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#1. Re: [E36M3] Service recommendations in or near Dayton, OH? - from Brian Ruiz
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Date: Sun, 14 Jan 2007 21:11:21 -0800 From: "Brian Ruiz" <eurowerke@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Service recommendations in or near Dayton, OH? Not at all familiar with the area, and I don't know how much this really means to you or even in general, but Foreign Car Service is a member of the International Association of Independent BMW Service Professionals. In addition, so is Koala Motorsport, so hopefully it means something good. :) Brian On 1/14/07, Steve W. Brewer <steve@take5.org> wrote: > > Date: Sun, 14 Jan 2007 22:22:02 -0500 > From: "Steve W. Brewer" <steve@take5.org> > Subject: RE: [E36M3] Service recommendations in or near Dayton, OH? > > > I would highly recommend towing it to The BMW Store in Cincinnati > > Thanks; thought about them, but doesn't work. I have towing coverage to > the > "nearest qualified facility + 10 miles," which pretty much limits me to > the > Dayton area, unless I want to pay for ~50 miles of towing out of pocket. > Can't imagine that would be cheap (or worth it), but I'm open to > dissenting > opinions. :-) > > Steve W. Brewer > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > >
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#2. REMOVE - from Torrell Torres
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Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2007 02:50:41 -0800 From: "Torrell Torres" <torrell77@hotmail.com> Subject: REMOVE <html><div style='background-color:'><DIV class=RTE> <P><BR><BR></P></DIV> <DIV></DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #a0c6e5 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 11px; FONT-FAMILY: tahoma,sans-serif"> <HR color=#a0c6e5 SIZE=1> <DIV></DIV>From: <I>E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net></I><BR>Reply-To: <I>E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net></I><BR>To: <I>E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net></I><BR>Subject: <I>[E36M3] E36M3 #5101</I><BR>Date: <I>Sun, 14 Jan 2007 21:35:00 -0600</I><BR>>**************************************************************<BR>>E36M3 List - Forum for Discussion of E36M3 Series Automobiles<BR>>**************************************************************<BR>>BMWMPower on the Web: http://www.bmw-m.net<BR>>**************************************************************<BR>><BR>>This digest contains the following messages:<BR>><BR>> 1. Re: ASC+T throttle body removal><BR>> by: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net><BR>> 2. Re: max velocity splitters<BR>> by: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net><BR>> 3. Re: [E36M3] Re: max velocity splitters<BR>> by: Carlos Lopez <clopez98m3@gmail.com><BR>> 4. Re: [E36M3] Re: ASC+T throttle body removal><BR>> by: marty <mfraiser@earthlink.net><BR>> 5. Re: [E36M3] Re: ASC+T throttle body removal><BR>> by: Carlos Lopez <clopez98m3@gmail.com><BR>> 6. Re: [E36M3] Re: ASC+T throttle body removal><BR>> by: marty <mfraiser@earthlink.net><BR>> 7. Re: [E36M3] Re: ASC+T throttle body removal><BR>> by: <Mdriver13@aol.com><BR>> 8. Service recommendations in or near Dayton, OH?<BR>> by: Steve W. Brewer <steve@take5.org><BR>> 9. Re: [E36M3] Service recommendations in or near Dayton, OH?<BR>> by: <Mdriver13@aol.com><BR>> 10. RE: [E36M3] Service recommendations in or near Dayton, OH?<BR>> by: Steve W. Brewer <steve@take5.org><BR>><BR>>-------------------- 1 --------------------<BR>>Date: Sun, 14 Jan 2007 10:49:27 -0500<BR>>From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net><BR>>Subject: Re: ASC+T throttle body removal><BR>><BR>>on 1/14/07 10:35 AM, marty <mfraiser@earthlink.net> wrote:<BR>><BR>> > If there is/was a braking portion of ASC+T - I don't remember exactly which<BR>> > system had which component although I'm pretty sure the E36 had both a<BR>> > throttle and braking component. If the braking portion of traction control is<BR>> > still active that's probably a useful thing to have on the street, or maybe<BR>> > even track sometimes?<BR>><BR>>Yes there is a braking function in the ASC+T. However it only operates at<BR>>speeds of about 50 kph/30 mph and below, so won't come into action at the<BR>>track in any case.