-------------------- 1 --------------------
#1. Re: stubborned airbag light - from Vince Leo
Top
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2006 12:37:41 -0700 (PDT) From: Vince Leo <m332is@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: stubborned airbag light Check the Bentley wiring diagram... there is a second wire going to the cluster...cut that and you are good to go. Vince E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> wrote: Subject: stubborned airbag light I've been running without a drivers' airbag (been using the smaller euro wheel) for sometime now and swapped back the boring stock airbag wheel for inspection tomorrow. Removed the cluster bulb, now it's just dimmer. Removed and covered the socket hole with tape, still present in attempt 1 to correct it. What's next, stuff hole with a cotton ball? Any Ideas where the light is coming from, seems they provided for a backup means to indicate a fault in system, (probably a smart idea for a 'safety' check). Does auto-zone lend out the SRS scanner, or is this dealer only? IIRC peake doesn't cover this. Anybody in the philly area have one I could swing by for a few minutes? Patrick Goss 97 M3/4 --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? Get on board. You're invited to try the new Yahoo! Mail.
-------------------- 2 --------------------
#2. RE: [E36M3] Re: stubborned airbag light - from Goss, Patrick - PA
Top
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2006 14:44:29 -0500 From: "Goss, Patrick - PA" <Patrick.Goss@GMACM.COM> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Re: stubborned airbag light Gulp!!! What, cut a wire? -----Original Message----- From: Vince Leo [mailto:m332is@yahoo.com] Sent: Monday, October 23, 2006 3:38 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] Re: stubborned airbag light Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2006 12:37:41 -0700 (PDT) From: Vince Leo <m332is@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: stubborned airbag light Check the Bentley wiring diagram... there is a second wire going to the cluster...cut that and you are good to go. Vince E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> wrote: Subject: stubborned airbag light I've been running without a drivers' airbag (been using the smaller euro wheel) for sometime now and swapped back the boring stock airbag wheel for inspection tomorrow. Removed the cluster bulb, now it's just dimmer. Removed and covered the socket hole with tape, still present in attempt 1 to correct it. What's next, stuff hole with a cotton ball? Any Ideas where the light is coming from, seems they provided for a backup means to indicate a fault in system, (probably a smart idea for a 'safety' check). Does auto-zone lend out the SRS scanner, or is this dealer only? IIRC peake doesn't cover this. Anybody in the philly area have one I could swing by for a few minutes? Patrick Goss 97 M3/4 --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? Get on board. You're invited to try the new Yahoo! Mail. ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
-------------------- 3 --------------------
#3. RE: Wanted: E36 M3 Car Cover - from Tucker Ryals
Top
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2006 12:43:52 -0700 (PDT) From: Tucker Ryals <tuckerryals@yahoo.com> Subject: RE: Wanted: E36 M3 Car Cover Stan (and others), Now that you mention it, I have one to sell. I don't recall the details, but it came with the car when I bought my '95 M3 3.5 years ago. Since then, it's been sitting in a box, since my car is a daily driver and lives in the garage at home. I'll break it out tonight and try to determine any specifics on it that I can. I do recall that it is light blue and has "BMW" printed on the nose. Tucker > -------------------- 2 -------------------- > Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2006 11:08:47 -0400 > From: "Stan Shaw" <Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net> > Subject: Wanted: E36 M3 Car Cover > > Anyone have one for sale? > > Recommendation on where to buy? > > > > Thanks! > > > > Regards, > Stan Shaw > Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net > Phone: (413) 599-0399 Fax: (413) > 599-0421 > Excell.Net Owner/Operator > http://www.Excell.Net/ > 928 Owners Club President > http://www.928OC.org/ > 928Racing.net Team Member > http://www.928Racing.net/ > > "Liberty once lost is lost forever." - John Adams __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com
-------------------- 4 --------------------
#4. RE: [E36M3] Re: stubborned airbag light - from Vince Leo
Top
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2006 12:58:21 -0700 (PDT) From: Vince Leo <m332is@yahoo.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Re: stubborned airbag light I can't remember what specific wire off the top of my head (violet) I think, but clearly labeled in Bentley. But that way you get rid of the dull light. We did thins on the race cars as I hate red warning lights that aren't oil pressure!!! Besides, you haven't lived until you clipped a wire that you are 95% sure is the right one :) Vince "Goss, Patrick - PA" <Patrick.Goss@GMACM.COM> wrote: Gulp!!! What, cut a wire? -----Original Message----- From: Vince Leo [mailto:m332is@yahoo.com] Sent: Monday, October 23, 2006 3:38 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] Re: stubborned airbag light Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2006 12:37:41 -0700 (PDT) From: Vince Leo Subject: Re: stubborned airbag light Check the Bentley wiring diagram... there is a second wire going to the cluster...cut that and you are good to go. Vince E36M3 wrote: Subject: stubborned airbag light I've been running without a drivers' airbag (been using the smaller euro wheel) for sometime now and swapped back the boring stock airbag wheel for inspection tomorrow. Removed the cluster bulb, now it's just dimmer. Removed and covered the socket hole with tape, still present in attempt 1 to correct it. What's next, stuff hole with a cotton ball? Any Ideas where the light is coming from, seems they provided for a backup means to indicate a fault in system, (probably a smart idea for a 'safety' check). Does auto-zone lend out the SRS scanner, or is this dealer only? IIRC peake doesn't cover this. Anybody in the philly area have one I could swing by for a few minutes? Patrick Goss 97 M3/4 --------------------------------- Get your email and more, right on the new Yahoo.com
-------------------- 5 --------------------
#5. RE: [E36M3] Re: stubborned airbag light - from Goss, Patrick - PA
Top
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2006 15:05:21 -0500 From: "Goss, Patrick - PA" <Patrick.Goss@GMACM.COM> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Re: stubborned airbag light Sounds like your trade is disabling bombs :-) LOL ________________________________ From: Vince Leo [mailto:m332is@yahoo.com] Sent: Monday, October 23, 2006 3:58 PM To: Goss, Patrick - PA; E36M3 Subject: RE: [E36M3] Re: stubborned airbag light I can't remember what specific wire off the top of my head (violet) I think, but clearly labeled in Bentley. But that way you get rid of the dull light. We did thins on the race cars as I hate red warning lights that aren't oil pressure!!! Besides, you haven't lived until you clipped a wire that you are 95% sure is the right one :) Vince "Goss, Patrick - PA" <Patrick.Goss@GMACM.COM> wrote: Gulp!!! What, cut a wire? -----Original Message----- From: Vince Leo [mailto:m332is@yahoo.com] Sent: Monday, October 23, 2006 3:38 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] Re: stubborned airbag light Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2006 12:37:41 -0700 (PDT) From: Vince Leo Subject: Re: stubborned airbag light Check the Bentley wiring diagram... there is a second wire going to the cluster...cut that and you are good to go. Vince E36M3 wrote: Subject: stubborned airbag light I've been running without a drivers' airbag (been using the smaller euro wheel) for sometime now and swapped back the boring stock airbag wheel for inspection tomorrow. Removed the cluster bulb, now it's just dimmer. Removed and covered the socket hole with tape, still present in attempt 1 to correct it. What's next, stuff hole with a cotton ball? Any Ideas where the light is coming from, seems they provided for a backup means to indicate a fault in system, (probably a smart idea for a 'safety' check). Does auto-zone lend out the SRS scanner, or is this dealer only? IIRC peake doesn't cover this. Anybody in the philly area have one I could swing by for a few minutes? Patrick Goss 97 M3/4 ________________________________ Get your email and more, right on the new Yahoo.com <http://us.rd.yahoo.com/evt=42973/*http:/www.yahoo.com/preview>
-------------------- 6 --------------------
#6. pictures of things for sale - from Scott Yu
Top
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2006 13:12:49 -0700 (PDT) From: Scott Yu <segascott@yahoo.com> Subject: pictures of things for sale .....there have been a few inquiries of what certain items look like, so here are pics of most of the things I have for sale. http://www.villagephotos.com/pubbrowse.asp?folder_id=1690082 Thanks a bunch guys - sorry for sending out so many mails. best, scott --------------------------------- Talk is cheap. Use Yahoo! Messenger to make PC-to-Phone calls. Great rates starting at 1¢/min.
-------------------- 7 --------------------
#7. Rear Wheel Bearing R&R (Part 1 of 3) - Long! - from Neil Maller
Top
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2006 16:15:35 -0400 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Rear Wheel Bearing R&R (Part 1 of 3) - Long! Thanks to all who offered advice and help on doing this job. For something that in a better world ought to be a routine procedure, BMW has sure made it a lot harder than it ought to be. For some idea of what it's like, go to the Mr. Boffo archives at: <http://www.mrboffo.com/mbarchives/mbarch.html> and select the 10/20/06 strip. See what I mean? The following is what we found out. TOOLS & SUPPLIES ================ - Good set of mechanics tools. - High range (~250 ft-lb, 1/2" drive) and low range (<100 ft-lb, 3/8" drive) torque wrenches. - 6" C-clamp (G-clamp if you're more logical and/or in the UK!) - Set of E-sockets (reverse Torx; sizes needed depend on E36 model). - Heavy six point 1/2" drive socket to fit force screw of RWB tool set below. We needed a 24mm impact socket (but don't ever use an impact gun on puller tools). - Box end wrench to fit force screw nut of RWB tool set below. Ours took a 27mm. (Had to run to AutoZone for it at lunchtime.) - 30mm 12-point 1/2" drive socket for axle nut. - Large, and I mean larger than most of us already have, snap-ring pliers. - Breaker bar plus pipe or jack handle for extra leverage. - Hand sledge hammer. - Cold chisels. - Dremel or air die grinder fitted with thin, small diameter cutting wheel. - Four 3-ton (for height) jackstands to support entire car. - One other jackstand - At least one large service jack. More jacks are good. - Mechanic's creeper. - Optional but helpful, a general purpose hub puller such as this one: <http://www.toolking.com/ProductInfo.aspx?productid=8592> Later you can use it on the front wheel bearings! - RWB special tool set such as this one: <http://www.sirtools.com/sirs-040.jpg> made by SIR Tools. You can buy it at PelicanParts.com for $218, or borrow it from a kindly friend as we did. (See also note below.) - Good quality penetrating oil such as Kroil, PB Blaster or Würth. - Anti-seize compound, grease etc. - Bentley shop manual for reference data such as tightening torques. It's pretty damn worthless for this job otherwise. - New bearing, axle nut and snap-ring, one each per side. Note that some of these are model-specific. - Optionally a new rear hub/stub axle for each side. You'll see why later. - Lastly, you really need a helper, at least for some parts of this job. About that RWB special tool set: I've seen accounts on the net about improvising your own tools using threaded rods and various large sockets to use to push and pull with. I've done this myself in the past for bushings, but it's a very bad idea for this particular job. Some of the forces required are extraordinarily high, enough that you need a force screw that's bigger than will pass though even a 3/4" square drive socket. The one we used had a 7/8" shaft (~22mm) force screw shaft, and it was grunting. So both for safety and to make sure you don't get stuck in mid-job, borrow or buy the tool set. Hey, you can sell it on eBay afterward! OVERVIEW ======== Drive comes from the differential via a CV-jointed halfshaft with male splines at its outboard end. These engage in the splined bore of the rear hub. This hub has a stub axle on its inboard side which is pressed into the bearing ID. The bearing OD is pressed into a machined bore in the rear trailing arm until it bottoms on a lip, and is secured on the outboard side by a very large internal snap-ring. The bearing R&R consists unbolting the halfshaft at its inner end, pushing it out of the hub, pulling the hub out of the bearing, then pulling the bearing out of the trailing arm. Assembly is the reverse. But of course the devil is in the details, for which see parts 2 and 3. BTW, these instructions assume you have a reasonable familiarity with working on cars, using normal tools and taking proper safety measures. If that's not the case then this isn't the job to learn on. It took two of use about 7 hours, including a one hour lunch break and tool run. A significant amount of time was wasted figuring out how the puller tool set worked, since it's instructions had gone missing, and calling friends about that. I figure the next RWB job will take maybe four to five hours. Book shop time at a BMW dealer is 4.4 hours, so you stand to save almost $500 per side. Neil Fort Wayne, IN 96 M3 - Bastard child 03 525iT - Sterling Grey Metallic 05 Mini - Cooper S with LSD
-------------------- 8 --------------------
#8. Re: [E36M3] factory alarm question - from Jay Hudson
Top
