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#1. Control Arm Bushings... - from Rich Dorffer
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Date: Sun, 15 Oct 2006 21:40:01 -0400 From: "Rich Dorffer" <E36M3Digest@gmail.com> Subject: Control Arm Bushings... > From: "Dave Arnold" <air2daa@insightbb.com> > Subject: Control Arm Bushings... > > However, now that I'm putting the control arms back onto the > car, the right one is just spinning and I can't get it tightened down. Does > anyone have any tips on how to get this from spinning in order to tighten up > to specs? 'm wondering if I put the car back onto the ground if the weight > will keep is from spinning but haven't tried that yet. Simple, all you have to do is use a jack to put pressure below the ball joint. > Now onto my second problem, while trying to get the left control arm off of > the car with the pickle fork, I tore the boot on the bushing. Now I'm > trying to put it back together with some Blue RTV silicon, but this is more > than a nick and would feel more comfortable replacing either the boot or the > whole bushing insert. However, not having done this before and having some > limited time to get all of this done I'm open to suggestions. Is there a > source for the bushing covers? Should I just replace the bushing and if so > what special tools do I need to do this? Also, what is the proper tool for > getting the control arms off in the first place so I don't have to use the > pickle pork thing and run into the again. You can't replace just the bushing. You can replace the boot (although none that I have used were all that great). Check with Bavarian or BMPD or other sources. Regards, Rich
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#2. My rotten idle... - from Matthew Finlay
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Date: Sun, 15 Oct 2006 21:57:44 -0500 From: "Matthew Finlay" <matthew.finlay@gmail.com> Subject: My rotten idle... Hi folks. I've been reading this list forever, and I've only been a help one time. Otherwise I just learn and absorb all the info you guys have. I'm rotten at diagnosing problems, and that's what I need help with now. I just posted this on the kiddie forums but haven't yet had any replies (only half a day or so has gone by, but I'd like to try to fix this soon). Here's my symptoms: Soemtimes, when I start the car cold, engine will shoot up to 1100 or 1200 RPM and sit there. Sometimes it will start to creep higher. It will continue to do this until I tap the accelerator, which of course pushes the RPMs even higher, but then it will drop down to 650 rpm or so, where I would expect it to be during idle. However, at idle, the car is a touch rougher than it used to be. Not a silky smooth feeling sitting at a light. I can feel a surging rumble through my seat. One problem I've had since I bought the car is that sometimes when starting cold, I'll wait a bit for things to get settled, then lightly step on the gas and start to engage the clutch and the car will bog down and almost die, almost like I was engaging the clutch without giving any gas. It livens right up again when I remove my foot from the throttle. This is definitely throttle related and not clutch related. I don't recall ever having this problem when the engine is still relatively warm. I suspect these issues are related. Any thoughts on what it is? I'm thinking this might all be related to a dirty/sticky ICV. Do you have any other recommendations on where to look? Throttle body?
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#3. RE: [e36m3] [E36M3] Uh oh: Engine boom... - from Marco
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Date: Sun, 15 Oct 2006 20:50:53 -0700 From: "Marco" <m3driver@iname.com> Subject: RE: [e36m3] [E36M3] Uh oh: Engine boom... Loose intake hose or you forgot to hook up the HFM cable. Marco -----Original Message----- From: chipmitchell@gmail.com [mailto:chipmitchell@gmail.com] Sent: Sunday, October 15, 2006 4:26 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [e36m3] [E36M3] Uh oh: Engine boom... Date: Sun, 15 Oct 2006 19:23:44 -0400 From: "chipmitchell@gmail.com" <chipmitchell@gmail.com> Subject: Uh oh: Engine boom... I just finished my second head-gasket job in a few weeks - apparently i dinged the gasket the first time around and the car ran hot (ran great until it got up to temp). This time around, I've just cranked the car with much worse results. The car will not idle correctly; it revs from about 2000 rpm to almost stalling on about 1/2 second intervals. Then, ever 10 or 20 seconds, there is a "boom" or "thunk" from somewhere low in the engine. My best guess sounds like it is under the intake manifold somewhere; can't tell how far down. The car throws a 1215 code. Any suggestions for next place to look? ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#4. Re: [E36M3] My rotten idle... - from Mark D.
