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#1. Bilsteins - from Shelhart2@aol.com
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Date: Sun, 10 Dec 2006 20:25:07 EST From: Shelhart2@aol.com Subject: Bilsteins Well, The seat back is fixed. A couple strategically placed L brakets, pop rivets and gorilla glue and it is like new. Now that the front end is back to like new I've noticed the suspension isn't very stiff. I'm not certain what springs are on the car but it sits pretty low. There are fairly new Bilsteins on the car (non adjustable) as well. I get a slight amount of rubbing under a decent load and not very precise cornering. Question: Due to the fairly new nature of the bilsteins, should I just replace the springs with something stiffer or are the bilsteins weak themselves? I don't want to drop $1,500+ on a coil over setup right now. Any suggestions on restoring the crispness I'm accustomed to around the corners without breaking the bank? Shel 1995 M3 2002 Boxster S
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#2. Re: [E36M3] to 335i? Slighty OT (now road feel) - from mdriver13@aol.com
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Date: Sun, 10 Dec 2006 20:25:51 -0500 From: mdriver13@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] to 335i? Slighty OT (now road feel) If I were to spend $70K+ on a car I think 911 or Cayman S would be a better call. Z06 was pretty numb in the feedback dept. compared to a proper German sports car.... Good call here, Scott. I agree. To me I love that feeling of being totally connected to the road, that's why I love my M3! Wasn't it Road and Track that say you could feel the thickness of three quarters through the steering wheel. cheers, Bob Gill 97 ///M3 coupe Philly Region SCCA 2005/2006 Philly Region BSP Champion Sponsored by WCC & Rogue Engineering ________________________________________________________________________ Check out the new AOL. Most comprehensive set of free safety and security tools, free access to millions of high-quality videos from across the web, free AOL Mail and more.
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#3. Introduction - from Rick
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Date: Sun, 10 Dec 2006 20:54:34 -0500 From: "Rick" <rickcooke@rcn.com> Subject: Introduction I am excited to be back to the list. I sold my 95 M3 with 160K miles last year and bought a E46 325Ci with sport package. Ho hum. Heavy and dull. Last week I found a '96 M3 with 20K miles. Nearly a 'bubble car' as it is completely original and in show condition. It has only been driven 2500 miles in the last 3 years. So the question is what maintenance should I do on the car? Fluids are obvious - oil, anti freeze and brake fluid. How about the transmission or rear end? Tires look original -Michelin MXXX - one has some checking in between treads but all have plenty of tread left. Still safe? Are the radiators considered a time bomb with age or with mileage? Any advise would be appreciated. Rick 96 M3 - the new daily driver 88 M3 - GQ 01 325 - for sale
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#4. Re: [E36M3] to 335i? Slighty OT - from Rex Tener
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Date: Sun, 10 Dec 2006 17:51:19 -0800 From: Rex Tener <rex_tener@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] to 335i? Slighty OT At 11:54 PM 12/9/2006, Scott M wrote: >If I were to spend $70K+ on a car I think 911 or Cayman S would be a >better call. I would be all over the Cayman except for the resale value. I don't want eat $30K to $40K in depreciation over the first three to four years, which is where the Boxster S is at right now. I am not sure the Cayman will be any better in that area. Rex
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#5. Re: [E36M3] to 335i? Slighty OT - from Mark Dadgar
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Date: Sun, 10 Dec 2006 18:46:24 -0800 From: Mark Dadgar <mark@pdc-racing.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] to 335i? Slighty OT On Dec 10, 2006, at 6:04 PM, Rex Tener wrote: >> If I were to spend $70K+ on a car I think 911 or Cayman S would be >> a better call. > > I would be all over the Cayman except for the resale value. I > don't want eat $30K to $40K in depreciation over the first three to > four years, which is where the Boxster S is at right now. I am not > sure the Cayman will be any better in that area. Think of it as an opportunity to buy a phenomenal car only 3-4 years old at a $30K-40K discount. - Mark ----- mark@pdc-racing.net Check out my JustRacing Home Page at: http://www.justracing.com/homepage/mdadgar
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#6. Re: [E36M3] to 335i or not to 335i? - from David Thomas
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Date: Sun, 10 Dec 2006 19:51:55 -0800 From: David Thomas <dave@sasdatalink.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] to 335i or not to 335i? On Saturday 09 December 2006 10:24 am, Mark Duckworth wrote: > > From: "R. Bruce Shafer" <mzealot@bellsouth.net> > > Subject: Re: [E36M3] to 335i or not to 335i? > > > > Not to be pessemistic, but the new 335I should drive the price of the E46 > > M3 down. Anybody with me? > > Sorry to all the E46 owners but I hope anything drives the E46's down. > I want a 5-speed with just over 100,000 miles for less than $25K. Right > now, that's not happening. It seems most of them are simply undriven > with 20K miles or less! Such a waste :-P > Yep...I would also love to see the price of these cars being driven down by newer 'better' model. I like to buy them 5-10 years old and get a hell of a deal. The newer cars, frankly, don't have anything to offer me as I refuse to pay that much for a car....its just not worth it with so many great used cars available these days... Dave
