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#1. Re: [E36M3] interpreting CEL codes - from Christopher Bauer
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Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2007 16:08:24 -0600 From: Christopher Bauer <chrisbauer@vzavenue.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] interpreting CEL codes Secondary Air is too low. Isn't that the sensor that checks that that annoying pump is working when you first start the car up? If so, it's an emissions thing. Chris ---- Original message ---- >Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2007 16:05:00 -0600 >From: "Tom Yee" <tomgsr@hotmail.com> and tracing codes >F5 and F6) and indicate that the secondary air system is too low for both >cylinder banks (1-3 and 4-6). >What does this code actually mean? Is it related to an O2 sensor issue? >The car does not exhibit any drivability issues, and there have been no >engine component changes in the past few months. > >Thanks for any insight! > >Regards, >Tom Yee >
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#2. Re: Mystery Electrical Problem - from Shane Kleinpeter
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Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2007 14:43:36 -0800 (PST) From: Shane Kleinpeter <sak335@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: Mystery Electrical Problem > So seems like hit up the battery first, then the alternator. Well, that's what I thought too, but 2 years later I'm still chasing it. I gave up and just started carrying a booster pack. The thing that is maddening is the erratic nature of it. Sometimes it will sit at the airport for two weeks and start right up, other times it will drain overnight. The part of me that is disgusted with the car wants to dump at the dealership and let them figure it out, the stubborn part of me feels like I can beat it eventually. Then there's that third part that has me thinking harder and harder about a used 997... Shane Kleinpeter http://www.justracing.com/homepage/sak335 '96 M3 '94 325i #76 ITS / JP ____________________________________________________________________________________ Food fight? Enjoy some healthy debate in the Yahoo! Answers Food & Drink Q&A.. http://answers.yahoo.com/dir/?link=list&sid=396545367
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Re: Head gasket middles :-P - from marty
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Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2007 17:43:49 -0500 From: marty <mfraiser@earthlink.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Head gasket middles :-P There is something funny about those bolts - if they are the ones i'm thinking about - but i can't remember what it is. The funny thing is there are some bolts, or maybe they're nuts, you see through some holes you think you need to remove with a thin-walled 10mm socket but you don't need to. They don't hold the cover on and there's something else that comes off and they're just sitting there easily accessible when you pull the cover. You'd think I might remember since I've done 5 of them, sort of - two 540i V8s and one M3. Danged failing memory - although my excuse is they were a year or so apart and got pushed out of my memory for something obviously more important. It's almost like a new project every time. i've got a custom-made thin-walled deep 1/4" drive 10mm socket if Mark needs it :) marty 96 M3 - btdt but can't remember what i did Neil Maller wrote: > What socket do I need to get the valve cover bolts out. I took the > covers off thinking those were the bolts and gave it a yank and was > shocked to look inside and see nuts/bolts inside. My 9mm seems too > small and my 10mm won't fit into the hole. > > > I don't recall anything special about those (although that may say more > about my memory...). However as a general tip a set of 1/4" drive sockets is > really useful for fitting into those confined spaces. >
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#4. Re: [E36M3] front end - from Doug Wirth
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Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2007 14:46:09 -0800 (PST) From: Doug Wirth <doug_wirth@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] front end I just did mine a few weeks ago. for the price of two sets of steel arms you can get one set of Alum. arms. If you are not competing for the win I wouldn't bother. My car is a 80% track car. I did go with GC control arm bearings though. Brian Ruiz <eurowerke@gmail.com> wrote: Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2007 13:34:25 -0800 From: "Brian Ruiz" Subject: front end I am in need of rebuilding my front end (control arms, maybe bushings too since I have them, and tie rods), and I was considering the aluminum control arms from the E30 M3 (p/n 31.12.1.130.823). I was wondering if they at all change the suspension geometry versus the standard steel control arms. I was also wondering if they would last as long as the steel arms, i.e. is there anything about the nature of the arm being aluminum that wears out the ball joints faster, or that necessitates replacing the arm more often than you would a steel one? They will be used on the street, with a rare DE here and there. TIA, Brian build 8/95 ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm ************************************************* Doug
