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#1. Re: SRS - passenger occupancy sensor - from Neil Maller
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Date: Sat, 14 Oct 2006 09:28:03 -0400 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: SRS - passenger occupancy sensor on 10/14/06 1:26 AM, "Jim Bassett" <jim@jimbassett.com> wrote: > Working with the hog-rings is a bit of a PITA, but not undoable. On the > previous 328is and the current M3/4 I've removed half of the seat back > cover to add some extra lumbar padding. Having some hog-ring pliers may > have lessened the swearing <g>, but I was able to work with a good pair of > regular pliers. Eastwood sells hog rings and hog ring pliers for small money, see: <http://eastwood.resultspage.com/search?p=Q&ts=custom&w=hog+ring&submit.x=0& submit.y=0&submit=Search>. These guys are a good source for restoration type tools and supplies. Neil Fort Wayne, IN 96 M3 - Bastard child 03 525iT - Sterling Grey Metallic 05 Mini - Cooper S with LSD
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#2. Seat Heat - Fixed - from david kroth
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Date: Sat, 14 Oct 2006 17:33:25 -0700 (PDT) From: david kroth <david_kroth@yahoo.com> Subject: Seat Heat - Fixed In the middle of winter 2004 my driver's seat bottom heater quit. I went all last winter with cold buns. This past spring I bought the parts to fix it and finally got around to doing it this weekend (reference news stories about Buffalo getting buried in early season snow). I have powered sport style seats. Parts required: 64 11 8 353 027 Heating element - sport seat $45.57 52 10 8 130 678 seat clips/clamp 2 @ 0.09 52 10 1 945 543 wire clamp 20 @ 0.05 Here's how I did it: - Remove seat from car. I raised the seat to the highest position figuring I'd need access to the bottom bits of the seat. - Remove plastic cover on bottom back of seat - 1 torx screw. - Remove 2 torx screws holding the front of the seat bottom in place. - Break off two plastic one-way fasteners that hold the rear of the seat bottom in place. See part 678 above. - Release seat bottom wiring connector from cluster. - Flip the seat bottom forward and remove four torx screws securing the adjustable thigh support mechanism. - With the seat bottom now on the bench, remove the edges of the leather from the retaining prongs. - Peel the leather back and cut the hog rings that hold the center part of the seat to the cushion. There are about 12 or 14 of these - I didn't count them. I left the thigh support attached to the seat cover. It was sort of a pain working like that, but I didn't want to mess with getting the leather off/on the thigh support. - With the leather off, remove all the little pieces of clipped hog ring and the other half of the 678 plastic pins. - Install the new heating element making sure to put the wire on the correct side of the cushion. - Use new hog rings (part 543) and your hog ring pliers to clip the leather cover back in place. Carefully tuck and stretch both the leather and the heating element so everything is smooth and tight. - Stretch the leather and pull it back over the pegs that hold the edges in place. - Put new plastic clips (678) in place and snap the bottom into the seat structure. Replace the two retaining torx screws. - Clip the wiring connectors back into the cluster under the seat. - Replace the seat mechanism cover. - Install the seat in the car. The whole job took me about 2.5 hours from clean hands to clean hands. I have to admit that when I started cutting the hog rings I was asking myself WTF I got myself into. I didn't think there was any way I was ever going to get it back together. But the hog rings were pretty simple to get back in place. I just did one at a time making sure everything was right before crimping it in place. Now that it's all done I'm glad I did it myself. It's one of those pain-in-the-ass jobs like changing the brake light switch. Overall it's not too complex. I just had to work slowly and keep reminding myself how much $$ I was saving doing it myself. Next project: installing that CD43 that I've had sitting in the basement for 9 months... David Kroth david_kroth@yahoo.com __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com
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#3. RE: [E36M3] Seat Heat - Fixed - from Paul L Fisher
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Date: Sat, 14 Oct 2006 19:53:02 -0500 From: "Paul L Fisher" <bmw@paul-fisher.