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#1. Re: [E36M3] Sway Bar Recommendations with H&R Coil Overs? - from Jay Hudson
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Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2006 17:18:03 -0700 From: "Jay Hudson" <jwhud@budget.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Sway Bar Recommendations with H&R Coil Overs? I have the old RDs with 27mm front and 22mm rear. Not long after I bought mine RD went to a 24mm rear bar. I'm glad I have the smaller bar but even it's too big for me these days since I have pretty stiff rear springs (700lbs). Turner sells a set that has 27/24mm bars. Of the ones you mentioned, I think any would be fine except the Dinan bars. My sense is that Dinan doesn't really get too aggressive with their stuff. You know your spring rates will affect body roll, yes? Do you live in the northwest? I'm in Grants Pass, OR. Jay > Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2006 16:37:00 -0700 > From: "drb, esq." <dr.bento@gmail.com> > Subject: Sway Bar Recommendations with H&R Coil Overs? > > I recently purchased my first BMW, a 1995 M3 track car/daily driver > developed by a Pacific Northwest driver. The car has an H&R coil over > suspension already installed on it along with an X brace and a bolt > out four point roll bar. I feel that the suspension is good, but > there is too much body roll in my opinion. I am planning on replacing > the rear trailing arm bushings with the Powerflex RATB as this is only > suspension component that requires attnetion. In the course of > researching dialing in the car I have investigated various sway bar > options and I have seen numerous recommendations. Options as I see it > include Dinan, Eibach, UUC and the old Racing Dynamics bars (I'm not > sure if these are still available). > > Another List memeber has offered me a set of freebie Dinan bars, but > I'm not sure how these will match up with the spring rates of the H&R > coil over set up. Free is good though. > > I plan on driving the car daily to and from work (approximately 80 > miles round trip) and DEing it with NASA and BMWCCA. I like a firm > suspension (I used to have a bone jarring older Carrera), but I must > admit I like the compliance of the H&R set up. > > I appreciate all recommendations. > > David Benett > > -- > Look, I don't want to wax philosophic, but I will say that if you're > alive you've got to flap your arms and legs, you've got to jump around > a lot, for life is the very opposite of death, and therefore you must > at very least think noisy and colorfully, or you're not alive. > > -Mel Brooks > >
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#2. Re: New UUC Wilwood Brake Kit - from Dat Quach
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Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2006 22:34:48 -0500 From: "Dat Quach" <quachd@gmail.com> Subject: Re: New UUC Wilwood Brake Kit on 10/2/06 5:41 PM, "Neil Maller" <neil.maller@gte.net> wrote: > The 332mm rotor size of the ST kit contains a hidden gotcha in the sense > that BMW OE wheels have a special dropped well profile in the outer area of > the rim. This reduces radial clearance to the caliper and means that no OE > 17" wheels are likely to fit without mammoth front spacers, at least 25mm > and maybe 30mm, depending on which wheel pattern. <SNIP> I also run the StopTech 332mm front kit on my '97 M3 coupe with the stock DS2 wheels. I have to run 20mm spacers in order to clear the brake calipers. I've only had the kit on the car for two weeks, but it won't be tested on track until a DE in November. Dat Hook 'Em!
