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#1. Re: [E36M3] Short final drive ratio/6-speed - from Neil Maller
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Date: Sun, 26 Nov 2006 15:08:23 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Short final drive ratio/6-speed on 11/26/06 2:27 PM, Jay Hudson at jwhud@budget.net wrote: > Go to diffsonline.com. Under the tech section is a mph/rpm calculator. You > can make comparisons between your existing ratio and any others you may > consider. I run one of their 3.64 diffs in my car. A 3.73 would also be a > good choice, considering a 5-speed. For track only, at the tracks I frequent, > I could also be happy with a 3.91. Maybe even a 4.10. Diffsonline is great. > Thanks, but the math part is trivial - I don't need help with that. What I'm looking for is practical feedback from people like you who actually use a shorter final drive on the track and/or have made a 6-speed swap. For instance, is it even worth it to put in a 3.46? Neil Fort Wayne, IN 96 M3 - Bastard child 03 525iT - Sterling Grey Metallic 05 Mini - Cooper S with LSD
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#2. Re: Short final drive ratio/6-speed - from Neil Maller
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Date: Sun, 26 Nov 2006 16:00:56 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Short final drive ratio/6-speed on 11/26/06 3:33 PM, Jay Hudson at jwhud@budget.net wrote: > If your car is primarily a track car, I wouldn't waste time on a 3.46. Go > to a 3.64 at least. Lower if it makes sense for the tracks you run. In > hindsight, I'd do a 3.73 or 3.91. Yeah, that's sort of where my thoughts are ending up: that the 3.46 is enough to be mildly annoying on the highway (plus ~250 rpm at cruise) without being really useful at the track. Bottom line: not worth the expense. > Going to a 6-speed will only help if you do a diff too. The ratios for a > 6-speed are the same, or almost the same, as a 5-speed except for 6th which > is an overdrive. Using a 6-speed allows you to go to an even lower gearset. Absolutely: the only point of a 6-speed would be to make a short diff usable when driving to the track. Neil Fort Wayne, IN 96 M3 - Bastard child 03 525iT - Sterling Grey Metallic 05 Mini - Cooper S with LSD
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Short final drive ratio/6-speed - from twisty M3
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Date: Sun, 26 Nov 2006 13:20:02 -0800 From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Short final drive ratio/6-speed I was "this close" to going with a 3.46:1 diff many months ago, but in the same fashion that you're debating if it's a big enough difference to warrant the swap, I actually ended up deciding to go a bit shorter. I went with a diffsonline.com 3.64 instead, and I drive to and from the track (up to 7 hours one-way) with 5-speed. I was driving it as a street car for a whle, and that was completely bearable, and even fun. ;) It does get buzzy on the long drives, but I usually just settle in at about 75-80 and enjoy the full-body massage. It's actually not that bad, but when driving at night, the constant buzz does make me a bit sleepy. Performance-wise, it was WELL worth it. The diff provided a much more noticeable difference than going to cams, and it actually makes it easier to stay in the proper power band on track now too. If I had the money, I'd definitely go to a 6-speed just for the drive to/from track. Of course, if I was going to the expense of a 6-speed I also would probably go with a 3.73 or 3.91. If you already have your hands on a 3.46, I say do it with our without the 6-speed. The difference in acceleration out of corners is noticeable and very much worth it. I think you can survive the track commute if you just find a mostly-legal cruising speed. I'm pretty much always out of the ticketing zone now, which also helps a little bit with fuel mileage, but with cams and diff, I find myslef averaging only 20MPG on those trips. Jonathan L. _________________________________________________________________ View Athlete’s Collections with Live Search http://sportmaps.live.com/index.html?source=hmemailtaglinenov06&FORM=MGAC01
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#4. Question: UUC SS brake lines install - from Mo Karamat
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Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2006 00:15:58 -0500 From: Mo Karamat <karamatm@optonline.net> Subject: Question: UUC SS brake lines install Kurt, Hello, I had the same issue with Stoptech lines in my 98 M3/4 a few years back. The way I resolved it was to use a Home Depot Washer in between the factory bracket, and the neck on the SS line. This held the end of the line nice and tight in the factory bracket. Regards Mo 98 M3/4 - StopTech lines 95 M3 IP #786 - UUC Brake lines 91 325IX - Someone's SS brake lines.. :) -------------------- 10 -------------------- Date: Sat, 25 Nov 2006 22:12:47 -0800 (PST) From: Kurt Hoofnagle <kurthoofnagle@yahoo.com> Subject: Question: UUC SS brake lines install Ok, I plan to call Rob on Monday on this, but I was hoping to get the car back on the road this weekend--hoping someone can help here. Car is a 7/95 production 95 and as part of a brake caliper rebuild I am replacing the factory brake lines with UUC SS lines. I just installed the right front UUC SS line and the fitting on the end of the SS line where it joins the hard line slips right through the bracket, so even when the SS line is tightened to the hard line their junction is loose on the bracket. To be even more clear, the fitting on the end of the SS hose is smaller in diameter than the hole in the bracket welded to the inner fender. Thus, the soft line is not rigidly held in place by the bracket. The old factory rubber line's metal fitting has a "shoulder" which keeps the fitting from slipping through the bracket. Anyone BTDT? What am I missing here? Many thanks. Kurt Hoofnagle
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#5. 3.38 with 6speed, I have one - from Gary
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Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2006 08:58:46 -0600 From: "Gary" <probikeguy@probikeusa.com> Subject: 3.38 with 6speed, I have one I have the 3.38 and a euro six speed in my car. All I can say is its about perfect! Any shorter gearing and you can't hit 60mph in second gear, I have my rev limiter set to 7200, a chip or flasher is normally set at 7100. On the Highway it rolls 80mph @ 2900/3000rpm. It is slightly heavier but not noticeable.. even when I had the five speed the 3.38 was about perfect. It just feels like the gear the car SHOULD have been sold with.. One thing you immediately notice is the quality of shifts with a short shift kit on the euro six speed...I have a RE octane shift kit AND I bought a Weighted ZHP six speed knob. I have never had a BMW that's shifts so good! Its almost on par with my Miata. Super short throws and very direct feel I would highly recommend a Euro box shift kit combo. With the euro box you can use your stock clutch/flywheel/slave cylinder etc. So If you have a LTW flywheel you do not have to buy anything else. I have a UUC STG2M5 flywheel and one of their ceramic puck clutches. Its grabby but I wanted a fool proof clutch that would hold up to 500hp, my goal with the turbo car... Hope that helps... Thank you, Gary Gray Pro Bike www.probikeusa.com
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#6. FW: Intermittent ABS & ASC lights--Fixed - from Avedis, Alexander (US SSA)
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Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2006 11:08:27 -0500 From: "Avedis, Alexander (US SSA)" <alexander.avedis@baesystems.com> Subject: FW: Intermittent ABS & ASC lights--Fixed I had a chance to have the code read and it mentioned the left rear wheel speed sensor signal issue. Replaced the sensor and all the lights went out and no more random pulsating on the brake pedal. Thanks for the assistance. Alex 98 M3/4 92k miles NJ Chapter ====================================================================== From: Jim Bassett <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] ABS problem At 04:11 PM 1/3/04, Kris Welhart wrote: >I am having a problem with my ABS system on my 4/94 build M3. The light >is being triggered for no apparent reason. I cannot repeat the fault >and it will come on without even using the brakes, usually under >acceleration. I had the codes read and they virtually every code was >stored. Anyone have a similar experience or any suggestions? Was there any fault code from the ABS computer? My guess might be the same fault/situation that several of us have experienced, but with the ABS & ASC lights - faulty brake pedal travel switch. This was generating fault "132" on one code reader, and "brake pedal travel" fault on another reader. If you have one of those faults, replace the switch. I posted my procedure a couple of days ago, check the archives. Hope that helps, Jim Bassett -----Original Message----- From: Avedis, Alexander (US SSA) Sent: Thursday, September 14, 2006 10:00 PM To: 'M3 Digest' Subject: Intermittent ABS & ASC lights Every so often at start up after sitting overnight, before even moving the car, I feel an intermittent pulsation in the brake pedal followed by the ASC & ABS lights coming on in the dash. I can also hear and feel a vibration directly in front of me like it is on the other side of the firewall. Once the car is warmed up by driving it, it does not do this and if the lights were on before [at the initial start] they may or may not come on again. Other times there is no pulsing or lights at initial startup. The brakes themselves work fine and actually seem a little crisper [i.e. they respond faster to pedal input] when the lights are on. Is this an intermittent relay or is the ABS pump in the process of failing? Anybody have any ideas? I'll try to get a code read the next time the lights stay on. Thanks. Alex 98 M3/4 89k miles NJ Chapter
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#7. Steering Wheel question need help ! - from kwill69058@comcast.net
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Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2006 18:55:56 +0000 From: kwill69058@comcast.net Subject: Steering Wheel question need help ! Hi, I purchased a M3 steering wheel off of ebay for a decent price. I noticed upon receipt that there is a black plastic tab that sticks out from the under side of the wheel that is broken. I am pretty sure it is to trigger the turn signals. Is this something I can repair by taking the airbag assy off and going in through the front side to replace it or does this come out from the underside? Signed: Driving in circles. :) Keith 95 M3 Blk/Blk Confortied, Loaded, Loved.
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#8. Anyone with CARFAX? - from Mdgreer
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Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2006 15:14:37 -0500 (EST) From: "Mdgreer" <mark.greer@excite.com> Subject: Anyone with CARFAX? I'm looking at an M3 VIN: WBSBL93474PN55018 Email is mark.greer@excite.com Thanks, _______________________________________________ Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com The most personalized portal on the Web!
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#9. Re: [E36M3] 95 M3 rattle when RPMs come down - from Brian Ruiz
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Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2006 12:50:09 -0800 From: "Brian Ruiz" <eurowerke@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] 95 M3 rattle when RPMs come down Kelvin, If you haven't yet replaced your primary tensioner, go ahead and do it. The original tensioner is simply a semi weak spring, which by this time is quite tired if it has never been replaced. The new tensioner is a newer design and will help tighten up the timing chain nicely. P/N is 11 31 1 405 081. When I changed mine, it quited down the engine a good deal. A writeup is here: http://www.geocities.com/rick_poon/tensioner.htm I bought a huge deep 32 mm socket from a Snap On truck to do the job, which was about $40. Sears just didn't have a deep socket large enough. If perhaps you have a source for large sockets, 32mm is the proper size I believe, but in a bind a 1.25" might just make it. Then again, if you really don't worry care too much about getting the exact torque when reinstalling the new tensioner a simple 32mm wrench would work too... and just look at that, the nut for the fan clutch is 32mm too... :-P HTH, Brian build 8/95 On 11/23/06, Mpower <mpower@obikwan.com> wrote: > > Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2006 15:01:32 -0800 > From: Mpower <mpower@obikwan.com> > Subject: 95 M3 rattle when RPMs come down > > All, > I just put in a JC/Turner chip into my '95 M3. I took the car around for > a > spin to see how she would feel after installation of the chip. (feels > good). > > However, on the drive back, I noticed a rattling noise that was coming > from > the front of the car. Blip the throttle (not in gear), and when the revs > come down it rattles. > > Opened up the hood, and blipped the throttle from the throttle body, and I > can hear it. It's coming from the front of the valve cover. Where the > VANOs unit is I believe. It doesn't matter if I blip the throttle up to > 3k > or just a tap to 1k, when the revs drop it rattle right before the car is > going to idle RPM. > > I did some searching and everyone has different ideas of what this might > be. > Is this a VANOs issue or a timing chain tensioner issuer? If it's the > tensioner, which one? The primary or the secondary? (hoping it's the > primary as that's the easiest to replace!) > > Most importantly, will this hurt the car to drive it? > > Any help/input would be appreciated! > > Thanks > -kelvin > > > ________________________________________________ > Message sent using UebiMiau 2.7.9 > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > >
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#10. Tire wear - suspension issue? - from Carl Stern
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Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2006 14:11:06 -0700 From: Carl Stern <carl.stern@xilinx.com> Subject: Tire wear - suspension issue? I just noticed that the inside edges of my rear tires are showing considerable wear compared to the rest of the tire. I'm going to rotate them, but was wondering if this is a normal M3 wear pattern or a sign of something else needing attention, rear wheel alignment, RTABs, RSMs, etc. Car is a 95 M3, 48k miles with completely stock and original suspension and alignment. Tires are 235/40-17 Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-D3 on stock 7.5" wheels. Tires probably have close to 20k miles on them. They have seen a DE or two and one AutoX. thanks, Carl