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#1. New RTAB part number? - from Rich Dorffer
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Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2007 16:01:06 -0500 From: "Rich Dorffer" <E36M3Digest@gmail.com> Subject: New RTAB part number? > > From: Rex Tener rex_tener@yahoo.com > > My BMW parts source says there is a new BMW part and/or part number > for the RTAB bushing. > > Old part number 33-32-2-228-153 > > New part number 33-32-6-770-817 > > Anyone seen this new RTAB yet? I think you are understanding this incorrectly, this is just a part number update, this doesn't mean there was any change in the part itself. BMW is constantly updating part numbers, superseding old part numbers. For instance, even the item you noted above had a part number between your old part number and the new one you provided which was 33-32-6-757-885. Regards, Rich
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#2. Modded S50 for sale in Atlanta - 68K miles - - from Jonathan Sargent
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Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2007 16:13:02 -0500 From: Jonathan Sargent <jonathan@rgbtvinc.com> Subject: Modded S50 for sale in Atlanta - 68K miles - S50 3.0L M3 Engine for sale in Atlanta, GA. $5K plus shipping OBO. Meticulously maintained by Payet Motorsports in Duluth, GA All records, receipts and invoices available upon request. 68XXX miles, full synthetic since new. Oil & Filter changed every 3,000 Miles (Mobil 1 Synthetic) S50 M3 3.0l Schrick Cams Stickley ( CSS Motorsports ) Custom Tuned Chip Updated Hardened Valve Retainers (S52) Valve Keepers (S52) 24lb Injectors Euro HFM Upper Tensioner Lower Tensioner Upper Chain Guides Lower Chain Guides Rear Main Seal Oil Pan Gasket Valve Cover Gasket Safety Wired Oil Pump Nut Aluminum Water Pump Housing 88* Thermostat Water Pump Underdrive Pulleys Pricing: Updated 95 3.0 M3 Engine with 68k Miles: $3500 Base Updates - Retainers/Keepers/Oil Pump Nut/Guides, etc: $1000 Schrick Cams: $1100 24lb Injectors: $250 Software: $250 Euro HFM: $360 HFM Adapter: $70 E36 Power Pulleys: $250 _______________________ Total Invested: $6,780 + Labor ( don't want to think about it ) All For $5,000 plus shipping Email: jonathan@rgbtvinc.com for more info or to arrange shipping.
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#3. Re: [E36M3] New RTAB part number? - from Rex Tener
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Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2007 13:16:00 -0800 From: Rex Tener <rex_tener@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] New RTAB part number? At 01:04 PM 1/16/2007, Rich Dorffer wrote: > > My BMW parts source says there is a new BMW part and/or part number > > for the RTAB bushing. >I think you are understanding this incorrectly, this is just a part number >update, this doesn't mean there was any change in the part itself. Yeah, my question wording sucked. I meant to ask is this just a new part number or is it really a new part with a new part number. Thanks, Rex
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#4. [M3] WTB: 95 A/C compressor - from Guillermo Molina
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Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2007 16:18:53 -0500 From: "Guillermo Molina" <drwillb@msn.com> Subject: [M3] WTB: 95 A/C compressor Subject line says it all. Not sure if the same part was used across the e36 line or not but tell me what you've got. Must be a few track cars out there with A/C delete. TIA, Bill Molina nice and cool in the northeast right now _________________________________________________________________ Get FREE Web site and company branded e-mail from Microsoft Office Live http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/mcrssaub0050001411mrt/direct/01/
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#5. Re: Mystery electrical problem - from Neil Maller
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Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2007 16:00:43 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Mystery electrical problem on 1/16/07 3:34 PM, LoweSeaton@aol.com wrote: > I had similar "mystery" electrical problems for over 3 years. I has the dreaded mystery electrical drain for some months too. Finally tracked it down to a defective trunk light switch causing "refrigerator door syndrome" - does that little light inside really go out? Well in my car's case the answer was no. Good thing I have fold-down rear seats which made it possible to check. Neil Fort Wayne, IN 96 M3 - Bastard child 03 525iT - Sterling Grey Metallic 05 Mini - Cooper S with LSD
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Mystery electrical problem - from Mark Duckworth
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Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2007 19:46:12 -0500 From: Mark Duckworth <mdlkml@atari-source.