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#1. Re: [E36M3] Re: Exhaust Manifold - from Chester Wong
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Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2006 17:05:06 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Exhaust Manifold O, btw....the replacement part, when ordered, is not a stud. It's a friggin bolt. It's still a very expensive bolt, but a bolt nonetheless. So don't think you'll be getting a stud that can be pressed back in. Chester --- dgcrum@jps.net wrote: > True. But if you choose an impact driver (or are really aggressive with a > hammer), take a few minutes and remove the regulating O2 sensors first. The > heater elements in them don’t like that much vibration. BTDT; replaced the O2 > sensors afterwards. The two studs, which were striped, not broken, were > replaced with a grade 10.9 bolt-washer-nut combo, primarily to get the job > finished and the car back on the ground. I know it will be a pain the next > time I take the exhaust apart since those two bolts will require a wrench on > the head of the bolt in addition to the socket, with multiple extensions, on > the nut. If you have the lead time, order the studs… > > - David > > > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > >
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Re: Exhaust Manifold Studs - from mdufford@mindspring.com
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Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2006 18:50:21 -0600 From: mdufford@mindspring.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Exhaust Manifold Studs I was able to get mine out with a punch and a few wacks of not that heavy a hammer on the car. No damage to O2 sensors or anything else. Theoriginals are just splined press-in studs. The new $$$ replacement bolt isn't any more robust as I snapped one of those fasteners in half disassembling it again some months later. Max
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#3. RE: Speaker Adapters - from Jeff Bjerke
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Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2006 20:22:44 -0500 From: "Jeff Bjerke" <jbjerke@charter.net> Subject: RE: Speaker Adapters I put them in this spring. Fit/work perfectly. Wanted more bass, but didn't want a box or tube taking up trunk space. The JL Audio Stealthboxes are highly recommended but too pricey for what I needed. Jeff 98 Red/Blk Coupe Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2006 17:06:00 -0400 From: "Jonathan Evans" <jonathanevans@hotmail.com> Subject: Speaker Adapters Anyone tried these speaker adapters? Are the stock amps good enough to power some low end 6X9's? Looks like the poor-man's method for more bass in the crap-tacular stock sound system in my '95. http://www.bavariansoundwerks.com/product.php/II=445/_cid=283 I think I deserve some sort of enthusiasts award for only putting money in keep-it-going and go-fast goodies like VANOS, suspension, bushings, tires, euro intake, etc for the past 6 years... -Jonathan 95 m3
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Re: Exhaust Manifold - from Jack - Elephant Motorsports
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Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2006 22:46:49 -0400 From: "Jack - Elephant Motorsports" <jack@elephantmotorsports.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Exhaust Manifold Hey Bill, As Chester said, twas him who suggested that....actually I recall Jon said it first. But anyway, no, I would most likely NOT do it with the manifolds on the car, remove them first. Oh, and WD40 is like the NA beer of penetrants compared to PB Blaster and its Bazooka Joe comic label, akin to some good ol' fashioned malt liquor. Interesting, I recently removed a motor with ~170k on it, original motor, and impacted the manifold nuts off....no issues whatsoever. Musta got lucky. Jack Money Elephant Motorsports http://www.elephantmotorsports.com On 9/20/06, M3 <m3@cueframe.us> wrote: > > Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2006 17:25:12 -0500 > From: M3 <m3@cueframe.us> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Exhaust Manifold > > > But Jack, > > Do you think this "tapping" the studs out is relatively doable? > > Have you done it? > > Manifold attached to the head or out on the bench? > > I've soaked all the nuts with WD-40 for overnite. > > $40 is better than $210 but I don't want to ruin a head in the process. > > Best, > > Bill > Ft. Worth
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Re: Exhaust Manifold - from Chester Wong
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Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2006 22:15:11 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Exhaust Manifold Methinks the use of antiseize is a key factor to being able to remove the nuts off at a later time. I broke mine off when I reassembled everything for a short duration and then had to take it off again. The first time on reassembly, I don't think I used antiseize or I had done so just a few weeks prior so I didn't think it needed it again. That's when the nuts galled and I couldn't remove them. Chester --- Jack - Elephant Motorsports <jack@elephantmotorsports.com> wrote: > Interesting, I recently removed a motor with ~170k on it, original motor, > and impacted the manifold nuts off....no issues whatsoever. Musta got > lucky.
