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#1. Re: Tire wear - suspension issue? - from Steve Klein
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Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2006 15:51:02 -0600 From: Steve Klein <s.klein@steveklein.cc> Subject: Re: Tire wear - suspension issue? Have you checked the rear camber adjustment bolt on the lower control arms? It's eccentric and rotates within two stamped risers to push the bottom of the wheel hub out or in for adjusting camber. I was playing around with those last year and forgot to dial it back out before running a season on my snow tires and the rears are exactly as you describe, from 1/4 tread on the outside to near cording slick on the inside. HOWEVER, if you haven't touched these since your last alignment it may be indicative of other looming issues as you described. I think only the rear control arm bushings would cause that symptom, but many of those wiser will correct me if I'm wrong. Steve 11/95 ///M3 On Nov 27, 2006, at 3:13 PM, Carl Stern wrote: > Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2006 14:11:06 -0700 > From: Carl Stern <carl.stern@xilinx.com> > Subject: Tire wear - suspension issue? > > I just noticed that the inside edges of my rear tires are showing > considerable wear compared > to the rest of the tire. > I'm going to rotate them, but was wondering if this is a normal M3 > wear pattern or a > sign of something else needing attention, rear wheel alignment, > RTABs, RSMs, etc. > > Car is a 95 M3, 48k miles with completely stock and original > suspension and alignment. > Tires are 235/40-17 Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-D3 on stock 7.5" wheels. > Tires probably have > close to 20k miles on them. They have seen a DE or two and one AutoX. > > thanks, > Carl
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#2. Cause for the Climate Control Unit Fix? - from Johnny Lee
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Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2006 17:03:12 -0500 From: "Johnny Lee" <arionatof@gmail.com> Subject: Cause for the Climate Control Unit Fix? I have read about the climate control fix and having the car at over 110K mikes, I figure it is the likely cause for the problem I am seeing. Neverthelss, just want to confirm with the list. When I am trying to use the heat, the system will work fine at the beginning in having regular fan speed and blow hot air. But after a while it will start blowing cool air. Could the climate control unit be at fault and would I be able to fix it with the 0.47 microfarad capacitor fix? When I leave the car overnight driving the next day I can smell some coolant smell in the cabin. Could the heater core had gone bad? But I never see the fogging issues under the windshield and such during summer or winter. Thanks in advance for the help. Johnny 98 M3/4 115K
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#3. 32 mm tool use ...was...RE: 95 M3 rattle when RPMs come down - from Burgess, Kim L
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Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2006 14:11:48 -0800 From: "Burgess, Kim L" <kim.l.burgess@boeing.com> Subject: 32 mm tool use ...was...RE: 95 M3 rattle when RPMs come down Tie Rods, VANOS Actuator, Fan Clutch Nut, Primary Tensioner - apparently all 32mm. -------------------- 9 -------------------- Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2006 12:50:09 -0800 From: "Brian Ruiz" <eurowerke@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] 95 M3 rattle when RPMs come down Kelvin, If you haven't yet replaced your primary tensioner, go ahead and do it. The original tensioner is simply a semi weak spring, which by this time is quite tired if it has never been replaced. The new tensioner is a newer design and will help tighten up the timing chain nicely. P/N is 11 31 1 405 081. When I changed mine, it quieted down the engine a good deal. A write-up is here: www.geocities.com/rick_poon/tensioner.htm I bought a huge deep 32 mm socket from a Snap-On truck to do the job, which was about $40. Sears just didn't have a deep socket large enough. If perhaps you have a source for large sockets, 32mm is the proper size I believe, but in a bind a 1.25" might just make it. Then again, if you really don't worry care too much about getting the exact torque when reinstalling the new tensioner a simple 32mm wrench would work too... and just look at that, the nut for the fan clutch is 32mm too... :-P
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#4. Re: [E36M3] 95 M3 rattle when RPMs come down - from Mpower
