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#1. Re: [E36M3] RE: Rack - from Gary
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Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2006 16:12:16 -0500 From: "Gary" <probikeguy@probikeusa.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: Rack Errrr.....are you saying I have a problem. Heck you should see all the spare motors ;-) Gary ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ahmad Lutfeali" <m3_racer99@hotmail.com> To: "'Gary'" <probikeguy@probikeusa.com>; "'E36M3'" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Wednesday, September 27, 2006 3:20 PM Subject: RE: [E36M3] RE: Rack > Gary, > > You amongst all people should STAY away from mods. 3 race cars in the > garage. Jeez. > > Yeah the Z3 has a slightly faster ratio. Nothing concrete or noticeable > especially on the road course. > > Ahmad > > -----Original Message----- > From: Gary [mailto:probikeguy@probikeusa.com] > Sent: Wednesday, September 27, 2006 3:51 PM > To: Ahmad Lutfeali; E36M3 > Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: Rack > > hmmm so the Z3 racks have a faster ratio? Interesting...That might be > cool... > > Gary > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Ahmad Lutfeali" <m3_racer99@hotmail.com> > To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> > Sent: Wednesday, September 27, 2006 8:46 AM > Subject: [E36M3] RE: Rack > > >> Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2006 09:37:43 -0400 >> From: "Ahmad Lutfeali" <m3_racer99@hotmail.com> >> Subject: RE: Rack >> >> I picked up a rack off of a 99 M3 with 50K miles for $150. May want to >> check >> with www.strictly-german.com They had some Z3 racks (faster ratio) for >> the >> same price (illegal in my class and hence had to let it go). >> >> Ahmad >> >> >> >> ************************************************* >> Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: >> >> Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com >> Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com >> Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com >> Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com >> Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com >> Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com >> >> DIGEST INFORMATION: >> http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm >> ************************************************* >> >> >> > > > >
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#2. RE: [E36M3] Soft Brakes - from Paul L Fisher
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Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2006 16:27:54 -0500 From: "Paul L Fisher" <bmw@paul-fisher.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Soft Brakes www.motiveproducts.com Had mine for several years and have bled over 100 cars with it. I can now do a BMW or VW in 30 minutes. A complete flush, not just a bleed. Paul L Fisher 2000 M Roadster E36/7 S52 Cosmos Black Metallic 1989 325ix E30 M20 Cinnabar Red Become a BMW CCA Member! Elkhorn, WI. -----Original Message----- From: Resener, Kurt [mailto:KurtResener@IamMorrison.com] Sent: Wednesday, September 27, 2006 7:57 AM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] Soft Brakes Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2006 07:47:44 -0500 From: "Resener, Kurt" <KurtResener@IamMorrison.com> Subject: Soft Brakes I'm starting to battle a soft brake pedal on my car. At my last track event I never had to actually pump the brakes to get it to stop, but it sure didn't start to take effect until the pedal was what felt like all the way down on the floor, which I've never experienced on this car. It was disconcerting to say the least as I would come into turn 7 at Mid Ohio, and as I plan on being back there at the end of October I need to address it. Calipers recently rebuilt, new pads all the way around, and brakes last bled by my mechanic a few months ago. No visible leaking at any wheels or master cylinder. I'm guessing I should start with bleeding the brakes, but I've never invested in a pressurized brake bleeder. What is the best brand/type out there that people are using nowadays? Kurt Resener Louisville, KY DISCLAIMER Important! This message is intended for the above named person(s) only and is CONFIDENTIAL AND PROPRIETARY. If you are not the intended recipient of this e-mail and have received it in error, please forward to postmaster@yourfoodservice.com with 'Received in Error' as the subject and then delete it from your mailbox. Accessing, copying or re-using any of the information contained in this e-mail by anyone other than the intended recipient is unauthorized. Thank you. ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm ************************************************* -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.405 / Virus Database: 268.12.9/457 - Release Date: 9/26/2006 -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.405 / Virus Database: 268.12.9/457 - Release Date: 9/26/2006
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#3. RE: [E36M3] Adhesive Suggestions? - from Alexander Fadeev
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Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2006 17:29:59 -0400 From: "Alexander Fadeev" <afadeev@smu.edu> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Adhesive Suggestions? Gorilla Glue. A few years back I went through 3 or 4 different glues, including epoxy, superglue, etc, on M3's rear passenger arm rest panel. All had backed out. I kid you not - that POS panel spent more than a month on the kitchen table. You don't want to know what my wife thought of my glue experiment. Two local body shops said they had tried everything, nothing worked and I should basically buy a new panel from the dealer. Than I saw the "cinder block handle" demo at Home Depot and bought Gorilla. I don't know what the Dutch are putting in that brew, but to my amazement, it worked! You will likely need C-clamps or weights to hold the two surfaces together for a few hours. Do NOT over-apply, as Gorilla Glue expands like a SOB. Well, you'll figure it out. alex f P.S.: Amsterdam, Koni shocks, Gorilla Glue, now Spyker F1 ... I'm beginning to really like the Dutch ;-) -----Original Message----- From: Jim Bassett [mailto:jim@jimbassett.com] Sent: Wednesday, September 27, 2006 1:57 PM To: E36M3 Subject: Re: [E36M3] Adhesive Suggestions? Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2006 10:53:36 -0700 (PDT) From: "Jim Bassett" <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Adhesive Suggestions? On Wed, September 27, 2006 10:46 am, Michael Wylie said: > Thanks for any suggestions! My first choice would be a general purpose two-part epoxy. A second choice would be Gorilla Glue - I just used some to re-attach the rubber pad to the HF jack, worked well. Cheers, Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4 - separating glove box door will need similar repair 1993 325is #44 JP
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#4. Colgan vs OE Nosemask/Bra - from estorilphil@adelphia.net
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Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2006 15:21:05 -0700 From: <estorilphil@adelphia.net> Subject: Colgan vs OE Nosemask/Bra After the last car wash, I decided it's time to retire for good the 7yo Colgan nose mask. Which btw, that clay bar is great! The clayed surfaces is so smooth it's unbelievable... Anyway, anyone has factory nosemask out there? If so, got any picture to share? What about fitment? Just trying to gather more data before I get the Colgan nose mask again. Thanks... Phil '99 M3/2 '96 Suburban
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#5. What Koni SA settings are you running? - from Dave Thomas
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Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2006 20:39:08 -0700 From: Dave Thomas <dave@sasdatalink.com> Subject: What Koni SA settings are you running? I picked up a set of Koni SA's with H&R OE Sport springs from a fellow list member (thanks Tom) and have been playing around with it quite a bit. Very nice setup. Just wondering...what are most of you with the SA's running for adjustment on the street? I have been running 1 to 1.5 turns from full soft on the front and one full turn from full soft on the rears and it seems pretty good, but I have not had a chance to really push the car yet, so I am still kinda guessing. How do you run yours? Dave
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#6. Re: [E36M3] What Koni SA settings are you running? - from Jeff Conner
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Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2006 21:18:12 -0700 (PDT) From: Jeff Conner <jeff.conner@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] What Koni SA settings are you running? Dave, The settings depend on the use, for me Street - 1.5 turns from full stiff front & back - I'm still not completely solid on my street setting, so it's a work in progress Autocross - full stiff front, .5 turn from full stiff rear Track - 1/2 turn from full stiff front, 3/4 turn from full stiff rear You also need to take into account that I'm pretty much a noob with all of this, and the my autocross setting is the one I feel completely confident about. good luck, I'm sure you'll get answers from more experienced people than me... -jeff 98 ///Sedan - still searching for the perfect street setting Dave Thomas <dave@sasdatalink.com> wrote: Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2006 20:39:08 -0700 From: Dave Thomas Subject: What Koni SA settings are you running? I picked up a set of Koni SA's with H&R OE Sport springs from a fellow list member (thanks Tom) and have been playing around with it quite a bit. Very nice setup. Just wondering...what are most of you with the SA's running for adjustment on the street? I have been running 1 to 1.5 turns from full soft on the front and one full turn from full soft on the rears and it seems pretty good, but I have not had a chance to really push the car yet, so I am still kinda guessing. How do you run yours? Dave ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm ************************************************* --------------------------------- All-new Yahoo! Mail - Fire up a more powerful email and get things done faster.
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#7. Re: [E36M3] What Koni SA settings are you running? - from Jay Hudson
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Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2006 21:25:22 -0700 From: "Jay Hudson" <jwhud@budget.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] What Koni SA settings are you running? I used to run that setup. I'd say a little more rebound in the rear than the front. And, always make your adjustments from full stiff, not full soft. Jay > Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2006 20:39:08 -0700 > From: Dave Thomas <dave@sasdatalink.com> > Subject: What Koni SA settings are you running? > > > I picked up a set of Koni SA's with H&R OE Sport springs from a fellow > list > member (thanks Tom) and have been playing around with it quite a bit. Very > nice setup. Just wondering...what are most of you with the SA's running > for > adjustment on the street? I have been running 1 to 1.5 turns from full > soft > on the front and one full turn from full soft on the rears and it seems > pretty good, but I have not had a chance to really push the car yet, so I > am > still kinda guessing. How do you run yours? > > Dave
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#8. RE: [E36M3] Speaking of brakes - rear wear - from Dave DeBuhr