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Seat Heat - Fixed Nice write-up! I have spare parts in the garage waiting for me to get motivated as well. Paul L Fisher 2000 M Roadster E36/7 S52 Cosmos Black Metallic 1989 325ix E30 M20 Cinnabar Red Become a BMW CCA Member! Elkhorn, WI. -----Original Message----- From: david kroth [mailto:david_kroth@yahoo.com] Sent: Saturday, October 14, 2006 7:36 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] Seat Heat - Fixed Date: Sat, 14 Oct 2006 17:33:25 -0700 (PDT) From: david kroth <david_kroth@yahoo.com> Subject: Seat Heat - Fixed In the middle of winter 2004 my driver's seat bottom heater quit. I went all last winter with cold buns. This past spring I bought the parts to fix it and finally got around to doing it this weekend (reference news stories about Buffalo getting buried in early season snow). I have powered sport style seats. Parts required: 64 11 8 353 027 Heating element - sport seat $45.57 52 10 8 130 678 seat clips/clamp 2 @ 0.09 52 10 1 945 543 wire clamp 20 @ 0.05 Here's how I did it: - Remove seat from car. I raised the seat to the highest position figuring I'd need access to the bottom bits of the seat. - Remove plastic cover on bottom back of seat - 1 torx screw. - Remove 2 torx screws holding the front of the seat bottom in place. - Break off two plastic one-way fasteners that hold the rear of the seat bottom in place. See part 678 above. - Release seat bottom wiring connector from cluster. - Flip the seat bottom forward and remove four torx screws securing the adjustable thigh support mechanism. - With the seat bottom now on the bench, remove the edges of the leather from the retaining prongs. - Peel the leather back and cut the hog rings that hold the center part of the seat to the cushion. There are about 12 or 14 of these - I didn't count them. I left the thigh support attached to the seat cover. It was sort of a pain working like that, but I didn't want to mess with getting the leather off/on the thigh support. - With the leather off, remove all the little pieces of clipped hog ring and the other half of the 678 plastic pins. - Install the new heating element making sure to put the wire on the correct side of the cushion. - Use new hog rings (part 543) and your hog ring pliers to clip the leather cover back in place. Carefully tuck and stretch both the leather and the heating element so everything is smooth and tight. - Stretch the leather and pull it back over the pegs that hold the edges in place. - Put new plastic clips (678) in place and snap the bottom into the seat structure. Replace the two retaining torx screws. - Clip the wiring connectors back into the cluster under the seat. - Replace the seat mechanism cover. - Install the seat in the car. The whole job took me about 2.5 hours from clean hands to clean hands. I have to admit that when I started cutting the hog rings I was asking myself WTF I got myself into. I didn't think there was any way I was ever going to get it back together. But the hog rings were pretty simple to get back in place. I just did one at a time making sure everything was right before crimping it in place. Now that it's all done I'm glad I did it myself. It's one of those pain-in-the-ass jobs like changing the brake light switch. Overall it's not too complex. I just had to work slowly and keep reminding myself how much $$ I was saving doing it myself. Next project: installing that CD43 that I've had sitting in the basement for 9 months... David Kroth david_kroth@yahoo.com -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.408 / Virus Database: 268.13.4/475 - Release Date: 10/13/2006
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#4. Control Arm Bushings... - from Dave Arnold
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Date: Sun, 15 Oct 2006 14:49:13 -0400 From: "Dave Arnold" <air2daa@insightbb.com> Subject: Control Arm Bushings... Ok, I want to get some group input in on my problem. This past week while replacing the motor mount bushings I discovered that I had a cracked motor mount, so I ordered the reinforcement kit, pulled the front end apart and welded it all up and put back in this weekend. Pretty straight forward and all is well. However, now that I'm putting the control arms back onto the car, the right one is just spinning and I can't get it tightened down. Does anyone have any tips on how to get this from spinning in order to tighten up to specs? 'm wondering if I put the car back onto the ground if the weight will keep is from spinning but haven't tried that yet. Now onto my second problem, while trying to get the left control arm off of the car with the pickle fork, I tore the boot on the bushing. Now I'm trying to put it back together with some Blue RTV silicon, but this is more than a nick and would feel more comfortable replacing either the boot or the whole bushing insert. However, not having done this before and having some limited time to get all of this done I'm open to suggestions. Is there a source for the bushing covers? Should I just replace the bushing and if so what special tools do I need to do this? Also, what is the proper tool for getting the control arms off in the first place so I don't have to use the pickle pork thing and run into the again. Thanks again, Dave
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#5. OT, RX-8 - from Carey Probst
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Date: Sun, 15 Oct 2006 15:44:04 -0400 From: Carey Probst <hcprobst@alum.mit.edu> Subject: OT, RX-8 Anybody here either have an RX-8 or know of an RX-8 mailing list? My wife just got one and on reading the manual there are some "interesting" requirements. Please contact me off list. thanks Carey -- Carey Probst Member, M.I.T. Educational Council Perm: hcprobst@alum.mit.edu A well regulated militia being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear arms shall not be infringed.
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#6. RE: [e36m3] [E36M3] Control Arm Bushings... - from Marco
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Date: Sun, 15 Oct 2006 13:09:51 -0700 From: "Marco" <m3driver@iname.com> Subject: RE: [e36m3] [E36M3] Control Arm Bushings... Yes putting some weight on the car should help with the tightening issue. I typically put a jack under the control arm where the stud is and put a some pressure on it that way. I think M3 bushings on the control arms are integral to the unit and not replaceable. But I could be wrong. To prevent the tear next time - just whack the control arm near the bushing with a hand held sledge a few time. Typically one good whack will drop it right out. Not sure if you track the car much, but if they are original control arms they are probably due for replacement. A broken control arm can ruin your whole day at the track. Marco -----Original Message----- From: Dave Arnold [mailto:air2daa@insightbb.com] Sent: Sunday, October 15, 2006 11:56 AM To: E36M3 Subject: [e36m3] [E36M3] Control Arm Bushings... Date: Sun, 15 Oct 2006 14:49:13 -0400 From: "Dave Arnold" <air2daa@insightbb.com> Subject: Control Arm Bushings... Ok, I want to get some group input in on my problem. This past week while replacing the motor mount bushings I discovered that I had a cracked motor mount, so I ordered the reinforcement kit, pulled the front end apart and welded it all up and put back in this weekend. Pretty straight forward and all is well. However, now that I'm putting the control arms back onto the car, the right one is just spinning and I can't get it tightened down. Does anyone have any tips on how to get this from spinning in order to tighten up to specs? 'm wondering if I put the car back onto the ground if the weight will keep is from spinning but haven't tried that yet. Now onto my second problem, while trying to get the left control arm off of the car with the pickle fork, I tore the boot on the bushing. Now I'm trying to put it back together with some Blue RTV silicon, but this is more than a nick and would feel more comfortable replacing either the boot or the whole bushing insert. However, not having done this before and having some limited time to get all of this done I'm open to suggestions. Is there a source for the bushing covers? Should I just replace the bushing and if so what special tools do I need to do this? Also, what is the proper tool for getting the control arms off in the first place so I don't have to use the pickle pork thing and run into the again. Thanks again, Dave ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#7. resetting service indicator - from david tow
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Date: Sun, 15 Oct 2006 16:17:04 -0700 From: "david tow" <david_tow@hotmail.com> Subject: resetting service indicator Hi, all, This is my first time to perform my own oil change on my 2003 325iT. Cannot seem to reset my service indicator following www.bimmerdiy.com instructions. According to the instructions, I am supposed to hold down the odometer button on the left with the "accesory" light on position, etc. Tried it and did not seem to work. Could someone help me with this? Thank you so very much! David _________________________________________________________________ Express yourself - download free Windows Live Messenger themes! http://clk.atdmt.com/MSN/go/msnnkwme0020000001msn/direct/01/?href=http://imagine-msn.com/themes/vibe/default.aspx?locale=en-us&source=hmtagline
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#8. Uh oh: Engine boom... - from chipmitchell@gmail.com
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Date: Sun, 15 Oct 2006 19:23:44 -0400 From: "chipmitchell@gmail.com" <chipmitchell@gmail.com> Subject: Uh oh: Engine boom... I just finished my second head-gasket job in a few weeks - apparently i dinged the gasket the first time around and the car ran hot (ran great until it got up to temp). This time around, I've just cranked the car with much worse results. The car will not idle correctly; it revs from about 2000 rpm to almost stalling on about 1/2 second intervals. Then, ever 10 or 20 seconds, there is a "boom" or "thunk" from somewhere low in the engine. My best guess sounds like it is under the intake manifold somewhere; can't tell how far down. The car throws a 1215 code. Any suggestions for next place to look?
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#9. Re: Uh oh: Engine boom... - from chipmitchell@gmail.com
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Date: Sun, 15 Oct 2006 20:28:27 -0400 From: "chipmitchell@gmail.com" <chipmitchell@gmail.com> Subject: Re: Uh oh: Engine boom... Nevermind. That problem was a loose intake hose. On 10/15/06, chipmitchell@gmail.com <chipmitchell@gmail.com> wrote: > I just finished my second head-gasket job in a few weeks - apparently > i dinged the gasket the first time around and the car ran hot (ran > great until it got up to temp). > > This time around, I've just cranked the car with much worse results. > The car will not idle correctly; it revs from about 2000 rpm to almost > stalling on about 1/2 second intervals. Then, ever 10 or 20 seconds, > there is a "boom" or "thunk" from somewhere low in the engine. My > best guess sounds like it is under the intake manifold somewhere; > can't tell how far down. The car throws a 1215 code. > > Any suggestions for next place to look? >
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Re: Uh oh: Engine boom... - from Jon@treehouseracing.com
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Date: Sun, 15 Oct 2006 20:16:10 -0500 From: "Jon@treehouseracing.com" <jon@treehouseracing.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Uh oh: Engine boom... the loose intake hose is usually a result of a backfire (the "boom" you heard) Jon ______________________________________________ Jon Siccardi - DM #053 #052- Retired TreehouseRacing.com M50conversion.com 615.333.9118 ______________________________________________ ----- Original Message ----- From: <chipmitchell@gmail.com> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Sunday, October 15, 2006 7:36 PM Subject: [E36M3] Re: Uh oh: Engine boom... > Date: Sun, 15 Oct 2006 20:28:27 -0400 > From: "chipmitchell@gmail.com" <chipmitchell@gmail.com> > Subject: Re: Uh oh: Engine boom... > > Nevermind. That problem was a loose intake hose. > > On 10/15/06, chipmitchell@gmail.com <chipmitchell@gmail.com> wrote: >> I just finished my second head-gasket job in a few weeks - apparently >> i dinged the gasket the first time around and the car ran hot (ran >> great until it got up to temp). >> >> This time around, I've just cranked the car with much worse results. >> The car will not idle correctly; it revs from about 2000 rpm to almost >> stalling on about 1/2 second intervals. Then, ever 10 or 20 seconds, >> there is a "boom" or "thunk" from somewhere low in the engine. My >> best guess sounds like it is under the intake manifold somewhere; >> can't tell how far down. The car throws a 1215 code. >> >> Any suggestions for next place to look? >> > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > >