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#1. [E36M3] Stupid Brake Question - from Dave DeBuhr
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Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2007 18:44:54 -0800 From: "Dave DeBuhr" <debuhr@comcast.net> Subject: [E36M3] Stupid Brake Question I trhe idiot light on the dash with a circle and three broken lines on either side of it a warning for ABS? Worn brake pad indicator? Thanks, Dave "Not a smart enough to read an idiot light" DeBuhr
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Stupid Brake Question - from jeff.conner@yahoo.com
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Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2007 20:02:18 -0800 (PST) From: jeff.conner@yahoo.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Stupid Brake Question Dave, If it's yellow, it's the brake pad wear indicator. At least, that's what my owners manual is telling me. HTH -jeff 98///Sedan ||| 95///trackdog ----- Original Message ---- From: Dave DeBuhr <debuhr@comcast.net> To: E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Tuesday, January 9, 2007 6:45:19 PM Subject: [E36M3] Stupid Brake Question Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2007 18:44:54 -0800 From: "Dave DeBuhr" <debuhr@comcast.net> Subject: [E36M3] Stupid Brake Question I trhe idiot light on the dash with a circle and three broken lines on either side of it a warning for ABS? Worn brake pad indicator? Thanks, Dave "Not a smart enough to read an idiot light" DeBuhr ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm ************************************************* __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com
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#3. Re: Seat Bracket and Harness Install - from kresener@aol.com
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Date: Tue, 09 Jan 2007 23:04:57 -0500 From: kresener@aol.com Subject: Re: Seat Bracket and Harness Install I spoke with somebody at HMS, not sure if it was Joe, they sure were knowledgeable though. They convinced me of the merits of the VAC plates in order to keep the seat as low as possible. One curve ball he did throw at me was the fact that the Recaro Pole Position seats that I seem to fit so well into apparently is not a good choice for someone of my height (6'1) as the holes for the shoulder harnesses are too low and could cause a problem. In fact he said that because of that they don't recommend them and in fact don't even stock them. Can anyone confirm this? I don't have the opportunity to find one nearby to sit in again to check that out. If that's correct I'll have to figure out again which seat fits me as an alternative. Yikes, take off the exhaust and driveshaft? Now you're bumming me out, I hadn't thought it'd get that involved down there for that inboard lapbelt mount. If that boxed crossmember is in the way of my sub mount I suppose I could use a Dremel tool to cut a section out? I'm not clear on what you mean by removing a section of the sub and substituting different snap brackets? Thanks for the advice! Kurt Resener Louisville, KY -----Original Message----- From: neil.maller@gte.net To: e36m3@bmw-m.net Cc: kresener@aol.com Sent: Tue, 9 Jan 2007 10:35 AM Subject: Re: Seat Bracket and Harness Install on 1/9/07 1:25 AM, kresener@aol.com wrote: > HMS Motorsports seems to have the seats, sliders, and mounting brackets that I > need, has anyone used their brackets and sliders? I've been led to believe > that the sliders can be tricky, and that some may be more difficult to make > work correctly than others. Any words of wisdom out there or suggestions on > other sliders and brackets? I have the Recaro Speed seats, which are bottom mounted using the Recaro slider mechanism and TC Kline brackets. This works very well. For side mount racing seats HMS can give you good advice. Those VAC brackets are pricey, but people do like them. You're tall, so lowering the seat would be good. > On the harnesses, I know that the Schroths come with pretty detailed > instructions on where to locate the mounts in the car. Aside from locating > those exact spots relative to the seat and my body in the seat and ensuring > that I don't drill through any wires under the carpet, is there any "gotcha's" > in drilling for the crotch straps and the inside lap belt mounts? I'm > thinking that the front bolt that holds the slider bar that the bottom of the > stock three point belt rides on down behind the door may provide a good > mounting spot for the outer lap belt, has anyone used that? Darn, why haven't > I paid more attention to those mounting spots on other cars when I've been at > the track?! That outboard bolt you refer to is well-positioned. If you're going to use permanently installed lap harness runs you can simply bolt the outer one in place there. Or for snap-in installation buy this very nicely made adapter from Brey-Krause: <http://www.hmsmotorsport.com/store/schroth/competition-accessories/brey-kra use-harness>. The inboard lap harness is a bit more difficult. The easiest is to fit an eyebolt through the floor as near to the transmission tunnel as possible, using a 4x4 inch SCCA pattern steel backing plate. But there are disadvantages to this. On the driver's side there are fuel and brake lines under the car in that area, but you should be OK on the passenger side. However this mounting location does slightly turn the lap harness run. You'll get better geometry by mounting to the side of the transmission tunnel. However for that you really need to take off the exhaust and the driveshaft in order to remove the heatshield and get access for the backing plate. (At some point while these are dropped for another purpose I'll probably redo mine this way, using another set of the B-K adapters.) Lastly there's the sub mounting. On cars with carpet this can be tricky. This is because the carpet in that area has a thick styrofoam backing, so the real floorpan is actually a long way down. There's also a boxed crossmember which can be in the way, depending on where you have the seat positioned. You're quite a bit taller than me, so what works for you may not be the same. My advice is to carefully peel back the carpet from the rear to find good points to drill through. Unfortunately the stock forward seat mounts are usually too far forward for good sub routing. Note too that correct sub angle will be a function of fore/aft seat position, so choose carefully. You'll also need to remove one section of the Schroth subs and substitute different snap brackets to make them short enough for this straight-down mounting. I have some pix I can send you privately. Lastly you should ignore everything I've said and instead talk to Joe Marko at HMS. He's forgotten more about proper harness installation than the rest of us collectively ever knew. Neil Fort Wayne, IN 96 M3 - Bastard child 03 525iT - Sterling Grey Metallic 05 Mini - Cooper S with LSD ________________________________________________________________________ Check out the new AOL. Most comprehensive set of free safety and security tools, free access to millions of high-quality videos from across the web, free AOL Mail and more.
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Stupid Brake Question - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2007 20:06:51 -0800 (PST) From: "Jim Bassett" <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Stupid Brake Question On Tue, January 9, 2007 6:45 pm, Dave DeBuhr said: > I trhe idiot light on the dash with a circle and three broken lines on > either side of it a warning for ABS? Worn brake pad indicator? Brake pads. ABS warning would illuminate the....wait for it...."ABS" light :-) Should I mention this could have been answered by looking in the Owner's Manual? :-) > Dave "Not a smart enough to read an idiot light" DeBuhr No argument here. LOL! Jim Bassett - on to beer #2, can you tell?
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#5. =?UTF-8?Q?FW:_=5Be36m3=5D_=5BE36M3=5D_?= - from Marco
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Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2007 20:10:17 -0800 From: "Marco" <m3driver@iname.com> Subject: =?UTF-8?Q?FW:_=5Be36m3=5D_=5BE36M3=5D_?= =?UTF-8?Q?=E2=80=B0=C3=B1=E2=80=A2=C2=A2=C2=81F_=5Be36m3=5D_=5BE36M3=5D?= =?UTF-8?Q?_Vibration?= Well, I'm going to be of no help :-( If it had always done it I'd say don't worry about it, a slight roughness or shake is common on the M3 engines versus the more run of the mill 3 series. But if it didn't used to do it and now it does then that's a problem. Also as it's a euro engine I'm not as familiar with the intricacies of the engine. You state that with the air conditioning on the vibration stops - what is the idle speed with and without the air conditioning on? My wild guess is it's the pilot or throwout bearing in the clutch. Does the vibration get worse or stop if the transmission is in neutral? Marco -----Original Message----- From: Teddy Lam [mailto:teddy080799@yahoo.com.hk] Sent: Tuesday, January 09, 2007 1:35 AM To: E36M3 Subject: [e36m3] [E36M3] ‰ñ•¢F [e36m3] [E36M3] Vibration Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2007 01:32:04 -0800 (PST) From: Teddy Lam <teddy080799@yahoo.com.hk> Subject: =?iso-2022-jp?B?GyRCMnNKJCEnGyhCIFtlMzZtM10gW0UzNk0zXSBWaWJyYXRpb24=?= Thanks for the reply, Marco. Let me provide more information: Is the vibration present when the clutch is in? What about out? >>Vibration presents with both clutch in and out. Has it always had the vibration or is the vibration new? >>That starts to appear lately (in recent months). Previously, the car >>get a bit vibration when cold but idle perfectly after warm up to the >>working temp. But now, it vibrates both cold and hot. :( Is it a european engine or a US engine? >>European engine. My garage had a check on the engine and fuel supply before. Both seem to be working fine and exhaust content is on par with factory specs now and before..... Guys, any clues on what areas that I should look at?? Teddy ----- 驛ｵ莉ｶ蜴滉ｻｶ ---- 絲r竡U篋削？ Marco Romani <mromani@constinv.com> 謾ｶ莉ｶ莠ｺ Teddy Lam <teddy080799@yahoo.com.hk> ？渇€q・D？€潤H 2007 綛？1 ？？9 ？？？€・H篋？筝v・H 2:20:05 筝脂？鐚？RE: [e36m3] [E36M3] Vibration Teddy, Is the vibration present when the clutch is in? What about out? Has it always had the vibration or is the vibration new? Is it a european engine or a US engine? Marco -----Original Message----- From: Teddy Lam [mailto:teddy080799@yahoo.com.hk] Sent: Monday, January 08, 2007 10:15 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [e36m3] [E36M3] Vibration Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2007 22:12:24 -0800 (PST) From: Teddy Lam <teddy080799@yahoo.com.hk> Subject: [E36M3] Vibration Hello~ I am pretty new to this M3 list and this is my first time to post here. Are you guys all from the US? You guys are so lucky that you can have tracks readily accessible. :) I have a manual 4/96 E36 M3 3.2 for almost 2 years now. It was running in complete original form. Currently I get a little problem on my M3 and I have no luck that the local garage here cannot have it properly fixed after a few tries. We have no clue on it臓KThe car has a little bit of vibration during idle. This vibration can be felt through the steering wheel and through the seats. However, with air-con on, with the engine idle lift a bit the vibration is reduced much臓KApparently this is not a strong vibration but it臓側s a bit annoying to me because I will have air-con off quite often. Also when I engaged in rear gear, a rough engagement and vibration can be felt in the clutch pedal臓KThe garage here helped me to replaced the engine mounts, transmission mounts, transmission oil already. Recently, my car has a gasoline smell problem but we have replaced all of the leaking valves and hoses, with reflash of factory programme already. The gasoline smell problem gone but the vibration is still here臓K Do you guys have any experience or suggestion with this? _______________________________________ YM - ﾃづｷﾂｽuﾂｰTﾂｮﾂｧ ﾂｴNﾂｺﾃ｢ﾂｧAﾂｨSﾂｦﾂｳﾂ､Wﾂｺﾃｴﾂ｡AﾂｧAﾂｪﾂｺﾂｪBﾂ､ﾃ債､ﾂｴﾂ･iﾂ･Hﾂｯdﾂ､UﾂｰTﾂｮﾂｧﾂｵﾂｹﾂｧAﾂ｡AﾂｷﾃｭﾂｧAﾂ､Wﾂｺﾃｴﾂｮﾃ可ｴNﾂｯﾃ ﾂ･ﾃ淞ｧYﾂｬﾃ敖ｨﾃｬﾂ｡Aﾂ･ﾃｴﾂｦﾃｳﾂｻﾂ｡ﾂｸﾃ ﾂｳﾂ｣ﾃ丑ﾂｨﾂｫﾂ･ﾂ｢ﾂ｡C http://messenger.yahoo.com.hk ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm ************************************************* -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.16.7/619 - Release Date: 1/7/2007 6:29 PM _______________________________________ YM - 髮｢邱夊ｨ頑・ 蟆ｱ邂嶺ｽ 豐呈怏荳顔ｶｲ・御ｽ 逧・恚蜿倶ｻ榊庄莉･逡吩ｸ玖ｨ頑・邨ｦ菴 ・檎文菴 荳顔ｶｲ譎ょｰｱ閭ｽ遶句叉逵句芦・御ｻｻ菴戊ｪｪ隧ｱ驛ｽ蜀・ｵｰ螟ｱ縲 http://messenger.yahoo.com.hk ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm ************************************************* -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.16.7/619 - Release Date: 1/7/2007 6:29 PM
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#6. Re: Ebay Door Panels - from Rich Dorffer
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Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2007 23:11:23 -0500 From: "Rich Dorffer" <E36M3Digest@gmail.com> Subject: Re: Ebay Door Panels The ones listed in the auction (which are from a 1993 325is M-Technic or a euro E36) are $247 and $256, respectively, BMW list price. Obviously they are obtainable for less. I have a set of them exactly like these in the auction. Regards, Rich From: jakeadavis@comcast.net > > Anybody asked how much a dealer wants for replacement panels (sitting > down)... > > Jake > -------------- Original message -------------- > From: "Burgess, Kim L" <kim.l.burgess@boeing.com> > > I've not dealt with Vine's but it looks like they have been around awhile > and have a good E-Bay rating of 98.9%. > By the way, those look line LWT door panels. Hurricane cloth and no > speaker cutouts. I suppose they could be from a 318ti (if they built > them)/325 M-Technic(sp).