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Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2006 21:53:45 -0700 From: "Dave DeBuhr" <debuhr@comcast.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Speaking of brakes - rear wear From this link http://www.geocities.com/bmw_1999_m3/199905112a.html I found this quote where it says the rear brakes are applied up to 100 km/h: -----Original Message----- From: Carlos Lopez [mailto:clopez98m3@gmail.com] Sent: Wednesday, September 27, 2006 11:21 AM To: debuhr@comcast.net Cc: E36M3 Subject: Re: [E36M3] Speaking of brakes - rear wear On 9/27/06, debuhr@comcast.net <debuhr@comcast.net> wrote: >Are you running with traction control on? Dat'l do it... I don't believe that. On other cars perhaps but on the E36 M3 (and Neil can back this up) it doesn't apply the rear brakes above ~35mph. I tested this unknowingly when the car was new to me and I did an entire club race school weekend at VIR with the traction control on. :-/ I thought I was getting fuel starvation with a full tank of gas when all along it was the ASC cutting in on me in the corners. No significant rear pad wear, my rear calipers are rebuilt though so they work as they should. Solution to the ASC problem I took the damn thing off, it's useless pretty much. Carlos 98 M3 changing it to be more like a 95
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#9. RE: [E36M3] Speaking of brakes - rear wear - from Dave DeBuhr
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Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2006 21:56:14 -0700 From: "Dave DeBuhr" <debuhr@comcast.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Speaking of brakes - rear wear From this link http://www.geocities.com/bmw_1999_m3/199905112a.html I found this quote where it says the rear brakes are applied up to 100 km/h: However, he said he drives with it off, so a moot point, I guess. If you are into traction control a lot, it absolutely wears the rear brakes. 4 Channel, 4 Sensor Anti-lock Braking System (ABS) and 4 wheel ventilated disk brakes guarantee a superb stopping power and ASC+T All Season Traction Control ,uniquely combined with a mechanical Limited Slip ensures more reliable traction and retention of the chosen line when accelerating in a straight line or on a corner. How does it work? ASC+T reduces engine torque as soon as a wheel tends to spin, for instance, on a sheet of ice. If this action is not sufficient to restore tire grip, the T function (traction control) takes over and the wheel brake is applied, provided that road speed is not above 100 km/h. Torque is reduced by the engine's own management system. In this way, ASC+T keeps the car as stable as possible on all surfaces and in critical driving situations. The system includes engine drag torque regulation, to prevent the driven wheels from locking momentarily on a slippery surface if the level of engine braking becomes too high. Up to a speed of 40 km/h, traction control has the same effect as a conventional limited-slip differential. Since the left and right wheels can be braked independently, ASC+T is comparable to one of these devices with a locking action of almost 100 percent. But it can be switched off in unusual situations where complete suppression of wheel spin may be undesirable, for instance when rocking the car free on a soft, yielding surface. -----Original Message----- From: Carlos Lopez [mailto:clopez98m3@gmail.com] Sent: Wednesday, September 27, 2006 11:21 AM To: debuhr@comcast.net Cc: E36M3 Subject: Re: [E36M3] Speaking of brakes - rear wear On 9/27/06, debuhr@comcast.net <debuhr@comcast.net> wrote: >Are you running with traction control on? Dat'l do it... I don't believe that. On other cars perhaps but on the E36 M3 (and Neil can back this up) it doesn't apply the rear brakes above ~35mph. I tested this unknowingly when the car was new to me and I did an entire club race school weekend at VIR with the traction control on. :-/ I thought I was getting fuel starvation with a full tank of gas when all along it was the ASC cutting in on me in the corners. No significant rear pad wear, my rear calipers are rebuilt though so they work as they should. Solution to the ASC problem I took the damn thing off, it's useless pretty much. Carlos 98 M3 changing it to be more like a 95
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Adhesive Suggestions? - from Brian Ruiz
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Date: Thu, 28 Sep 2006 02:20:29 -0700 From: "Brian Ruiz" <eurowerke@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Adhesive Suggestions? I'll second (Jim's second choice vote doesn't count ;)) the Gorilla Glue. Worked like a charm to reglue the plastic frame pieces and door pocket on the back side of my passenger side front door panel a few months back. But yes, it does have to set up in a clamped position, and yes, it does expand quite a bit, so be careful to clean up the excess before leaving the panel to dry (don't want to glue the clamps to it!). Be careful with the clamps as well, as they may leave permanent indentations into the leatherette. Pad up the clamp with rags or a thin piece of wood (like from a paint stirring stick or a few pieces of door/window mounting shim) to spread the clamping force over a larger area and prevent the indentations from setting in. Even so, you may still get a couple small spots where the clamp seemed to push the leather in, but they should fall right out after a while. Rub it to warm it up after finishing, and they should come out. Then again, if the part you are gluing is far in from a clampable edge, you can't really use clamps! :-P I will also repeat saying to USE SPARINGLY. You just need to lightly coat the surface you are gluing. Put a dab and spread it with a popsicle stick or the like, then apply your chosen method of clamping/weighing down/holding-in-some-fashion. HTH, 2 more cents, Brian build 8/95 On 9/27/06, Alexander Fadeev wrote: > Gorilla Glue. > > -----Original Message----- > From: Jim Bassett > Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2006 10:53:36 -0700 (PDT) > From: "Jim Bassett" <jim@jimbassett.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Adhesive Suggestions? > > My first choice would be a general purpose two-part epoxy. A second choice > would be Gorilla Glue - I just used some to re-attach the rubber pad to > the HF jack, worked well. > > Cheers, > Jim Bassett >