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2006 13:24:54 -0700 From: "Jay Hudson" <jwhud@budget.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] factory alarm question I never owned a factory alarm so I have no personal experience. But, as far as I know the E36 alarms were made by Alpine. We used to sell Alpine alarms when they were still making them. I don't remember an Alpine alarm with separate buttons for lock and unlock. But.... my memory sucks ;-) Jay > Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2006 12:05:08 -0700 > From: Kent Shephard <Kents@kls-consulting.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] factory alarm question > > Not true. > There is a separate lock and unlock button. > They will always be in the same state or will always go to the same > state. > Both unlock or both locked. > > Kent Shephard > kents@kshephard.com > > > > On Oct 23, 2006, at 7:07 AM, Jay Hudson wrote: > >> Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2006 07:07:10 -0700 >> From: "Jay Hudson" <jwhud@budget.net> >> Subject: Re: [E36M3] factory alarm question >> >> Not sure if it's possible but I can see a potential problem. If the two >> cars are ever within range of each other when the remote is used, it >> will cause an action with both. So if you want to unlock the one you >> intend to enter and the other is already unlocked, the second one will >> be locked at the same time as the first is unlocked. Could get wierd. >> >> If that doesn't cause concern for you, contcat a car audio dealer that >> sells Clifford or another of the good alarm systems and ask them. >> >> What I do know is that you can code a different button on the same >> remote to lock/unlock a second vehicle. Maybe this is what you're >> looking for. >> >> Jay >> >> Jay >> >> Date: Sun, 22 Oct 2006 19:33:22 -0700 (PDT) >> From: Hunt Hodgetts <hhodgetts@yahoo.com> >> Subject: factory alarm question >> >> I currently have a two M3 household; A 97 automatic >> sedan and a 98 manual coupe. I have been thinking >> about getting the factory alarm for each vehicle and I >> was wondering if a two alarms can be set to the same >> code ? (so that the key fob would unlock either >> vehicle) >> >> If the factory alarm is not capable of this, are there >> any aftermarket systems that have this capability? >> >> Thanks, >> Hunt Hodgetts
-------------------- 9 --------------------
#9. FS: Rear Trailing Arm Bushing w/Ground Control Spacers - from Ahmad Lutfeali
Top
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2006 16:24:38 -0400 From: "Ahmad Lutfeali" <m3_racer99@hotmail.com> Subject: FS: Rear Trailing Arm Bushing w/Ground Control Spacers Brand new in box. New $100 plus shipping. Will let go for $60 shipped. Thanks, Ahmad
-------------------- 10 --------------------
#10. Rear Wheel Bearing R&R (Part 2 of 3)-Long - from Neil Maller
Top
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2006 16:26:52 -0400 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Rear Wheel Bearing R&R (Part 2 of 3)-Long See part 1 for Tools and Supplies and an overview of the job. DISASSEMBLY =========== 1) Raise the rear of the car slightly, remove the rear wheel, and use a cold chisel to tap out the crimps in the rear axle nut. Refit the wheel and lower the car until the tire is in hard contact with the ground. 2) Remove the wheel's centre cap and insert a 30mm 12-point socket plus 6" extension to engage the axle nut. Support the extension on a jackstand so that it's in line with the nut, put the breaker bar on the extension. Slip a jack handle or length of pipe over the breaker bar, and apply your weight to it to break the nut free. Give it a half-turn to make sure it can be removed later, but leave it in place. 3) Jack up both ends of the car and support it on heavy duty jackstands, high enough up for you to work underneath easily. Think safety! Use this moment to reflect on how cool it would be to own a lift. Remove the rear wheel(s). 4) If replacing the left side bearing, remove the cat-back exhaust. Unbolt the rear swaybar enough that it doesn't get in the way. (We took it off.) 5) Put the car in gear. Remove the 6 reverse-Torx bolts holding the inboard end of the halfshaft to the differential output flange, putting the car in neutral and rotating the shaft to get to the other bolts as needed. See, isn't having a helper a good idea? Support the halfshaft so it doesn't flop and strain the CV joints. 6) Use a 6" C-clamp to retract the brake pads slightly. Undo the two 16mm head bolts and remove the brake caliper bracket with the caliper attached. Support safely out of the way. (You make want to support the trailing arm and remove the lower shock bolt to allow the caliper more room to tuck away.) Make sure the parking brake is not engaged, remove the rotor securing bolt, take off the brake rotor and set it aside. 7) Unscrew and discard the axle nut. Attach the general purpose hub puller and use its central screw to push the splined halfshaft completely out of the hub. Alternatively you can tap the halfshaft out with a hammer and a piece of wood. Set the halfshaft out of the way. 8) Check out the RWB tool set. There's a big, very heavy frame, a 7/8" diameter force screw, a collar nut for the screw, and various pieces and parts to push with or into. The frame has a U-shaped base with a bolt-on adapter to down-size the base opening. Make sure this adapter is securely bolted on. This frame is going to seat against the outboard face of the dust shield, or more precisely on the heads of the three bolts that hold the shield in place. Unfortunately the parking brake assembly is in the way, so first we have to deal with that. Thanks a lot BMW! 9) Check out how the parking brake assembly goes together. You're going to have to reassemble it later, and Bentley is pretty worthless on that subject too. Use an allen wrench to turn the two shoe supports (located at the midpoint of each shoe) one quarter turn to release. Pull them free and set aside. Pull off the two shoes, their springs and the star wheel adjuster. The actuator with the parking brake cable can stay in place. 10) Now the puller frame can be fitted. You may need to wire brush some rust and scale from the trailing arm for a clean fit. The frame base's opening should be at the front lower side to clear the parking brake actuator. Make sure the frame base is seated cleanly against all three bolt heads on the dust shield. Insert the force screw through the frame and all the way in through the bearing 11) Lube the tool threads with grease or anti-seize. Working under the car, thread the tool's collar nut onto the force screw until it contacts the inboard end of the internally splined stub axle. (The tool set we used didn't need a separate pulling collar for this step.) Hold the nut with a 27mm box-end wrench while your helper turns the 24mm head on the force screw with a socket and breaker bar. As the screw turns it will pull the hub/stub axle out of the bearing ID. Pull it all the way out and set aside. The two-piece inner bearing race will have separated, with the inboard part left in the bearing and the outboard race stuck on the stub axle. We'll deal with that later. 12) Now you can see the big snap-ring securing the outer face of the bearing. Use snap-ring pliers to remove it. It may be helpful to use a screwdriver to help lever it out. 13) Put the puller frame back in place, insert the force screw. Make sure that everything that turns is lubed. Now pick a pulling collar from the tool set that's big enough to engage the remaining inner race but can still pass thorough the trailing arm. Working under the car, place this pulling collar over the force screw and against the bearing inner race. (The outer race has a ridge midway in its bore which prevents the inner race from pulling through in that direction, effective locking the two together for this pulling procedure.) Make sure the pulling collar under the collar nut is as perfectly centred as possible, and tighten the nut enough to hold everything in place. Inspect the puller frame and force screw to make sure that they too are centred for a straight pull. Place the 27mm box end wrench over the puller nut and support its free end with a jackstand (you probably wouldn't be able to hold it by hand.) 14) Have your helper turn the screw using the 24mm socket, breaker bar and pipe/jack handle until it's almost impossible to turn any more. Now with a wood block and a hand sledge hammer, working under the car, whack the screw just twice, hard! Have your helper turn the screw some more, whack it twice again. Using this combination of sustained and impulse forces the bearing will at some point break free and start to move without more blows. Warning! The screw is under several tons of tensile force during this procedure. Keep away from it to the extent possible, just in case. Don't use an improvised tool; you need a large diameter hardened steel screw that's made for the purpose. Once the bearing starts to move this will get progressively easier, allowing the bearing to be pulled all the way out. 15) Lastly you need to get the outboard inner bearing race off the stub axle. The most practical way is to carefully cut a slot in it with your Dremel, then crack the race with a hammer and cold chisel in the slot. Make sure not to cut all the way through and into the stub axle material! You might consider buying a new hub instead. Congratulations! You now have a pile of parts and a totally immobilized car. So on to Part 3... Neil Fort Wayne, IN 96 M3 - Bastard child 03 525iT - Sterling Grey Metallic 05 Mini - Cooper S with LSD