pm, Rich Dorffer wrote: > I don't completely agree, I have never experienced a problem and I know > that Brett Anderson also does the same without an issue and posted as much > on the UUC Digest before. I also have never had an issue with using the diff as a jack point. If the bushings are shot you could have issues...but if not...you wont. I am not saying its perfect or 'the best' but I have never had an issue and have been jacking up BMW's by the differential for quite some time. Dave
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#4. WTB E36 Tweeter Speakers - from Chip E.
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Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2006 21:49:38 -0700 (PDT) From: "Chip E." <chip4bmw@yahoo.com> Subject: WTB E36 Tweeter Speakers OK, I know SOMEBODY has a set of blown tweeters sitting around...or maybe just a set you've replaced. My M3 purchased in Texas has tweeters that are dry rotted. The surround area (area that surrounds the speaker grill that is) just keeps coming apart. I've relpaced the speakers with MB Quart components, but still need the houseing. So if anybody has a pair for a reasonable price, please drop me a line - chip4bmw@yahoo.com OH....I'd prefer black ones, but will consider the other two colors. Thanks, - chip
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#5. Re: RTAB limiter kits - from kim.burgess@att.net
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Date: Wed, 06 Sep 2006 05:25:41 +0000 From: kim.burgess@att.net Subject: Re: RTAB limiter kits -------------------- 10 -------------------- Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2006 18:24:31 -0700 From: "Brian Ruiz" <eurowerke@gmail.com> Subject: RTAB limiter kits Hey all, I think it's time to replace the RTABs in the M3, as I do not believe they have ever been changed, and the car is at 102k now. >> Yep these are (over)due at this point. I also got a weird noise a couple months back when I would back up quickly...i.e. there was a clicking noise as I would back up which wouldn't occur when I would drive forward. There's also some very mild vibrations and such that I am getting occasionally. >> Hummmm. Sounds like Axle CV joints or drive shaft U-Joints. My question was regarding the trailing arm bushing limiter kits sold by the various retailers. I had purchased the Turner aluminum bushing limiter kit back when I had my E36 325 but I never got around to installing it before I lost the car. I was wondering, however, if the newer delrin versions of the limiter kits would be better suited for a mainly hard-driven street car (with perhaps a couple DEs in the future), or if there is really no difference between the aluminum Turner version and the various delrin versions in either durability or suitability. Thanks, Brian build 8/95 >> As I recall, Ground Control first offered RTAB Toe Limit Shims in Delrin(TM). There is a difference between them and the Turner pieces. The Turner pieces mount to the Body Bracket or 'cassette' and are thin enough to leave a gap between the RTABushing the the Toe Limiter. The GC Delrin pieces fill all of the space between the Body Bracket the the RTABushing - net fit - though are not afixed to the 'cassette'. Turners are $90 and GCs are $60. KLBurgess
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#6. Re: [E36M3] HVAC fan not working - from mdriver13@aol.com
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Date: Wed, 06 Sep 2006 08:37:59 -0400 From: mdriver13@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] HVAC fan not working Yep...had this resistor replaced by the Dealer a couple of years ago. Everything fine since. If it makes you feel better my mechanic said this resistor was redesigned so that it dissipates heat better (excess heat causes this resistor to fail). Buy it, replace it and you should be in good shape. regards, Bob Gill 97 ///M3 coupe Philly Region SCCA 2005 Philly Region BSP Champion Sponsored by WCC, JT-Designs, & Rogue Engineering ________________________________________________________________________ Check out AOL.com today. Breaking news, video search, pictures, email and IM. All on demand. Always Free.
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#7. RE: [E36M3] Electrical schematic for horn - from Goss, Patrick - PA
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Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2006 08:16:47 -0500 From: "Goss, Patrick - PA" <Patrick.Goss@GMACM.COM> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Electrical schematic for horn Sometimes a strong hit with the hand on the horn wheel will loosen the connector, at least on the all black style wheels. It's the easiest thing to check, so I vote for looking there first. I think it's just a couple of screws... Patrick 97 M3/4 -----Original Message----- From: John [mailto:m3john@yahoo.com] Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2006 5:56 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] Electrical schematic for horn Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2006 14:49:34 -0700 (PDT) From: John <m3john@yahoo.com> Subject: Electrical schematic for horn Hello All, I installed my microfilter this weekend and had to take the glove box out. Today during lunch this one idiot was rushing to find a parking space and rear-ended me (well a small bump). I saw it coming and try to honk the horn but to my surprise the horn doesn't work. I must have loosen some electrical connections in the back of the glove box while trying to install the microfilter for a 98 E36 M3. Does anyone have a schematic/electrical layout of the horn connection that can help me? I hate to dis-assembly the glove box and then still cannot find the problem. TIA -John 98 M3 __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#8. Follow-Up HVAC fan STILL not working - from K.C. Boyce
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Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2006 11:08:14 -0400 From: "K.C. Boyce" <k_boyce@e30eta.com> Subject: Follow-Up HVAC fan STILL not working Gruppe, I got an overwhelming response that, as I thought, my issue was probably with the final stage unit not working. I got the part (yes, overpriced at $100 w/ discount) at the dealer this morning, installed it, and...still no fan. I played around a bit with my DVM, but couldn't really assess anything since I don't have a pinout or idea of what voltages or resistances should be. The resistance varied quite a bit between the old and the new units...hopefully that is telling me that the old one was gone anyway (but, again, who knows unless anyone can send me specs!). Any clues on where to check next? Of interest, the old final state unit was a Behr, the new one a Bosch. The Behr had a much more substantial heat sink (the entire piece, apart from the back where the electrical connector is, was made of steel). The Bosch only had "fingers" on the front (part that faces the passenger side of the heater box) and they were of aluminum. They were more numerous than the ones on the Behr unit, though... Anyway, insight and troubleshooting thoughts are much appreciated. I'm really starting to hate my M3's HVAC system (been chasing a clicking sound like playing cards in bicycle spokes for a while too - something's interfering with the squirrel cage). KC Boyce '97 M3/4
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#9. RE: [E36M3] Electrical schematic for horn - from John
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Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2006 09:39:31 -0700 (PDT) From: John <m3john@yahoo.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Electrical schematic for horn Hi Patrick, I have the all black style wheels. Where on the wheel should I look? BTW, I did check the fuse #8 (15amp) for the horn and it is good. So there is some connections loose somewhere. TIA, -John --- "Goss, Patrick - PA" <Patrick.Goss@GMACM.COM> wrote: > Sometimes a strong hit with the hand on the horn > wheel will loosen the > connector, at least on the all black style wheels. > It's the easiest > thing to check, so I vote for looking there first. > I think it's just a > couple of screws... > > Patrick > 97 M3/4 > > -----Original Message----- > From: John [mailto:m3john@yahoo.com] > Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2006 5:56 PM > To: E36M3 > Subject: [E36M3] Electrical schematic for horn > > Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2006 14:49:34 -0700 (PDT) > From: John <m3john@yahoo.com> > Subject: Electrical schematic for horn > > Hello All, > > I installed my microfilter this weekend and had to > take the glove box out. > > Today during lunch this one idiot was rushing to > find > a parking space and rear-ended me (well a small > bump). > I saw it coming and try to honk the horn but to my > surprise the horn doesn't work. > > I must have loosen some electrical connections in > the > back of the glove box while trying to install the > microfilter for a 98 E36 M3. > > Does anyone have a schematic/electrical layout of > the > horn connection that can help me? I hate to > dis-assembly the glove box and then still cannot > find > the problem. > > TIA > -John > 98 M3 > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam > protection around > http://mail.yahoo.com > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our > sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance > http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. > http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com
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#10. RE: [E36M3] Electrical schematic for horn - from Goss, Patrick - PA
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Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2006 11:48:32 -0500 From: "Goss, Patrick - PA" <Patrick.Goss@GMACM.COM> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Electrical schematic for horn IIRC You can't miss it once you remove the horn button cover/airbag. Do you have a Bentley manual? Perhaps try http://www.realoem.com/bmw/for a pic to get a visual understanding. Patrick -----Original Message----- From: John [mailto:m3john@yahoo.com] Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2006 12:40 PM To: Goss, Patrick - PA; E36M3 Subject: RE: [E36M3] Electrical schematic for horn Hi Patrick, I have the all black style wheels. Where on the wheel should I look? BTW, I did check the fuse #8 (15amp) for the horn and it is good. So there is some connections loose somewhere. TIA, -John --- "Goss, Patrick - PA" <Patrick.Goss@GMACM.COM> wrote: > Sometimes a strong hit with the hand on the horn > wheel will loosen the > connector, at least on the all black style wheels. > It's the easiest > thing to check, so I vote for looking there first. > I think it's just a > couple of screws... > > Patrick > 97 M3/4 > > -----Original Message----- > From: John [mailto:m3john@yahoo.com] > Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2006 5:56 PM > To: E36M3 > Subject: [E36M3] Electrical schematic for horn > > Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2006 14:49:34 -0700 (PDT) > From: John <m3john@yahoo.com> > Subject: Electrical schematic for horn > > Hello All, > > I installed my microfilter this weekend and had to > take the glove box out. > > Today during lunch this one idiot was rushing to > find > a parking space and rear-ended me (well a small > bump). > I saw it coming and try to honk the horn but to my > surprise the horn doesn't work. > > I must have loosen some electrical connections in > the > back of the glove box while trying to install the > microfilter for a 98 E36 M3. > > Does anyone have a schematic/electrical layout of > the > horn connection that can help me? I hate to > dis-assembly the glove box and then still cannot > find > the problem. > > TIA > -John > 98 M3 > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam > protection around > http://mail.yahoo.com > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our > sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance > http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. > http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com