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#1. Re: [E36M3] Locking mechanism - from Jeff Conner
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Date: Wed, 1 Nov 2006 20:59:16 -0800 (PST) From: Jeff Conner <jeff.conner@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Locking mechanism Bill: I have, actually, had this experience recently. A guy in a pickup backed into me at a stoplight. (I should be picking my car up tomorrow from the shop) He damaged the hood, such that the trip switch, sensor, or whatever you want to call it that tells the alarm "the hood is down" was in an open position. It's possible that some little electronic bit in your car (doors, trunk, hood) is not sending the correct signal. Just a guess. Good luck -jeff 98 ///Sedan - desperately sick of driving the Chevy Impala rental.... ----- Original Message ---- From: Bill Sharp <m3@cueframe.us> To: E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Wednesday, November 1, 2006 5:57:29 PM Subject: [E36M3] Locking mechanism Date: Wed, 1 Nov 2006 19:52:28 -0600 From: Bill Sharp <m3@cueframe.us> Subject: Locking mechanism On our '99 M3, while I get the three beeps when I press the large locking button on the remote locking fob, nothing happens at the car. Same thing with the unlocking button being pressed. I get the three beeps but nothing happens. Has anyone else experienced this or does someone have a remedy? Thanks, Bill Ft. Worth ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Locking mechanism - from Brian Ruiz
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Date: Thu, 2 Nov 2006 03:10:42 -0800 From: "Brian Ruiz" <eurowerke@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Locking mechanism Yeah, one of the doors, trunk or hood isn't closed tight (or the sensor is bad). The three beeps happens when that is the situation. I kinda see it as a feature. :) HTH, Brian build 8/95 On 11/1/06, Bill Sharp <m3@cueframe.us> wrote: > > Date: Wed, 1 Nov 2006 19:52:28 -0600 > From: Bill Sharp <m3@cueframe.us> > Subject: Locking mechanism > > On our '99 M3, while I get the three beeps when I press the large > locking button on the remote locking fob, nothing happens at the car. > > Same thing with the unlocking button being pressed. I get the three > beeps but nothing happens. > > Has anyone else experienced this or does someone have a remedy? > > Thanks, > > Bill > Ft. Worth > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > >
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Re: Front Strut tower deformation - from marty
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Date: Thu, 02 Nov 2006 11:48:56 -0500 From: marty <mfraiser@earthlink.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Front Strut tower deformation David, thanks for the additional confirmation. I'm glad to know that the reinforcment plates don't need to be removed. I think I need to rotate the yellow chromate rectangular part that holds the studs or bend the corner(s) down where it sticks out and interfered with my stock reinforcment part. the part as seen here -> http://www.tcklineracing.com/bigccamber3.jpg (lower right and seen sticking out of the assembled mount). It should be more obvious when I reinstall the stock parts. marty David Ngo wrote: >Date: Wed, 1 Nov 2006 11:57:50 -0800 (PST) >From: David Ngo <rudngo@yahoo.com> >Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Front Strut tower deformation > >I can confirm that you should still use the reinforcement plates even with the TCKline camber plates. I had the TCKline pieces and they started to damage the shock towers on my car. I talked with Pete also and sent him pictures - the deformations matched the form of the camber plates exactly. With the reinforcements, the damage stopped getting worse. > > > >
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#4. E36M3 track car rear toe ? - from Gary
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Date: Thu, 2 Nov 2006 11:07:39 -0600 From: "Gary" <probikeguy@probikeusa.com> Subject: E36M3 track car rear toe ? I just finished up the M3 turbo track car from hell project.. Here is what I have...It gets used some as a street car so I didn't want toe out on front to make it less twitchy. Rear, running -2.5 camber, 0 toe Koni SA set 75% hard (per the Koni Motorsports guys advice) 630lb H&R 2.5in/6inch long springs, with adjustable height, GC Powerflex race bushings in back, RTAB, subframe GC control arms GC upper shock mounts Eibach rear bar, set full soft Front, -2.5 camber with one lower shim, 0 toe, can't remember castor all of these are fixed non adjustable Koni SA set full hard 550lb springs on coilover converters, GC 96 upper mounts flipped, left to right Treehouse racing LCA mounts Eibach bar, set full hard 3/4 rake front to rear, front higher. The ride height is about what I see guys at the track running on their E36 race cars. The car has the turbo stuff on it and a six speed tranny, roll bar. I was worried the extra weight on the nose might make it understeer, that was my reasoning behind 0 rear toe. ? Do I need to add some rear toe, in or out? or just try it out and see how it feels...I figure with the extra weight it should balance out.. Thank you, Gary Gray Pro Bike www.probikeusa.com
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#5. RE: [CR] E36M3 track car rear toe ? - from Ahmad Lutfeali
