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#1. =?iso-2022-jp?B?GyRCMnNKJCEnGyhCIFtlMzZtM10gW0UzNk0zXSBWaWJyYXRpb24=?= - from Teddy Lam
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Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2007 01:32:04 -0800 (PST) From: Teddy Lam <teddy080799@yahoo.com.hk> Subject: =?iso-2022-jp?B?GyRCMnNKJCEnGyhCIFtlMzZtM10gW0UzNk0zXSBWaWJyYXRpb24=?= Thanks for the reply, Marco. Let me provide more information: Is the vibration present when the clutch is in? What about out? >>Vibration presents with both clutch in and out. Has it always had the vibration or is the vibration new? >>That starts to appear lately (in recent months). Previously, the car get a bit vibration when cold but idle perfectly after warm up to the working temp. But now, it vibrates both cold and hot. :( Is it a european engine or a US engine? >>European engine. My garage had a check on the engine and fuel supply before. Both seem to be working fine and exhaust content is on par with factory specs now and before..... Guys, any clues on what areas that I should look at?? Teddy ----- 郵件原件 ---- 寄件人﹕ Marco Romani <mromani@constinv.com> 收件人 Teddy Lam <teddy080799@yahoo.com.hk> 傳送日期﹕ 2007 年 1 月 9 日 星期二 下午 2:20:05 主題： RE: [e36m3] [E36M3] Vibration Teddy, Is the vibration present when the clutch is in? What about out? Has it always had the vibration or is the vibration new? Is it a european engine or a US engine? Marco -----Original Message----- From: Teddy Lam [mailto:teddy080799@yahoo.com.hk] Sent: Monday, January 08, 2007 10:15 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [e36m3] [E36M3] Vibration Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2007 22:12:24 -0800 (PST) From: Teddy Lam <teddy080799@yahoo.com.hk> Subject: [E36M3] Vibration Hello~ I am pretty new to this M3 list and this is my first time to post here. Are you guys all from the US? You guys are so lucky that you can have tracks readily accessible. :) I have a manual 4/96 E36 M3 3.2 for almost 2 years now. It was running in complete original form. Currently I get a little problem on my M3 and I have no luck that the local garage here cannot have it properly fixed after a few tries. We have no clue on it¡KThe car has a little bit of vibration during idle. This vibration can be felt through the steering wheel and through the seats. However, with air-con on, with the engine idle lift a bit the vibration is reduced much¡KApparently this is not a strong vibration but it¡¦s a bit annoying to me because I will have air-con off quite often. Also when I engaged in rear gear, a rough engagement and vibration can be felt in the clutch pedal¡KThe garage here helped me to replaced the engine mounts, transmission mounts, transmission oil already. Recently, my car has a gasoline smell problem but we have replaced all of the leaking valves and hoses, with reflash of factory programme already. The gasoline smell problem gone but the vibration is still here¡K Do you guys have any experience or suggestion with this? _______________________________________ YM - Â÷½u°T®§ ´Nºâ§A¨S¦³¤Wºô¡A§AªºªB¤Í¤´¥i¥H¯d¤U°T®§µ¹§A¡A·í§A¤Wºô®É´N¯à¥ß§Y¬Ý¨ì¡A¥ô¦ó»¡¸Ü ³£ÉN¨«¥¢¡C http://messenger.yahoo.com.hk ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm ************************************************* -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.16.7/619 - Release Date: 1/7/2007 6:29 PM _______________________________________ YM - 離線訊息 就算你沒有上網，你的朋友仍可以留下訊息給你，當你上網時就能立即看到，任何說話都冇走失。 http://messenger.yahoo.com.hk
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#2. Problem with my clutch this morning.. - from Jesse Chamberlain
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Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2007 07:16:23 -0500 From: "Jesse Chamberlain" <jesse.chamberlain@gmail.com> Subject: Problem with my clutch this morning.. This morning I had a problem with my 95 M3 with manual transmission . When I went to start the car and I depressed the clutch, it went right to the floor and there was no resistance. It also wouldn't come back up without me pulling it up, again no resistance. It seems like the pedal is disconnected from the slave cylinder. I checked the brake fluid, and its full, so I don't think there is a leak. When I parked the car sunday night, it was driving and shifting fine, without any problems. Any ideas what to look for when I get under the car tonight? Thanks for the help. Jesse Chamberlain -- Huntington, MA
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#3. Re: Problem with my clutch this morning.. - from Steve Klein
