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#1. WTB: front control arms - from Shelhart2@aol.com
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Date: Sat, 25 Nov 2006 08:46:49 EST From: Shelhart2@aol.com Subject: WTB: front control arms I''ve got a bad ball joint in my "new" 1995 M3 and the dealer doesn't have in stock. Anyone have a new left front or both they'd part with? If not, any suggestions on where I might get one on a Saturday if the dealer doesn't have in stock? Shel Orlando, Fl
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#2. Tape deck issue, and which stereo should I replace it with? - from Paul Andrews
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Date: Sat, 25 Nov 2006 13:37:37 -0500 From: "Paul Andrews" <emosound@verizon.net> Subject: Tape deck issue, and which stereo should I replace it with? Hey all, I'm having an issue with the stock tape deck in my 98. I use a cassette adapter to feed my iPod into the stereo, but recently, the tape deck switches from side A to side B, then back to side A and displays "Tape Error". Is there any fix worth doing to the deck to make it work for a while longer? Or should I just yank it and get a nice aftermarket HU? I was planning on doing that eventually anyway, so what would the group recommend? Bimmerforums can't seem to recommend anything but Alpine, but then complains about lack of radio reception. I'm certainly not opposed to Alpine. I found a nice mid-price Kenwood Excelon at Crutchfield, and now it's on sale with a bunch of free stuff: http://www.crutchfield.com/S-TaOVVTMhQnm/cgi-bin/prodview.asp?I=113KDCX590&w m=cl Here are my requirements: iPod input, I don't want the HU to take over control, tho, because I have the iPod mounted next to the stereo on the dash and can control it just fine from there. This would work great with the Kenwood: http://www.crutchfield.com/S-TaOVVTMhQnm/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?i=127ICKENW I prefer high-voltage pre-amp outputs. I like lots of EQ options, and crossover options on the HU are nice, too. I'd like enough power to at least run the fronts when I replace the speakers down the road. I haven't decided yet if I want to run a sub or keep 6x9's in the back. I hate goofy graphics on the display. I don't mind a different color display than the stock lighting, because it's very hard to find a HU that matches the red BMW lighting. Any recommendations? Paul Andrews 98 M3/4 # 42 STU
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#3. Head Gasket - Bummer - from Mark Duckworth
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Date: Sat, 25 Nov 2006 15:08:02 -0500 From: Mark Duckworth <mdlkml@atari-source.com> Subject: Head Gasket - Bummer Hey guys, In a rough time like this I need some of your collective wisdom, car is a 1996 S52 M3 with 181,000 miles. In a fit of some fun driving I believe I turned a leaking head gasket into a blown head gasket. For the last month I started having some phantom coolant loss. I did a pressure test and found some loss through the overflow hose so I tightened that up and thought I was fine. I also found some issue with the coolant temperature sensor, found that and fixed. Then I thought, hrmm this is a little strange that stuff will start leaking all the sudden. Almost seems like coolant overpressurization. Almost seems like when my chevy blew it's head gasket. I left it sit overnight and when I went out this morning I looked for wet spots and could find none. Where's the coolant been leaking, then I took off the oil cap and found this: http://picasaweb.google.com/evaporated/M3HeadGasket In all of your expert opinions, is there any reason for the slurry other than coolant mixing in? The car has been my daily driver and has not been exhibiting (much) power loss in recent months. I've heard it can get the slurry from moisture buildup from sitting but I've driven it 25 miles each way to work and back the last 7 days. When you inevitably tell me it's head gasket, can you suggest an approximate repair cost and whether or not a moderately intelligent DIYer should attempt it? (I do bushings, tie rod ends, brakes, oil, electronic repairs, radiator, ignition repairs, etc) I don't drive it in the winter which begins for us around mid-december so this isn't that big of a tradgedy since my repair budget is virtually untouched on this car. If I want to keep this car running, does the lower end generally outlast the top end or should I be looking to rebuild completely. Should I do a valve job? What kind of costs could I be getting into? I have about $5K to spend. Any other suggested work while the head is off relating to vanos, etc? Looking for some opinions from experienced readers. Thanks, Mark (guess I'm 100% motorcycle rider and 1995 3000GT drive for now)
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Head Gasket - Bummer - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Sat, 25 Nov 2006 13:04:43 -0800 From: Jim Bassett <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Head Gasket - Bummer At 12:13 PM 11/25/2006, Mark Duckworth wrote: >If I want to keep this car running, does the lower end generally outlast >the top end or should I be looking to rebuild completely. Should I do a >valve job? What kind of costs could I be getting into? I have about >$5K to spend. Any other suggested work while the head is off relating >to vanos, etc? I would say since you're pulling the head, go ahead and do a valve job. I paid for mine, and they were in the $3K neighborhood. If you're not experiencing huge oil consumption - A) you're lucky :-) and B) no need to worry about the bottom end at this point. Although with the mileage on the motor I'd start thinking about having the oil analyzed at each change. I use Blackstone Labs, but there are others. Hope that helps, Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4 - due for a bottom end 1993 325is #44 JP - pix of broken trans soon :-)
