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#1. Re: [E36M3] E30 M3 rear seat cushion - from Kent Shephard
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Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2006 17:39:51 -0700 From: Kent Shephard <Kents@kls-consulting.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] E30 M3 rear seat cushion Easy. Two bolts right at the front f the seat; if I remember correctly. Lift and pull it out. Kent Shephard kents@kshephard.com On Sep 19, 2006, at 3:47 PM, Scott McClung wrote: > Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2006 15:37:39 -0700 (PDT) > From: Scott McClung <smlists@pacbell.net> > Subject: E30 M3 rear seat cushion > > I figure someone here may know this one - how easy is the bottom > seat cushion (back seat) on a E30 to remove / replace? > > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > >
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#2. Lower control arms replacement--tips? - from Rich Dorffer
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Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2006 20:47:22 -0400 From: "Rich Dorffer" <E36M3Digest@gmail.com> Subject: Lower control arms replacement--tips? From: "Burgess, Kim L" <kim.l.burgess@boeing.com> > > I used a modestly large construction wrecking bar to apply (separating) > force to the joint and gave the control arm at the joint a whack with 3 > lb copper-head hammer. Took a couple of swings but things popped loose. > I left the nuts on the last portion of threads of the ball-joint shafts > so things did not fly apart. Good idea, works for me too. I used silicone spray liberally applied to the control arm and the > lolly-pop/bushing and drove it home with a 3 lb dead-blow hammer. The > control arm was simply placed on the ground/driveway asphalt surface on > edge with bushing boss facing up. I placed the lolly-pop on the CA boss > and got them started on then used a deep socket that fit over the > control arm boss to seat them. Bad idea, you shouldn't use silicone spray or any similar lubricant to install the bushings/holders onto the control arm. BMW recommends a fast evaporant like turpentine but you have to act quickly, I personally use plain water. One could also use water with some soap but I really don't see why it is necessary. I can easily push them on by hand just using a little water and a twisting motion, no need for any BFH or sockets or BMW tools. Regards, Rich
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#3. [E36M3] Replacing all the locks on my M3 - from Dave DeBuhr
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Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2006 18:16:29 -0700 From: "Dave DeBuhr" <debuhr@comcast.net> Subject: [E36M3] Replacing all the locks on my M3 After having my keys stolen along with something with my home address, I decided to buy new locks for my car along with new remote keyless fobs, etc. Anyone have a website or tips for doing this job? Is it a royal PITA and worth taking to the dealer? They wanted $600 for the labor so I though it might be worth taking a stab at it myself first. There is also a new electronic module that came with it. I have no idea here it goes. Hopefully the Bentley has a nice writeup. Dave 98 M3/4
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#4. RE: [E36M3] Replacing all the locks on my M3 - from Alexander Fadeev
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Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2006 21:37:43 -0400 From: "Alexander Fadeev" <afadeev@smu.edu> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Replacing all the locks on my M3 Dave, Point 1: If your insurance deductible is around $500 => why bother? Point 2: Having once rebuild lock cylinders in an E30, I have to say that it is a fairly straight forward procedure. On a 2-door car there are only three locks to rebuild. Probably at 2-4 hours per lock (most of that removing and reinstalling the locks in the doors and the trunk), with 2x-3x for the first one. I do not remember how much I paid for lock rebuild kit, but I doubt that it was much below $50. The instruction that came with the kit were worthless even after translating them from German. The learning curve for rebuilding the first cylinder was definitely there. Do search the net to get an idea of what you are considering getting yourself into: http://www.bmwe30.net/cgi-bin/datacgi/database.cgi?file=articles&report=view &ID=00032&Section=01 Add the cost of the EWS module, cutting new keys, car down time, etc. With all this, the payoff may or may not be very attractive, depending on your income/free time ratio. If you Prob(theft) * (Your deductible) << $600, I personally would not bother ;-) I would re-code the alarm as a minor deterrent, but that's it. IMHO, YMMV, blah, blah alex f -----Original Message----- Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2006 18:16:29 -0700 From: "Dave DeBuhr" <debuhr@comcast.net> Subject: [E36M3] Replacing all the locks on my M3 After having my keys stolen along with something with my home address, I decided to buy new locks for my car along with new remote keyless fobs, etc. Anyone have a website or tips for doing this job? Is it a royal PITA and worth taking to the dealer? They wanted $600 for the labor so I though it might be worth taking a stab at it myself first. There is also a new electronic module that came with it. I have no idea here it goes. Hopefully the Bentley has a nice writeup. Dave 98 M3/4
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Replacing all the locks on my M3 - from Mdriver13@aol.com
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Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2006 22:13:42 EDT From: Mdriver13@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Replacing all the locks on my M3 Dave, After having this happen some years ago, the police told me to change the house locks, but the cars were optional (lots of Audi's and Porsche's out there it that time) and without any other type of identifiers in would be unlikely they would go after the cars. Of course it's totally up to you and your comfort level. Best of luck, Bob Gill 97 ///M3 coupe Philly Region SCCA 2005 Philly Region BSP Champion Sponsored by Wheel Collision Center, JT-Designs, & Rogue Engineering
