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#1. RE: [E36M3] to 335i or not to 335i? - from Matthew Teel
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Date: Thu, 7 Dec 2006 19:07:31 -0900 From: "Matthew Teel" <mteel@beluga.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] to 335i or not to 335i? I only wish I didn't have a daughter fresh out of college and still living at home, a son still in college and another getting ready to start college. But then again, there is little in life as rewarding as great children. As good as that new M3 might be, it can't be THAT good. I just keep telling myself that since it aint gonna happen any time soon. ;) -Matthew '98 M3 w/133K on it. -----Original Message----- From: mdriver13@aol.com [mailto:mdriver13@aol.com] Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2006 6:34 PM To: E36M3 Subject: Re: [E36M3] to 335i or not to 335i? Date: Thu, 07 Dec 2006 22:31:14 -0500 From: mdriver13@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] to 335i or not to 335i? Gentlemen, All this talk about an "ordinary" 3-series has me very excited about the potential of the upcoming e90 M3. I can already feel the power from that wicked V8! ;-)) cheers, Bob Gill 97 ///M3 coupe Philly Region SCCA 2005/2006 Philly Region BSP Champion Sponsored by WCC & Rogue Engineering -----Original Message----- From: Graeme.Weston-Lewis@lsi.com To: e36m3@bmw-m.net Sent: Thu, 7 Dec 2006 1:44 PM Subject: RE: [E36M3] to 335i or not to 335i? Date: Thu, 7 Dec 2006 11:34:40 -0700 From: "Weston-Lewis, Graeme" <Graeme.Weston-Lewis@lsi.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] to 335i or not to 335i? You have to take one for a test drive - just leave the checkbook at home :) Have fun, Graeme --------- ________________________________________________________________________ Check out the new AOL. Most comprehensive set of free safety and security tools, free access to millions of high-quality videos from across the web, free AOL Mail and more. ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#2. Re: [E36M3] to 335i or not to 335i? - from Robert Puertas
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Date: Thu, 7 Dec 2006 20:34:59 -0800 From: "Robert Puertas" <Puertas@cox.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] to 335i or not to 335i? It seems like most of the handling "feel" criticisms could be addressed by decent tires rather than run-flats, and a more agressive alignment. How long before Quaiffe comes out with an LSD for it? Robert Puertas
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#3. S50 in to 96+ M3 - from Stan Shaw
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Date: Thu, 7 Dec 2006 23:58:29 -0500 From: "Stan Shaw" <Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net> Subject: S50 in to 96+ M3 I submitted a question to BMWCCA Club Racing last week, but haven't received a response. Does anyone know if I can put an S50 motor in a 96 M3 and run it as a 95 M3 with regard to classing? Seems to be more S50 than S52 motors available out there. Regards, Stan Shaw Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net Phone: (413) 599-0399 Fax: (413) 599-0421 Excell.Net Owner/Operator http://www.Excell.Net/ 928 Owners Club President http://www.928OC.org/ 928Racing.net Team Member http://www.928Racing.net/ "Liberty once lost is lost forever." - John Adams
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#4. RE: [e36m3] [E36M3] S50 in to 96+ M3 - from Marco
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Date: Thu, 7 Dec 2006 21:17:04 -0800 From: "Marco" <m3driver@iname.com> Subject: RE: [e36m3] [E36M3] S50 in to 96+ M3 Same weight, same hp, same class so I'd be 99.9% sure it's not an issue. In years past when the 3.0L and 3.2L were in IP and HP it might have been a problem but not now. Now if you stick a Euro motor in it you're in trouble ;-) I find it hard to believe there are more S50s out there than S52s. Maybe the S50 guys are upgrading. Marco -----Original Message----- From: Stan Shaw [mailto:Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net] Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2006 9:04 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [e36m3] [E36M3] S50 in to 96+ M3 Date: Thu, 7 Dec 2006 23:58:29 -0500 From: "Stan Shaw" <Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net> Subject: S50 in to 96+ M3 I submitted a question to BMWCCA Club Racing last week, but haven't received a response. Does anyone know if I can put an S50 motor in a 96 M3 and run it as a 95 M3 with regard to classing? Seems to be more S50 than S52 motors available out there. Regards, Stan Shaw Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net Phone: (413) 599-0399 Fax: (413) 599-0421 Excell.Net Owner/Operator http://www.Excell.Net/ 928 Owners Club President http://www.928OC.org/ 928Racing.net Team Member http://www.928Racing.net/ "Liberty once lost is lost forever." - John Adams ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm ************************************************* -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.15.14/578 - Release Date: 12/7/2006 1:27 AM