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Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2006 15:05:08 -0800 From: Mpower <mpower@obikwan.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] 95 M3 rattle when RPMs come down Brian et all, I'm somewhat confused with which p/n I should order. If you take a look at this page: http://e30m3performance.com/installs/installs-3/tensioner/ They have both US and Euro p/n's. The US '95 p/n is the same as the post '96 Euro p/n. Yet the US 3.2L p/n is different all together. If you go to realoem.com they tell you to use the 081 p/n. http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=BF93&mospid=47486&btnr=11_1285&hg=11&fg=25&hl=53 (item #15) In this link: http://www.geocities.com/rick_poon/tensioner.htm they use the 081 p/n also. Bottomline, which one should I be using? I have a '95 (7/94 build date). Should I be using the 081 one? Thanks! -kelvin --------- Original Message -------- From: Brian Ruiz <eurowerke@gmail.com> To: E36M3 <E36M3@bmw-m.net>, Mpower <mpower@obikwan.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] 95 M3 rattle when RPMs come down Date: 27/11/06 20:50 > Kelvin, > > If you haven't yet replaced your primary tensioner, go ahead and do > it. The original tensioner is simply a semi weak spring, which by this > time is quite tired if it has never been replaced. The new tensioner > is a newer design and will help tighten up the timing chain nicely. > > P/N is 11 31 1 405 081. When I changed mine, it quited down the engine a good deal. > > A writeup is here: http://www.geocities.com/rick_poon/tensioner.htm > > I bought a huge deep 32 mm socket from a Snap On truck to do the job, > which was about $40. Sears just didn't have a deep socket large > enough. If perhaps you have a source for large sockets, 32mm is the > proper size I believe, but in a bind a 1.25" might just make it. > > Then again, if you really don't worry care too much about getting the > exact torque when reinstalling the new tensioner a simple 32mm wrench > would work too... and just look at that, the nut for the fan clutch is > 32mm too... :-P > > HTH, > Brian > build 8/95On 11/23/06, Mpower <mpower@obikwan.com> wrote: > Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2006 15:01:32 -0800From: Mpower <mpower@obikwan.com>Subject: 95 M3 rattle when RPMs come downAll,I just put in a JC/Turner chip into my '95 M3. I took the car around for a > spin to see how she would feel after installation of the chip. (feelsgood).However, on the drive back, I noticed a rattling noise that was coming fromthe front of the car. Blip the throttle (not in gear), and when the revs > come down it rattles.Opened up the hood, and blipped the throttle from the throttle body, and Ican hear it. It's coming from the front of the valve cover. Where theVANOs unit is I believe. It doesn't matter if I blip the throttle up to 3k > or just a tap to 1k, when the revs drop it rattle right before the car isgoing to idle RPM.I did some searching and everyone has different ideas of what this might be. Is this a VANOs issue or a timing chain tensioner issuer? If it's the > tensioner, which one? The primary or the secondary? (hoping it's theprimary as that's the easiest to replace!)Most importantly, will this hurt the car to drive it?Any help/input would be appreciated! > Thanks-kelvin________________________________________________Message sent using UebiMiau 2.7.9*************************************************Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.comTurner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.comEurosport High Performance > http://www.eurosporthighperformance.comRogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.comTreehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.comDIGEST INFORMATION:http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > ________________________________________________ Message sent using UebiMiau 2.7.9
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#5. re: new ignition coils - from Theodore Serbinski
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Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2006 18:09:33 -0500 From: Theodore Serbinski <stanson@gmail.com> Subject: re: new ignition coils Well guys, I'm happy to announce that after replacing *all* of my ignition coils with brand new ones on my '97 with 111k miles, the car is running great. The idle is so much smoother and the car feels really smooth throughout the whole torque band now. And no more check engine lights... for now, knock on wood, haha. Thanks everyone for the help and thanks to Jack at Elephant Motorsports for having a great deal on a brand new, unused set lying around, perfect timing :-) ted
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Short final drive ratio/6-speed - from James Clay
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Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2006 20:35:07 -0500 From: "James Clay" <james@bimmerworld.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Short final drive ratio/6-speed My vote is a 3.64. I had a 3.91 and a 3.73 in my daily driver for a while. Not much difference in the 3.64 (I only changed to go to the big Euro case), but it is what I like. 3.46 would be dropping too much. I cruise through town in 3rd gear, first is completely usable versus the 3.91, and 6th is very nice on the interstate. I have the same 3.64 gears in my E90 street car also - for me, it is what works. James Clay http://www.bimmerworld.com http://www.bimmerworldracing.com http://www.powerflexusa.com Race Proven BMW Performance 877.639.9648