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#6. RE: [E36M3] Replacing all the locks on my M3 - from Dave DeBuhr
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Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2006 20:38:24 -0700 From: "Dave DeBuhr" <debuhr@comcast.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Replacing all the locks on my M3 You make a good case for not worrying about it. However, I have a couple reasons for wanting to do this. 1. I'm down to 1 key and alarm FOB and the FOB no longer works. 2. I lost about $3K worth of stuff (laptop, PSP, iPOD, PDA) so insurance picked up the tab as I was well over th $500 deductable. 3. I already have the complete lock set with the ignition, door, glove box, trunk, EWS module, keys and FOBs so I'm pretty much committed. ;-) The door locks include entire new handle assemblies so this isn't just a rekey job. It is an actual lock replacement. My wife drives the car and peice of mind goes a long way for her when I'm on my various business travels so I said *&^* it and bought the kit. Thanks again for the info! Dave -----Original Message----- From: Alexander Fadeev [mailto:afadeev@smu.edu] Sent: Tuesday, September 19, 2006 6:38 PM To: 'Dave DeBuhr'; 'E36M3' Subject: RE: [E36M3] Replacing all the locks on my M3 Dave, Point 1: If your insurance deductible is around $500 => why bother? Point 2: Having once rebuild lock cylinders in an E30, I have to say that it is a fairly straight forward procedure. On a 2-door car there are only three locks to rebuild. Probably at 2-4 hours per lock (most of that removing and reinstalling the locks in the doors and the trunk), with 2x-3x for the first one. I do not remember how much I paid for lock rebuild kit, but I doubt that it was much below $50. The instruction that came with the kit were worthless even after translating them from German. The learning curve for rebuilding the first cylinder was definitely there. Do search the net to get an idea of what you are considering getting yourself into: http://www.bmwe30.net/cgi-bin/datacgi/database.cgi?file=articles&report=view &ID=00032&Section=01 Add the cost of the EWS module, cutting new keys, car down time, etc. With all this, the payoff may or may not be very attractive, depending on your income/free time ratio. If you Prob(theft) * (Your deductible) << $600, I personally would not bother ;-) I would re-code the alarm as a minor deterrent, but that's it.
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#7. Speaker switch - from M3
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Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2006 19:24:25 -0500 From: M3 <m3@cueframe.us> Subject: Speaker switch I've got a blown mid-range speaker on a '99 coup (the larger of the two on the door panel, the bottom one) and need some help getting the old one out and new one in. Do I have to get behind it or remove the panel to make the change? I notice the new one's threaded but the old one doesn't want to budge when I try and turn it counter-clockwise. Has anyone done this before and can give me some suggestions? Thanks, Bill Ft. Worth
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Speaker switch - from Jay Hudson
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Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2006 06:10:09 -0700 From: "Jay Hudson" <jwhud@budget.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Speaker switch The door panel has to come off. There's a threaded collar that threads on from the back side to hold the speaker assembly in the door panel. Jay > Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2006 19:24:25 -0500 > From: M3 <m3@cueframe.us> > Subject: Speaker switch > > I've got a blown mid-range speaker on a '99 coup (the larger of the two > on the door panel, the bottom one) and need some help getting the old one > out and new one in. > > Do I have to get behind it or remove the panel to make the change? > > I notice the new one's threaded but the old one doesn't want to budge > when I try and turn it counter-clockwise. > > Has anyone done this before and can give me some suggestions? > > > Thanks, > > Bill > Ft. Worth >
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Speaker switch - from M3
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Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2006 08:21:56 -0500 From: M3 <m3@cueframe.us> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Speaker switch Thanks Jay. On Sep 20, 2006, at 8:10 AM, Jay Hudson wrote: > The door panel has to come off. There's a threaded collar that > threads on from the back side to hold the speaker assembly in the > door panel. > > Jay > >> Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2006 19:24:25 -0500 >> From: M3 <m3@cueframe.us> >> Subject: Speaker switch >> >> I've got a blown mid-range speaker on a '99 coup (the larger of >> the two on the door panel, the bottom one) and need some help >> getting the old one out and new one in. >> >> Do I have to get behind it or remove the panel to make the change? >> >> I notice the new one's threaded but the old one doesn't want to >> budge when I try and turn it counter-clockwise. >> >> Has anyone done this before and can give me some suggestions? >> >> >> Thanks, >> >> Bill >> Ft. Worth >> > > >
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#10. Exhaust Manifold - from M3
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Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2006 08:25:03 -0500 From: M3 <m3@cueframe.us> Subject: Exhaust Manifold I've just managed to twist off two of the three studs on one of the two exhaust manifolds on a '99 Coupe. Is this the time to go to shorty headers or would I be well advised to just replace the header with another stock or should I try and drill the studs out of the header, replace them and reinstall it? Thanks, Bill Ft. Worth