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Hunting idle - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2007 20:12:33 -0800 (PST) From: "Jim Bassett" <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Hunting idle On Tue, January 9, 2007 6:35 pm, Shelhart2@aol.com said: >(please don't say to change the flywheel :) Flywheel :-) My 325is JP car does this occasionally, too (LTW flywheel with JimC chip & intake & M50 cams). I usually notice it when I come to a stop sign or light. My guess is that the flywheel, being light, causes the RPMs to "bounce" as it settles down - basically it "oscillates" more than the stock flywheel. At least, that what it seems to me. Being the race car, I didn't much care :-) Jim Bassett
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Stupid Brake Question - from jeff.conner@yahoo.com
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Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2007 20:26:00 -0800 (PST) From: jeff.conner@yahoo.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Stupid Brake Question > Jim Bassett - on to beer #2, can you tell? Actually, seeing as I posted the answer 10 minutes prior, that much is obvious. Can you tell that I'm on glass of red wine #3? Which, when a body weight comparison is done, would equal 1.5 Jim Basset beers :-D -jeff 98///Sedan ||| 95///trackdog __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Re: Ebay Door Panels - from Reid Conti
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Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2007 20:56:10 -0800 From: "Reid Conti" <reid@conti.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Ebay Door Panels Dealer once told me $950 or so per side for my 95's non-lux doors. > > Anybody asked how much a dealer wants for replacement panels (sitting > > down)...
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#10. Re: Seat Bracket and Harness Install - from Neil Maller
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Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2007 00:03:24 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Seat Bracket and Harness Install on 1/9/07 11:04 PM, kresener@aol.com at kresener@aol.com wrote: > Yikes, take off the exhaust and driveshaft? Now you're bumming me out, I > hadn't thought it'd get that involved down there for that inboard lapbelt > mount. Not that hard, just somewhat time consuming. Did you buy that lift yet? <g> > If that boxed crossmember is in the way of my sub mount I suppose I could use > a Dremel tool to cut a section out? Umm no: structural... > I'm not clear on what you mean by removing a section of the sub and > substituting different snap brackets? Have a look at the Profi-III-6 subs in this enlarged image: <http://www.hmsmotorsport.com/imgView.php?img=ximg/1619/Profi_III_6.jpg> With a low seat you'll likely find that the total length of the Schroth sub straps is too long for a straight down mounting, even with both sets of length adjusters (mid-point and at the snap mount) at their shortest settings. If you remove the snap mounts from the free ends, undo the mid-point adjuster and discard the lower webbing run, then thread the original snap fittings onto the upper webbing, you'll get short subs. Maybe too short? I don't know. (My own subs are mounted in a different way that isn't easy for you to replicate.) I'm not sure why Schroth uses this overly complicated sub strap configuration (just because they're German?) with its two separate length adjusters per strap. Other makes typically use a single run of webbing with the length adjustment at the snap fitting only. That way you get infinitely variable adjustment with no mid-point hardware to hang up in the seat's sub slot. What's really needed is something like this B-K part for Boxsters: <http://www.hmsmotorsport.com/imgView.php?img=ximg/2246/r9030.jpg>, which spans the seat mounts under the seat and provides an above the floor sub mounting point. (I have an arrangement something like this, but custom fabricated.) Neil Fort Wayne, IN 96 M3 - Bastard child 03 525iT - Sterling Grey Metallic 05 Mini - Cooper S with LSD