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#1. RE: [E36M3] Yes, oil question again...track use.. - from Paul L Fisher
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Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2006 15:20:03 -0500 From: "Paul L Fisher" <bmw@paul-fisher.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Yes, oil question again...track use.. It seems you don't like the answer but the 'correct' answer is to drain and fill with a higher weight oil. You can mix without any issues, however, you won't get the full benefit. Paul L Fisher 2000 540i 6 E39 M62 TU Titanium Silver Metallic 2000 M Roadster E36/7 S52 Cosmos Black Metallic 1989 325ix E30 M20 Cinnabar Red Elkhorn, WI. -----Original Message----- From: Kelvin [mailto:mpower@obikwan.com] Sent: Wednesday, September 13, 2006 3:17 PM To: E36M3 Subject: Re: [E36M3] Yes, oil question again...track use.. Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2006 13:19:25 -0700 From: Kelvin <mpower@obikwan.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Yes, oil question again...track use.. Ok, some people have told me that 0w-30 would be too thin for track use. Ugh, I just put it in there too! :-$ Since the car still burns oil, and I will need to overfill it by a quart anyhow, can I just throw in some Mobil1 15w-50 in there to even it out somewhat? (hahaha, man I don't think this mixes linearly like octane) Is it even wise to mix different weights of oil? I'm running out to time guys! I'm heading to the track tomorrow! Thanks! -kelvin -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.405 / Virus Database: 268.12.3/446 - Release Date: 9/12/2006
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#2. camber plates: 1 setting for street, 1 setting for autox? - from Adam Lazur
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Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2006 13:20:34 -0700 From: Adam Lazur <adam@lazur.org> Subject: camber plates: 1 setting for street, 1 setting for autox? I'm refreshing the tired stock suspension in my '95 m3 and am doing some upgrading "while I'm in there". I'm getting the motorforce camber plates with the idea that I'll be able to adjust street vs autox settings (I do 1-2 autoxes a month). I believe I can get 2 settings: a good amount of negative camber with a little toe out for autox, and not as aggressive camber with no toe for the street. Does anyone else do this? In my "internet research" I've come across concern about wear from adjusting the plates all the time, but haven't seen anyone definitely say "I did this for a year and wore out my plates b/c of it". -- Adam Lazur
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Angel Eyes and Euro Headlights - from Kelvin
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Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2006 13:37:03 -0700 From: Kelvin <mpower@obikwan.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Angel Eyes and Euro Headlights Bill, Yes the front glass unclips, but that will be a royal PIA for you to do just to swap the city light bulb in. That would require you to remove the whole headlight assembly as there are 2 clips on the bottom as well. I would check by removing the panel/door behind the highbeam and see if you can pull the citylight bulb out that way. The city light socket will come out, it's just "clipped" in there from the back. -kelvin M3 wrote: > Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2006 11:59:55 -0500 > From: M3 <m3@cueframe.us> > Subject: Angel Eyes and Euro Headlights > > Kelvin, > > How do you get to that city light socket to put a bulb in? > > Does the front glass lens unclip? > > Bill > Ft. Worth > > > > > >
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#4. RE: [E36M3] Re: Euro Headlights - from Scott
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Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2006 13:33:19 -0700 From: "Scott" <stiles_s@hotmail.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Re: Euro Headlights The only reference I was pointed to was this on the umnitza website: General Guide: Q: I have wind noise when I drive A: You have installed your headlights too low on the car, the hood has too large of a gap between the top of the light and the bottom. ----- I raised mine twice, and used pieces of a wooden yardstick as a shim while installing, which was roughly 2-3mm thick. I think the Bentley calls for 2mm'ish, IIRC. I still have a bit of a whistle, though I think the remainder is actually coming from the turn signal's seal w/the body. This is another cause that an Umnitza rep mentioned on bimmerforums. -----Original Message----- From: Adam Lazur [mailto:adam@lazur.org] Sent: Wednesday, September 13, 2006 1:17 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] Re: Euro Headlights Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2006 13:13:19 -0700 From: Adam Lazur <adam@lazur.org> Subject: Re: Euro Headlights Scott (stiles_s@hotmail.com) said: > 2) I've probably adjusted the physical position of my headlamps 3 times per > side, and I think I'm finally done now. Why? The bloody dog-whistle sound > which is supposedly caused by lamps that are mounted too low. Both of mine > are perfect in terms of measurement as per the Bentley, but I still get a > bit of whistle. I'm convinced it's coming from the turn signals, but it's > quiet enough now to not worry about it. Hmm, headlight whistle from headlights eh? This is the first I've heard of it. I started getting a whistle/sucking air sound around the time I installed Depos. I thought it was the CAI, which was previously silent. Are there guidelines for a non-whistling headlight install, or anti whistle headlight installation a trial and error kind of thing? -- Adam Lazur ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#5. Re: [E36M3] camber plates: 1 setting for street, 1 setting for autox? - from mdriver13@aol.com