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#5. Re: [E36M3] M3 temp sending unit (was temp gauge reading low) - from Mark Duckworth
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Date: Fri, 08 Dec 2006 08:04:07 -0500 From: Mark Duckworth <mdlkml@atari-source.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] M3 temp sending unit (was temp gauge reading low) On Thu, 2006-12-07 at 18:24 -0600, Tom Yee wrote: > Date: Thu, 07 Dec 2006 19:18:35 -0500 > From: "Tom Yee" <tomgsr@hotmail.com> > Subject: M3 temp sending unit (was temp gauge reading low) > > Hello, Gruppe, > > After a suggestion from another member, I tried bypassing the sending unit > with a resistor (actually, one and then two in series). > > A little history: after a cooling system service that included a coolant > change, new hoses, thermostat, and coolant pump plus the coolant sensor (the > blue one with two terminals), the temp gauge read about a quarter scale > lower than previously. The engine seems to come up to temp and is steady at > the new (different) reading, and there is plenty of heat (140 degrees F at > drivers side, side of dash output) and the thermostat seems to indicate > about 90 degrees celsius at the thermostat using an infra red (?) device. > > Today, with the key in run (engine not running), I started to experiment. I > disconnected the connector at the sending unit and the gauge read full cold. > I measured the resistance at the sending unit and got about 60 ohms. I > substituted a 47 ohm resistor (grounded the other end) and the gauge read > about where it used to, a couple needles left of vertical. Then I > susbstituted two resistors in series (i.e., about 94 ohms) and the gauge > read slightly left of 'new', post-service position. > > I am still thinking that, for some reason, the OEM thermostat replacement is > opening a bit early and the coolant isn't quite at the full hot temperature. > > Am I making sense? Has anyone experienced similar thermostat anomalies? > > Thanks for any insight! > > Regards, > Tom Yee > 88 M3 Tom, This is precisely how my old thermostat failed, except I really wasn't getting good heat out of the dash vents (though it was dead cold). I also noticed that after a month or so of the car seeming to take longer and longer to warm up, eventually the temperature would bounce a little bit. Hotter, colder, hotter and colder during warm up. Once I saw this I was absolutely sure the problem was the thermostat. And it was. HTH, Mark 96 M3
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#6. Re: [E36M3] S50 in to 96+ M3 - from Mark Duckworth
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Date: Fri, 08 Dec 2006 08:07:46 -0500 From: Mark Duckworth <mdlkml@atari-source.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] S50 in to 96+ M3 On Thu, 2006-12-07 at 23:04 -0600, Stan Shaw wrote: > Date: Thu, 7 Dec 2006 23:58:29 -0500 > From: "Stan Shaw" <Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net> > Subject: S50 in to 96+ M3 > > I submitted a question to BMWCCA Club Racing last week, but haven't received > a response. Does anyone know if I can put an S50 motor in a 96 M3 and run > it as a 95 M3 with regard to classing? Seems to be more S50 than S52 motors > available out there. Well and especially if you go the Euro S50B32 route. That's one awesome setup. Despite my comments, I don't know the answer to your question :-P Thanks, Mark
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#7. Re: [E36M3] to 335i or not to 335i? - from mdriver13@aol.com