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Introduction - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Sun, 10 Dec 2006 20:12:34 -0800 (PST) From: "Jim Bassett" <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Introduction On Sun, December 10, 2006 6:04 pm, Rick said: > I am excited to be back to the list. Welcome back! > Last > week I found a '96 M3 with 20K miles. Oh great, another "bastard child" - Hi Neil :-) And, do us a favor, go put some MILES on that car :-) > Fluids are obvious - oil, anti freeze and brake fluid. How > about > the transmission or rear end? If it were my "new" car, I'd change 'em, just so I new they were freshly changed. There shouldn't be an issue with low-mileage, 10-year-old fluid, but I'd rather *know*. > Tires look original -Michelin MXXX - one has > some checking in between treads but all have plenty of tread left. Still > safe? I would definitely consider new tires. Rubber does in fact deteriorate with age. > Are the radiators considered a time bomb with age or with mileage? I would think it has to do with the heat-cycles the radiator goes through that causes the plastic to deteriorate, so you may be OK. No warranty expressed or implied, however :-) Jim Bassett
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Introduction - from jeff.conner@yahoo.com
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Date: Sun, 10 Dec 2006 20:44:20 -0800 (PST) From: jeff.conner@yahoo.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Introduction Weclcome Back, Rick! I'll parrot Jim's adivce/opinon/soapox (oops, sorry about that one...) Just change all the fluids. Rad/Oil/Steering/Brake/Trans/Diff...you'll just feel better. And you never know what little things you might spot while you're doing it. As for the radiator, I was told by a very realiable mechanic (read: the guy I take my car to when the problem is over my head) and he confirms Jim's theory. It's more about heat cycles than time -jeff 98///Sedan From: "Jim Bassett" <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Introduction On Sun, December 10, 2006 6:04 pm, Rick said: > I am excited to be back to the list. Welcome back! > Last > week I found a '96 M3 with 20K miles. Oh great, another "bastard child" - Hi Neil :-) And, do us a favor, go put some MILES on that car :-) > Fluids are obvious - oil, anti freeze and brake fluid. How > about > the transmission or rear end? If it were my "new" car, I'd change 'em, just so I new they were freshly changed. There shouldn't be an issue with low-mileage, 10-year-old fluid, but I'd rather *know*. > Tires look original -Michelin MXXX - one has > some checking in between treads but all have plenty of tread left. Still > safe? I would definitely consider new tires. Rubber does in fact deteriorate with age. > Are the radiators considered a time bomb with age or with mileage? I would think it has to do with the heat-cycles the radiator goes through that causes the plastic to deteriorate, so you may be OK. No warranty expressed or implied, however :-) Jim Bassett ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports..com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm ************************************************* ____________________________________________________________________________________ Have a burning question? Go to www.Answers.yahoo.com and get answers from real people who know.
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Bilsteins - from LoweSeaton@aol.com
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Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2006 01:25:35 EST From: LoweSeaton@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Bilsteins Shel, It sounds like you have some ill designed or mis-matched springs. You said the front sits low? The ride height has nothing to do with the Bilsteins or any strut for that matter. [Well not much anyway. The Bilsteins are gas charged so they want to be fully extended. It takes some effort to keep them compressed. I never measured it but I'd say it takes about 30 lbs to compress my Bilstein struts. So take the equivalent of 30 lbs off each corner and that is how much the springs should uncompress. Less than 1/2"] If you are getting rubbing with moderate load (say 2 people in the car), then I suspect your springs are too short or too soft or both. And if you think the front sits too low, then I suspect your springs are too short. If you can't identify the springs, I would replace them first. It is possible the PO hacked the springs and just cut a coil off to lower the car. Who knows what you have. OE style springs are fairly cheap, approximately $300 for all four. If the Bilsteins are new, then I doubt they have both failed already. It is possible but I doubt it. Plus, Bilsteins have a lifetime guarantee so you can send them back for repair if that is the problem. Lowell Seaton '95 M3 w/Dinan springs and obscenely stiff early production Bilstein struts/shocks
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#10. RE: [E36M3] Introduction - from Paul L Fisher
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Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2006 06:03:56 -0600 From: "Paul L Fisher" <bmw@paul-fisher.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Introduction I would change ALL fluids. Original tires? I would replace. BMW recommends 6 years on tires. Paul L Fisher 2000 M Roadster E36/7 S52 Cosmos Black Metallic 1989 325ix E30 M20 Cinnabar Red Become a BMW CCA Member! Elkhorn, WI. -----Original Message----- From: Rick [mailto:rickcooke@rcn.com] Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 8:04 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] Introduction Date: Sun, 10 Dec 2006 20:54:34 -0500 From: "Rick" <rickcooke@rcn.com> Subject: Introduction I am excited to be back to the list. I sold my 95 M3 with 160K miles last year and bought a E46 325Ci with sport package. Ho hum. Heavy and dull. Last week I found a '96 M3 with 20K miles. Nearly a 'bubble car' as it is completely original and in show condition. It has only been driven 2500 miles in the last 3 years. So the question is what maintenance should I do on the car? Fluids are obvious - oil, anti freeze and brake fluid. How about the transmission or rear end? Tires look original -Michelin MXXX - one has some checking in between treads but all have plenty of tread left. Still safe? Are the radiators considered a time bomb with age or with mileage? Any advise would be appreciated. Rick 96 M3 - the new daily driver 88 M3 - GQ 01 325 - for sale -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.15.15/581 - Release Date: 12/9/2006 3:41 PM