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#5. Re: [E36M3] interpreting CEL codes - from Mark Duckworth
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Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2007 18:06:07 -0500 From: Mark Duckworth <mdlkml@atari-source.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] interpreting CEL codes I know my little electric air pump gets noisier as it gets colder. Maybe yours seized. Thanks, Mark On Wed, 2007-01-17 at 16:05 -0600, Tom Yee wrote: > Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2007 17:01:05 -0500 > From: "Tom Yee" <tomgsr@hotmail.com> > Subject: interpreting CEL codes > > Hello, enthusiasts, > > I am wondering if anyone has had the CEL go on (and, after using the Peake > reader, going to table 16,which directs you to table 11, and tracing codes > F5 and F6) and indicate that the secondary air system is too low for both > cylinder banks (1-3 and 4-6). This has occurred twice since December with > my 97 M3/4, most recently yesterday with an ambient temperature of about 6 F > degrees. I don't think it was that cold in December (as it has been way > balmy in Massachusetts up until yesterday). > > What does this code actually mean? Is it related to an O2 sensor issue? > The car does not exhibit any drivability issues, and there have been no > engine component changes in the past few months. > > Thanks for any insight! > > Regards, > Tom Yee > > _________________________________________________________________ > FREE online classifieds from Windows Live Expo buy and sell with people > you know > http://clk.atdmt.com/MSN/go/msnnkwex0010000001msn/direct/01/?href=http://expo.live.com?s_cid=Hotmail_tagline_12/06 > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > >
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Re: Head gasket middles :-P - from Mark Duckworth
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Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2007 18:07:54 -0500 From: Mark Duckworth <mdlkml@atari-source.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Head gasket middles :-P You know in the pictures I've seen I remember a metal valve cover so I guess the plastic is supposed to come off of that? Then I would be able to easily access those nuts. Thanks, Mark On Wed, 2007-01-17 at 16:45 -0600, marty wrote: > Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2007 17:43:49 -0500 > From: marty <mfraiser@earthlink.net> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Head gasket middles :-P > > There is something funny about those bolts - if they are the ones i'm > thinking about - but i can't remember what it is. The funny thing is > there are some bolts, or maybe they're nuts, you see through some holes > you think you need to remove with a thin-walled 10mm socket but you > don't need to. They don't hold the cover on and there's something else > that comes off and they're just sitting there easily accessible when you > pull the cover. > > You'd think I might remember since I've done 5 of them, sort of - two > 540i V8s and one M3. Danged failing memory - although my excuse is > they were a year or so apart and got pushed out of my memory for > something obviously more important. It's almost like a new project > every time. > > i've got a custom-made thin-walled deep 1/4" drive 10mm socket if Mark > needs it :) > > marty > 96 M3 - btdt but can't remember what i did > > Neil Maller wrote: > > What socket do I need to get the valve cover bolts out. I took the > > covers off thinking those were the bolts and gave it a yank and was > > shocked to look inside and see nuts/bolts inside. My 9mm seems too > > small and my 10mm won't fit into the hole. > > > > > > I don't recall anything special about those (although that may say more > > about my memory...). However as a general tip a set of 1/4" drive sockets is > > really useful for fitting into those confined spaces. > > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > >
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#7. RE: interpreting CEL codes - from Burgess, Kim L
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Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2007 15:15:03 -0800 From: "Burgess, Kim L" <kim.l.burgess@boeing.com> Subject: RE: interpreting CEL codes I believe it means that the Secondary Air System is not developing enough volume of air to create a lean burn during start-up. Failure of the system generally starts with the valve that is attached to the pipes in the bank1 and bank2 cylinder head exhaust pipes. Failure of the valve allows exhaust gases to back up into the pump depositing contaminates in the bearings. This degrades the bearings and the pump is unable to pump as much air at cold startup. There is also a non-replaceable air pump intake air filter on the pump that gets dirty and can clog with age. There are actually three components to this system: the pump; the exhaust manifold valve; and the valve vacuum control module. The first two are replaceable at ~ $300 purchased as a 'kit' at one of the many online parts retailers, about ~ $80 for the valve alone. Could be bad O2 sensors also. O2 sensors are 60 to 100k replacement items. Most get 100K use before failures related to them surface. KLBurgess - at least that's how I understand it to be. -------------------- 10 -------------------- Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2007 17:01:05 -0500 From: "Tom Yee" <tomgsr@hotmail.com> Subject: interpreting CEL codes Hello, enthusiasts, I am wondering if anyone has had the CEL go on (and, after using the Peake reader, going to table 16,which directs you to table 11, and tracing codes F5 and F6) and indicate that the secondary air system is too low for both cylinder banks (1-3 and 4-6). This has occurred twice since December with my 97 M3/4, most recently yesterday with an ambient temperature of about 6 F degrees. I don't think it was that cold in December (as it has been way balmy in Massachusetts up until yesterday). What does this code actually mean? Is it related to an O2 sensor issue? The car does not exhibit any drivability issues, and there have been no engine component changes in the past few months. Thanks for any insight! Regards, Tom Yee
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#8. Re: [E36M3] interpreting CEL codes - from Shelhart2@aol.com
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Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2007 19:24:21 EST From: Shelhart2@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] interpreting CEL codes I had the same problem and think it was that pump that kicks in when the car starts as chris said. I did replace the pump and my issue went away. It is located on the passenger side near the firewall. It has a tube that extends to the front of the car. shel
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Dayton Service...fixing belt - from Marc Plante
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Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2007 20:28:19 -0500 From: "Marc Plante" <marcva@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Dayton Service...fixing belt Not sure if this is timely, but it seems like you've lost a belt, maybe a pulley. The belt isn't that tough to do on your own if you're in a pinch. You'll need to get to a parts store to buy a new serpentine belt, a 7 mm allen socket with a longish ratchet handle or you can use a 7 mm allen key with a closed end crescent wrench. If you need a pulley, it's probably the tensioner pulley, which you can swap from the air conditioner, or you can buy an air conditioner pulley. once you've done that, you need to pop the plastic cap off the end of the tensioner pulley, insert the allen key in and twist counterclockwise to release the tension when putting the belt on. Regarding putting on the belt...though a lot of manuals say you need to pull the fan, you can snake the belt around the fan to get it on. I have a pulley explode on me just outside of Columbus and did this repair muself in the parking lot of a napa parts store (with the aid of a manual to show me belt routing, etc. HTH, Marc Plante E36 M3/4 Vienna, VA On 1/17/07, E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> wrote: > > ************************************************************** > E36M3 List - Forum for Discussion of E36M3 Series Automobiles > ************************************************************** > BMWMPower on the Web: http://www.bmw-m.net > ************************************************************** > > This digest contains the following messages: > > 1. RE: carfax anyone? > by: Goss, Patrick - PA <Patrick.Goss@GMACM.COM> > 2. Re: [E36M3] erratic temp gauge > by: Jim Bassett <jim@jimbassett.com> > 3. The third time is the charm > by: Rex Tener <rex_tener@yahoo.com> > 4. 95 Manual Vader Seats FS > by: don wentz <dasduck@comcast.net> > 5. Re: Head gasket middles :-P > by: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> > 6. VANOS noise... > by: Mpower <mpower@obikwan.com> > 7. front end > by: Brian Ruiz <eurowerke@gmail.com> > 8. Re: [E36M3] VANOS noise... > by: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> > 9. Re: [E36M3] front end > by: Jim Bassett <jim@jimbassett.com> > 10. interpreting CEL codes > by: Tom Yee <tomgsr@hotmail.com> > > -------------------- 1 -------------------- > Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2007 12:55:28 -0600 > From: "Goss, Patrick - PA" <Patrick.Goss@GMACM.COM> > Subject: RE: carfax anyone? > > What a great list we have..... 5 minutes later, and I already have the > desired report! Thanks again!!! - Patrick > > > > ________________________________ > > From: Goss, Patrick - PA > Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2007 1:23 PM > To: E36M3 > Subject: carfax anyone? > > > > Would anybody be willing to run JHMED8364LS003368 for me? > > > > M3 content: I netted 30.2 mpg on a disciplined Sunday hwy drive this > weekend. It seems good things can happen when staying below 70 mph, > that and fresh tie rods and proper alignment finally! And this is > before my coil and plug replacement, (next on to-do list). > > > > Patrick > > > > > -------------------- 2 -------------------- > Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2007 11:33:03 -0800 (PST) > From: "Jim Bassett" <jim@jimbassett.