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#7. Re: [E36M3] 95 M3 rattle when RPMs come down - from Brian Ruiz
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Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2006 19:24:09 -0800 From: "Brian Ruiz" <eurowerke@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] 95 M3 rattle when RPMs come down Kelvin, Yes, the 081 is the one you should use. It's what I used anyway. :) I didn't know there were different numbers for the tensioners...the Euro engines' tensioners probably wouldn't work right in our US engines anyway (?) Mine's an 8/95 build, a year newer than yours, but it most definitely should work in your car. HTH, Brian On 11/27/06, Mpower <mpower@obikwan.com> wrote: > > Brian et all, > I'm somewhat confused with which p/n I should order. > > If you take a look at this page: > http://e30m3performance.com/installs/installs-3/tensioner/ > > They have both US and Euro p/n's. The US '95 p/n is the same as the post > '96 Euro p/n. Yet the US 3.2L p/n is different all together. > > If you go to realoem.com they tell you to use the 081 p/n. > http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=BF93&mospid=47486&btnr=11_1285&hg=11&fg=25&hl=53 > > (item #15) > > In this link: http://www.geocities.com/rick_poon/tensioner.htm they use > the 081 p/n also. > > Bottomline, which one should I be using? I have a '95 (7/94 build date). > > Should I be using the 081 one? > > Thanks! > -kelvin
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Cause for the Climate Control Unit Fix? - from Brian Ruiz
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Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2006 19:36:44 -0800 From: "Brian Ruiz" <eurowerke@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Cause for the Climate Control Unit Fix? I'm not writing about the capacitor fix, but I wanted to say that I experience the same thing with the coolant smell when first turning on the heat in the morning. I've been wondering if my heater core has gone bad as well, and I'm worried about coolant leaking into the passenger compartment (as it did when the heater core went bad in my old E30, which I was never able to completely clean out after it soaked into the carpet sound deadening foam). Brian build 8/95 On 11/27/06, Johnny Lee <arionatof@gmail.com> wrote: > > Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2006 17:03:12 -0500 > From: "Johnny Lee" <arionatof@gmail.com> > Subject: Cause for the Climate Control Unit Fix? > > I have read about the climate control fix and having the car at over > 110K mikes, I figure it is the likely cause for the problem I am > seeing. Neverthelss, just want to confirm with the list. When I am > trying to use the heat, the system will work fine at the beginning in > having regular fan speed and blow hot air. But after a while it will > start blowing cool air. Could the climate control unit be at fault > and would I be able to fix it with the 0.47 microfarad capacitor fix? > When I leave the car overnight driving the next day I can smell some > coolant smell in the cabin. Could the heater core had gone bad? But > I never see the fogging issues under the windshield and such during > summer or winter. > > Thanks in advance for the help. > > Johnny > 98 M3/4 115K > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > >
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#9. Resolution of SS lines install issue - from Kurt Hoofnagle
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Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2006 22:49:14 -0800 (PST) From: Kurt Hoofnagle <kurthoofnagle@yahoo.com> Subject: Resolution of SS lines install issue Many thanks to Jay, Martin, Mo and others who replied on and off list. I solved the problem in a similar fashion to Mo's suggestion--with a thin 9/16 id bushing from the hardware aisle at the local Ace. Was just the right size to keep the fitting at the end of the SS line from pulling through the tab that's welded to the inner fender, thus allowing the line to be rigidly held to the tab once the hard line was tightened down onto the fitting (probably hard to understand if you haven't had this apart on your car). I did talk to Rob at UUC about this. He noted that this was a somewhat rare problem, usually experienced on early production cars. He suggested trying a washer. Since I like UUC, I think I might send Rob a few of these bushings with a suggestion that they consider including them with the lines, just in case. Kurt H. 95 prepping for GGC Laguna Seca day in January!