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Date: Fri, 08 Dec 2006 08:30:17 -0500 From: mdriver13@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] to 335i or not to 335i? "Mass is mass. I doubt that anyone that post in the newsgroups and fourms would care a bit if they decontented a bit. Maybe we wouldn't need a 500Hp V10 to motavate it." How true. Those PTG guys have yet to come close to equaling the track success they had with the e36M3's. The Corvette guys are happy campers since GM finally got it right and down sized the newest vette! Since all current 3 series BMW are really 5 series size, when will the top guys at BMW get it right again? Bob Gill 97 ///M3 coupe Philly Region SCCA 2005/2006 Philly Region BSP Champion Sponsored by WCC & Rogue Engineering -----Original Message----- From: richardsperry@comcast.net To: e36m3@bmw-m.net Sent: Wed, 6 Dec 2006 4:04 PM Subject: [E36M3] to 335i or not to 335i? Date: Wed, 6 Dec 2006 15:58:31 -0500 From: "Richard Sperry" <richardsperry@comcast.net> Subject: to 335i or not to 335i? ------------------------------------------- From: Scott McClung <smlists@pacbell.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] to 335i or not to 335i? The E90 platform has a good bit more room than the E36 too - especially back seat and trunk space. It is a bigger car, however - quite a bit wider and a little longer and a bit heavier but not as much as you would think by looking at it. ------------------------------------------ I'll say. The E46 was within a few inches and pounds of the older 5 series cars. And the E90 is even bigger. I don't care how you try to disguise it, More power, bigger wheels, tires, and brakes. Mass is mass. I doubt that anyone that post in the newsgroups and fourms would care a bit if they decontented a bit. Maybe we wouldn't need a 500Hp V10 to motavate it. Rant off, Flame suit on. ________________________________________________________________________ Check out the new AOL. Most comprehensive set of free safety and security tools, free access to millions of high-quality videos from across the web, free AOL Mail and more.
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#8. Re: Diff Swap-Rebuild - from RFKoby@aol.com
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Date: Fri, 8 Dec 2006 08:35:15 EST From: RFKoby@aol.com Subject: Re: Diff Swap-Rebuild a few people expressed interest in doing a diff rebuild, or to swap the pinion and spool to get a different ratio. If anyone wants an exploded picture diagram, send me a private email and I will make something up this weekend. Here is the procedure to do a diff tear down for a rebuild or pinion and spool swap: Label everything, or at least lay out everything carefully as you disassemble. 1.) Drain the diff, and remove the diff from car. 2.) Remove the cover, remove the side bearing plates (6 bolts), and the spool will come out. Do not get the side plates mixed up, mark them for each side. They "look" the same, but these are spaced with the large washer to center the spool and maintain correct gear lash / spacing. 3.) Loosen and remove the input nut. Remove the input flange. 5.) Stand the diff up on it back. Place a block of wood inside to cushion the when it drops. If you have a hydraulic press, press out the pinion, it will drop out after it moves about 1" or use a large drift pin on the center of the pinion and sledge hammer. HIT IT REALLY HARD. 6.) Once the pinion drops out, you will see the crush sleeve. When you torque the assembly, the inner and outer pinion bearings seat against this and it gets crushed as you torque the input nut. YOU CANNOT REUSE THIS! You ALWAYS have to use a NEW CRUSH SLEEVE. This is a $2 part. If you are doing a diff swap, continue reading.... If you are doing a diff rebuild, see added notes at the end. If you are swapping pinion and LSD spools for different ratios, repeat the above steps on the donor diff. Keep all the parts separate from each diff. 7.) Set aside the pinion (inner bearing on it) and LSD spool (with bearings on side) from the diff you are changing the ratio. Now take the pinion (inner bearing on it) and LSD spool (with bearings on side) from the diff you are stealing the ration from. 8.) Place a new crush sleeve on the pinion, then re-insert pinion into case. 9.) Place case on its back with a block of wood supporting the pinion in position. 10.) [you may want to install a new input bearing seal, better now then do this all over again...] Lube the input seal and flange with a little gear oil. Place the input flange over the end of pinion showing thru the outer bearing. 11.) Press, or pound, until the pinion has enough threads showing thru the input to start the input nut on. I use a little high strength Loctite here..... 12.) VERY, VERY CAREFULLY torque the nut a little at a time. Check the amount of play in the pinion and bearings. Spin the pinion and feel the play. Continue to torque the nut a little at a time, and check bearing play. Repeat until there is no play, and just a hint of bearing pre-load. Spin the pinion and it should have not play, spin smooth, with only a hint of drag from the bearing pre-load and oil film. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THIS, TOO MUCH PRELOAD WILL OVER HEAT THE PINION BEARING AND WEAR THEM OUT VERY FAST. DO NOT USE THE BENTLE TORQUE, DO THIS BY FEEL..... If you go too far, you will have to take it apart and get another crush sleeve. This is a one time shot, so take you time torquing the nut and checking for play. 13.) Carefully replace spool, and carefully install side plates. 14.) Torque side plate bolts, and spin input and check everything. If it does not spin, then the spool and side plate will need to get shimmed. For the 4 diffs that I have rebuilt, I have not had to reshim, the spool. 15.) Install cover and speed sensor, fill with oil, and that's it! If you are doing a diff rebuild for one that had LSD spool bolt come out and shattered in the ring and pinion teeth, thoroughly rinse, wash, and clean the case and all parts. I use kerosene, and lots of brake clean. Inspect all bearings and replace anything that is suspect. Label everything, or at least lay out everything carefully as you disassemble. The inner pinion bearing is pressed on the pinion shaft. If you have to, or want to replace this, you will have to very carefully score the race with a cutoff wheel. Then strike the race with a center punch to crack it, then it will slide off. Installing a new pinion bearing is not easy. The best way I found is to shrink the pinion with dry ice, and carefully heat the bearing to about 200, it will slide onto the shaft..... else you will need a hydraulic press.... Something else to check. The LSD spool end cap is cast iron, and is held to the spool with 8 small M8 bolts. The spool (clutch plates) have a lot of compression force (preload). Under extreme acceleration, the LSD spool is pushing itself apart, and these small M8 bolts start to get loose, or the end cap on the LSD breaks a piece off, and/or the small bolt start to backed out. The small pieces (or bolt) get thrown around, break the speed sensor, and get shattered and ground up by the ring and pinion. The resulting metallic particles very quickly eat up the bearings. Swapping diff parts is easy.... just remember to keep the pinion and spool match to each other. Keep the side plates matched to the case and mark them for which side it came from. all the bearings on medium case differentials are the same. because of this, you can swap the pinion and spool with all medium case diffs without having to take the matching bearing races out of the donor diff. As long as the bearing are in good coniditon. There is no need to remove the races for a swap. The hardest part about rebuilding a diff is pressing out the pinion.
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#9. e30 M3 DM chassis/shell for sale? - from Tucker Ryals
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Date: Fri, 8 Dec 2006 06:38:45 -0800 (PST) From: Tucker Ryals <tuckerryals@yahoo.com> Subject: e30 M3 DM chassis/shell for sale? Gruppe, I recently saw an ad somewhere on the net about an e30 M3 rolling chassis/shell for sale, but now I can't find it. IIRC, the car (w/o drivetrain) is in California and used to be a DM car in CCA Club racing. Does anyone recall seeing the same post or can anyone put me in touch with this car/owner? Thanks, Tucker ____________________________________________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail beta. http://new.mail.yahoo.com
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#10. RE: seat rehab? - from Burgess, Kim L
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Date: Fri, 8 Dec 2006 07:25:47 -0800 From: "Burgess, Kim L" <kim.l.burgess@boeing.com> Subject: RE: seat rehab? I swapped the bottom seat cushion (Vader's) from passenger's seat-to-driver's seat and vise-versa to buy a little more time. I didn't know that the cushion were so inexpensive. I have not heard of anyone simply swapping seat nor have I tried. KLB -----Original Message----- From: gary.preece@insightbb.com To: e36m3@bmw-m.net Sent: Wed, 6 Dec 2006 11:24 PM Subject: [E36M3] seat rehab? Can you swap out the passenger seat for the driver's seat while refurbishing the driver's seat? I plan to replace the cushions and heater element while trying to refinish the leather. Leatherique? Thanks. Gary