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Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2006 16:47:48 -0400 From: mdriver13@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] camber plates: 1 setting for street, 1 setting for autox? Hi Adam, I have the TC Kline racing camber plates and have been doing this very thing for about two years now. When they're fully out I run -1.8 degrees camber with a slight amount of toe in (street setting). For autox, I slam them fully in to get -3.6 degrees of camber with zero to a little toe out. I have not encountered any problems with these plates. They are high quality and not cheap, but I believe you get what you pay for in most cases. Good luck, Bob Gill 97 ///M3 coupe Philly Region SCCA 2005 Philly Region BSP Champion Sponsored by WCC, JT-Designs, & Rogue Engineering -----Original Message----- From: adam@lazur.org To: e36m3@bmw-m.net Sent: Wed, 13 Sep 2006 4:27 PM Subject: [E36M3] camber plates: 1 setting for street, 1 setting for autox? Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2006 13:20:34 -0700 From: Adam Lazur <adam@lazur.org> Subject: camber plates: 1 setting for street, 1 setting for autox? I'm refreshing the tired stock suspension in my '95 m3 and am doing some upgrading "while I'm in there". I'm getting the motorforce camber plates with the idea that I'll be able to adjust street vs autox settings (I do 1-2 autoxes a month). I believe I can get 2 settings: a good amount of negative camber with a little toe out for autox, and not as aggressive camber with no toe for the street. Does anyone else do this? In my "internet research" I've come across concern about wear from adjusting the plates all the time, but haven't seen anyone definitely say "I did this for a year and wore out my plates b/c of it". -- Adam Lazur ________________________________________________________________________ Check out the new AOL. Most comprehensive set of free safety and security tools, free access to millions of high-quality videos from across the web, free AOL Mail and more.
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#6. Headlights - from Richard Sperry
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Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2006 17:02:06 -0400 From: "Richard Sperry" <richardsperry@comcast.net> Subject: Headlights You could always put some foam insulation on the top of the glass to fill the space to the hood. From an aerodynamic standpoint, you coud get some of those small clear plastic "feet" that are used on the bottom of things so it won't scratch the furnature. They would break up the airflow.
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#7. Yes, oil question again...track use.. - from Rich Dorffer
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Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2006 17:07:13 -0400 From: "Rich Dorffer" <E36M3Digest@gmail.com> Subject: Yes, oil question again...track use.. > > -----Original Message----- > From: Kelvin [mailto:mpower@obikwan.com] > > Ok folks, I got another oil question. I know that this might ignite a > war and all, but.... > > I'm going to be running thunderhill this coming friday. Is it ok for me > to run 0w-30 German Castrol in my car? That is what is currently in my > car. (changed about 1k miles ago). Previous owner ran 20w-50 and it > burned oil like a mofo! Burning seems to be A LOT better now. (would > suck to drain this oil and have to put another weight in) > From: "Paul L Fisher" bmw@paul-fisher.com > > I personally wouldn't run any xW-30 oil ever in any BMW. > > Is the 0W-30 synthetic at least? If not, drain it and put some synthetic > in. Yes, GC 0W30 is synthetic, matter of fact, it is a pretty special 0W30 with a PAO base stock combined with special polymer esters derived from PAO and no viscosity improvers. So, it isn't anything remotely like a hydrocracked "synthetic". It is also one of the most shear stable oils ever (with a loft 179 viscosity index) so it isn't going to turn into "hamster p*ss" like others believe. (Hi Neil) Also, GC 0W30 is on the heavier side of a 30 weight with a viscosity of 12.1cSt @100°C (212°F). Here is an approximation of the viscosities for GC 0W30, Mobil 1 0W40 and Mobil 1 EP 15W50 at track temps (in Celsius): GC M1 M1 0W30 0W40 15W50 100 - 12.1 cst 14.3 cst 18.0 cst 110 - 9.9 cst 11.7 cst 14.3 cst 120 - 8.3 cst 9.7 cst 11.6 cst 130 - 7.0 cst 8.2 cst 9.5 cst 140 - 6.0 cst 7.0 cst 8.0 cst 150 - 5.2 cst 6.0 cst 6.8 cst So, the GC 0W30 is thinner than the other two, but the difference isn't nearly as great as some believe or claim and the GC is more shear stable and has a higher flash point In addition, the GC is probably thicker than these calculations compared to the other two due to the lack of viscosity improvers. > From: "Scott" stiles_s@hotmail.com > > A useful litmus test I use for oil is whether or not it's ACEA A3 rated. > If > not, IMHO, it doesn't belong in our engines. There are many synthetics > that > aren't. I have Mercedes bulletin somewhere that lists supported and > unsupported oils. They have a similar basic oil requirement to our cars, > and > there are a few synthetics that they specifically recommend avoiding. I'll > dig it up and send it. GC is ACEA A3/B3 B4 rated as well as BMW LL-01 and MB 229.1 and 229.3. As many of you know, ACEA A3 and B3 are "high performance" ratings for higher protection (as opposed to energy conservation ratings like A1). GC 0W30, Mobil 1 0W40 and Mobil 1 EP 15W50 all meet ACEA A3/B3 B4, I believe only GC 0W30 and Mobil 1 0W40 meet BMW LL-01. Regards, Rich
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#8. Re: [E36M3] camber plates: 1 setting for street, 1 setting for autox? - from Gus Iverson
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Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2006 14:36:42 -0700 From: "Gus Iverson" <gus.iverson@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] camber plates: 1 setting for street, 1 setting for autox? For the record, I'm doing the same thing with the same parts. Works great, less filling. On 9/13/06, mdriver13@aol.com <mdriver13@aol.com> wrote: > Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2006 16:47:48 -0400 > From: mdriver13@aol.com > Subject: Re: [E36M3] camber plates: 1 setting for street, 1 setting for autox? > > Hi Adam, > > I have the TC Kline racing camber plates and have been doing this very thing for about two years now. When they're fully out I run -1.8 degrees camber with a slight amount of toe in (street setting). For autox, I slam them fully in to get -3.6 degrees of camber with zero to a little toe out. I have not encountered any problems with these plates. They are high quality and not cheap, but I believe you get what you pay for in most cases. > > Good luck, > > Bob Gill > 97 ///M3 coupe > Philly Region SCCA > 2005 Philly Region BSP Champion > Sponsored by WCC, JT-Designs, & Rogue Engineering > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: adam@lazur.org > To: e36m3@bmw-m.net > Sent: Wed, 13 Sep 2006 4:27 PM > Subject: [E36M3] camber plates: 1 setting for street, 1 setting for autox? > > > Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2006 13:20:34 -0700 > From: Adam Lazur <adam@lazur.org> > Subject: camber plates: 1 setting for street, 1 setting for autox? > > I'm refreshing the tired stock suspension in my '95 m3 and am doing some > upgrading "while I'm in there". > > I'm getting the motorforce camber plates with the idea that I'll be able > to adjust street vs autox settings (I do 1-2 autoxes a month). I believe > I can get 2 settings: a good amount of negative camber with a little toe > out for autox, and not as aggressive camber with no toe for the street. > > Does anyone else do this? > > In my "internet research" I've come across concern about wear from > adjusting the plates all the time, but haven't seen anyone definitely > say "I did this for a year and wore out my plates b/c of it". > > -- > Adam Lazur > ________________________________________________________________________ > Check out the new AOL. Most comprehensive set of free safety and security tools, free access to millions of high-quality videos from across the web, free AOL Mail and more. > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > >
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Yes, oil question again...track use.. - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2006 14:52:01 -0700 (PDT) From: "Jim Bassett" <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Yes, oil question again...track use.. That's some pretty good info, Rich. Thanks. I will point one thing out: > GC M1 M1 > 0W30 0W40 15W50 > > 100 - 12.1 cst 14.3 cst 18.0 cst > 110 - 9.9 cst 11.7 cst 14.3 cst > 120 - 8.3 cst 9.7 cst 11.6 cst 120 Celsius is ~250F, which is the oil temp I typically see on the track. The difference in viscosity at that temp seems significant to me <shrug>. Anyway, as I think I pointed out earlier (maybe not), the race car sees a near-equal amount of track miles as street miles and is at the track 1-3 times per month. So my concerns about oil/viscosity/etc are different from someone who does one or two events year. And yes, I get my oil analyzed (both cars, every change). Cheers, Jim Bassett
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Angel Eyes and Euro Headlights - from Russ Doucet
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Date: Thu, 14 Sep 2006 07:24:14 -0400 From: "Russ Doucet" <russ@russdoucet.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Angel Eyes and Euro Headlights > Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2006 10:13:41 -0700 > From: Kelvin <mpower@obikwan.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Angel Eyes and Euro Headlights > > Bill, > On mine, you can access it from the back, via the high beam access > panel. You open up that door and you can pull the city light out. > > On the back of your headlight there should be 2 "doors." One to access > the low beam bulb and one to access the high beam bulb. The city light > is on the high beam side. > > Let me know if that doesn't work for you, because i'll "try" to take > some pictures for you then. > > -kelvin On my set, the city bulb socket appears to be built right in to the reflector but in fact it does pull out from the back if you actually tug on it. It definately fooled me the first couple times I looked at it, it's entirely different from the main bulb setup. -Russ.