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#1. Re: [E36M3] Progress on the Exhaust Manifold - from Jack - Elephant Motorsports
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Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2006 10:26:07 -0400 From: "Jack - Elephant Motorsports" <jack@elephantmotorsports.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Progress on the Exhaust Manifold Bill, The D/S and flex disc R/R is easy as pie...especially since you already have the exhaust down. ; ) Personally, you don't need to remove the D/S completely but you will need to drop it at the center bearing. Make sure it's supported so that it's not hanging on the ujoint. Also recall the center bearing is preloaded. You can mark the position before loosening the nuts but with a new flex disc you *may* need to re-preload (say that 10x fast) it. I don't recall what that is right off hand but I think it's in the Bentley....maybe 6mm..anyone? Oh, and of course to drop the center bearing you need to remove the little exhaust hangers first in order to reach the center bearing mounting hardware. Cheers and good luck! Jack Money Elephant Motorsports http://www.elephantmotorsports.com On 9/21/06, M3 <m3@cueframe.us> wrote: > > Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2006 08:36:55 -0500 > From: M3 <m3@cueframe.us> > Subject: Progress on the Exhaust Manifold > > Thank you, Neil, Jon, David, Jack, Chester, Jamie, Kim, Robert and > > everyone else on the sidelines standin' around the car with one hand > in your pocket and the other wrapped around a beer going, "Hmmm, yah. > Hmmmmmm. yahkl." > > OK, I'm off to get some P B Blaster, available, I discovered from the > Internet, everywhere. > > Then I'll try the puller idea (which no one claims to have ever > tried, but seems a good, non-damaging idea), followed by manifold > removal, if the puller doesn't work for some reason. > > Then we'll tackle the drive shaft lowering/removal (?) and flex disc > (guibo) replacement. > > I've been doing some thinking about disconnecting the rear end of the > driveshaft. > > Do I just unbolt the universal or what? > > What are the things to know, the tricks? > > Thanks, > > Bill > > P.S. Recall, this all started because I decided to put in a short > shifter.
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Re: Exhaust Manifold - from Chester Wong
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Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2006 07:26:20 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Exhaust Manifold --- Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> wrote: > That's certainly what I'd have done if I'd known. The special BMW bolts were > part of a much larger parts order. I didn't see how much they cost until the > shipment came in. Yes, I was shocked! Especially since I'd bought all six. Wow! Certainly a case of "thank you sir, may I have another?" =P I think I would have been with you with a purchase of three, but the dealer only had two in stock so I only have one extra one. Hahaha. Once I was it was a bolt, I didn't press out the other studs. Chester
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#3. Re: Progress on the Exhaust Manifold - from dgcrum@jps.net
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Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2006 07:39:21 -0700 (GMT-07:00) From: dgcrum@jps.net Subject: Re: Progress on the Exhaust Manifold >everyone else on the sidelines standin' around the car with one hand >in your pocket and the other wrapped around a beer going, "Hmmm, yah. >Hmmmmmm. yahkl." Now, _that's_ funny! Was that the punchline to "How many bim-heads does it take to change an exhaust manifold stud/bolt??" <rim-shot> >P.S. Recall, this all started because I decided to put in a short shifter. {Bill peeks into the rabbit hole and starts to tumble downward...} Can a six speed and 40% LSD be far behind? -dc
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#4. RE: Broken Stud....was RE: Progress on the Exhaust Manifold - from Burgess, Kim L
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Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2006 07:41:02 -0700 From: "Burgess, Kim L" <kim.l.burgess@boeing.com> Subject: RE: Broken Stud....was RE: Progress on the Exhaust Manifold Remove the head pipe? Can't one just 'back-up' the blows of the hammer/punch to the remaining stud in the flange with the head of a sledge or big a$$ dead-blow hammer? KLB -------------------- 9 -------------------- Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2006 08:36:55 -0500 From: M3 <m3@cueframe.us> Subject: Progress on the Exhaust Manifold Thank you, Neil, Jon, David, Jack, Chester, Jamie, Kim, Robert and everyone else on the sidelines standin' around the car with one hand in your pocket and the other wrapped around a beer going, "Hmmm, yah. Hmmmmmm. yahkl." OK, I'm off to get some P B Blaster, available, I discovered from the Internet, everywhere. Then I'll try the puller idea (which no one claims to have ever tried, but seems a good, non-damaging idea), followed by manifold removal, if the puller doesn't work for some reason. Then we'll tackle the drive shaft lowering/removal (?) and flex disc (guibo) replacement. I've been doing some thinking about disconnecting the rear end of the driveshaft. Do I just unbolt the universal or what? What are the things to know, the tricks? Thanks, Bill. P.S. Recall, this all started because I decided to put in a short shifter.
