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#1. Rear Wheel Bearing R&R (Part 3 of 3)-Long - from Neil Maller
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Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2006 17:02:53 -0400 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Rear Wheel Bearing R&R (Part 3 of 3)-Long See Parts 1 and 2 for Tools, Overview and Disassembly instructions. REASSEMBLY ========== 1) Clean up the trailing arm bore as necessary with a wire brush. Select a tool set pushing collar that's fractionally smaller than the bearing OD, so that it can rest flat on the bearing and push against the outer race, but still fit into the trailing arm bore. (Test that to be sure; if you push via the inner race you'll ruin the bearing.) The hat portion of this collar will sit away from the bearing, the flat face in contact with it. Sparingly lube the bearing OD and the trailing arm bore. You will no longer need to use the tool frame. Insert the force screw through the outboard collar, the bearing and the trailing arm. Now select a big collar that's larger than the inboard opening in the trailing arm bore. Important: this inboard collar must seat against the trailing arm, never on the bearing! Now centre the inboard collar, thread on the collar nut and tighten enough to secure the parts. Apply the 27mm box end wrench and support as before. Make sure everything is square, then begin to tighten the force screw from outside the car to pull in the bearing. Make sure it doesn't go in cocked. The bearing should pull in straight and relatively easily. Keep going until the bearing bottoms out on the lip in the trailing arm bore. Assemble a new snap-ring to secure the bearing. Make sure it's fully seated in its groove. 2) Important: do not be tempted to install the hub/stub axle now! Instead you should reassemble the parking brake pieces and parts while you still have easy access to them. You do remember how they go together, right? (Hints: the two-coil spring is at the forward end by the actuator; the single coil spring and the star adjuster are to the car's rear.) 3) Prepare the hub/stub axle and the halfshaft for reassembly. Use a wire brush, fine sandpaper or whatever else works to clean up the inner and outer splines until they can be dry-fitted together easily by hand. You don't want to have to hammer on them later. Blow them clean of grit. 4) Now we'll put the hub/stub axle back on. Lube the mating parts (stub axle OD, bearing ID). Select an outboard pulling collar to rest against the hub face. For the inboard end use a small flat collar that seats against the bearing inner race only. Insert the force screw through the outer collar, the hub/stub axle, the bearing, and the inboard collar. Thread on the nut, make sure everything is square and pull the stub axle into place until it bottoms out. No excessive force should be needed. The hub should turn smoothly without roughness or noise. If not... 5) Lube both splined parts, then insert the outer end of the halfshaft into the stub axle. It should slide in easily. Refasten the bolts and locking plates to attach the halfshaft to the differential output flange, torque to spec. (Bolt size and torque vary by E36 model. At last Bentley is good for something!) 6) Remount the cat-back exhaust section and the rear swaybar. Bolt the rear rotor and the brake caliper assembly back in place. Pump the brake pedal to reset pad clearance. Remount rear wheel(s). Lower the car. 7) Torque the rear axle nut to 184 lb-ft. Raise the rear of the car again, remove the wheel, tap in two crimps to secure the axle nut. Replace and torque the wheel, drop the car and you're ready to go. There, wasn't that fun? OK, then think about all the money you saved. Neil Fort Wayne, IN 96 M3 - Bastard child 03 525iT - Sterling Grey Metallic 05 Mini - Cooper S with LSD
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#2. RE: [E36M3] Rear Wheel Bearing R&R (Part 3 of 3)-Long - from Dave DeBuhr
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Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2006 14:23:56 -0700 From: "Dave DeBuhr" <debuhr@comcast.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Rear Wheel Bearing R&R (Part 3 of 3)-Long Thanks for the great writeup, Neil. This one is a keeper... -----Original Message----- From: Neil Maller [mailto:neil.maller@gte.net] Sent: Monday, October 23, 2006 2:08 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] Rear Wheel Bearing R&R (Part 3 of 3)-Long Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2006 17:02:53 -0400 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Rear Wheel Bearing R&R (Part 3 of 3)-Long See Parts 1 and 2 for Tools, Overview and Disassembly instructions. REASSEMBLY ========== 1) Clean up the trailing arm bore as necessary with a wire brush. Select a tool set pushing collar that's fractionally smaller than the bearing OD, so that it can rest flat on the bearing and push against the outer race, but still fit into the trailing arm bore. (Test that to be sure; if you push via the inner race you'll ruin the bearing.) The hat portion of this collar will sit away from the bearing, the flat face in contact with it. Sparingly lube the bearing OD and the trailing arm bore. You will no longer need to use the tool frame. Insert the force screw through the outboard collar, the bearing and the trailing arm. Now select a big collar that's larger than the inboard opening in the trailing arm bore. Important: this inboard collar must seat against the trailing arm, never on the bearing! Now centre the inboard collar, thread on the collar nut and tighten enough to secure the parts. Apply the 27mm box end wrench and support as before. Make sure everything is square, then begin to tighten the force screw from outside the car to pull in the bearing. Make sure it doesn't go in cocked. The bearing should pull in straight and relatively easily. Keep going until the bearing bottoms out on the lip in the trailing arm bore. Assemble a new snap-ring to secure the bearing. Make sure it's fully seated in its groove. 2) Important: do not be tempted to install the hub/stub axle now! Instead you should reassemble the parking brake pieces and parts while you still have easy access to them. You do remember how they go together, right? (Hints: the two-coil spring is at the forward end by the actuator; the single coil spring and the star adjuster are to the car's rear.) 3) Prepare the hub/stub axle and the halfshaft for reassembly. Use a wire brush, fine sandpaper or whatever else works to clean up the inner and outer splines until they can be dry-fitted together easily by hand. You don't want to have to hammer on them later. Blow them clean of grit. 4) Now we'll put the hub/stub axle back on. Lube the mating parts (stub axle OD, bearing ID). Select an outboard pulling collar to rest against the hub face. For the inboard end use a small flat collar that seats against the bearing inner race only. Insert the force screw through the outer collar, the hub/stub axle, the bearing, and the inboard collar. Thread on the nut, make sure everything is square and pull the stub axle into place until it bottoms out. No excessive force should be needed. The hub should turn smoothly without roughness or noise. If not... 5) Lube both splined parts, then insert the outer end of the halfshaft into the stub axle. It should slide in easily. Refasten the bolts and locking plates to attach the halfshaft to the differential output flange, torque to spec. (Bolt size and torque vary by E36 model. At last Bentley is good for something!) 6) Remount the cat-back exhaust section and the rear swaybar. Bolt the rear rotor and the brake caliper assembly back in place. Pump the brake pedal to reset pad clearance. Remount rear wheel(s). Lower the car. 7) Torque the rear axle nut to 184 lb-ft. Raise the rear of the car again, remove the wheel, tap in two crimps to secure the axle nut. Replace and torque the wheel, drop the car and you're ready to go. There, wasn't that fun? OK, then think about all the money you saved. Neil Fort Wayne, IN 96 M3 - Bastard child 03 525iT - Sterling Grey Metallic 05 Mini - Cooper S with LSD ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#3. [E36M3] UUC/Corsa Exhaust - from Dave DeBuhr
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Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2006 14:36:32 -0700 From: "Dave DeBuhr" <debuhr@comcast.net> Subject: [E36M3] UUC/Corsa Exhaust I must be nuts because I just dropped about $800 for just about no performance gain for my M3. I ordered the UUC RSC exhaust. Anyone have any experience with this one? Is my wife going to kill me? :) Also, anyything to look out for when swapping a cat-back. I haven't done one on an e36 but it looks pretty straight forward. Dave 98 M3/4
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#4. Re: [E36M3] UUC/Corsa Exhaust - from Brian Ruiz
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Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2006 16:35:24 -0700 From: "Brian Ruiz" <eurowerke@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] UUC/Corsa Exhaust Dave, No tips, hints, pointers, or $0.02 here, only... I'm jealous. I heard one in person, and I was actually quite amazed by how loud it was... but I think it was pretty new and I'm sure it'd quiet down after a few more miles... it was also attached to a Euro 3.0 liter, not an S50B30US :-P Oh yeah, one hint... spray down the bolts and nuts very generously 2 or 3 times with PB Blaster the night before you intend to do the swap (not driving before you swap it, of course). Also, make sure you have new hardware and gaskets ready to go, especially if you need to resort to destructive means to get the old exhaust off... Brian build 8/95 On 10/23/06, Dave DeBuhr <debuhr@comcast.net> wrote: > > Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2006 14:36:32 -0700 > From: "Dave DeBuhr" <debuhr@comcast.net> > Subject: [E36M3] UUC/Corsa Exhaust > > I must be nuts because I just dropped about $800 for just about > no performance gain for my M3. I ordered the UUC RSC exhaust. > Anyone have any experience with this one? Is my wife going to kill me? :) > > Also, anyything to look out for when swapping a cat-back. I haven't > done one on an e36 but it looks pretty straight forward. > > Dave > 98 M3/4 > > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > >
