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#1. Re: [E36M3] buying new ignition coils - thoughts? - from Mark Duckworth
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Date: Fri, 17 Nov 2006 13:31:20 -0500 From: Mark Duckworth <mdlkml@atari-source.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] buying new ignition coils - thoughts? On Fri, 2006-11-17 at 12:24 -0600, Jim Bassett wrote: > Date: Fri, 17 Nov 2006 10:19:15 -0800 (PST) > From: "Jim Bassett" <jim@jimbassett.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] buying new ignition coils - thoughts? > > On Thu, November 16, 2006 10:17 pm, Theodore Serbinski said: > > So I've been getting check engine lights about one of my coils and > > then misfires as a result for that cylinder. It comes and goes. So > > I'm thinking about replacing it and the rest of the lot. > > I don't remember the troubleshooting path, but I assume you moved the coil > to another cylinder and the misfire followed the coil? > > > What do people recommend? Replace all 6 coils? > > I'd lean toward replacing them all with that mileage, especially if you > plan on keeping the car for the foreseeable future. > > > If so, who to buy from? > > I've had good luck with the OEM stuff Bimmerparts.com. > > > Or of course I can go OEM too and just get the coils (wires too > > should I?). > > Interesting that they show separate coil packs and plug connector for the > '97 M3. When I replaced all the coils on the race car, they were purchased > as one complete assembly (also from Bimmerparts.com) - must be a > difference between 325s and M3s. My opinion is that you should replace the bad one and go. I've got 181,000 on mine and they're still going strong, though I'm starting to get a very very very intermittent idle issue that I think may be one coil starting to go bad. My buddy had an 87 325i_s with 280,000 miles and the coil never went on that car. It's just a transformer and in my electrical experience, they don't tend to degrade, just work or blow. Then again, I had a 1994 Civic whose coil went belly up at only 100,000 miles. I think it's luck of the draw. Thanks, Mark
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#2. 95 M3 alternator - from gary.preece@insightbb.com
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Date: Fri, 17 Nov 2006 14:25:50 -0500 From: <gary.preece@insightbb.com> Subject: 95 M3 alternator Is there a kit to rebuild the alternator? Mine has the 80 amp. Gary
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#3. Re: [E36M3] buying new ignition coils - thoughts? - from Jack - Elephant Motorsports
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Date: Fri, 17 Nov 2006 15:14:26 -0500 From: "Jack - Elephant Motorsports" <jack@elephantmotorsports.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] buying new ignition coils - thoughts? On 11/17/06, Jim Bassett <jim@jimbassett.com> wrote: >>Interesting that they show separate coil packs and plug connector for the '97 M3. When I replaced all the coils on the race car, they were purchased as one complete assembly (also from Bimmerparts.com) - must be a difference between 325s and M3s.>> Actually the difference is between model year M3's more than 325/328/M3. 325's (amongst many others) and '95 M3's use the same coil but 328's (and many others) use the same coil as later M3's (96+). The fact that the earlier versions came with boots is a vendor difference, not a part or application difference. Ealier coils (Bremi), $39/ea w/out boot, $45/ea w/boot Later coils (Bremi), $49/ea w/out boot, $55/ea w/boot Jack Money Elephant Motorsports http://www.elephantmotorsports.com
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#4. RE: buying new ignition coils - thoughts? - from Burgess, Kim L
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Date: Fri, 17 Nov 2006 14:05:05 -0800 From: "Burgess, Kim L" <kim.l.burgess@boeing.com> Subject: RE: buying new ignition coils - thoughts? FI guys are all over them. For NA I don't see the need. KLBurgess -------------------- 8 -------------------- Date: Thu, 16 Nov 2006 22:28:11 -0800 From: "Peter Loron" <peterloron@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] buying new ignition coils - thoughts? I'd just replace the suspect one with a stock part. Hard to say, I think, if the bad coil is a sign that all are near failure or if it is just a bad egg. If you replace one, and then another goes, you could replace the remaining ones. I've never seen any evidence for the supposed benefits of the 'super' coils for our cars - Pete 98 M3/4
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#5. Weird tapping/burbing noise - from Raza Uddin
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Date: Fri, 17 Nov 2006 17:09:43 -0800 From: "Raza Uddin" <raza.uddin@gmail.com> Subject: Weird tapping/burbing noise Just recently (as the weather has started to get colder), I've noticed that within the first 15 minutes of driving, I get a weird, slight tapping/burbing noise from my S52 M3 that can even be felt through the brake pedal. From some research, I've heard it is the heater control vavle solenoid and the sound is pretty normal. Anyone with any insight? It is rather annoying, but I can live with it (for a while) until I really need to replace it (as long as it isn't affecting other things). Thanks in advance! Drive Safely, Raza
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#6. Radio Removal Tool - from Foley, Brian
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Date: Fri, 17 Nov 2006 21:19:54 -0500 From: "Foley, Brian" <bfoley@cmpd.org> Subject: Radio Removal Tool Anyone remember that guy that was selling the radio removal tool for $5-10 or so and can forward that info to me? TIA, Brian Foley
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Stock H/L housings OK with hi-watt bulbs? - from Mark Duckworth