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Re: Exhaust Manifold - from Carlos.F.Lopez@jci.com
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Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2006 10:45:22 -0400 From: Carlos.F.Lopez@jci.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Exhaust Manifold Neil wrote: >That's certainly what I'd have done if I'd known. The special BMW bolts were >part of a much larger parts order. I didn't see how much they cost until the >shipment came in. Yes, I was shocked! Especially since I'd bought all six. >Similarly I do use M8 stainless bolts plus stock copper nuts for the flanges >where the cat back exhaust mates to the cat section. I believe stainless steel fasteners don't have the tensile strength that the stock hardware has (did someone mention it was grade 10.9?). I forgot but how do the stock ones fail? In shear? If so then perhaps stainless isn't such a good idea but for the flanges I would agree they would be fine. Maybe someone can do some kind of metallurgical analysis between stainless and the unobtanium replacement hardware. ;-P -Carlos 98 M3
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#6. Progress on the Exhaust Manifold - from Mo Karamat
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Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2006 11:34:56 -0400 From: Mo Karamat <karamatm@optonline.net> Subject: Progress on the Exhaust Manifold I've been doing some thinking about disconnecting the rear end of the driveshaft. Do I just unbolt the universal or what? What are the things to know, the tricks? Bill, Hello, depending on the drive shafts that were laying around when your car was built, you may have either the 4 bolt U joint, or the 6 bolt CV Joint. Either way, just loosen the nuts, and carefully separate the drive shaft from the Diff. (you may need to gently hit the connection point from the side with a hammer to separate the two) It is really pretty easy. On the front, there are 3 bolts holding the shaft to the Guibo. Good luck Mo
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#7. RE: [E36M3] RE: Speaker Adapters - from Jeff Bjerke
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Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2006 10:38:54 -0500 From: "Jeff Bjerke" <jbjerke@charter.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] RE: Speaker Adapters Chris, The 6x9 adapters do not include any wiring accessories but they do include all the hardware required for mounting the speakers. I used a pair of CDT 6x9 subs (recommendation on Bimmerforums). I also mounted an amplifier in the trunk, so I just ran new wires to the rear speakers. You can probably get wire adapters or just cut the end off and wire direct if you have no plans on returning to stock. BSW also sells custom E36 sub boxes that mount under the rear shelf (off the trunk floor) that would yield superior low end to the adapters. Just depends on how much you want to spend. Made for a huge improvement on the low end, but I think I'm still under driving the subs. May try a larger amp in the spring, but it's mainly a track car. A nice sound system makes the drive to distant tracks much more enjoyable though. Jeff Bjerke 98 Red/Blk Coupe -----Original Message----- From: Chris Teague [mailto:cteague@cox.net] Sent: Thursday, September 21, 2006 12:28 AM To: Jeff Bjerke; E36M3 Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: Speaker Adapters Jeff, What speakers did you use? Did they need any wiring harness adapters, or are those included with the adapter kit? Chris ----- Original Message ----- > Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2006 20:22:44 -0500 > From: "Jeff Bjerke" <jbjerke@charter.net> > Subject: RE: Speaker Adapters > > I put them in this spring. Fit/work perfectly. > Wanted more bass, but didn't want a box or tube taking > up trunk space. The JL Audio Stealthboxes are highly recommended > but too pricey for what I needed. > > Jeff > 98 Red/Blk Coupe > >
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Re: Exhaust Manifold - from Neil Maller
