E36M3 #4940

Thursday, September 07, 2006 05:55:39

This digest contains the following messages:

#1. Re: [E36M3] Re: RTAB limiter kits - from Richard Harden
#2. p/n needed for foam cover in front of DME - from Kelvin
#3. Re: [E36M3] p/n needed for foam cover in front of DME - from Kelvin
#4. Thunderhill 9/15 - from Kelvin
#5. Vanos Mechanically Jammed - from Jon@treehouseracing.com
#6. Re: [E36M3] Thunderhill 9/15 - from Jeff Conner
#7. RE: [e36m3] Re: [E36M3] p/n needed for foam cover in front of DME - from Marco
#8. RE: [E36M3] Raybestos ST-43??? - from Matthew Teel
#9. Re: [E36M3] Thunderhill 9/15 - from Jay Hudson
#10. Re: [E36M3] Vanos Mechanically Jammed - from Chester Wong

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#1. Re: [E36M3] Re: RTAB limiter kits - from Richard Harden
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Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2006 17:50:52 -0400 From: "Richard Harden" <roguem3@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: RTAB limiter kits Is there any noticeable difference (in feel) between the two kits? Or does each do the job equally well? Not to go too OT, but what are all of your opinions on RTABs that are urethane, for a street driven car that sees some aggressive driving? I was looking at the Rogue RTABs, but am not sure if thats the route I want to go: http://www.rogueengineering.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=RE&Product_Code=RE_RTAB Thanks, Richard (95 M3) On 9/6/06, kim.burgess@att.net <kim.burgess@att.net> wrote: > > Date: Wed, 06 Sep 2006 05:25:41 +0000 > From: kim.burgess@att.net > Subject: Re: RTAB limiter kits > > >> As I recall, Ground Control first offered RTAB Toe Limit Shims in > Delrin(TM). There is a difference between them and the Turner pieces. The > Turner pieces mount to the Body Bracket or 'cassette' and are thin enough to > leave a gap between the RTABushing the the Toe Limiter. The GC Delrin pieces > fill all of the space between the Body Bracket the the RTABushing - net fit > - though are not afixed to the 'cassette'. > Turners are $90 and GCs are $60. > > KLBurgess > >

Reply to: Richard Harden

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#2. p/n needed for foam cover in front of DME - from Kelvin
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Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2006 20:58:14 From: Kelvin <mpower@obikwan.com> Subject: p/n needed for foam cover in front of DME All, I was trying to figure out which DME I had. (7/94 build date -- but wanted to be 100% sure) Yup, I got the 506 DME. Anyhow, does anyone have the p/n for the foam cover in the engine bay in front of the DME? Over the years the heat has gotten to mine, and it's very very very brittle! I think it's about to turn into dust soon! Also, bmw didn't design the location very well! There's a ton of dust and leaves, etc in there! Thanks!

Reply to: Kelvin

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#3. Re: [E36M3] p/n needed for foam cover in front of DME - from Kelvin
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Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2006 21:7:45 From: Kelvin <mpower@obikwan.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] p/n needed for foam cover in front of DME I forgot to mention, I believe it's part #11 in this diagram. http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=BF93&mospid=47486&btnr=12_04 96&hg=12&fg=10 mpower@obikwan.com wrote: > Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2006 20:58:14 > From: Kelvin <mpower@obikwan.com> > Subject: p/n needed for foam cover in front of DME > > All, > I was trying to figure out which DME I had. (7/94 build date -- but > wanted to be 100% sure) Yup, I got the 506 DME. > > Anyhow, does anyone have the p/n for the foam cover in the engine bay in > front of the DME? Over the years the heat has gotten to mine, and it's > very very very brittle! I think it's about to turn into dust soon! > > Also, bmw didn't design the location very well! There's a ton of dust and > leaves, etc in there! > > Thanks! > >

Reply to: Kelvin

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#4. Thunderhill 9/15 - from Kelvin
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Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2006 21:22:59 From: Kelvin <mpower@obikwan.com> Subject: Thunderhill 9/15 All, I will be going up to Thunderhill on 9/15 for a HPDE. A couple of questions as I have not run this car on the track before. What is the recommended "tire pressure" to start off with? These will be 235/40-17 on the 17x7.5" rims on Pilot Sports I. What should I start off at and play around with? Also, on the tech sheet, it says that the tires cannot be at or below the wearbars. Well, I'm probably 1/16 of an inch from the wear bar. Do you think that will be ok? If not, and I got new tires, how many miles do I need to put on them before I can track it and not chunk them up? I recall in the past that people said that it was "recommended" to overfill the oil by 1-quart. Is this still acceptable or recommended? I don't want the crank foaming the oil up! Anyone else attending? Thanks! -kelvin

Reply to: Kelvin

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#5. Vanos Mechanically Jammed - from Jon@treehouseracing.com
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Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2006 23:31:06 -0500 From: "Jon@treehouseracing.com" <jon@treehouseracing.com> Subject: Vanos Mechanically Jammed Anyone ever get this error code? I have a 96 328i with this error code and of course a CE light. Have changed out complete vanos unit with good known working one. same error. Have changed out just solenoid, same error. Have poured over vanos installation and cam timing to check for accurate and correct installation, all seems well, still giving error. Car runs wonderfully, no other codes. In just the last year we've done close to 50 jobs (cams, heads, valve jobs, etc) and have never seen this problem. I am wondering if it's actually something else. I can't bear to take off the vanos AGAIN. Anyone have any clues? Thanks, Jon ______________________________________________ Jon Siccardi - DM #053 #052- Retired TreehouseRacing.com M50conversion.com 615.333.9118 ______________________________________________

Reply to: Jon@treehouseracing.com

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#6. Re: [E36M3] Thunderhill 9/15 - from Jeff Conner
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Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2006 21:43:25 -0700 (PDT) From: Jeff Conner <jeff.conner@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Thunderhill 9/15 Kelvin, Well, I was at Thunderhill just two weekends ago and one Mark Dadgar told me - when I asked him the same question - that I should go up 2 psi from my street settings. When I mentioned to him that my street settings were pretty aggressive (40f/38r) he replied "yeah, aboout 2psi would do it" So, I would give you this opinion. Don't futz too much with the way you have the car set up. I think that the additional pressure in the tires will give your sidewalls a little stiffening that they need and keep the tires from rolling over easily. For the tread depth, if it's even, you should be okay, but don't quote me on that.Can't tell you about new tires, because I went there with the intention of shredding my pilot sports - so I can move on to Falken Aziens Rt 615s - but I only managed to do serious wearing to the outside edge of my right front tire. Turn two is a killer on that tire. The oil is one of those personal issues. I would make darn sure that it's at least full before you start your laps, and then check it between your sessions. I actually burned about 1/2 quart during the weekend I was there. I'll be back at thunderhill this year, but not for that event...Have a blast! The track is great, and if you get turn 8 figured out, lemme know :-) -jeff 98///Sedan Kelvin <mpower@obikwan.com> wrote: Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2006 21:22:59 From: Kelvin Subject: Thunderhill 9/15 All, I will be going up to Thunderhill on 9/15 for a HPDE. A couple of questions as I have not run this car on the track before. What is the recommended "tire pressure" to start off with? These will be 235/40-17 on the 17x7.5" rims on Pilot Sports I. What should I start off at and play around with? Also, on the tech sheet, it says that the tires cannot be at or below the wearbars. Well, I'm probably 1/16 of an inch from the wear bar. Do you think that will be ok? If not, and I got new tires, how many miles do I need to put on them before I can track it and not chunk them up? I recall in the past that people said that it was "recommended" to overfill the oil by 1-quart. Is this still acceptable or recommended? I don't want the crank foaming the oil up! Anyone else attending? Thanks! -kelvin --------------------------------- Talk is cheap. Use Yahoo! Messenger to make PC-to-Phone calls. Great rates starting at 1¢/min.

Reply to: Jeff Conner

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#7. RE: [e36m3] Re: [E36M3] p/n needed for foam cover in front of DME - from Marco
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Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2006 21:53:17 -0700 From: "Marco" <m3driver@iname.com> Subject: RE: [e36m3] Re: [E36M3] p/n needed for foam cover in front of DME Actually I believe it's part 5 on this diagram http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=BF93&mospid=47486&btnr=51_2071 &hg=51&fg=70 Marco -----Original Message----- From: Kelvin [mailto:mpower@obikwan.com] Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2006 9:16 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [e36m3] Re: [E36M3] p/n needed for foam cover in front of DME Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2006 21:7:45 From: Kelvin <mpower@obikwan.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] p/n needed for foam cover in front of DME I forgot to mention, I believe it's part #11 in this diagram. http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=BF93&mospid=47486&btnr=12_04 96&hg=12&fg=10 mpower@obikwan.com wrote: > Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2006 20:58:14 > From: Kelvin <mpower@obikwan.com> > Subject: p/n needed for foam cover in front of DME > > All, > I was trying to figure out which DME I had. (7/94 build date -- but > wanted to be 100% sure) Yup, I got the 506 DME. > > Anyhow, does anyone have the p/n for the foam cover in the engine bay in > front of the DME? Over the years the heat has gotten to mine, and it's > very very very brittle! I think it's about to turn into dust soon! > > Also, bmw didn't design the location very well! There's a ton of dust and > leaves, etc in there! > > Thanks! > > ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************

Reply to: Marco

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#8. RE: [E36M3] Raybestos ST-43??? - from Matthew Teel
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Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2006 21:07:48 -0800 From: "Matthew Teel" <mteel@beluga.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Raybestos ST-43??? I just bought Raybestos for my '93 Caravan with 238K on the clock. They cost $16 or so per axle. That is an appropriate application for Raybestos, not an M3. Matthew '98 M3/4 -----Original Message----- From: William Townsend [mailto:wtownsend@juniper.net] Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2006 12:16 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] Raybestos ST-43??? Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2006 16:06:36 -0400 From: "William Townsend" <wtownsend@juniper.net> Subject: Raybestos ST-43??? More inquiring minds want to know.... Anyone try these pads? Porterfield sells them for the front of the M3 and wondered if there was any experience with them. With PFC, Hawk, and Cobalt hiking prices, it would be nice to find a less expensive alternative! I know, I know, Raybestos make plain old street pads but I guess they make race pads for NASCAR. (and the good thing is the pads are not uni-directional!) --Bill 96 M3 coupe red ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************

Reply to: Matthew Teel

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#9. Re: [E36M3] Thunderhill 9/15 - from Jay Hudson
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Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2006 23:19:14 -0700 From: "Jay Hudson" <jwhud@budget.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Thunderhill 9/15 Around 40psi, hot is a good starting point. I used to run a little less in the rears. Depends. Current tires should be OK for a day. Keep an eye on the edges for cording. I always run an extrat quart. Some will do a half quart. Good luck, be safe and have fun. Jay > Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2006 21:22:59 > From: Kelvin <mpower@obikwan.com> > Subject: Thunderhill 9/15 > > All, > I will be going up to Thunderhill on 9/15 for a HPDE. > > A couple of questions as I have not run this car on the track before. > > What is the recommended "tire pressure" to start off with? These will be > 235/40-17 on the 17x7.5" rims on Pilot Sports I. What should I start off > at and play around with? > > Also, on the tech sheet, it says that the tires cannot be at or below the > wearbars. Well, I'm probably 1/16 of an inch from the wear bar. Do you > think that will be ok? If not, and I got new tires, how many miles do I > need to put on them before I can track it and not chunk them up? > > I recall in the past that people said that it was "recommended" to > overfill the oil by 1-quart. Is this still acceptable or recommended? I > don't want the crank foaming the oil up! > > Anyone else attending? > > Thanks! > -kelvin >

Reply to: Jay Hudson

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#10. Re: [E36M3] Vanos Mechanically Jammed - from Chester Wong
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Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2006 03:50:41 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Vanos Mechanically Jammed I've seen this error code when Wayne first had his cams installed. He had to go back and get it taken out and reinstalled and checked for the error code. Have you pressurized the VANOS and energized the solenoid as a way of testing it when everything is apart? You have to test for proper range of movement, etc. I bet if you do that and it all works out, you won't get the code. Keep in mind that if you follow the TIS exactly, your timing will most likely end up retarded... Chester --- "Jon@treehouseracing.com" <jon@treehouseracing.com> wrote: > Anyone ever get this error code? > > I have a 96 328i with this error code and of course a CE light. Have changed > out complete vanos unit with good known working one. same error. Have changed > out just solenoid, same error. Have poured over vanos installation and cam > timing to check for accurate and correct installation, all seems well, still > giving error. Car runs wonderfully, no other codes. > > In just the last year we've done close to 50 jobs (cams, heads, valve jobs, > etc) and have never seen this problem. I am wondering if it's actually > something else. I can't bear to take off the vanos AGAIN. > > Anyone have any clues?

Reply to: Chester Wong

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