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Date: Thu, 2 Nov 2006 12:30:56 -0500 From: "Ahmad Lutfeali" <m3_racer99@hotmail.com> Subject: RE: [CR] E36M3 track car rear toe ? Nick, I had the same discussion with Scott Riley a while back and he referred me to Carroll Smiths tuning book. If you get 'too much' to in, the car starts to oversteer again (toe out is obviously an oversteer condition). That said, I followed Scott's advice and purchased a STIFFER than stock rubber toe bushings and then set it up to factory specs. Gary, from what I have learnt/read/observed, one should run -1 degree more in the front (camber) than in the rear. At least for us street car guys with full interior and factory weight distribution. Ahmad -----Original Message----- From: club-racing-list-bounces@bimmers.com [mailto:club-racing-list-bounces@bimmers.com] On Behalf Of Nicholas S. Rubenstein Sent: Thursday, November 02, 2006 12:12 PM To: Gary Cc: E36M3; club-racing-list@bimmers.com Subject: Re: [CR] E36M3 track car rear toe ? I don't think understeer is your concern with a turbo installed... I'd want 3/32" minimum (possibly as much as a quarter inch) toe in on each side. Zero toe just means you get sideways any time you touch the gas in anything other than a straight line. Nick - just enough tinkering knowledge to get himself in real trouble Gary wrote: > I just finished up the M3 turbo track car from hell project.. Here is what I have...It gets used some as a street car so I didn't want toe out on front to make it less twitchy. > > > Rear, running -2.5 camber, 0 toe > Koni SA set 75% hard (per the Koni Motorsports guys advice) 630lb H&R > 2.5in/6inch long springs, with adjustable height, GC Powerflex race > bushings in back, RTAB, subframe GC control arms GC upper shock mounts > Eibach rear bar, set full soft > > Front, -2.5 camber with one lower shim, 0 toe, can't remember castor > all of these are fixed non adjustable Koni SA set full hard 550lb > springs on coilover converters, GC > 96 upper mounts flipped, left to right Treehouse racing LCA mounts > Eibach bar, set full hard > > 3/4 rake front to rear, front higher. The ride height is about what I see guys at the track running on their E36 race cars. > > The car has the turbo stuff on it and a six speed tranny, roll bar. I was worried the extra weight on the nose might make it understeer, that was my reasoning behind 0 rear toe. > > ? Do I need to add some rear toe, in or out? or just try it out and see how it feels...I figure with the extra weight it should balance out.. > > > > > Thank you, > Gary Gray > Pro Bike > www.probikeusa.com > _______________________________________________ > BMW CR SIG Sponsors: > http://www.turnermotorsport.com http://www.impact-engineering.com > http://www.bimmerworld.com > http://www.evosport.com > http://www.diffsonline.com > > _______________________________________________ > Reply to club-racing-list@bimmers.com > http://lists.bimmers.com/mailman/listinfo/club-racing-list > > Version BMW.2 _______________________________________________ BMW CR SIG Sponsors: http://www.turnermotorsport.com http://www.impact-engineering.com http://www.bimmerworld.com http://www.evosport.com http://www.diffsonline.com _______________________________________________ Reply to club-racing-list@bimmers.com http://lists.bimmers.com/mailman/listinfo/club-racing-list Version BMW.2
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#6. Re: [CR] E36M3 track car rear toe ? - from Gary
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Date: Thu, 2 Nov 2006 12:44:38 -0600 From: "Gary" <probikeguy@probikeusa.com> Subject: Re: [CR] E36M3 track car rear toe ? Looks like I can leave it an see what happens. I wanted to run -3.5 on the front but I could not get the 18inch thire to clear and not rub the lower shock perch. Ideally I would like to run -3.5 front and -2.5 on the track and be able to swap back to -2.5 for the track.. I think its time to learn how to do my own alignments ;o) Thanks guys. I'll Be at Barber on Nov 18/19 doing the true test-n tune on the track! Now I just need to finish the other car projects, like the dam race car... Gary ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ralph Warren" <ralph.warren@cox.net> To: "'Gary'" <probikeguy@probikeusa.com>; <club-racing-list@bimmers.com>; "'E36M3'" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Thursday, November 02, 2006 11:31 AM Subject: RE: [CR] E36M3 track car rear toe ? > You're gonna get a lot of input on this but... > > I like zero toe in the front if at all possible and the *slightest* tow in > for the rear. In a perfect world, 0 rear toe is preferred but if it is at > all toe out in the rear then the car becomes a complete mess - so what I > do > it go a curly one in for the rear to make sure it is not out at all - see > where I'm coming from? > > I like the toe in for the front to help with straight-line speed. Try > pushing a car with 0 toe vs. tow in or out - it's way easier. Well... > Your > engine has to work harder to push the car on the straights with toe out - > PLUS you are throwing undo heat into the tires with any toe in or out. > > Sure, slight toe in is stable - and sure, slight toe out helps turn in, > but > I'd make the car work by adjusting other things - and there's a lot of > other > things. > > I