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Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2006 12:01:36 -0400 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Exhaust Manifold on 9/21/06 10:45 AM, Carlos.F.Lopez@jci.com at Carlos.F.Lopez@jci.com wrote: > I believe stainless steel fasteners don't have the tensile strength that the > stock hardware has (did someone mention it was grade 10.9?). Yes, that's true. Stainless replacement bolts shouldn't be used in high strength applications unless the original design called for them. However holding either the forward or rear exhaust flanges together isn't any kind of a big deal. > I forgot but how do the stock ones fail? In shear? I don't know that they fail so much as corrode together and get broken when you try to get the nut off. Thus initiating a thread on the Digest... I was amazed that all 6 of mine came off intact, but since the headers I was putting on at the time required new bolts anyway it didn't matter. > If so then perhaps stainless isn't such a good idea but for the flanges I > would agree they would be fine. When doing projects I routinely replace any fasteners on the underside of the car unless I specifically know that the originals to be in good shape. As Carlos knows too, that's life in the road-salt Midwest! I also routinely use stainless fasteners for lots of those little 6mm and 8mm bolts where high strength isn't an issue. It's nice to know you can get them undone easily in the future. Stainless-on-stainless tends to gall, but if you use plated steel nuts the zinc coating acts as a lubricant to prevent that. Neil 96 M3
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Progress on the Exhaust Manifold - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2006 09:21:03 -0700 (PDT) From: "Jim Bassett" <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Progress on the Exhaust Manifold On Thu, September 21, 2006 6:46 am, M3 said: > Thank you, Neil, Jon, David, Jack, Chester, Jamie, Kim, Robert and > > everyone else on the sidelines standin' around the car with one hand > in your pocket and the other wrapped around a beer going, "Hmmm, yah. > Hmmmmmm. yahkl." Well, *someone* has to drink it :-) > P.S. Recall, this all started because I decided to put in a short > shifter. LOL! Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4 1993 325is #44 JP - it all started with an innocent driver's school :-)
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#10. AC compressor died - should I consider used parts? - from bnmhead-bmw@yahoo.com
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Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2006 12:02:26 -0700 (PDT) From: <bnmhead-bmw@yahoo.com> Subject: AC compressor died - should I consider used parts? I'm trying to decide which way to go - the ac compressor locked up on my '95 325i with 135k miles. I had been planning on getting new parts, the OEM Denso compressor, etc.. probably from Bimmerparts. If I go that route the new compressor is $350, plus another $70 for the receiver drier. Plus any other parts that may have failed that I don't know about (lines, evaporator, condensor, etc). On the other hand, I've found someone making a track car from a '98M3 (97k miles) that has the ac system still on it, working, that's willing to evacuate the system, pull it, seal it up and ship it to me, the whole thing, for $300 plus shipping. I was tempted to go this way because I thought it included the ac aux fan assembly, that alone used is ~$150+, but now getting the details of the deal he's keeping it on the car (do most dedicated track cars keep the aux ac as part of the cooling?), given it's not part of the deal I'm having second thoughts. I'm on a tight budget (getting divorced) am I being penny wise, pound foolish to consider going with used parts? As far as the actual work, I just swap out compressor, use new o rings all around, swap out receiver drier also, then take it somewhere to have it vacuumed down, checked for leaks, and then charged, but that should be it, right? If I go for the used parts should I get a new receiver drier? Anyone done this that would care to share anything useful they learned in the process? P.S. I know it's a 325i, and this in the M list, but it has decent suspension & brake mods, so Suzy is nice enough to let me hang out here despite not having an M car.