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#10. Bulb experiences? - from Russ Doucet
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Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2006 09:24:04 -0500 From: "Russ Doucet" <russ@russdoucet.com> Subject: Bulb experiences? ------=_NextPart_001_0173_01C712CE.F241CCF0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I'd like to put clear euro signal housings on my car to match the euro = headlights, to replace the stock amber plastic. Any recommendations for = bulbs to put in? I'd like them to look as normal as possible when = indicating, in other words, very orange, but unobtrusive when not in = use. There are enough options to make my head spin = http://lightlens.com/coloredbulbs.htm for example, so your experience = and pics would be great... Anyone tried bulbs like this: = http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BMW-E36-CHROME-Invisible-Bulbs-for-Clear-C= orner-Lights_W0QQitemZ120046939862QQcmdZViewItem they look pretty, but = how well do they work for indicating? (that's item 120046939862for those that have trouble with the link) Also, in looking at that long lightlens.com list, I'm wondering about = replacing the brake lights with LED cluster packs -- still want to stick = with the stock assemblies back there but I'd like the increased = response time of LED bulbs vs incandescent, but I don't want to set off = the computer warning. Any advice? Anyone ever tried it? On another note, one of my 2-month old Sylvania Silverstar H1's burned = out where the lower solder joint is -- filament is fine. Anyone else = ever have this happen? They're like $30 a pop up here, not very pleased = with the failure. But the lighting performance is good. -Russ. ------=_NextPart_001_0173_01C712CE.F241CCF0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable <!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN"> <HTML><HEAD> <META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; = charset=3Diso-8859-1"> <META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2900.2995" name=3DGENERATOR> <STYLE></STYLE> </HEAD> <BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff> <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I'd like to put clear euro signal = housings on my=20 car to match the euro headlights, to replace the stock amber = plastic. Any=20 recommendations for bulbs to put in? I'd like them to look as = normal as=20 possible when indicating, in other words, very orange, but unobtrusive = when not=20 in use. There are enough options to make my head spin <A=20 href=3D"http://lightlens.com/coloredbulbs.htm">http://lightlens.com/color= edbulbs.htm</A> for=20 example, so your experience and pics would be great...</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Anyone tried bulbs like this: <A=20 href=3D"http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BMW-E36-CHROME-Invisible-Bulbs-for= -Clear-Corner-Lights_W0QQitemZ120046939862QQcmdZViewItem">http://cgi.ebay= ..com/ebaymotors/BMW-E36-CHROME-Invisible-Bulbs-for-Clear-Corner-Lights_W0= QQitemZ120046939862QQcmdZViewItem</A> =20 they look pretty, but how well do they work for indicating?</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>(that's item <SPAN class=3Debay><TD = nowrap=3D"nowrap"=20 align=3D"right"><FONT face=3D"Times New Roman" = size=3D3>120046939862</FONT></TD><TD=20 align=3D"right" valign=3D"top"><IMG height=3D8=20 src=3D"http://pics.ebaystatic.com/aw/pics/globalAssets/rtCurve.gif" = width=3D8><FONT=20 face=3D"Times New Roman"><FONT size=3D3>for those that have trouble with = the=20 link)</TD></FONT></FONT></SPAN></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Also, in looking at that long=20 lightlens.com list, I'm wondering about replacing the brake lights = with LED=20 cluster packs -- still want to stick with the stock assemblies = back there=20 but I'd like the increased response time of LED bulbs vs incandescent, = but I=20 don't want to set off the computer warning. Any advice? = Anyone ever=20 tried it?</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>On another note, one of my 2-month old = Sylvania=20 Silverstar H1's burned out where the lower solder joint is -- = filament is=20 fine. Anyone else ever have this happen? They're like $30 a = pop up=20 here, not very pleased with the failure. But the lighting = performance is=20 good.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>-Russ.</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML> ------=_NextPart_001_0173_01C712CE.F241CCF0--