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Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2007 08:02:49 -0600 From: Steve Klein <s.klein@steveklein.cc> Subject: Re: Problem with my clutch this morning.. Sounds exactly like the seal on the slave cylinder is gone. I had the same thing happen at a friends house on a chilly morning, with exactly the symptoms you describe. You'll have to jack the car and replace the slave on the driver's side of the transmission bell housing. Not horribly difficult, but not too fun either if you need your car and it's chilly out. Be careful bleeding it, tho, especially with it out of the car. You can depress the plunger by hand, but if you try pushing the clutch pedal without having it bolted in, you'll most likely push the plunger past the seals, necessitating another slave cyl. Hope this helps, Steve On Jan 9, 2007, at 6:25 AM, Jesse Chamberlain wrote: > Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2007 07:16:23 -0500 > From: "Jesse Chamberlain" <jesse.chamberlain@gmail.com> > Subject: Problem with my clutch this morning.. > > This morning I had a problem with my 95 M3 with manual transmission . > When I went to start the car and I depressed the clutch, it went right > to the floor and there was no resistance. It also wouldn't come back > up without me pulling it up, again no resistance. It seems like the > pedal is disconnected from the slave cylinder. I checked the brake > fluid, and its full, so I don't think there is a leak. When I parked > the car sunday night, it was driving and shifting fine, without any > problems. Any ideas what to look for when I get under the car > tonight? > > Thanks for the help. > > Jesse Chamberlain > -- Huntington, MA
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#4. Remote door locks - from John Hoffner
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Date: Tue, 09 Jan 2007 08:52:03 -0600 From: John Hoffner <jhoffner@gcfinc.com> Subject: Remote door locks I have a non M specific question that I hope this board can help with. The remote door locks on my daughters 97 328 work for the back doors but have stopped operating for the front doors. Where do you suggest I start to diagnose this problem? Thanks, John
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#5. S50 FS on Ebay - from Gary
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Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2007 09:17:57 -0600 From: "Gary" <probikeguy@probikeusa.com> Subject: S50 FS on Ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280068672330 I have my S50 FS on eBay if you know anyone needing one send them to Ebay. Thank you, Gary Gray Pro Bike www.probikeusa.com
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#6. RE: [E36M3] S50 FS on Ebay - from Goss, Patrick - PA
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Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2007 09:30:54 -0600 From: "Goss, Patrick - PA" <Patrick.Goss@GMACM.COM> Subject: RE: [E36M3] S50 FS on Ebay Nice and clean, good luck with the sale! -----Original Message----- From: Gary [mailto:probikeguy@probikeusa.com] Sent: Tuesday, January 09, 2007 10:25 AM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] S50 FS on Ebay Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2007 09:17:57 -0600 From: "Gary" <probikeguy@probikeusa.com> Subject: S50 FS on Ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2800686723 30 I have my S50 FS on eBay if you know anyone needing one send them to Ebay. Thank you, Gary Gray Pro Bike www.probikeusa.com ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#7. FS: 2003 X5 with Nav SF Bay Area - from Mpower
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Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2007 07:33:59 -0800 From: Mpower <mpower@obikwan.com> Subject: FS: 2003 X5 with Nav SF Bay Area Folks, my sister is selling her 2003 X5. She just picked up an '07 so this is now for sale. She's asking $25,500 for it. Contact me for more information. Thanks -kelvin Here are the details: 2002 X5 3.0 Steel gray w/gray leather interior light wood 78000ish miles (I'll check next time i'm out there!) premium package (sunroof/moonroof, power seats) sport package cold weather package rear climate package (sunshades for rear windows) navigation automatic transmission (steptronic) NEW tires!!! NEW battery!!! in dash cd player 6 disc cd changer in trunk xenon headlights power rear seats garaged...one owner...non smoking.. ________________________________________________ Message sent using UebiMiau 2.7.9
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#8. Re: Seat Bracket and Harness Install - from Neil Maller
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Date: Tue, 09 Jan 2007 10:35:19 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Seat Bracket and Harness Install on 1/9/07 1:25 AM, kresener@aol.com wrote: > HMS Motorsports seems to have the seats, sliders, and mounting brackets that I > need, has anyone used their brackets and sliders? I've been led to believe > that the sliders can be tricky, and that some may be more difficult to make > work correctly than others. Any words of wisdom out there or suggestions on > other sliders and brackets? I have the Recaro Speed seats, which are bottom mounted using the Recaro slider mechanism and TC Kline brackets. This works very well. For side mount racing seats HMS can give you good advice. Those VAC brackets are pricey, but people do like them. You're tall, so lowering the seat would be good. > On the harnesses, I know that the Schroths come with pretty detailed > instructions on where to locate