don't think that car weight, spring rates, turbo or non, roll bar or not > has anything to do with your toe settings. > > Other input if you want... Your rake is too much to the rear and you > should > have more camber in the front than rear. You do have the argument that > you > are trying to prevent power induced oversteer by adding additional > negative > camber to the rear but your rear springs are still enough to keep things > square (sort to speak). I do like your spring rates overall and I do like > your sway bar settings. Actually, those spring rates are for R-compound > rubber yes? They appear too firm for street tires. > > Have you talked to Evosport on this (Brad perhaps)? They do this stuff > daily and I've worked with them many times setting up cars like yours. > > -Ralph Warren > > > >> -----Original Message----- >> From: club-racing-list-bounces@bimmers.com >> [mailto:club-racing-list-bounces@bimmers.com] On Behalf Of Gary >> Sent: Thursday, November 02, 2006 9:08 AM >> To: club-racing-list@bimmers.com; E36M3 >> Subject: [CR] E36M3 track car rear toe ? >> >> I just finished up the M3 turbo track car from hell project.. >> Here is what I have...It gets used some as a street car so I >> didn't want toe out on front to make it less twitchy. >> >> >> Rear, running -2.5 camber, 0 toe >> Koni SA set 75% hard (per the Koni Motorsports guys advice) >> 630lb H&R 2.5in/6inch long springs, with adjustable height, >> GC Powerflex race bushings in back, RTAB, subframe GC control >> arms GC upper shock mounts Eibach rear bar, set full soft >> >> Front, -2.5 camber with one lower shim, 0 toe, can't remember >> castor all of these are fixed non adjustable Koni SA set full >> hard 550lb springs on coilover converters, GC >> 96 upper mounts flipped, left to right >> Treehouse racing LCA mounts >> Eibach bar, set full hard >> >> 3/4 rake front to rear, front higher. The ride height is >> about what I see guys at the track running on their E36 race cars. >> >> The car has the turbo stuff on it and a six speed tranny, >> roll bar. I was worried the extra weight on the nose might >> make it understeer, that was my reasoning behind 0 rear toe. >> >> ? Do I need to add some rear toe, in or out? or just try it >> out and see how it feels...I figure with the extra weight it >> should balance out.. >> >> >> >> >> Thank you, >> Gary Gray >> Pro Bike >> www.probikeusa.com >> _______________________________________________ >> BMW CR SIG Sponsors: >> http://www.turnermotorsport.com >> http://www.impact-engineering.com >> http://www.bimmerworld.com >> http://www.evosport.com >> http://www.diffsonline.com >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Reply to club-racing-list@bimmers.com >> http://lists.bimmers.com/mailman/listinfo/club-racing-list >> >> Version BMW.2 >> > >
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#7. RE: [E36M3] E36M3 track car rear toe ? - from twisty M3
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Date: Thu, 02 Nov 2006 13:04:41 -0800 From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] E36M3 track car rear toe ? << Rear, running -2.5 camber, 0 toe >> Personally, with -2.5 degrees of camber in the front, I'd probably go down to -2.0 or slightly less in the rear. As for the rear toe, however, I'm sure you'll hear it over and over, but I'd really suggest at least dialing in a little bit of toe-in. It's good stuff. ;) Jonathan L. _________________________________________________________________ Add a Yahoo! contact to Windows Live Messenger for a chance to win a free trip! http://www.imagine-windowslive.com/minisites/yahoo/default.aspx?locale=en-us&hmtagline
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#8. Re: [E36M3] E36M3 track car rear toe ? - from Mdriver13@aol.com
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Date: Fri, 3 Nov 2006 08:10:03 EST From: Mdriver13@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] E36M3 track car rear toe ? In a message dated 11/2/2006 4:16:58 PM Eastern Standard Time, probikeguy@probikeusa.com writes: Koni SA set 75% hard (per the Koni Motorsports guys advice) Would that be about two turns? Bob Gill 97 ///M3 coupe Philly Region SCCA 2005 Philly Region BSP Champion
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#9. Car just hit 192K miles.. few quirks/problems.. - from Jesse Chamberlain
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Date: Fri, 3 Nov 2006 08:42:10 -0500 From: "Jesse Chamberlain" <jesse.chamberlain@gmail.com> Subject: Car just hit 192K miles.. few quirks/problems.. I have a few issues I'm trying to track down on my car. I have a 95 M3 that has 192K miles on it. The first problem, I have a clunk in the front end of the car. To give some history, its been there for about a year, and about 3 months ago, I did a complete refresh of the front end. I have new control arms, new CA bushings, new struts, new strut mounts, new swaybar links, and new inner and outer tie-rods (all of these parts were in-need of being replaced anyways). But after all this work, the clunk is still there. It happens when I go over large bumps, and only sometimes when I go over smaller bumps. The only thing left that I can think it could be are the engine mounts or something that is loose in the engine bay. Would engine mounts cause a clunk in the front end? My biggest fear