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Date: Sat, 18 Nov 2006 03:24:49 -0500 From: Mark Duckworth <mdlkml@atari-source.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Stock H/L housings OK with hi-watt bulbs? On Wed, 2006-11-15 at 16:27 -0600, Reid Conti wrote: > Date: Wed, 15 Nov 2006 14:21:56 -0800 > From: "Reid Conti" <reid@conti.net> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Stock H/L housings OK with hi-watt bulbs? > > I never got around to running brighter bulbs in mine, but did have > Euro headlights. One thing you will hear over and over again from EEs > is that your electrical system is not designed for 80+ watts, and so > even if you replace the fuses your wiring is probably stranging 80 > watt bulbs. You would have to redo your wiring to see the full > benefit. That said, you should still notice SOME performance increase > in brighter bulbs. > > It's not really a good idea to put brighter lows in the US housings, > the light pattern is such an ugly blob, you will offend people even > more than they do stock. I used 55 watt lows in my euros, and while > its true that they don't seem that bright, I felt that the light was > more useable.. it went town, on the road, and forward ahead of the > car, where the US lights sorta put a blob of light on the road, and a > blob of light straight ahead, but didn't light up "down the road" as > well. Also, the reduction in backscatter made the illuminated road > stand out more than it does with the US lights. > > That said, while you'll notice a dramatic beam improvement with Euros, > you'll need HID to really improve your headlights. I never made it > that far before I sold my car :) Putting an HID setup into US > headlights is not a good idea. > > I also always felt that the euro high beams were much, much better > than the stock ones. Probably largely due to the clear glass lens > instead of pitted yellow plastic! > > ... still trying to figure out what Z3 euro headlights look like, and > if I can get my hands on them.. I miss euro lights so bad! I can probably contribute to this thread. I bought a set of bolt in housings from ebay already retrofitted with Sylvania OSRAM 5500K HID's in the standard US housings. These are illegal because they don't have the light deflector on the bottom of the bulb (not to mention not being a DOT approved combination) and as such will radiate a bit of light directly into oncoming traffic's eye. The glare factor is pretty high. That said, I aimed them down a tiny bit and I stopped being flashed by oncoming traffic. Regarding the lights though, they make a WORLD of difference, especially when installed illegally like that. They light up the road almost as good as my high beams. When used in comparison with the high beams I can see just about 1/4 mile down the road. I've successfully avoided deer at 110MPH with the high beams on and at 85MPH with just the lows - which are speeds that would have creamed someone with lesser lights and who wasn't watching for deer. My work schedule causes me to drive at around 3:00am very often so I consider it one of my most worthwhile investments ever at $159. So to summarize, I get much better light performance, perhaps better than 100watt even at a lower wattage cost because they are more efficient. And my OBC doesn't seem to mind them either. One thing I always wanted to try is Bi-xenons in the low and 100watt standard high beams - rewiring so that the bixenon's kick into high too. That would be some serious fscking light :-P I've seen some other illegal retrofits going down the road, especially in motorcycles but my stance is that I'd rather be inconvenienced with a little glare than have either of us die trying to avoid hitting a deer or some other object using poor US spec lighting. BTW: The HID light color temperature for some reason causes signs to be illuminated from hugely long distances. Like 1/2 mile+! It's much easier on the eyes and such a pretty color too. Highly recommended, even if you're going to go the legal housing route. Thanks, Mark
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Radio Removal Tool - from Rex Tener
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Date: Sat, 18 Nov 2006 10:30:17 -0800 From: Rex Tener <rex_tener@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Radio Removal Tool At 06:34 PM 11/17/2006, Foley, Brian wrote: >Anyone remember that guy that was selling the radio removal tool for >$5-10 or so and can forward that info to me? From the digest: <http://www.bmw-m.net/Digest/Archive_2005_11_digest_4527-4573/digest4533.htm#5> Which points to: <http://www.unofficialbmw.com/all/stereo/radio_removal_tool.html> Rex
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#9. stainless pistons - from Gary Preece
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Date: Sun, 19 Nov 2006 18:20:37 -0500 From: "Gary Preece" <gary.preece@insightbb.com> Subject: stainless pistons Now that they have been out for awhile.any issues? Thanks. Gary 95 M3
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#10.Koni DA Struts and Shocks (Stock spring perches) - from Kirk
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Date: Sun, 19 Nov 2006 17:45:36 -0800 From: "Kirk" <admranger@earthlink.net> Subject: <FS> Koni DA Struts and Shocks (Stock spring perches) Group, I am selling my stock class legal Koni (externally adjustable) Double Adjustable struts and shocks from my 1995 M3 (shocks/struts will fit all E36 chassis cars). I need to get a front strut rebuilt due to a leaky oil seal (or you can do it for roughly $120-140 and deduct off the price of the set). At this time, I'm just trying to gauge interest as I really don't need to sell them until late January when my new secondary sponsor sends me a new set. If you've gotta have them now, just let me know and we'll work something out. Price? Dunno. Make me a fair offer and we'll discuss. Thanks, Kirk Lachman Sin City Chapter '95 M3 #21 I-stock