the mounts in the car. Aside from locating > those exact spots relative to the seat and my body in the seat and ensuring > that I don't drill through any wires under the carpet, is there any "gotcha's" > in drilling for the crotch straps and the inside lap belt mounts? I'm > thinking that the front bolt that holds the slider bar that the bottom of the > stock three point belt rides on down behind the door may provide a good > mounting spot for the outer lap belt, has anyone used that? Darn, why haven't > I paid more attention to those mounting spots on other cars when I've been at > the track?! That outboard bolt you refer to is well-positioned. If you're going to use permanently installed lap harness runs you can simply bolt the outer one in place there. Or for snap-in installation buy this very nicely made adapter from Brey-Krause: <http://www.hmsmotorsport.com/store/schroth/competition-accessories/brey-kra use-harness>. The inboard lap harness is a bit more difficult. The easiest is to fit an eyebolt through the floor as near to the transmission tunnel as possible, using a 4x4 inch SCCA pattern steel backing plate. But there are disadvantages to this. On the driver's side there are fuel and brake lines under the car in that area, but you should be OK on the passenger side. However this mounting location does slightly turn the lap harness run. You'll get better geometry by mounting to the side of the transmission tunnel. However for that you really need to take off the exhaust and the driveshaft in order to remove the heatshield and get access for the backing plate. (At some point while these are dropped for another purpose I'll probably redo mine this way, using another set of the B-K adapters.) Lastly there's the sub mounting. On cars with carpet this can be tricky. This is because the carpet in that area has a thick styrofoam backing, so the real floorpan is actually a long way down. There's also a boxed crossmember which can be in the way, depending on where you have the seat positioned. You're quite a bit taller than me, so what works for you may not be the same. My advice is to carefully peel back the carpet from the rear to find good points to drill through. Unfortunately the stock forward seat mounts are usually too far forward for good sub routing. Note too that correct sub angle will be a function of fore/aft seat position, so choose carefully. You'll also need to remove one section of the Schroth subs and substitute different snap brackets to make them short enough for this straight-down mounting. I have some pix I can send you privately. Lastly you should ignore everything I've said and instead talk to Joe Marko at HMS. He's forgotten more about proper harness installation than the rest of us collectively ever knew. Neil Fort Wayne, IN 96 M3 - Bastard child 03 525iT - Sterling Grey Metallic 05 Mini - Cooper S with LSD
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#9. Re: [E36M3] cutting new door panels - from jakeadavis@comcast.net
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Date: Tue, 09 Jan 2007 15:54:29 +0000 From: jakeadavis@comcast.net Subject: Re: [E36M3] cutting new door panels I'm facing the same quandry. My 95's door panels look like crap. Scared to even get a dealer price on door panels. Been watching ebay for replacements, but am skeptical about paying for another set of panels which may or may not be ready to do same delaminating.. If you're looking for black, one vendor, Vines Automotive, has been listing in the ebay stores really nice looking sets of new panels. $500 for set, but new OEM parts with really cool M colors fabric insert. I would expect these to be much more durable. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BMW-E36-DOOR-PANEL-318-325-323-328-M3-NEW_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33696QQihZ005QQitemZ150070799486QQrdZ1 Has anyone out there dealt with Vines before? Jake Davis 95
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#10. Help Me Track Down a Fuel Odor - from Patrick Kelly
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Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2007 11:14:38 -0500 From: "Patrick Kelly" <pkelly@agincourtcapital.com> Subject: Help Me Track Down a Fuel Odor Getting a little frustrated trying to locate the source of a fuel odor. At first I was convinced it was under the hood, so I removed the fuel rail cover, thinking that a hose was in need of R&R. No dice --dry as a bone and no sign of any fuel residue. Next, I thought it must be the flexible lines or clamps (these had all been replaced some time back) on either side of the fuel filter; popped off the cover.all clear here, too. It's not from the flexi lines on the top of the fuel tank either, and there's no odor in the cabin or in the rear fill/expansion tank area. So now, I'm thinking it's fuel vapor, maybe from the canister under the hood? I don't recall this part ever being discussed here before, but do these need to be replaced at some point? Car has an 11/94 build date, has approximately 120k miles. Thanks in advance. Pat Kelly pkelly@agincourtcapital.com