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#5. Re: [E36M3] UUC/Corsa Exhaust - from Carlos Lopez
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Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2006 21:18:59 -0400 From: "Carlos Lopez" <clopez98m3@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] UUC/Corsa Exhaust On 10/23/06, Brian Ruiz <eurowerke@gmail.com> wrote: > > >I'm jealous. I heard one in person, and I was actually quite amazed by > how > >loud it was... but I think it was pretty new and I'm sure it'd quiet down > >after a few more miles... it was also attached to a Euro 3.0 liter, not > an > >S50B30US :-P I'm pretty sure that exhaust was tuned using US motors, 3.0L and 3.2L, buddy with a 3.2L has the cut & welded prototype in his car. I would also guess that once you put it in a car with a Euro motor, you remove the cats, or do anything to alter the system you're pretty much undoing what Corsa did to remove resonance or whatever you call it from the system. The exhaust is designed to be quiet during normal driving but when you open it up sweet sweet music comes out. I've heard it and I want one. My old UUC TSE drones and resonates like there's no tomorrow, I do enjoy setting off car alarms with it though. ;-P Tips? Buy all new hardware, make sure and get the copper nuts, buy the gaskets ( 2 donut looking things), etc. I've taken my old UUC one on and off by myself, you can balance those bad boys on your leg/foot since they're light. Carlos 98 M3
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Advice needed on plug condition + mystery fluid - from mdriver13@aol.com
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Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2006 22:46:42 -0400 From: mdriver13@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Advice needed on plug condition + mystery fluid Peter, It's good to have changed the plugs, if they were eroded as you described. Also, check either BMP or Bavarian's website under Tech Tips and there is something there about fluids found in the spark plug well. Good luck, Bob Gill 97 ///M3 coupe Philly Region SCCA 2005 Philly Region BSP Champion -----Original Message----- From: peterloron@gmail.com To: e36m3@bmw-m.net Sent: Sun, 22 Oct 2006 4:17 PM Subject: [E36M3] Advice needed on plug condition + mystery fluid Date: Sun, 22 Oct 2006 13:16:44 -0700 From: "Peter Loron" <peterloron@gmail.com> Subject: Advice needed on plug condition + mystery fluid So I was having a problem with the engine stumbling and hesitating. Threw a CEL indicating a bad coil, misfire, and injector on cyl #3. I checked the coils, and all were at the correct resistance. I did a plug change since I didn't know when it had been done last. All six plugs. Several of the electrodes were eroded. Are the colors and deposits normal? Plug well #3 had some liquid at the bottom. When I checked the boot, the liquid had wicked up inside. I soaked it up with a paper towel before changing the plugs. The liquid was strange. My first thought was that it was a mix of coolant and oil. It was less viscous than oil itself should be, and had a slight green/blue cast to it, although the predominant color was brown. If it was a mix of oil+coolant, it was totally blended...no separation was evident, and there was no "mayo". Also, the oil filler cap and the underside of the cover (as far as I could see with a flashlight) were brown and not milky. No drops of coolant were visible there. Plug #3 is the only place I saw any fluid in the well...all 5 others were clean and dry. After changing all the plugs and the boot for coil #3, I went for a short drive. No problems, and I did notice it being smoother. Also, a problem I'd had for a while (knocking sound under hard acceleration...like using cheap gas) also seems to have gone away. Any ideas on the fluid in #3? I know about the valve cover gasket leaking problem (and I have a new one on hand), but how would coolant get into the plug well? Maybe it's something else? Thanks! Pete 98 M3/4 ________________________________________________________________________ Check out the new AOL. Most comprehensive set of free safety and security tools, free access to millions of high-quality videos from across the web, free AOL Mail and more.