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] erratic temp gauge > > On Wed, January 17, 2007 10:34 am, Brian Ruiz said: > > I've heard putting the front end up on ramps or otherwise helps to bleed > > all > > the hidden bubbles out. > > Here's a technique that one of my local mechanic's suggested, and it's > worked flawlessly on recent cooling system work on both cars. The first > step assumes you've drained the entire system and/or replaced the > thermostat, thus the bottom thermo housing hose is off. > > - Place a screwdriver or other tool in the hose at the bottom of the therm > housing, with the hose on the housing; fill the expansion tank until fluid > comes out of the hose; remove tool and secure hose; > - With bleeder screw removed, fill expansion tank all the way full, until > no more air bubbles come out of the bleed hole (only fluid); secure bleed > screw & cap; > - Run or drive car at high revs, with heater on full (my mechanic > described it as "go out and hammer it" - OK, I can do that :-)); > - After cool, check fluid level, top off if neccesary. > - While you are done at this point, being, ummm "detail oriented" <g>, I > checked the level each morning for a couple of days and then siphoned out > the excess that was over the "Cold" mark. > > Jim Bassett > 1998 M3/4 > 1993 325is #44 JP > > > > > -------------------- 3 -------------------- > Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2007 12:39:41 -0800 > From: Rex Tener <rex_tener@yahoo.com> > Subject: The third time is the charm > > I sent this out six months ago after selling my original owner 1996 M3. > > >Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2006 10:26:41 -0700 > >To: E36 M3 List <e36m3@bmw-m.net> > >From: Rex Tener <rex_tener@yahoo.com> > >Subject: WTB: E36 M3 Sedan 1997 1998 M3/4 Alpine White Manual > Transmission > > > >I am doing a search for an E36 M3 Sedan. I know ... I am going to > >the dark side after five years with my 1995 M3 and ten years with my 1996 > M3. > > After looking for six months I finally found a 1998 M3 Sedan that met > most of my qualifications. I found it via autotrader.com at the Land > Rover dealer in Las Vegas. I would like to publicly thank Kirk > Lachman. When I flew in on Saturday morning he was just a phone call > away in case I needed help with the car. However, everything went > pretty smoothly and I was back in the SF Bay Area around 9:00 pm. > > I made a compromise on two items, color and non-fold down rear > seats. Instead of Alpine White it is Bright Red (Helrot). It has > all the options *except* for power front seats, fold down rear seats, > and luxury package. > > I am still on the lookout for a low mileage near perfect Alpine White > 1995 M3 Coupe or 1998 M3 Sedan. However, while I am searching for > that mythical white beast I figured I would have fun with a Helrot one. > > My wife, who joined this list before I did, got in the driver's seat > the next day and said, "This feels just like home". I agree! > > Rex Tener > rex_tener@yahoo.com > > > > > -------------------- 4 -------------------- > Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2007 13:00:18 -0800 > From: "don wentz" <dasduck@comcast.net> > Subject: 95 Manual Vader Seats FS > > Saw this in the Portland OR Craglist: > > http://portland.craigslist.org/wsc/pts/262114793.html > Black Vader sport seats out of my '95 M3. > > These seats are in Excellent condition, only minor wear on the side > bolsters. Non-heated, Manual. These seats will fit any BMW 3-series E36. > > I'm lookin to get $550 for these seats, you're not gonna find a better > deal. > > > The seats are located in Salem > lvcthe3rd@gmail.com > > Just passing it along, > Don > 93 Euro 3.0L 325is > > -- > No virus found in this outgoing message. > Checked by AVG Free Edition. > Version: 7.1.410 / Virus Database: 268.16.13/634 - Release Date: 1/17/2007 > > > > > > -------------------- 5 -------------------- > Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2007 16:04:59 -0500 > From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> > Subject: Re: Head gasket middles :-P > > on 1/17/07 1:44 PM, Mark Duckworth <mdlkml@atari-source.com> wrote: > > > Am I crazy to not replace crankshaft and knock sensors (just camshaft > > position only) on a 180Kmile car? I really wanted to save a little > > money but seems like it might be saving a little to spend a lot. > > I'd certainly replace the knock sensors, since they're known failure items > and extremely hard to do without taking off the intake manifold. > > > What socket do I need to get the valve cover bolts out. I took the > > covers off thinking those were the bolts and gave it a yank and was > > shocked to look inside and see nuts/bolts inside. My 9mm seems too > > small and my 10mm won't fit into the hole. > > I don't recall anything special about those (although that may say more > about my memory...). However as a general tip a set of 1/4" drive sockets > is > really useful for fitting into those confined spaces. > > > When I took the exhaust off, most of them came out as a nut and stud > > combo, but a couple just the nut came off. I've decided this is not a > > good thing, am I correct? When I pull the head off, do I just need to > > take a vicegrips to these studs to pull them out? > > Because the nuts corrode onto the studs it's normal for some of the studs > to > unscrew out of the head. When I did mine I panned to replace them all and > had an entire new set of the copper coated nuts and studs on hand. They're > not expensive. > > Neil > Fort Wayne, IN > 96 M3 - Bastard child > 03 525iT - Sterling Grey Metallic > 05 Mini - Cooper S with LSD > > > > > > > -------------------- 6 -------------------- > Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2007 13:06:02 -0800 > From: Mpower <mpower@obikwan.com> > Subject: VANOS noise... > > My 7/94 production M3 is making the dreaded VANOS noise now. I have > already > changed the primary tensioner and the noise is still there. > > You can really hear it when the RPMs are falling down from around 4k'ish. > > So my questions are: > -Is it bad to just "leave it" and drive/flog the car like this? (just > annoying noise I hope that won't break anything)? > > -Does anyone know of a shop/mechanic/machine shop that does the "custom > milling" that is supposedly the "flaw" in the VANOS units that causes the > noise? This was mentioned on bimmerforums and I contacted that shop. > According to the guy it worked great, but they are no longer offering this > service. Does anyone else have any ideas? > > Thanks! > -kelvin > > PS: this S50us is louder than my S14 was! > > ________________________________________________ > Message sent using UebiMiau 2.7.9 > > > > -------------------- 7 -------------------- > Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2007 13:34:25 -0800 > From: "Brian Ruiz" <eurowerke@gmail.com> > Subject: front end > > I am in need of rebuilding my front end (control arms, maybe bushings too > since I have them, and tie rods), and I was considering the aluminum > control > arms from the E30 M3 (p/n 31.12.1.130.823). I was wondering if they at > all > change the suspension geometry versus the standard steel control arms. I > was also wondering if they would last as long as the steel arms, i.e. is > there anything about the nature of the arm being aluminum that wears out > the > ball joints faster, or that necessitates replacing the arm more often than > you would a steel one? They will be used on the street, with a rare DE > here > and there. > > TIA, > Brian > build 8/95 > > > > -------------------- 8 -------------------- > Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2007 13:42:14 -0800 (PST) > From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] VANOS noise... > > Where are you located? I can fix it. =) > > Chester > > --- Mpower <mpower@obikwan.com> wrote: > > So my questions are: > > -Is it bad to just "leave it" and drive/flog the car like this? (just > > annoying noise I hope that won't break anything)? > > > > -Does anyone know of a shop/mechanic/machine shop that does the "custom > > milling" that is supposedly the "flaw" in the VANOS units that causes > the > > noise? This was mentioned on bimmerforums and I contacted that shop. > > According to the guy it worked great, but they are no longer offering > this > > service. Does anyone else have any ideas? > > > > > > > -------------------- 9 -------------------- > Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2007 13:55:37 -0800 (PST) > From: "Jim Bassett" <jim@jimbassett.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] front end > > On Wed, January 17, 2007 1:34 pm, Brian Ruiz said: > > They will be used on the street, with a rare DE > > here > > and there. > > Based on your use, and the price difference, I'd stick with the steel > arms. > > My 2 cents, > Jim Bassett > > > > > -------------------- 10 -------------------- > Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2007 17:01:05 -0500 > From: "Tom Yee" <tomgsr@hotmail.com> > Subject: interpreting CEL codes > > Hello, enthusiasts, > > I am wondering if anyone has had the CEL go on (and, after using the Peake > reader, going to table 16,which directs you to table 11, and tracing codes > F5 and F6) and indicate that the secondary air system is too low for both > cylinder banks (1-3 and 4-6). This has occurred twice since December with > my 97 M3/4, most recently yesterday with an ambient temperature of about 6 > F > degrees. I don't think it was that cold in December (as it has been way > balmy in Massachusetts up until yesterday). > > What does this code actually mean? Is it related to an O2 sensor issue? > The car does not exhibit any drivability issues, and there have been no > engine component changes in the past few months. > > Thanks for any insight! > > Regards, > Tom Yee > > _________________________________________________________________ > FREE online classifieds from Windows Live Expo � buy and sell with people > you know > > http://clk.atdmt.com/MSN/go/msnnkwex0010000001msn/direct/01/?href=http://expo.live.com?s_cid=Hotmail_tagline_12/06 > > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > >
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#10. Re: [E36M3] interpreting CEL codes - from Tom Melton
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Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2007 09:47:48 -0500 From: "Tom Melton" <Tom.Melton@emoryhealthcare.org> Subject: Re: [E36M3] interpreting CEL codes I am pretty sure I have the pump and valve/etc from my 97 M3 that is now an IP racer. I am away from home for a few days, but if anyone wants me to check when I return - let me know. I am sure we could meet an agreeable price. :-) -Tom >>> <Shelhart2@aol.com> 1/17/2007 7:24 PM >>> Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2007 19:24:21 EST From: Shelhart2@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] interpreting CEL codes I had the same problem and think it was that pump that kicks in when the car starts as chris said. I did replace the pump and my issue went away. It is located on the passenger side near the firewall. It has a tube that extends to the front of the car. shel