<BR>><BR>> > Does anyone know whether the ASC+T is completely disabled now or does the<BR>> > braking portion of it still function?<BR>><BR>>That I don't know.<BR>><BR>>Neil<BR>>Fort Wayne, IN<BR>>96 M3 - Bastard child<BR>>03 525iT - Sterling Grey Metallic<BR>>05 Mini - Cooper S with LSD<BR>><BR>><BR>><BR>><BR>><BR>>-------------------- 2 --------------------<BR>>Date: Sun, 14 Jan 2007 10:51:30 -0500<BR>>From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net><BR>>Subject: Re: max velocity splitters<BR>><BR>>on 1/14/07 10:35 AM, "Gary" <probikeguy@probikeusa.com> wrote:<BR>><BR>> > I had them on my car they work great. But you really have to be careful with<BR>> > them I ripped one set off on a low curb by accident. the second set I ran<BR>> > for two years and hit speed bumps rubbed them going on and off the trailer<BR>> > and they never broke.<BR>><BR>>So you're not still using the Max Velocity splitter - how come? And what do<BR>>you have instead? Enquiring minds...<BR>><BR>>Neil<BR>>Fort Wayne, IN<BR>>96 M3 - Bastard child<BR>>03 525iT - Sterling Grey Metallic<BR>>05 Mini - Cooper S with LSD<BR>><BR>><BR>><BR>><BR>><BR>>-------------------- 3 --------------------<BR>>Date: Sun, 14 Jan 2007 12:54:41 -0500<BR>>From: "Carlos Lopez" <clopez98m3@gmail.com><BR>>Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: max velocity splitters<BR>><BR>>On 1/14/07, Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> wrote:<BR>> ><BR>> > >So you're not still using the Max Velocity splitter - how come? And what<BR>> > do<BR>> > >you have instead? Enquiring minds...<BR>><BR>><BR>>Here's the thing. They have several splitters available. The ones the<BR>>original poster<BR>>asked about are more of a looks thing. They mount only at the sides of the<BR>>bumper cover<BR>>and look like the LTW attachments but without the splitter portion, I<BR>>wouldn't exactly call these splitters maybe<BR>>chin extensions (?) :-P. Again it's a looks thing. I suspect perhaps<BR>>that's what Gary had as well, these you could use on the street.<BR>>Now they also have track splitters and that's probably what you're<BR>>interested in Neil. Two or three versions actually,<BR>>quite popular with the I-Prepared crowd as it offers a low cost alternative<BR>>and it is a functional splitter. So far in the 6 or so events I've teched<BR>>at they have not had any problems and I see these cars over and over all<BR>>over the country. So I have one myself ready<BR>>to go on for next year's events. :-) Jack also ran one in the C-Mod car<BR>>since Larry had sort of destroyed the LTW one<BR>>which has nothing about it that is lightweight. The MaxV ones are indeed<BR>>light. Lookswise they do look like a somewhat homemade<BR>>vaccuum formed plastic part but if that doesn't bother you then it's no big<BR>>deal. Homemade but by someone who knows<BR>>what they're doing IMO.<BR>><BR>>Carlos<BR>>98 M3 w/all sorts of crap waiting to go on :-)<BR>><BR>><BR>><BR>>-------------------- 4 --------------------<BR>>Date: Sun, 14 Jan 2007 13:41:33 -0500<BR>>From: marty <mfraiser@earthlink.net><BR>>Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: ASC+T throttle body removal><BR>><BR>>thanks Neil, good info for a fellow '96 bastard child owner :)<BR>><BR>>I think the braking portion _may_ still be functional since ACS+T is<BR>>tied into the ABS system somehow. e.g. when I didn't reconnect power to<BR>>the ASC throttle actuator motor I got an ABS fault. Reconnecting it<BR>>cleared the fault (on it's own - didn't have to clear the ABS code).<BR>><BR>>I haven't tried it yet but it's possible I'd throw an ABS fault if I<BR>>pulled the ASC+T fuse and/or relay to fully disable it.<BR>><BR>>I suppose I'm good to go since the braking doesn't get applied over 50 mph.<BR>><BR>>marty<BR>><BR>>96 M3 - another bastard child<BR>>95 540i<BR>><BR>>Neil Maller wrote:<BR>> >> If there is/was a braking portion of ASC+T - I don't remember exactly which<BR>> >> system had which component although I'm pretty sure the E36 had both a<BR>> >> throttle and braking component. If the braking portion of traction control is<BR>> >> still active that's probably a useful thing to have on the street, or maybe<BR>> >> even track sometimes?