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Rear Wheel Bearing R&R (Part 2 of 3)-Long - from Chester Wong
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Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2006 20:43:46 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Rear Wheel Bearing R&R (Part 2 of 3)-Long --- Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> wrote: > 14) Have your helper turn the screw using the 24mm socket, breaker bar and > pipe/jack handle until it's almost impossible to turn any more. Now with a > wood block and a hand sledge hammer, working under the car, whack the screw > just twice, hard! Have your helper turn the screw some more, whack it twice > again. Using this combination of sustained and impulse forces the bearing > will at some point break free and start to move without more blows. > > Warning! The screw is under several tons of tensile force during this > procedure. Keep away from it to the extent possible, just in case. Don't use > an improvised tool; you need a large diameter hardened steel screw that's > made for the purpose. Hum...sounds similar to the rear trailing arm bushing tool when used to pull an old/seized bushing out of the arm. Were pictures posted? I'm trying to visualize how the tool is arranged. With the rear trailing arm tool, I find it helpful and almost necessary to tap on the cup while it's under some tension. I found that if I don't do that, I have to place a lot of tension on the puller. Just wondering if you think it would be possible with the rear bearing toolset... Glad the bastard child has a new set of rear bearings. =) Chester
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#8. p/n for lighted shift knob? - from Kelvin
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Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2006 10:10:58 -0700 From: Kelvin <mpower@obikwan.com> Subject: p/n for lighted shift knob? All, I'm trying to figure out which lighted shiftknob to order. Is #3 the correct one here? http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=BG93&mospid=47488&btnr=25_0014&hg=25&fg=10&hl=109 P/N 25112231550 Is there more than 1 to choose from? Thanks! kelvin
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#9. Re: [E36M3] p/n for lighted shift knob? - from Rex Tener
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Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2006 10:17:22 -0700 From: Rex Tener <rex_tener@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] p/n for lighted shift knob? At 10:07 AM 10/24/2006, Kelvin wrote: >I'm trying to figure out which lighted shiftknob to order. Is #3 >the correct one here? >http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=BG93&mospid=47488&btnr=25_0014&hg=25&fg=10&hl=109 If you want a lighted shift knob, I would just order one from Leather Z. <http://www.leatherz.com/> It will actually match your interior lighting, unlike the one from the factory which looks like it belongs in an Audi. Rex
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#10. RE: [E36M3] p/n for lighted shift knob? - from Scott
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Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2006 10:48:27 -0700 From: "Scott" <stiles_s@hotmail.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] p/n for lighted shift knob? Do you need the wiring too? If so, there's a factory kit (that I purchased) that includes the knob and the wiring. Works like a charm. Lemme know and I can dig up the P/N. -----Original Message----- From: Rex Tener [mailto:rex_tener@yahoo.com] Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2006 10:18 AM To: E36M3 Subject: Re: [E36M3] p/n for lighted shift knob? Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2006 10:17:22 -0700 From: Rex Tener <rex_tener@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] p/n for lighted shift knob? At 10:07 AM 10/24/2006, Kelvin wrote: >I'm trying to figure out which lighted shiftknob to order. Is #3 >the correct one here? >http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=BG93&mospid=47488&btnr=25_001 4&hg=25&fg=10&hl=109 If you want a lighted shift knob, I would just order one from Leather Z. <http://www.leatherz.com/> It will actually match your interior lighting, unlike the one from the factory which looks like it belongs in an Audi. Rex