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Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2006 00:37:32 -0400 From: "Mark D." <mdlkml@atari-source.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] My rotten idle... Eh, Symptoms are a dead on match for my car. I've heard a firmware update to the DME (engine computer) will take care of it. I just deal with it. I don't however have any warm engine idle issues. Only a rough running engine for 30 seconds or so when cold (which will bog down and stall if you're not careful), and then suddenly like magic it smooths. Hope you get some practical advice as I'd love to fix this issue on my car too. Thanks, Mark On Sun, 2006-10-15 at 22:06 -0500, Matthew Finlay wrote: > Date: Sun, 15 Oct 2006 21:57:44 -0500 > From: "Matthew Finlay" <matthew.finlay@gmail.com> > Subject: My rotten idle... > > Hi folks. I've been reading this list forever, and I've only been a help > one time. Otherwise I just learn and absorb all the info you guys have. > I'm rotten at diagnosing problems, and that's what I need help with now. I > just posted this on the kiddie forums but haven't yet had any replies (only > half a day or so has gone by, but I'd like to try to fix this soon). > > Here's my symptoms: > Soemtimes, when I start the car cold, engine will shoot up to 1100 or 1200 > RPM and sit there. Sometimes it will start to creep higher. It will continue > to do this until I tap the accelerator, which of course pushes the RPMs even > higher, but then it will drop down to 650 rpm or so, where I would expect it > to be during idle. > > However, at idle, the car is a touch rougher than it used to be. Not a silky > smooth feeling sitting at a light. I can feel a surging rumble through my > seat. > > One problem I've had since I bought the car is that sometimes when starting > cold, I'll wait a bit for things to get settled, then lightly step on the > gas and start to engage the clutch and the car will bog down and almost die, > almost like I was engaging the clutch without giving any gas. It livens > right up again when I remove my foot from the throttle. This is definitely > throttle related and not clutch related. > > I don't recall ever having this problem when the engine is still relatively > warm. > > I suspect these issues are related. Any thoughts on what it is? I'm thinking > this might all be related to a dirty/sticky ICV. Do you have any other > recommendations on where to look? Throttle body? > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > >
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#5. Re: [E36M3] My rotten idle... - from Peter Loron
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Date: Sun, 15 Oct 2006 21:40:02 -0700 From: "Peter Loron" <peterloron@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] My rotten idle... My 98 exhibits the same behavior. Numerous others on Bimmerforums also have the same problem. Some people claim to have rectified the problem by cleaning/replacing the ICV. I've been too busy with other things to get around to investigating the issue on my car. -Pete On 10/15/06, Matthew Finlay <matthew.finlay@gmail.com> wrote: > > Date: Sun, 15 Oct 2006 21:57:44 -0500 > From: "Matthew Finlay" <matthew.finlay@gmail.com> > Subject: My rotten idle... > > Hi folks. I've been reading this list forever, and I've only been a help > one time. Otherwise I just learn and absorb all the info you guys have. > I'm rotten at diagnosing problems, and that's what I need help with > now. I > just posted this on the kiddie forums but haven't yet had any replies > (only > half a day or so has gone by, but I'd like to try to fix this soon). > > Here's my symptoms: > Soemtimes, when I start the car cold, engine will shoot up to 1100 or 1200 > RPM and sit there. Sometimes it will start to creep higher. It will > continue > to do this until I tap the accelerator, which of course pushes the RPMs > even > higher, but then it will drop down to 650 rpm or so, where I would expect > it > to be during idle. > > However, at idle, the car is a touch rougher than it used to be. Not a > silky > smooth feeling sitting at a light. I can feel a surging rumble through my > seat. > > One problem I've had since I bought the car is that sometimes when > starting > cold, I'll wait a bit for things to get settled, then lightly step on the > gas and start to engage the clutch and the car will bog down and almost > die, > almost like I was engaging the clutch without giving any gas. It livens > right up again when I remove my foot from the throttle. This is > definitely > throttle related and not clutch related. > > I don't recall ever having this problem when the engine is still > relatively > warm. > > I suspect these issues are related. Any thoughts on what it is? I'm > thinking > this might all be related to a dirty/sticky ICV. Do you have any other > recommendations on where to look? Throttle body? > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > >
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#6. CA and pickle fork - from tim ng
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Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2006 07:38:20 -0400 From: "tim ng" <s14realm3@hotmail.com> Subject: CA and pickle fork if you are going to re-use the CA, DON"T USE A pickle fork. Ask the group for help/suggestion before going to do a job you have never done before on that car. many of us have done the job and can give much advise IF you ask. You can BUY new boots from www.bmpd.com. They are red cover, not the same as factory but they do work.They also sell the tool to remove the ball joint without touching the boot too. jack under the ball joint will stop it from spinning. Tim Ng BMWCCA # 36497 95 BUZZNM3 94 325i future SPEC E36 race car 92 325ic M-Technic 91 M3 street car 88 M3/2.5 DM race car 87 325is D.E. car (FOR SALE) ------------------ project 90 535ia ------------------ Pace shadow 26 ft enclosed trailer my web page: http://groups.msn.com/M3stuff/pictures
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#7. Re: SRS - passenger occupancy sensor - from Russ Doucet
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Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2006 07:54:20 -0400 From: "Russ Doucet" <russ@russdoucet.com> Subject: Re: SRS - passenger occupancy sensor How could I tell if my car ('98 328i Canada) has a passenger occupancy sensor or not? It has 4 air bags. -Russ.
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#8. Running rough, bad coil? - from Peter Loron
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Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2006 10:55:52 -0700 From: "Peter Loron" <peterloron@gmail.com> Subject: Running rough, bad coil? My 98 M3/4 has an issue (who's doesnt?) that developed last Friday. I was sitting at a light (car warmed up) and took off. The car was lugging, shuddering, and acting very rough. CEL came on. I parked and shut it off. No fires or anything nasty coming from under the hood, so I fired it back up an limped home. When taking off from a stop, the shuddering/roughness are very pronounced. Once you get above 2.5K RPM, it's pretty smooth, although not normal. Party way back home, it started running fine again. Yesterday evening, it ran fine through 30 min of city driving. This morning, it was back to being grumpy. I got the codes pulled: 16 - fuel injector, cyl. 3 F6 - Secondary airflow too low, cyl. 4-6 1E - Ignition coil, cyl. 3 F0 - misfilre, cyl 3 I know the seconday air pump+valve have been noisy for a while, so no suprise there. Sounds like the coil is bad? I went out and pulled the two middle coils since I don't know which end of the block to start counting from to find #3. Would somebody please clue me in? :-) Anyway, the 3rd from the front checked at 1.0ohm. There was a little oil in the plug well (ordered the stuff for a gasket job). The 4th from the front measured 0.9ohm. The plug well was dry. The rubber sheath of the coil-plug connector was distorted/melted a bit at the plug end. It said 1.8Kohm on it and measured exactly 1.8K. I'm going to try swapping a couple of the coils around and see if the problem follows the coil. I'm thinking I may also check and replace all the plugs while I'm in there...no idea how long those have been in the car. Anything else the hive mind can suggest? Thanks! Pete 1998 M3/4 - needs some lovin'
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Running rough, bad coil? - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2006 11:18:43 -0700 (PDT) From: "Jim Bassett" <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Running rough, bad coil? On Mon, October 16, 2006 10:56 am, Peter Loron said: > I went out and pulled the two middle coils since I don't know which end of > the block to start counting from to find #3. Would somebody please clue me > in? :-) IIRC, start counting from the front :-) > I'm thinking I may also check and replace all the plugs while I'm in > there...no idea how long those have been in the car. I'd start with this. Put fresh plugs in, properly torqued. One thing to remember is that the codes you get may just indicate a symptom of the problem, not the actual problem itself. I.e. You may have bad plugs, one caused a misfire, and it was bad enough that the computer thought it also detected a "problem" with the coil. That's not to say that coils can't and don't go bad. But in general, spark plugs need to be changed more frequently than the coils, so I'd start there :-) Jim Bassett
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Running rough, bad coil? - from Peter Loron
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Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2006 11:23:58 -0700 From: "Peter Loron" <peterloron@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Running rough, bad coil? Ok, thanks for the info. I did note that the coils all have a date on them (March 17, 1998) which is roughly the build date of the car... Now for the $0.23 Question: should I put anti-seize on the plug threads and if so, what type (copper)? I've seen conflicting recommendations. Thanks! Pete On 10/16/06, Jim Bassett <jim@jimbassett.com> wrote: > > On Mon, October 16, 2006 10:56 am, Peter Loron said: > > I went out and pulled the two middle coils since I don't know which end > of > > the block to start counting from to find #3. Would somebody please clue > me > > in? :-) > > IIRC, start counting from the front :-) > > > I'm thinking I may also check and replace all the plugs while I'm in > > there...no idea how long those have been in the car. > > I'd start with this. Put fresh plugs in, properly torqued. > > One thing to remember is that the codes you get may just indicate a > symptom of the problem, not the actual problem itself. I.e. You may have > bad plugs, one caused a misfire, and it was bad enough that the computer > thought it also detected a "problem" with the coil. That's not to say that > coils can't and don't go bad. But in general, spark plugs need to be > changed more frequently than the coils, so I'd start there :-) > > Jim Bassett > >