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#3. RE: New UUC Wilwood Brake Kit - from William Townsend
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Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2006 09:46:29 -0400 From: "William Townsend" <wtownsend@juniper.net> Subject: RE: New UUC Wilwood Brake Kit Thanks for the write up Neil. Yea there are a bunch of my friends up here in the NE tracks looking into this. We are still tossing it around. I do feel your assessment of the two kits is dead on. The ST is for serious track use, the UUC would be good if you want the street/track setup. I have the Kosei's and do not want to use spacers on the car. Glad to hear the ST kit fits without spacers or 18" rims... The spacers and bigger rims was going to be a deterrent for me.. The uuc has the single center bridge bolt that retains the pads and stiffens the caliper. I did not know there was a bridge bolt in the ST caliper. I can't see it from the pictures. So what made you do the rears? Was just the front not enough? I have been thinking front only.... Did you get the finned hats too? ST makes hats with external fins to blow air over the outer friction disk. Now if I could get a group buy on it, I think all of us that are just talking may do some spending. ====== Neil's ST write up removed ====== --Bill 96 M3 red
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#4. Re: [E36M3] RE: New UUC Wilwood Brake Kit - from Chester Wong
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Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2006 07:54:40 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: New UUC Wilwood Brake Kit --- William Townsend <wtownsend@juniper.net> wrote: > Thanks for the write up Neil. Yea there are a bunch of my friends up > here in the NE tracks looking into this. We are still tossing it around.. > I do feel your assessment of the two kits is dead on. The ST is for > serious track use, the UUC would be good if you want the street/track > setup. If the ST or brembo kits are for serious track, then for street/track, why wouldn't stockers work perfectly fine? I've had no issues so far with stock brakes with track pads. Of course, I did have the movit kits on the car at one time, but they absolutely sucked. Chester
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#5. So the magic chicken dance found... - from William Townsend
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Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2006 10:55:52 -0400 From: "William Townsend" <wtownsend@juniper.net> Subject: So the magic chicken dance found... The aftermath of dropping my keyless entry remote in a runoff drain at WGI involved disassembling drying it out and reassembly. Now the alarm in the car did not recognize the remote. It needs to be reprogrammed to accept the remote again. This also happens if you take too long to replace the battery or the battery dies. Below is what worked for my 96 M3 keyless entry: 1. Open the car doors using the remote function of your working key. (I had the other key fob and it still worked) 2. Get in and close (don't lock) all the doors. 3. Put the key in the ignition and switch momentarily to position 1 which is the first position when you turn the key clockwise. This is the accessory position. Don't stay in position 1 longer than 5 seconds; then turn the key back to the off position. 4. Remove the key. 5. Within 15 sec, on the key transmitter (the one to be reprogrammed), press and hold the unlock button. Press and release the lock button three times within 10 seconds while still pressing the unlock button. 6. release the unlock button. Some say the car acknowledges the programming by locking and immediately unlocking the door locks but mine did not. It took two tries to get it to work but it did work. --Bill 96 M3 red
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#6. RE: New UUC Wilwood Brake Kit - from William Townsend
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Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2006 11:00:17 -0400 From: "William Townsend" <wtownsend@juniper.net> Subject: RE: New UUC Wilwood Brake Kit I have some friends looking to get more out of the brakes at the track but still use their car on the street and like the look of the street wheels. Makes sense if you want both. The track pads for the willwood caliper are much cheaper than the factory profile pads too!!! > -----Original Message----- > From: Chester Wong [mailto:chester_p_wong@yahoo.com] > Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2006 10:55 AM > To: William Townsend; E36M3 > Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: New UUC Wilwood Brake Kit > > > > --- William Townsend <wtownsend@juniper.net> wrote: > > Thanks for the write up Neil. Yea there are a bunch of my friends up > > here in the NE tracks looking into this. We are still tossing it around. > > I do feel your assessment of the two kits is dead on. The ST is for > > serious track use, the UUC would be good if you want the street/track > > setup. > > If the ST or brembo kits are for serious track, then for street/track, why > wouldn't stockers work perfectly fine? I've had no issues so far with > stock > brakes with track pads. Of course, I did have the movit kits on the car > at one > time, but they absolutely sucked. > > Chester
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#7. RE: [E36M3] Re: Carpet swap - from Mike Frank
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Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2006 12:05:29 -0400 From: "Mike Frank" <mfrank28@insightbb.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Re: Carpet swap I will second what Walter wrote, except possibly the part about removing the steering wheel. He pretty much hit the high points. Regarding interior pieces, I pulled everything except the upper/main part of the dash and the rear seatbacks. As a bonus, having the interior removed made stereo, gauge kit, microfilter, etc. work much easier. One thing I didn't see mentioned is that the gas pedal is attached to the floor through a slit in the carpeting. If you have the time and the patience you should be alright, but it's definitely not a small job. You'll wish you had four hands when you're trying to wrestle the new one in place. Have someone help you. Plan on breaking at least one trim piece & losing some screws/fasteners. Personally, I can't think of an e36 M3 interior color that would make me go through all the work to change out everything. Good Luck, Mike Frank 97 M3 > -----Original Message----- > From: Walter Jordan [mailto:m3gtr@adelphia.net] > Sent: Monday, October 02, 2006 12:57 PM > To: E36M3 > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Carpet swap > > Date: Mon, 02 Oct 2006 12:47:37 -0400 > From: Walter Jordan <m3gtr@adelphia.net> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Carpet swap > > While gutting my car I learned a few things about BMW carpeting. > > 1) It is very heavy > 2) It is uncooperative > 3) It is installed before the heater box > 4) It is not just carpeting but carpeting, thick foam, and rigid plastic > "bones" to shape it. > > In order to replace it you will need to cut the old one to get it out > and the new one to put it in (or remove the heater box... which will add > about 9hrs to the job). A couple small slices where the drain plumbing > goes thru to the transmission tunnel will free it up - they will be > hidden from view by the console anyway. > > Were I trying this job I would pull out every single interior trim piece > that touches carpet, the seats, and the steering wheel. It was a bear > just trying to remove the old one without damaging it - putting the new > one in will require patience to fit it up under the pedals and seat all > the formed sections in the correct place. > > I managed to sell my old carpet very quickly on ebay so there is > at-least one person other than you who was planning to try this ;) > > -- > Walter > ************************************************
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#8. RE: [e36m3] Re: [E36M3] RE: New UUC Wilwood Brake Kit - from Marco
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Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2006 09:37:15 -0700 From: "Marco" <m3driver@iname.com> Subject: RE: [e36m3] Re: [E36M3] RE: New UUC Wilwood Brake Kit ;-) I've been running stock brakes with race pads for years in Club Racing. And running up front. Maybe my lap times would improve with a big brake kit but I'm not convinced. I switched to slicks this year and even with slicks the stock calipers feel fine. I can find places to blow a few grand in other places like CF body panels, which have the benefit of lightening the car and indirectly helping with the braking issue. Good cooling is the key. Hell and in my case big brakes will probably just make me go slower ;-) Marco -----Original Message----- From: Chester Wong [mailto:chester_p_wong@yahoo.com] Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2006 7:57 AM To: E36M3 Subject: [e36m3] Re: [E36M3] RE: New UUC Wilwood Brake Kit Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2006 07:54:40 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: New UUC Wilwood Brake Kit --- William Townsend <wtownsend@juniper.net> wrote: > Thanks for the write up Neil. Yea there are a bunch of my friends up > here in the NE tracks looking into this. We are still tossing it > around.. I do feel your assessment of the two kits is dead on. The ST > is for serious track use, the UUC would be good if you want the > street/track setup. If the ST or brembo kits are for serious track, then for street/track, why wouldn't stockers work perfectly fine? I've had no issues so far with stock brakes with track pads. Of course, I did have the movit kits on the car at one time, but they absolutely sucked. Chester ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#9. RE: [E36M3] Re: Carpet swap - from Rex Tener
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Date: Tue, 03 Oct 2006 09:44:13 -0700 From: Rex Tener <rex_tener@yahoo.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Re: Carpet swap At 09:06 AM 10/3/2006, Mike Frank wrote: >If you have the time and the patience you should be alright, but it's >definitely not a small job. Thanks everyone for all the advice. >Personally, I can't think of an e36 M3 interior color that would make me go >through all the work to change out everything. At the moment it is more of a backup plan. If I get the car and after a few months I can not live with the interior color I will probably swap it. Rex
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#10. Re: [e36m3] Re: [E36M3] RE: New UUC Wilwood Brake Kit - from Jamie Howton
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Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2006 13:25:24 -0500 From: "Jamie Howton" <jhowton@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [e36m3] Re: [E36M3] RE: New UUC Wilwood Brake Kit > I've been running stock brakes with race pads for years in Club Racing. And > running up front. Maybe my lap times would improve with a big brake kit but > I'm not convinced. Personally I agree with Marco. I run stock rotors (Euro floaters in the front) and calipers with Hawk HT-10 or HT-14s and have had no problem on track with the stock brake ducting. I have a hard time imagining what you gain with bigger brakes because I am able to engage ABS without an issue now, even running Hoosier R6s. The stock brake calipers do need rebuilding annually because the dust boots dry out and crack, so maybe that is the real benefit of "big brakes" on the track. -- Jamie Howton 2006 M Roadster 2000 M5 1995 M3 Hampshire, IL