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Mystery electrical problem On Tue, 2007-01-16 at 01:34 -0600, LoweSeaton@aol.com wrote: > Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2007 02:26:43 EST > From: LoweSeaton@aol.com > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Mystery electrical problem > > > I had similar "mystery" electrical problems for over 3 years. I only drove > my M3 on weekends for much of this time. It would often sit for 2 or even 3 > weeks between use. I would sometimes have to jump start the car if it sat > for 3 weeks. Then it started to get worse. Eventually, I would have to jump > start after just 4-5 days of non-use. I suspected I had a short that was > draining the battery. Eventually, it got so bad, the car would be dead after > just sitting for 2 hours. I also thought maybe the battery was defunct. I'm > sure letting it get fully discharged many times didn't help so I replaced it. > Still would be dead after just a few hours sitting. I demanded a second > battery even though the new replacement battery tested fine. It got to the > point where I would remove the battery cable every time I parked the car. > > Backing up a little. I had inquired with my local independent BMW mechanic > how much it would cost to diagnosis my current leak. He said it depended on > how long it took. He said it could take anywhere from 30 minutes to 8+ > hours, in other words - it could be over $1,000. I figured for $1,000, I'd try to > find the leak myself. I bought a clamp multimeter and started experimenting > by removing one fuse at a time to isolate the drain. I never could find > anything more than a few milliamps, barely detectable - not enough to drain a > battery in 3 weeks. [OT - I discovered that the current drain varies > dramatically. When you first turn off the engine, there is a measurable current. I > suppose it is the computer diagnostics saving information or something. The > actual current reading varied every time. And if you disconnected the battery > and put the multimeter inline, that gave completely different readings. > Overall, very frustrating and inconclusive. No wonder my mechanic quoted > $1,000. It is not easy to track down an unknown current leak.] > > I was about to give up and pay the mechanic for diagnosis, however, my > problem got much worse and I decided I had more than a small current leak. I > started driving my M3 every day and it got so it would be dead after just sitting > 2 hours. Or all of the dash lights would come on while driving as you have > experienced. > > Bottom line? The most obvious cause was the alternator not charging the > battery. I had the alternator tested 3 or more times by different places - the > alternator always passed. My mechanic suspected the ground strap was not > making good contact. He said the E36 just has one ground strap and it > frequently breaks or comes lose. We added a second much heavier ground strap. Still > had a dead battery. > > Ultimately, it was the alternator or specifically, a bad voltage diode in > the alternator. On the 4th alternator test, it finally tested flaky. The > alternator was only putting out 8 volts, not 14+ volts like it should. I > replaced the alternator and it ran perfect after that. I could have let the car sit > for months and not have a dead battery. The alternator had an inconsistent > sporadic fault for who knows how long - at least 3 years. > > Steve - in your case - don't assume the alternator is good. Check to make > sure your ground strap is good but then test and re-test and test again your > alternator. Good luck! > Further along on this topic, my car was absolutely fine and one day I rolled up to 711. Got back into the car and the car would only crank one revolution. I got a truck to try to jumpstart me. Still was having major issues. Finally I decided to push start it. It started but was running unbelievably awful. The dash was lit up like a christmas tree! It flickered like crazy and the car was being very very strange. I only needed to go 200 feet down the road to my work parking lot so I drove it but man I was surprised I made it. I decided since my interior lighting was flickering badly even when the car was off, the battery was the first thing I should replaced. Sure enough it cured the issue. So seems like hit up the battery first, then the alternator. Thanks, Mark
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#7. Head gasket middles :-P - from Mark Duckworth
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Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2007 19:49:51 -0500 From: Mark Duckworth <mdlkml@atari-source.com> Subject: Head gasket middles :-P Hey guys, First of all I wanted to thank everyone who emailed me and helped me acquire parts. Without this list being around, I never ever would have attempted such an undertaking myself. I have read every email and will respond to each one individually once I get time. Your advice and guides are absolutely invaluable. Today I finished what is in my opinion the absolute worst part of this job, draining and disassembly of the cooling system. I really really really hate coolant, and much prefer the leaking of gasoline on me when I was working on the injectors. This involved removal of fan, radiator hoses, draining coolant, removal of all heater hoses (well I'll get them out eventually :-P) I noticed on draining the coolant that it had a twinge of black in it from oil contamination. The oil when held up to a bright flourescent light was a little green, but there was no milkshake whatsoever. The oil itself was slightly thicker than normal but that's about it. I can't help but to think I may have caught it early which hopefully saved my engine a little. I took the water pump out and saw that it looks exactly like my new one with the spot welded metal impeller. I wonder if they switched to this in 96? Or is my water pump possibly not original indicating that my service records aren't complete :( I also got the exhaust unbolted. I chose the top down approach... Once I got into the groove all was well - I found taking out the air pump for additional space was very helpful, and my arms got cut up far less. Which leads me to my next list of questions: How on earth do you get the accessory and a/c belt tensioners out? I have new replacements but for some reason it's not straightforward to me, especially the accessory tensioner. Can anyone point me to a realoem page that has the dual zone climate control heater hoses, I seem