<BR>> >><BR>> ><BR>> > Yes there is a braking function in the ASC+T. However it only operates at<BR>> > speeds of about 50 kph/30 mph and below, so won't come into action at the<BR>> > track in any case.<BR>> ><BR>> ><BR>> >> Does anyone know whether the ASC+T is completely disabled now or does the<BR>> >> braking portion of it still function?<BR>> >><BR>> ><BR>> > That I don't know.<BR>> ><BR>> > Neil<BR>> > Fort Wayne, IN<BR>> > 96 M3 - Bastard child<BR>> > 03 525iT - Sterling Grey Metallic<BR>> > 05 Mini - Cooper S with LSD<BR>> ><BR>> ><BR>> ><BR>> ><BR>> > *************************************************<BR>> > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors:<BR>> ><BR>> > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com<BR>> > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com<BR>> > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com<BR>> > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com<BR>> > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com<BR>> > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com<BR>> ><BR>> > DIGEST INFORMATION:<BR>> > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm<BR>> > *************************************************<BR>> ><BR>> ><BR>> ><BR>> ><BR>><BR>><BR>><BR>><BR>>-------------------- 5 --------------------<BR>>Date: Sun, 14 Jan 2007 15:06:34 -0500<BR>>From: "Carlos Lopez" <clopez98m3@gmail.com><BR>>Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: ASC+T throttle body removal><BR>><BR>> 1/14/07, marty <mfraiser@earthlink.net> wrote:<BR>> ><BR>> > >I think the braking portion _may_ still be functional since ACS+T is<BR>> > >tied into the ABS system somehow. e.g. when I didn't reconnect power to<BR>> > >the ASC throttle actuator motor I got an ABS fault. Reconnecting it<BR>> > >cleared the fault (on it's own - didn't have to clear the ABS code).<BR>><BR>><BR>>When you say disconnect power what exactly do you mean?<BR>>Pulling the connector?<BR>><BR>>Reason I ask is I removed the ASC throttle body from my car and<BR>>disconnecting<BR>>it did not trigger any ABS faults. I'm one who thinks that ASC+T is useless<BR>>unless<BR>>you're driving the car through winter which I am not so I ditched it.<BR>>Besides I already<BR>>embarrassed myself by going through an entire race school weekend with the<BR>>thing on the whole<BR>>time and the engine cutting out on me when I was trying to pass people<BR>>coming out of corners.<BR>>I thought I was having fuel pickup issues. ;-) Now that it's gone I can<BR>>have the sexy Motorsport<BR>>strut brace as well. :-)<BR>><BR>>Carlos<BR>>98 M3<BR>><BR>><BR>><BR>>-------------------- 6 --------------------<BR>>Date: Sun, 14 Jan 2007 16:08:01 -0500<BR>>From: marty <mfraiser@earthlink.net><BR>>Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: ASC+T throttle body removal><BR>><BR>>yes, exactly. I had reconnected neither the ASC throttle position<BR>>sensor nor power to the ASC throttle actuator motor when I started it up<BR>>and got both ASC and ABS lights. I connected the dangling throttle<BR>>position sensor back into the harness and still had both lights. I then<BR>>connected the actuator motor power (green/black and brown/black with<BR>>yellow bands) and the ABS light went out.<BR>><BR>>I suppose it could have been a delayed reaction. I haven't tried<BR>>disconnecting only the motor now to see if I get an ABS light. Either<BR>>way, I did have an ABS light so mine seems slightly different than yours<BR>>- could be the bastard child behaviour coming out :)<BR>><BR>>I agree, the ASC+T is a PITA and I don't drive mine in the winter<BR>>either. I've too many times forgotten to turn the thing off for<BR>>autocrosses or track events. It took me a few times to realise I was<BR>>having fuel starvation issues instead of the ASC+T kicking in. The only<BR>>reason I can think of to have it is when I let one of my brothers drive<BR>>the car so they don't scare the crap out of me as much.<BR>><BR>>marty<BR>>96 M3<BR>>95 540i<BR>><BR>>Carlos Lopez wrote:<BR>> >>> I think the braking portion _may_ still be functional since ACS+T is<BR>> >>> tied into the ABS system somehow. e.g. when I didn't reconnect power to<BR>> >>> the ASC throttle actuator motor I got an ABS fault. Reconnecting it<BR>> >>> cleared the fault (on it's own - didn't have to clear the ABS code).<BR>> >>><BR>> > When you say disconnect power what exactly do you mean?<BR>> > Pulling the connector?<BR>> ><BR>> > Reason I ask is I removed the ASC throttle body from my car and<BR>> > disconnecting<BR>> > it did not trigger any ABS faults. I'm one who thinks that ASC+T is useless<BR>> > unless<BR>> > you're driving the car through winter which I am not so I ditched it.<BR>> > Besides I already<BR>> > embarrassed myself by going through an entire race school weekend with the<BR>> > thing on the whole<BR>> > time and the engine cutting out on me when I was trying to pass people<BR>> > coming out of corners.<BR>> > I thought I was having fuel pickup issues. ;-) Now that it's gone I can<BR>> > have the sexy Motorsport<BR>> > strut brace as well. :-)<BR>> ><BR>> > Carlos<BR>> > 98 M3<BR>> ><BR>> ><BR>><BR>><BR>><BR>><BR>>-------------------- 7 --------------------<BR>>Date: Sun, 14 Jan 2007 16:38:46 EST<BR>>From: Mdriver13@aol.com<BR>>Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: ASC+T throttle body removal><BR>><BR>>In a message dated 1/14/2007 3:15:47 PM Eastern Standard Time,<BR>>clopez98m3@gmail.com writes:<BR>>Besides I already<BR>>embarrassed myself by going through an entire race school weekend with the<BR>>thing on the whole<BR>>time and the engine cutting out on me when I was trying to pass people<BR>>coming out of corners.<BR>><BR>>Hey, Carlos<BR>><BR>>Don't feel bad...been there, done that!<BR>><BR>>Couple of years ago I posted an index card on the dash that said, "turn off<BR>>the ASC -- Dummy!" ;-))<BR>><BR>>regards,<BR>><BR>>Bob Gill<BR>>97 ///M3 coupe<BR>>Philly Region SCCA<BR>>2005 / 2006 Philly Region BSP Champion<BR>>Sponsored by Wheel Collision Center & Rogue Engineering<BR>><BR>><BR>><BR>>-------------------- 8 --------------------<BR>>Date: Sun, 14 Jan 2007 20:16:12 -0500<BR>>From: "Steve W. Brewer" <steve@take5.org><BR>>Subject: Service recommendations in or near Dayton, OH?<BR>><BR>>I was in Detroit for the auto show, and heading back home (Louisville, KY),<BR>>I broke down a little north of Dayton, OH. First the ABS warning came on,<BR>>then the airbag, then I noticed all the lights were going dim ... No tools<BR>>with me beyond the standard trunk kit, but I was able to reach the drive<BR>>belt with the lug-bolt wrench, and I can press it down without much effort,<BR>>so I think it's lost tension. So, could be the belt itself or anything on<BR>>it (alternator, water pump, tensioner, power steering), thereby preventing<BR>>the alternator from working. Guess the battery is a possibility also, but<BR>>that's not my prime suspect (the alternator should have kept the car going<BR>>even with a dead battery). Fortunately, I was able to limp to a gas<BR>>station, and there are hotels nearby, which is where my wife and I are now.<BR>>Plan is to have it towed somewhere in the morning.<BR>><BR>>Any recommendations for service nearby? Looks like Frank Z Imports, Voss<BR>>Village BMW, and Foreign Car Service are possibilities. Any experience with<BR>>those or others?<BR>><BR>>Thanks!<BR>>Steve W. Brewer<BR>><BR>><BR>><BR>><BR>>-------------------- 9 --------------------<BR>>Date: Sun, 14 Jan 2007 21:57:33 EST<BR>>From: Mdriver13@aol.com<BR>>Subject: Re: [E36M3] Service recommendations in or near Dayton, OH?<BR>><BR>>In a message dated 1/14/2007 8:25:25 PM Eastern Standard Time,<BR>>steve@take5.org writes:<BR>>Any recommendations for service nearby? Looks like Frank Z Imports, Voss<BR>>Village BMW, and Foreign Car Service are possibilities. Any experience with<BR>>those or others?<BR>>Steve,<BR>><BR>>I grew up in Cincinnati, since I don't know the others, I would highly<BR>>recommend towing it to The BMW Store in Cincinnati (off of I-71 and Steward Rd.).<BR>>They are top-notch!<BR>><BR>>good luck,<BR>><BR>>Bob Gill<BR>>97 ///M3 coupe<BR>>Philly Region SCCA<BR>>2005 / 2006 Philly Region BSP Champion<BR>>Sponsored by Wheel Collision Center & Rogue Engineering<BR>><BR>><BR>><BR>>-------------------- 10 --------------------<BR>>Date: Sun, 14 Jan 2007 22:22:02 -0500<BR>>From: "Steve W. Brewer" <steve@take5.org><BR>>Subject: RE: [E36M3] Service recommendations in or near Dayton, OH?<BR>><BR>> > I would highly recommend towing it to The BMW Store in Cincinnati<BR>><BR>>Thanks; thought about them, but doesn't work. I have towing coverage to the<BR>>"nearest qualified facility + 10 miles," which pretty much limits me to the<BR>>Dayton area, unless I want to pay for ~50 miles of towing out of pocket.<BR>>Can't imagine that would be cheap (or worth it), but I'm open to dissenting<BR>>opinions. :-)<BR>><BR>>Steve W. Brewer<BR>><BR>><BR>><BR>><BR>>*************************************************<BR>>Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors:<BR>><BR>>Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com<BR>>Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com<BR>>Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com<BR>>Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com<BR>>Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com<BR>>Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com<BR>><BR>>DIGEST INFORMATION:<BR>>http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm<BR>>*************************************************<BR>><BR></FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></div><br clear=all><hr> <a href="http://g.msn.com/8HMBENUS/2743??PS=47575" target="_top">Communicate instantly! Use your Hotmail address to sign into Windows Live Messenger now. </a> </html>
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#3. Ferrari - from jbjerke@charter.net
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Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2007 14:03:05 -0800 From: <jbjerke@charter.net> Subject: Ferrari This is one of the most incredible things I have ever seen: http://www.jokerracewear.com/web/Ferrari.wmv
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#4. Re: [E36M3] ASC+T throttle body removal - from Taner Halicioglu
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Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2007 14:43:49 -0800 From: Taner Halicioglu <taner@e36m3.org> Subject: Re: [E36M3] ASC+T throttle body removal On Sun, Jan 14, 2007 at 09:25:02AM -0600, marty <mfraiser@earthlink.net> wrote: > Does anyone know whether the ASC+T is completely disabled now or does > the braking portion of it still function? I pulled my ASC+T TB on my '97 a while ago, and I think my ASC bulb burned out on its own, since it went out several months later. Anyway, I have never noticed ANY sort of braking happening - even at low speeds - so I am inclined to say it is 100% disabled :-) -Taner -- Taner Halicioglu <taner@e36m3.org> 1997 Cosmos Black BMW M3/4 2000 Santorin Blue Audi S4 2006 Nighthawk Black Acura TL A-Spec
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#5. Re: ASC+T throttle body removal - from James Clay
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Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2007 21:37:44 -0500 From: "James Clay" <james@bimmerworld.com> Subject: Re: ASC+T throttle body removal In a stock system, disconnecting the actuator from the ASC throttle body will turn on the ASC light – just like you pressed the button. Unplugging the actuator from the car chassis harness will light the ABS and ASC lights and neither system will function. Plug the actuator back in and it should be OK – you may need to disconnect power and reconnect to get it to work correctly again. Removal of the ASC light is just ¼ turn of the bulb holder away… James Clay http://www.bimmerworld.com http://www.bimmerworldracing.com http://www.powerflexusa.com Race Proven BMW Performance 877.639.9648
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#6. Mystery electrical problem (was Re: Service recommendations in or near Dayton, OH?) - from Steve W. Brewer
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Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2007 23:05:53 -0500 From: "Steve W. Brewer" <steve@take5.org> Subject: Mystery electrical problem (was Re: Service recommendations in or near Dayton, OH?) > Foreign Car Service should have the parts for your car in stock > and hopefully can get you going Monday. > I was the Service Manager there for 15 years. > Good Luck! > George Thielen Thanks, George and the others who responded! I went to FCS this morning, and Mike checked out the charging system, fully charged the battery, and got us on our way, and we made it the rest of the way home safely. Unfortunately, he couldn't find anything wrong with the car, so what exactly the problem was remains a mystery. The alternator passed inspection (it's the 80 A alternator, and it tested 14.1 V at 77 A max), the battery passed inspection (although he did comment that it took 60 A to charge it, but after it was charged, it passed a load test), and he cleaned the battery and alternator terminals (they didn't look corroded, but he cleaned them anyway). My guess is it might be something heat related that didn't show up while cold, or it could be something intermittent in the electrical system somewhere, or it might be the battery. After driving about 160 miles today, I hit the brakes (possibly a coincidence) and the battery light flickered dimly for a couple of seconds, but that was it. At that point, I was 12 miles from home, and I didn't notice anything else out of the ordinary the rest of the trip. Any ideas? Steve W. Brewer steve@take5.org Date: Sun, 14 Jan 2007 20:16:12 -0500 From: "Steve W. Brewer" <steve@take5.org> Subject: Service recommendations in or near Dayton, OH? I was in Detroit for the auto show, and heading back home (Louisville, KY), I broke down a little north of Dayton, OH. First the ABS warning came on, then the airbag, then I noticed all the lights were going dim ... No tools with me beyond the standard trunk kit, but I was able to reach the drive belt with the lug-bolt wrench, and I can press it down without much effort, so I think it's lost tension. So, could be the belt itself or anything on it (alternator, water pump, tensioner, power steering), thereby preventing the alternator from working. Guess the battery is a possibility also, but that's not my prime suspect (the alternator should have kept the car going even with a dead battery). Fortunately, I was able to limp to a gas station, and there are hotels nearby, which is where my wife and I are now. Plan is to have it towed somewhere in the morning. Any recommendations for service nearby? Looks like Frank Z Imports, Voss Village BMW, and Foreign Car Service are possibilities. Any experience with those or others? Thanks! Steve W. Brewer
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#7. Any Siebkins Fans? - from jbjerke@charter.net
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Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2007 20:43:12 -0800 From: <jbjerke@charter.net> Subject: Any Siebkins Fans? To all those Road America junkies... Go to: www.racingpilot.com Scroll down to: Siebkens - The Last Open Bar Jeff Bjerke 98 M3 Coupe 99 328i Sedan (for a few more days) 05 TL (6-speed)
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Mystery electrical problem - from LoweSeaton@aol.com
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Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2007 02:26:43 EST From: LoweSeaton@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Mystery electrical problem I had similar "mystery" electrical problems for over 3 years. I only drove my M3 on weekends for much of this time. It would often sit for 2 or even 3 weeks between use. I would sometimes have to jump start the car if it sat for 3 weeks. Then it started to get worse. Eventually, I would have to jump start after just 4-5 days of non-use. I suspected I had a short that was draining the battery. Eventually, it got so bad, the car would be dead after just sitting for 2 hours. I also thought maybe the battery was defunct. I'm sure letting it get fully discharged many times didn't help so I replaced it. Still would be dead after just a few hours sitting. I demanded a second battery even though the new replacement battery tested fine. It got to the point where I would remove the battery cable every time I parked the car. Backing up a little. I had inquired with my local independent BMW mechanic how much it would cost to diagnosis my current leak. He said it depended on how long it took. He said it could take anywhere from 30 minutes to 8+ hours, in other words - it could be over $1,000. I figured for $1,000, I'd try to find the leak myself. I bought a clamp multimeter and started experimenting by removing one fuse at a time to isolate the drain. I never could find anything more than a few milliamps, barely detectable - not enough to drain a battery in 3 weeks. [OT - I discovered that the current drain varies dramatically. When you first turn off the engine, there is a measurable current. I suppose it is the computer diagnostics saving information or something. The actual current reading varied every time. And if you disconnected the battery and put the multimeter inline, that gave completely different readings. Overall, very frustrating and inconclusive. No wonder my mechanic quoted $1,000. It is not easy to track down an unknown current leak.] I was about to give up and pay the mechanic for diagnosis, however, my problem got much worse and I decided I had more than a small current leak. I started driving my M3 every day and it got so it would be dead after just sitting 2 hours. Or all of the dash lights would come on while driving as you have experienced. Bottom line? The most obvious cause was the alternator not charging the battery. I had the alternator tested 3 or more times by different places - the alternator always passed. My mechanic suspected the ground strap was not making good contact. He said the E36 just has one ground strap and it frequently breaks or comes lose. We added a second much heavier ground strap. Still had a dead battery. Ultimately, it was the alternator or specifically, a bad voltage diode in the alternator. On the 4th alternator test, it finally tested flaky. The alternator was only putting out 8 volts, not 14+ volts like it should. I replaced the alternator and it ran perfect after that. I could have let the car sit for months and not have a dead battery. The alternator had an inconsistent sporadic fault for who knows how long - at least 3 years. Steve - in your case - don't assume the alternator is good. Check to make sure your ground strap is good but then test and re-test and test again your alternator. Good luck! Lowell Seaton '95 M3 ------------------------------------ In a message dated 1/15/07 10:16:12 PM Central Standard Time, steve@take5.org writes: Unfortunately, he couldn't find anything wrong with the car, so what exactly the problem was remains a mystery. The alternator passed inspection (it's the 80 A alternator, and it tested 14.1 V at 77 A max), the battery passed inspection (although he did comment that it took 60 A to charge it, but after it was charged, it passed a load test), and he cleaned the battery and alternator terminals (they didn't look corroded, but he cleaned them anyway). My guess is it might be something heat related that didn't show up while cold, or it could be something intermittent in the electrical system somewhere, or it might be the battery.
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#9. New RTAB part number? - from Rex Tener
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Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2007 10:50:49 -0800 From: Rex Tener <rex_tener@yahoo.com> Subject: New RTAB part number? My BMW parts source says there is a new BMW part and/or part number for the RTAB bushing. Old part number 33-32-2-228-153 New part number 33-32-6-770-817 Anyone seen this new RTAB yet? Rex Tener rex_tener@yahoo.com
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Mystery electrical problem (was Re: Service - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2007 12:15:44 -0800 (PST) From: "Jim Bassett" <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Mystery electrical problem (was Re: Service recommendations in or near Dayton, OH?) On Mon, January 15, 2007 8:14 pm, Steve W. Brewer said: > Unfortunately, he couldn't find anything wrong with the car, so what > exactly > the problem was remains a mystery. The alternator passed inspection (it's > the 80 A alternator, and it tested 14.1 V at 77 A max), the battery passed > inspection (although he did comment that it took 60 A to charge it, but > after it was charged, it passed a load test), [snip] > Date: Sun, 14 Jan 2007 20:16:12 -0500 > From: "Steve W. Brewer" <steve@take5.org> > Subject: Service recommendations in or near Dayton, OH? > > but I was able to reach the drive > belt with the lug-bolt wrench, and I can press it down without much > effort, > so I think it's lost tension. I've missed most of this thread (I'm nowhere near Ohio :-)), but have you replaced the belt tensioners? This would be the first thing I would do, in order to be sure that the alternator is being run properly and charging the battery. My 2 cents, Jim Bassett