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Head Gasket - Bummer - from Mark Duckworth
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Date: Sat, 25 Nov 2006 16:30:31 -0500 From: Mark Duckworth <mdlkml@atari-source.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Head Gasket - Bummer On Sat, 2006-11-25 at 15:13 -0600, Jim Bassett wrote: > Date: Sat, 25 Nov 2006 13:04:43 -0800 > From: Jim Bassett <jim@jimbassett.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Head Gasket - Bummer > > At 12:13 PM 11/25/2006, Mark Duckworth wrote: > >If I want to keep this car running, does the lower end generally outlast > >the top end or should I be looking to rebuild completely. Should I do a > >valve job? What kind of costs could I be getting into? I have about > >$5K to spend. Any other suggested work while the head is off relating > >to vanos, etc? > > I would say since you're pulling the head, go ahead and do a valve job. I > paid for mine, and they were in the $3K neighborhood. > > If you're not experiencing huge oil consumption - A) you're lucky :-) and > B) no need to worry about the bottom end at this point. Although with the > mileage on the motor I'd start thinking about having the oil analyzed at > each change. I use Blackstone Labs, but there are others. Depends what you consider high. During the warmer and harder driving months I tend to about 1qt every 2 weeks. During very moderate normal driving I do 1qt per month. This is with 1500 miles per month or so. I've found oil consumption varies wildly depending on how the car is driven. If I keep the RPM's under 5000, I get much much better oil consumption, which is what I tend to do generally. After you did the head and the gasket, and put other new parts in, how refreshed did the car feel? Thanks, Mark
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Head Gasket - Bummer - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Sat, 25 Nov 2006 16:06:43 -0800 From: Jim Bassett <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Head Gasket - Bummer At 01:33 PM 11/25/2006, Mark Duckworth wrote: >Depends what you consider high. During the warmer and harder driving >months I tend to about 1qt every 2 weeks. During very moderate normal >driving I do 1qt per month. This is with 1500 miles per month or so. 1 quart every 1000 miles or less would be where I'd start saving up for a bottom end (I'm at 1 qt/600-700 miles). >After you did the head and the gasket, and put other new parts in, how >refreshed did the car feel? After doing the valve job on the M3 the car seemed to idle & rev smoother. Coulda been "placebo" effect, though :-) Jim Bassett
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Electric fans - from Walter Jordan
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Date: Sat, 25 Nov 2006 19:23:27 -0500 From: Walter Jordan <m3gtr@adelphia.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Electric fans I use a Wagner 16" push type from autozone... costs $49 and has held up well (I did buy a spare just in case). It had no trouble whatsoever hauling the temp down on a 100F day at the track on several occasions this summer. On Tue, 2006-11-21 at 16:54 -0600, Gary wrote: > Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2006 16:45:15 -0600 > From: "Gary" <probikeguy@probikeusa.com> > Subject: Electric fans > > Since the topic is out.. > > I use a Flex a Lite FLX120 electric fan, works great got it from Summit > racing. cost under 150. > > Gary > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Neil Maller" <neil.maller@gte.net> > To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> > Sent: Tuesday, November 21, 2006 2:34 PM > Subject: [E36M3] Re: Euro Part Purchases > > > > Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2006 15:25:10 -0500 > > From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> > > Subject: Re: Euro Part Purchases > > > > on 11/21/06 3:04 PM, "Burgess, Kim L" <kim.l.burgess@boeing.com> wrote: > > > >> Group - Where have we been going to source Euro parts - Euro Diesel Fan > >> Blade? > > > > Any dealer can order Euro parts, although you may have to hold the counter > > guy's hand to select the Euro model option in the parts system, since many > > have never done that and don't know how. I ordered one several years ago > > from The BMW Store in Cincinnati. > > > > The 325td fan p/n is 11-52-2-243-303. It gives extra clearance to the > > radiator but makes a bit of a GM van wheezing noise. > > > > Neil > > Fort Wayne, IN > > 96 M3 - Bastard child > > 03 525iT - Sterling Grey Metallic > > 05 Mini - Cooper S with LSD > > > > > > > > > > > > ************************************************* > > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > > ************************************************* > > > > > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > >
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Head Gasket - Bummer - from Mark Duckworth
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Date: Sat, 25 Nov 2006 21:56:08 -0500 From: Mark Duckworth <mdlkml@atari-source.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Head Gasket - Bummer On Sat, 2006-11-25 at 18:13 -0600, Jim Bassett wrote: > Date: Sat, 25 Nov 2006 16:06:43 -0800 > From: Jim Bassett <jim@jimbassett.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Head Gasket - Bummer > > At 01:33 PM 11/25/2006, Mark Duckworth wrote: > >Depends what you consider high. During the warmer and harder driving > >months I tend to about 1qt every 2 weeks. During very moderate normal > >driving I do 1qt per month. This is with 1500 miles per month or so. > > 1 quart every 1000 miles or less would be where I'd start saving up for a > bottom end (I'm at 1 qt/600-700 miles). > > >After you did the head and the gasket, and put other new parts in, how > >refreshed did the car feel? > > After doing the valve job on the M3 the car seemed to idle & rev smoother. > Coulda been "placebo" effect, though :-) > > Jim Bassett If we're talking top and bottom being prudent it might be worth it to just go for a Bavarian Engine Exchange motor. $6500. I could install it myself as long as I had a hoist and quite a bit more space than I got now. I'd of course have to price a new clutch, water pump, heater hoses and probably a slew of other parts into that. Then we're getting into the neighborhood of unreclaimed costs. I'd be willing to bet I could never get what I put into it in resale - yet I can't really afford to start building my race car yet, nor would I want to with this thing. The rest of the car is too perfect to get thrashed on a race track. I'm sure it's prudent to rebuild the head but I don't know if I can stomach $3K right around the holidays. I really don't have it at all. Just put a ring on my girl's finger. I have dreams of stroker with shrick cams and a Vac stage 3 head pumping 300+ NA, but with saving up for a house I was kind of looking to get out of the M3 at least temporarily. I was hoping for an E46 at some point but I keep hearing such awful reviews about them combined with the high ticket, I might as well spend my $20K on my love which is this car. With a bunch of mods I could probably wipe the floor with an E46 and get better road feel on top of it. Aside from the power the E46 has nothing Thanks, Mark
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Tape deck issue, and which stereo should I replace it with? - from Kent Shephard
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Date: Sat, 25 Nov 2006 21:52:39 -0800 From: Kent Shephard <Kents@kls-consulting.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Tape deck issue, and which stereo should I replace it with? I have a Kenwood Echelon deck. Works fine with the stock amp/speakers. I have the Sirius receiver and the iPod unit. Works great. Kent Shephard kents@kshephard.com On Nov 25, 2006, at 10:43 AM, Paul Andrews wrote: > Date: Sat, 25 Nov 2006 13:37:37 -0500 > From: "Paul Andrews" <emosound@verizon.net> > Subject: Tape deck issue, and which stereo should I replace it with? > > Hey all, > I'm having an issue with the stock tape deck in my 98. I use a > cassette > adapter to feed my iPod into the stereo, but recently, the tape deck > switches from side A to side B, then back to side A and displays "Tape > Error". Is there any fix worth doing to the deck to make it work > for a > while longer? Or should I just yank it and get a nice aftermarket HU? > I was planning on doing that eventually anyway, so what would the > group > recommend? Bimmerforums can't seem to recommend anything but > Alpine, but > then complains about lack of radio reception. I'm certainly not > opposed to > Alpine. > > I found a nice mid-price Kenwood Excelon at Crutchfield, and now > it's on > sale with a bunch of free stuff: > http://www.crutchfield.com/S-TaOVVTMhQnm/cgi-bin/prodview.asp? > I=113KDCX590&w > m=cl > > Here are my requirements: > iPod input, I don't want the HU to take over control, tho, because > I have > the iPod mounted next to the stereo on the dash and can control it > just fine > from there. This would work great with the Kenwood: > http://www.crutchfield.com/S-TaOVVTMhQnm/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp? > i=127ICKENW > I prefer high-voltage pre-amp outputs. > I like lots of EQ options, and crossover options on the HU are > nice, too. > I'd like enough power to at least run the fronts when I replace the > speakers > down the road. I haven't decided yet if I want to run a sub or > keep 6x9's > in the back. > I hate goofy graphics on the display. > I don't mind a different color display than the stock lighting, > because it's > very hard to find a HU that matches the red BMW lighting. > > Any recommendations? > > > Paul Andrews > 98 M3/4 > # 42 STU > > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > >
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#10. Question: UUC SS brake lines install - from Kurt Hoofnagle
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Date: Sat, 25 Nov 2006 22:12:47 -0800 (PST) From: Kurt Hoofnagle <kurthoofnagle@yahoo.com> Subject: Question: UUC SS brake lines install Ok, I plan to call Rob on Monday on this, but I was hoping to get the car back on the road this weekend--hoping someone can help here. Car is a 7/95 production 95 and as part of a brake caliper rebuild I am replacing the factory brake lines with UUC SS lines. I just installed the right front UUC SS line and the fitting on the end of the SS line where it joins the hard line slips right through the bracket, so even when the SS line is tightened to the hard line their junction is loose on the bracket. To be even more clear, the fitting on the end of the SS hose is smaller in diameter than the hole in the bracket welded to the inner fender. Thus, the soft line is not rigidly held in place by the bracket. The old factory rubber line's metal fitting has a "shoulder" which keeps the fitting from slipping through the bracket. Anyone BTDT? What am I missing here? Many thanks. Kurt Hoofnagle