is that it is something structural, as it has high mileage and has seen upstate NY winters (they use 100% SALT) and New England winters (some rust on the car on the underside). Could there be something structurally broken causing this clunk? I have heard of the front subframe cracking and tearing in some cars. This car since Ive had it has never been tracked or anything like that, its been a street car. I've tried looking around at the front subframe, and it looks OK, but I'm not sure exactly where I should be looking, I could of missed something. My second problem with the car are the brakes. Back when I did all the front end work, I also had a vibration in the steering wheel whenever I would apply my brakes, which I thought was warped rotors. They were on the car for at least 3-4 years, so I bought new rotors and put them in, and it seemed to fix the problem, for about 1-2 weeks. Then the steering wheel vibration came back. Is it possible to warp new rotors that fast? I just bought some new rubber caliper guides and pins, new stainless steel brake lines, and I am going to flush the brake fluid to see if that fixes things. What do people recommend to lube the guide pins with when I reassemble everything? Other than these problems, the car is running strong, just replaced the Cat @190K, as it failed MA state emissions the first time, and then barely passed the re-test. I hope to hit the 200K mark this winter. Now if I can just find some good used Lux sport seats in dove gray to replace my torn fronts... Thanks for the input! ---- Jesse Chamberlain jesse.chamberlain@gmail.com "A Woman is like an artichoke, you must work hard to get to her heart."
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#10. RE: [E36M3] Car just hit 192K miles.. few quirks/problems.. - from Goss, Patrick - PA
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Date: Fri, 3 Nov 2006 08:00:44 -0600 From: "Goss, Patrick - PA" <Patrick.Goss@GMACM.COM> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Car just hit 192K miles.. few quirks/problems.. Wow, 192 very good. Can't comment on the others, but IIRC the service manual states do not lube the caliper guide bushings, clean only. I polished mine with a scotch brite pad and some brake cleaner to make them spotless. After seeing how caked up they were, it was easy to see why they would drag once in awhile after driving when it had not been used at all in a few weeks. Patrick 97 M3/4 -----Original Message----- From: Jesse Chamberlain [mailto:jesse.chamberlain@gmail.com] Sent: Friday, November 03, 2006 8:47 AM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] Car just hit 192K miles.. few quirks/problems.. Date: Fri, 3 Nov 2006 08:42:10 -0500 From: "Jesse Chamberlain" <jesse.chamberlain@gmail.com> Subject: Car just hit 192K miles.. few quirks/problems.. I have a few issues I'm trying to track down on my car. I have a 95 M3 that has 192K miles on it. The first problem, I have a clunk in the front end of the car. To give some history, its been there for about a year, and about 3 months ago, I did a complete refresh of the front end. I have new control arms, new CA bushings, new struts, new strut mounts, new swaybar links, and new inner and outer tie-rods (all of these parts were in-need of being replaced anyways). But after all this work, the clunk is still there. It happens when I go over large bumps, and only sometimes when I go over smaller bumps. The only thing left that I can think it could be are the engine mounts or something that is loose in the engine bay. Would engine mounts cause a clunk in the front end? My biggest fear is that it is something structural, as it has high mileage and has seen upstate NY winters (they use 100% SALT) and New England winters (some rust on the car on the underside). Could there be something structurally broken causing this clunk? I have heard of the front subframe cracking and tearing in some cars. This car since Ive had it has never been tracked or anything like that, its been a street car. I've tried looking around at the front subframe, and it looks OK, but I'm not sure exactly where I should be looking, I could of missed something. My second problem with the car are the brakes. Back when I did all the front end work, I also had a vibration in the steering wheel whenever I would apply my brakes, which I thought was warped rotors. They were on the car for at least 3-4 years, so I bought new rotors and put them in, and it seemed to fix the problem, for about 1-2 weeks. Then the steering wheel vibration came back. Is it possible to warp new rotors that fast? I just bought some new rubber caliper guides and pins, new stainless steel brake lines, and I am going to flush the brake fluid to see if that fixes things. What do people recommend to lube the guide pins with when I reassemble everything? Other than these problems, the car is running strong, just replaced the Cat @190K, as it failed MA state emissions the first time, and then barely passed the re-test. I hope to hit the 200K mark this winter. Now if I can just find some good used Lux sport seats in dove gray to replace my torn fronts... Thanks for the input! ---- Jesse Chamberlain jesse.chamberlain@gmail.com "A Woman is like an artichoke, you must work hard to get to her heart." ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************