to not have all of them in my first shipment of parts. Am I crazy to not replace crankshaft and knock sensors (just camshaft position only) on a 180Kmile car? I really wanted to save a little money but seems like it might be saving a little to spend a lot. I think my new (less than 1 year old) radiator has a hole. Any way to pressure test them outside the car? The metal heater hose coming out and terminating on the drivers side under the intake manifold has what looks like a plastic nipple on it. Is this user serviceable or does the whole metal line need replaced? I'd hate for all the parts I'm replacing to amount to nothing when a tiny piece of plastic fails. What socket do I need to get the valve cover bolts out. I took the covers off thinking those were the bolts and gave it a yank and was shocked to look inside and see nuts/bolts inside. My 9mm seems too small and my 10mm won't fit into the hole. When I took the exhaust off, most of them came out as a nut and stud combo, but a couple just the nut came off. I've decided this is not a good thing, am I correct? When I pull the head off, do I just need to take a vicegrips to these studs to pull them out? I examined my suspension and came to no conclusion as to why I've had handling issues lately. The only thing I see is a need for new shocks and springs. It seems I'm well on my way, so far just careful organization and notes, nothing difficult at all by itself, just very long and tedious all together. But reassembly is always tougher right? :-P More photos: http://picasaweb.google.com/evaporated/M3HeadGasketRepair Thanks again guys! Mark Duckworth
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#8. erratic temp gauge - from Brad DeMotte
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Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2007 07:17:08 -0500 From: "Brad DeMotte" <brad@demottearchitects.com> Subject: erratic temp gauge Guys, I have a '97 M3 with 120K on the clock, with a temp gauge that's on the blink. Once running for a few minutes and at highway speeds, the temp gauge will climb past 12:00 "normal" position and then continue to climb towards the red, sometimes lighting up. Then it will settle back down to the default 12:00 position. A few minutes later it will start to climb again towards the red, then settle down again. If allowed to sit & idle, it will definitely climb to the red but will settle back down if moving. There is no coolant loss and the car doesn't seem to be overheating. There is no antifreeze smell in the cabin, so I don't think it's the heater core going bad (but I don't believe it's ever been replaced). Suspect parts are the thermostat & the water pump, both of which have been replaced more than once. This wouldn't be the first time I got a bad thermostat, which was replaced recently. There's the possibility the thermostat was installed backwards, of course. Any similar experiences out there and/or advice? Thanks, Brad DeMotte '97 M3 '91 964 C4
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#9. carfax anyone? - from Goss, Patrick - PA
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Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2007 12:23:21 -0600 From: "Goss, Patrick - PA" <Patrick.Goss@GMACM.COM> Subject: carfax anyone? Would anybody be willing to run JHMED8364LS003368 for me? M3 content: I netted 30.2 mpg on a disciplined Sunday hwy drive this weekend. It seems good things can happen when staying below 70 mph, that and fresh tie rods and proper alignment finally! And this is before my coil and plug replacement, (next on to-do list). Patrick
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#10. Re: [E36M3] erratic temp gauge - from Brian Ruiz
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Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2007 10:29:07 -0800 From: "Brian Ruiz" <eurowerke@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] erratic temp gauge Brad, Yes the thermostat is a possibility, but I think you're running into air bubbles in the cooling system. My old 91 Explorer does the same thing occasionally (although it's in dire need of a coolant flush and fill). I'd suggest to try rebleeding the cooling system and top up as necessary. I've heard putting the front end up on ramps or otherwise helps to bleed all the hidden bubbles out. Brian build 8/95 On 1/17/07, Brad DeMotte <brad@demottearchitects.com> wrote: > > Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2007 07:17:08 -0500 > From: "Brad DeMotte" <brad@demottearchitects.com> > Subject: erratic temp gauge > > Guys, > > I have a '97 M3 with 120K on the clock, with a temp gauge that's on the > blink. Once running for a few minutes and at highway speeds, the temp > gauge > will climb past 12:00 "normal" position and then continue to climb towards > the red, sometimes lighting up. Then it will settle back down to the > default > 12:00 position. A few minutes later it will start to climb again towards > the > red, then settle down again. If allowed to sit & idle, it will definitely > climb to the red but will settle back down if moving. > > There is no coolant loss and the car doesn't seem to be overheating. There > is no antifreeze smell in the cabin, so I don't think it's the heater core > going bad (but I don't believe it's ever been replaced). Suspect parts are > the thermostat & the water pump, both of which have been replaced more > than > once. This wouldn't be the first time I got a bad thermostat, which was > replaced recently. There's the possibility the thermostat was installed > backwards, of course. > > Any similar experiences out there and/or advice? > > Thanks, > > Brad DeMotte > > '97 M3 > '91 964 C4 > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > >