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#1. Re: Steering ratios - from chipmitchell@gmail.com
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Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2006 13:40:13 -0400 From: "chipmitchell@gmail.com" <chipmitchell@gmail.com> Subject: Re: Steering ratios re: "In order to get a quick ratio of the '95, you'll have to find an original one." I replaced my rack about two years ago with a reman from Autozone. I bought the '95 in mid-'97 and it had the original rack to the best of my knowledge. The ratio was exactly the same as far as I could tell. I turned the column 1/2 turn from center and measured how far the rack was displaced, and did the same for 2 turns from center. I believe this is different than a "lock-to-lock" count because what you really care about is how much you turn the front wheels for every turn of the steering wheel. Unless you make some other assumptions, lock-to-lock doesn't mean much. Chip Mitchell -------------------- 2 -------------------- Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2006 21:40:44 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [e36m3] Re: [E36M3] Steering Rack? --- Dave Thomas <dave@sasdatalink.com> wrote: > Not sure exactly what is different between them...but all of the folks that > sell rebuilt racks show the '95 M3 rack being unique and they also show the > 96+ rack being different (different BMW part number at least) than the normal > E36 rack. Yep...the housings are different colors but that was about it...well, and the '95 reman was a lot more expensive, too. Other than that, the ratios were exactly the same. In order to get a quick ratio of the '95, you'll have to find an original one. Chester
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#2. Adhesive Suggestions? - from Michael Wylie
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Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2006 10:42:50 -0700 From: "Michael Wylie" <mdwylie@ix.netcom.com> Subject: Adhesive Suggestions? The left rear passenger armrest panel "fell off" and the leatherette covering on the panel separated along it's edges from the backing. It seems both are the result of adhesive failure. Might anyone have a suggestions for an instant and strong adhesive that will allow me to glue the leatherette edges to the back of the panel as well as get the panel back where it goes??? Thanks for any suggestions! Mike SF CA 95 M3 03 525
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Adhesive Suggestions? - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2006 10:53:36 -0700 (PDT) From: "Jim Bassett" <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Adhesive Suggestions? On Wed, September 27, 2006 10:46 am, Michael Wylie said: > Thanks for any suggestions! My first choice would be a general purpose two-part epoxy. A second choice would be Gorilla Glue - I just used some to re-attach the rubber pad to the HF jack, worked well. Cheers, Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4 - separating glove box door will need similar repair 1993 325is #44 JP
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#4. RE: [E36M3] Speaking of brakes - rear wear - from Scott
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Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2006 10:54:29 -0700 From: "Scott" <stiles_s@hotmail.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Speaking of brakes - rear wear I haven't thought about this a ton, but it seems to make sense that a car with stiffer springs (than stock) would work the rear brakes harder due to less weight transferring to the front under hard braking. Scott. -----Original Message----- From: Gus Iverson [mailto:gus.iverson@gmail.com] Sent: Wednesday, September 27, 2006 10:17 AM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] Speaking of brakes - rear wear Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2006 10:10:34 -0700 From: "Gus Iverson" <gus.iverson@gmail.com> Subject: Speaking of brakes - rear wear Quick notes on car setup to start things off: TCK D/A Coilovers unsure on the rates (425 / 500?) Ferodo 2500 pads front and rear RA-1 track tires I'm seeing a lot more rear brake wear than I would expect with this car. Bear in mind that my previous track car, a 2001 Mustang Cobra with an admittedly fundamentally broken suspension, hardly used the rear brakes. Putting a track pad in the fronts and leaving a street pad in the rear (typically Hawk HPS) would do fine and the rear pads would last *for ever*. On my 98 M3/4 I'm seeing 5-7 events per set of front brake pads but only 3-4 events per set of rears. This seems remarkable to me. It's nice to see the rears get some use, but I'd still expect the fronts to wear out first. Thoughts? Symtomatic of some kind of problem? Should I just stop worrying and buy more pads? Thanks Gus 98 M3/4 91 325ix 72 Bronco ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Speaking of brakes - rear wear - from debuhr@comcast.net
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Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2006 17:58:52 +0000 From: debuhr@comcast.net Subject: Re: [E36M3] Speaking of brakes - rear wear Are you running with traction control on? Dat'l do it... -------------- Original message ---------------------- From: "Gus Iverson" <gus.iverson@gmail.com> > Subject: Speaking of brakes - rear wear > I'm seeing a lot more rear brake wear than I would expect with this > car. Bear in mind that my previous track car, a 2001 Mustang Cobra > with an admittedly fundamentally broken suspension, hardly used the > rear brakes. Putting a track pad in the fronts and leaving a street > pad in the rear (typically Hawk HPS) would do fine and the rear pads > would last *for ever*.
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Adhesive Suggestions? - from Peter Loron
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Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2006 10:59:29 -0700 From: "Peter Loron" <peterloron@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Adhesive Suggestions? The problem with both of those is that they're not instant. You need to hold them in place for hours to get the job done. That would be problematic for the leatherette, I think... Maybe some kind of superglue or contact cement? -Pete On 9/27/06, Jim Bassett <jim@jimbassett.com> wrote: > > Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2006 10:53:36 -0700 (PDT) > From: "Jim Bassett" <jim@jimbassett.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Adhesive Suggestions? > > On Wed, September 27, 2006 10:46 am, Michael Wylie said: > > Thanks for any suggestions! > > My first choice would be a general purpose two-part epoxy. A second choice > would be Gorilla Glue - I just used some to re-attach the rubber pad to > the HF jack, worked well. > > Cheers, > Jim Bassett > 1998 M3/4 - separating glove box door will need similar repair > 1993 325is #44 JP > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > >
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#7. Re: Steering Rack? - from Burgess, Kim L
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Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2006 11:09:53 -0700 From: "Burgess, Kim L" <kim.l.burgess@boeing.com> Subject: Re: Steering Rack? Hummmm. I think I recall Neil or Chester running down rack ratios a couple years back. As I recall the 95 rack was quicker and 3.2 being progressive? I also thought Chester had stated a 'cottage' business rebuilding them. KLBurgess ps - Wish I could find that post....but here is an interesting one. Digest3335 #5. Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2003 14:18:42 -0400 From: "daanesh chanduwadia" <daanesh@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: MXX3 replacements/variable rack Tucker, I never heard anyone comment on this either, which is why I had to find out the hard way. The short of it is different tires have different responses or gain as you move away from center. Unidirectionals like the Dunlop 9000 and the Pilot Sport are slower in response and tend to be less linear as you increase the amount of lock. The gain of the car's steering system (rack ratio, caster, etc) combines with this tire gain to give the overall response, and when you combine the variable rack (slow around center and progressively quicker as you approach lock) with the variable nature of a unidirectional the results are - well let's just say that they're different than intended (some will no doubt swear their 95 is better without the MXX3s). The MXX3s were the only tire 3.0 M3s came on. Later, the MXX3 was phased out and the Pilot Sport took its place. The 3.2 car had a quicker rack around center so it was less of a problem, yet the first time I drove on Pilot Sports, I thought - "something's strange with the steering." The term unidirectional is perhaps too vague: the M5 steering feels sharper on the Dunlop 8080s than it does on Pilot Sports and you'll see that while the 8080 *is* a unidirectional, the blocks are arranged in rows, unlike the Pilot Sport which has the tread sweeping outward - the tire doesn't 'know where straight-ahead is' which i think is commonly referred to as self aligning torque. If you haven't driven your car on MXX3s or similar, try it. Sure you'll give up hydro resistance and the limit will be breached more suddenly but you'll feel more connected to what's happening at the contact patches, which for me is one of the principle joys of driving. I should add that it does depend on your priorities and how much you like a tire with lots of slip angle. I value steering precision and linearity above almost all else, which means to say I'm willing to give up some grip - especially in the wet - to get it. Which is why I'm on MXX3s again and will be on P Zero Neros or the new Pilot Sport next.
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#8. RE: Speaking of brakes - rear wear - from Burgess, Kim L
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Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2006 11:19:16 -0700 From: "Burgess, Kim L" <kim.l.burgess@boeing.com> Subject: RE: Speaking of brakes - rear wear It has been my experience on and off track that the rear pads wear two-to-three times as long as the front pads - but that's with stock suspension. I cannot imagine that suspension set-ups change things that much. I'd look at the calipers for stuck pistons, or dirty/stuck Guide Bushings or air in the front calipers/lines. ....but maybe this is particular to the Ferodo 2500 pads. KLB -------------------- 10 -------------------- Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2006 10:10:34 -0700 From: "Gus Iverson" <gus.iverson@gmail.com> Quick notes on car setup to start things off: TCK D/A Coilovers unsure on the rates (425 / 500?) Ferodo 2500 pads front and rear RA-1 track tires I'm seeing a lot more rear brake wear than I would expect with this car. Bear in mind that my previous track car, a 2001 Mustang Cobra with an admittedly fundamentally broken suspension, hardly used the rear brakes. Putting a track pad in the fronts and leaving a street pad in the rear (typically Hawk HPS) would do fine and the rear pads would last *for ever*. On my 98 M3/4 I'm seeing 5-7 events per set of front brake pads but only 3-4 events per set of rears. This seems remarkable to me. It's nice to see the rears get some use, but I'd still expect the fronts to wear out first. Thoughts? Symtomatic of some kind of problem? Should I just stop worrying and buy more pads? Thanks Gus 98 M3/4 91 325ix 72 Bronco
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Speaking of brakes - rear wear - from Carlos Lopez
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Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2006 14:21:21 -0400 From: "Carlos Lopez" <clopez98m3@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Speaking of brakes - rear wear On 9/27/06, debuhr@comcast.net <debuhr@comcast.net> wrote: > > >Are you running with traction control on? Dat'l do it... I don't believe that. On other cars perhaps but on the E36 M3 (and Neil can back this up) it doesn't apply the rear brakes above ~35mph. I tested this unknowingly when the car was new to me and I did an entire club race school weekend at VIR with the traction control on. :-/ I thought I was getting fuel starvation with a full tank of gas when all along it was the ASC cutting in on me in the corners. No significant rear pad wear, my rear calipers are rebuilt though so they work as they should. Solution to the ASC problem I took the damn thing off, it's useless pretty much. Carlos 98 M3 changing it to be more like a 95
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Re: Steering Rack? - from Mark Dadgar
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Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2006 11:22:19 -0700 From: Mark Dadgar <mark@pdc-racing.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Steering Rack? On Sep 27, 2006, at 6:26 AM, Neil Maller wrote: > on 9/27/06 12:36 AM, Mark Dadgar <mark@pdc-racing.net> wrote: > >> It [325i rack] will fit, but it's slower than an M3 rack (either M3). > > FWIW, RealOEM shows the 325i, 328i and M3 3.2 reman racks as all > the same: > P/N 32.13.1.096.280. Ahh, yeah, that's probably right after all. Now that I think about it, the '95 rack was the "special" one. BTW, the non-special rack is just fine. > It shows the M3 3.0 reman rack as P/N 32.13.2.227.191. The numeral > "2" in > the third group normally indicates an M-car unique part. Ooh, nice rack! - Mark ----- mark@pdc-racing.net Check out my JustRacing Home Page at: http://www.justracing.com/homepage/mdadgar
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#11. Re: [E36M3] Adhesive Suggestions? - from Christopher Bauer
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Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2006 13:23:41 -0500 From: Christopher Bauer <chrisbauer@vzavenue.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Adhesive Suggestions? I asked a guy in my office who works with adhesives a lot, and he said he would use contact cement. Chris ---- Original message ---- >Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2006 12:46:51 -0500 >From: "Michael Wylie" <mdwylie@ix.netcom.com> >for an instant and strong adhesive that will allow me to glue the >leatherette edges to the back of the panel as well as get the panel back >where it goes??? > >