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#6. Re: [E36M3] RE: Speaker Adapters - from Chris Teague
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Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2006 22:28:24 -0700 From: "Chris Teague" <cteague@cox.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: Speaker Adapters Jeff, What speakers did you use? Did they need any wiring harness adapters, or are those included with the adapter kit? Chris ----- Original Message ----- > Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2006 20:22:44 -0500 > From: "Jeff Bjerke" <jbjerke@charter.net> > Subject: RE: Speaker Adapters > > I put them in this spring. Fit/work perfectly. > Wanted more bass, but didn't want a box or tube taking > up trunk space. The JL Audio Stealthboxes are highly recommended > but too pricey for what I needed. > > Jeff > 98 Red/Blk Coupe > >
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Re: Exhaust Manifold - from Jon@treehouseracing.com
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Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2006 00:43:22 -0500 From: "Jon@treehouseracing.com" <jon@treehouseracing.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Exhaust Manifold hahahahaha.. PB Blaster. we use it EVERYDAY. Jon ______________________________________________ Jon Siccardi - DM #053 #052- Retired TreehouseRacing.com M50conversion.com 615.333.9118 ______________________________________________ ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jack - Elephant Motorsports" <jack@elephantmotorsports.com> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Wednesday, September 20, 2006 9:47 PM Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Exhaust Manifold > Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2006 22:46:49 -0400 > From: "Jack - Elephant Motorsports" <jack@elephantmotorsports.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Exhaust Manifold > > Hey Bill, > > As Chester said, twas him who suggested that....actually I recall Jon said > it first. But anyway, no, I would most likely NOT do it with the > manifolds > on the car, remove them first. Oh, and WD40 is like the NA beer of > penetrants compared to PB Blaster and its Bazooka Joe comic label, akin to > some good ol' fashioned malt liquor. > > Interesting, I recently removed a motor with ~170k on it, original motor, > and impacted the manifold nuts off....no issues whatsoever. Musta got > lucky. > > Jack Money > Elephant Motorsports > http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > On 9/20/06, M3 <m3@cueframe.us> wrote: >> >> Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2006 17:25:12 -0500 >> From: M3 <m3@cueframe.us> >> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Exhaust Manifold >> >> >> But Jack, >> >> Do you think this "tapping" the studs out is relatively doable? >> >> Have you done it? >> >> Manifold attached to the head or out on the bench? >> >> I've soaked all the nuts with WD-40 for overnite. >> >> $40 is better than $210 but I don't want to ruin a head in the process. >> >> Best, >> >> Bill >> Ft. Worth > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > >
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#8. Re: Exhaust Manifold - from Neil Maller
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Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2006 08:24:19 -0400 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Exhaust Manifold on 9/20/06 8:07 PM, dgcrum@jps.net wrote: > I know it will be a pain the next time I take the exhaust apart since those > two bolts will require a wrench on the head of the bolt in addition to the > socket, with multiple extensions, on the nut. If you have the lead time, order > the studs. In fact the replacement BMW parts come as hex head bolts, not studs. on 9/20/06 8:07 PM, "Burgess, Kim L" <kim.l.burgess@boeing.com> wrote: > Why not Stainless with the BMW copper nuts? That's certainly what I'd have done if I'd known. The special BMW bolts were part of a much larger parts order. I didn't see how much they cost until the shipment came in. Yes, I was shocked! Especially since I'd bought all six. Similarly I do use M8 stainless bolts plus stock copper nuts for the flanges where the cat back exhaust mates to the cat section. on 9/20/06 8:07 PM, M3 <m3@cueframe.us> wrote: > Do you think this "tapping" the studs out is relatively doable? > Have you done it? > Manifold attached to the head or out on the bench? > I've soaked all the nuts with WD-40 for overnite. > $40 is better than $210 but I don't want to ruin a head in the process. WD-40 isn't much of a penetrating oil. You'll get better results with Würth, Kroil or PB Blaster. Considering the risks that others have pointed out of using a BFH on the manifold while it's in place, what I'd try is a 3- or 2-legged puller or a ball joint separator to see if the broken stud can be pushed out of the flange. This would transmit zero force to the head. No risk, not big money and so and worth a try I'd think. Besides, it's an excuse to buy a new tool! Neil 96 M3
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#9. Progress on the Exhaust Manifold - from M3
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Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2006 08:36:55 -0500 From: M3 <m3@cueframe.us> Subject: Progress on the Exhaust Manifold Thank you, Neil, Jon, David, Jack, Chester, Jamie, Kim, Robert and everyone else on the sidelines standin' around the car with one hand in your pocket and the other wrapped around a beer going, "Hmmm, yah. Hmmmmmm. yahkl." OK, I'm off to get some P B Blaster, available, I discovered from the Internet, everywhere. Then I'll try the puller idea (which no one claims to have ever tried, but seems a good, non-damaging idea), followed by manifold removal, if the puller doesn't work for some reason. Then we'll tackle the drive shaft lowering/removal (?) and flex disc (guibo) replacement. I've been doing some thinking about disconnecting the rear end of the driveshaft. Do I just unbolt the universal or what? What are the things to know, the tricks? Thanks, Bill P.S. Recall, this all started because I decided to put in a short shifter.
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Progress on the Exhaust Manifold - from Gary
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Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2006 08:55:18 -0500 From: "Gary" <probikeguy@probikeusa.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Progress on the Exhaust Manifold Just remember the larger the mass. The faster it rolls down hill. Once you "start fixin" things go down hill from their.. My e28 blew a head gasket back 8 years ago..I figured it was God telling me it needed to be turbocharged ;-) Gary "Projects R Us" Gray ----- Original Message ----- From: "M3" <m3@cueframe.us> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Thursday, September 21, 2006 8:46 AM Subject: [E36M3] Progress on the Exhaust Manifold > Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2006 08:36:55 -0500 > From: M3 <m3@cueframe.us> > Subject: Progress on the Exhaust Manifold > > Thank you, Neil, Jon, David, Jack, Chester, Jamie, Kim, Robert and > > everyone else on the sidelines standin' around the car with one hand in > your pocket and the other wrapped around a beer going, "Hmmm, yah. > Hmmmmmm. yahkl." > > OK, I'm off to get some P B Blaster, available, I discovered from the > Internet, everywhere. > > Then I'll try the puller idea (which no one claims to have ever tried, > but seems a good, non-damaging idea), followed by manifold removal, if > the puller doesn't work for some reason. > > Then we'll tackle the drive shaft lowering/removal (?) and flex disc > (guibo) replacement. > > I've been doing some thinking about disconnecting the rear end of the > driveshaft. > > Do I just unbolt the universal or what? > > What are the things to know, the tricks? > > Thanks, > > Bill > > P.S. Recall, this all started because I decided to put in a short > shifter. > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > >