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#1. Re: Injector Cleaning - from Neil Maller
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Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2007 14:11:00 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Injector Cleaning on 1/23/07 1:54 PM, Mark Duckworth <mdlkml@atari-source.com> wrote: > Vanos seems to be the most troublesome part of the whole ordeal. Anyone > can tighten down some bolts but that vanos timing looks interesting :-P Yeah, it's sort of tricky rather than hard as such. A very good pro mechanic initially got it wrong (one tooth off) when installing my cams. I got it right during the head gasket install, but I had marked the parts beforehand and took a lot of time double checking on reassembly. OBD-II will tell you promptly if it's wrong... Neil Fort Wayne, IN 96 M3 - Bastard child 03 525iT - Sterling Grey Metallic 05 Mini - Cooper S with LSD
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Re: Injector Cleaning - from Chester Wong
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Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2007 11:35:39 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Injector Cleaning OBD-II will not tell you if it's wrong if your timing is slightly retarded. Best way to check is by using a combination of a depth gauge, cam locators, VANOS solenoid energizer and compressed air to actuate the VANOS while turning the engine by the crank. Chester --- Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> wrote: > Yeah, it's sort of tricky rather than hard as such. A very good pro mechanic > initially got it wrong (one tooth off) when installing my cams. I got it > right during the head gasket install, but I had marked the parts beforehand > and took a lot of time double checking on reassembly. > > OBD-II will tell you promptly if it's wrong...
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#3. Re: Subframe Bushing R&R (stock class race preparation) - from Stan Shaw
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Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2007 15:31:30 -0500 From: "Stan Shaw" <Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net> Subject: Re: Subframe Bushing R&R (stock class race preparation) >Not me. Speaking as one who has a bolt-in rollbar I'd recommend a welded-in >cage. The amount of extra stiffness that gives to the chassis is amazing. > >I wonder how many track equipped cars do get returned to street duty and/or >sold? (That's right, only driven at weekends, ma'am.) Could be wrong, but I >suspect not all that many. They probably get too beat up, or sold as track >cars or race car projects. Well, for BMW CCA Club Racing a welded in cage is now required, so my bolt in cage will be welded thus gaining additional stiffness. My car has 160k miles on it with mods that have been there for many tens of thousand miles, so if it were ever sold (unlikely) it would be sold as a track/race car. Having the option of driving it on the street would be nice, and while I suspect I might chance taking it on the street once in a while with the roll cage installed. I recognize that helmets are a required safety item for a car with a roll cage, and suspect the police would not favor my driving on the streets with a helmet. So the welded in cage basically makes it an unsafe street car... Regards, Stan Shaw Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net Phone: (413) 599-0399 Fax: (413) 599-0421 Excell.Net Owner/Operator http://www.Excell.Net/ 928 Owners Club President http://www.928OC.org/ 928Racing.net Team Member http://www.928Racing.net/ "Liberty once lost is lost forever." - John Adams
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Doesn't that say something... - from Marc Plante
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Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2007 20:55:40 -0500 From: "Marc Plante" <marcva@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Doesn't that say something... I'm trying to remember who posted to the old Welty digest a list of, "No, I'm not a loser car geek..." that then followed with a long list of details including, "So, I was having a beer with my mechanic the other day..." It mentioned other idiosyncracies we find normal like, "standing in a hot parking lot all day long for three 40 second runs through cones." It was a Steve... Someone from the Mid Atlantic area (Phila?) Anyone else out there remember this bit? Too much trivia in my head. Marc Plante 1997 E36 M3/4 75k 2005 Child (15 mos)
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#5. Re: Head Gasket - from M3buzz
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Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2007 22:29:26 -0500 From: "M3buzz" <m3buzz@comcast.net> Subject: Re: Head Gasket Hey Mark - glad the head came off, great pic series too. Good luck with the job, keep us posted! Wondering if you're considering any of the following while you have as much off the car as you do: Engine- higher flow injectors, cams, pullies, new belts. Intake - M50 manifold, ASC delete, CAI, 3.5"HFM. Cooling - fan delete, aluminum radiator (esp if that is a hole!), HD water pump, definitely an aluminum thermostat cover, new thermostat, new fan switch, new hoses everywhere. PS - clean reservoir, tighten or replace clamps, since they probably leak, then new fluid (when was last change!). You certainly would have it easier than most that do those upgrades, since all you'd have is reassembly! Also curious as to what you do to the valves and pistons at this point? Do they get replaced? Cleaned and adjusted? probably the latter, but wondering what most do with the opportunity of having the head off the car! Port and polish time?! Anyway, best of luck with the rest of the job!! Tom > Date: Sat, 20 Jan 2007 21:24:17 -0500 > From: Mark Duckworth <mdlkml@atari-source.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Head Gasket > > This has me worried now honestly with how much force I applied. I hope > I didn't damage the core because I'm out another $800 if I did. And I > especially hope I didn't damage the block. Honestly it really didn't > move at all so hopefully not, but I suppose it's possible I twisted it. > We shall see. > > Thanks, > Makr
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Re: Head Gasket - from Mark Duckworth
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Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2007 23:13:04 -0500 From: Mark Duckworth <mdlkml@atari-source.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Head Gasket Hello, I've pondered this long and hard seriously. What to do, what to do. The car has 180,000 miles. Well the bottom end doesn't appear to be in that bad of shape, except for the last cylinder which still probably pales in comparison to my 3000GT. I've decided that barring horrible measurements I am leaving the bottom end alone. The rationale is as follows: No knocking or tapping, even when cold - ever. The only time I've ever heard a tap is when romping on it for extended periods of time and that's from the valve train. I've consistently used 5W-40 lubromoly full synthetic at an absolute max of 5000 miles. No exceptions. Sometimes I change the oil at 3000 miles just to make myself feel better. The car passes emissions with a huge huge margin. I'm talking no number is within 50% of max, not even the bad one, NOX I believe it was. It had a new catalytic converter installed at 60K. The car has a ton of power. On the rare occaision I find another M3, we go at it and it has never been anything other than neck and neck. Regarding performance parts, OEM has last an asburd amount of time for me, so I'm sold. OEM all the way. This isn't a race car yet. It's just way too nice still. Regarding cooling system, the car had new main hoses and new thermostat/housing installed at 165K so I'm leaving those. It also had a new radiator which I am 90% sure is failing so it's getting replaced again with or without bimmerparts help (it's less than a year old but I have no idea what warranty they have if any). The rest of the cooling system is getting replaced. Absolutely every single part except for the heater cores and valves. I know the heater cores will go at some point. But I also know I'll notice the failure immediately so it's ok, Besides in theory the heater valves should be able to close off flow to the cores to get me home. I don't know if they fully close or not. I'd hope so. The cooling system parts replaced include expansion tank, radiator, all heater hoses (they are numerous), and hoses going to the throttle body. I don't seem to have any effects of electrolysis so that's good. The entire vacuum system that I can see will be replaced. The hoses are cheap. I am going to replace the AIR valve which is right above the exhaust since my pump is noisy. Hopefully this will prolong the life. There's what appears to be exhaust residue inside the hose suggesting the failure of the valve. I've decided I'd be an idiot to not replace the following parts: head studs, all gaskets, cam shaft sensor, crank shaft sensor, knock sensors, tensioners and pulleys, water pump (though I'm a bit grumpy because the old one turns out to be a metal impeller that is perfectly wonderful looking). Regarding the head, I am taking it to VAC motorsports tomorrow. As luck would have it, they are local which means I don't have to build a jig or crate for the head and instead set it gingerly sideways on the exhaust side on a bunch of towels and cardboard boxes in my trunk, then fastened it in position with numerous bungee cords. The trip is 20 miles to south philly. We are most likely going to do a 3 angle valve job, but possibly 6 angle if the core is usable. The head will be cleaned, magnafluxed and measured. I told them I want recommendations on the cams, lifters, valves and guides. They did tell me I get new guides regardless. I told them to remove the cams themselves and they are charging me $100 for that. I know I'm probably paying more than I should but they have a name and they're local. My general opinion is because I don't have the money to completely finish yet the suspension, the seats, the clutch, the bottom end, etc, than I am doing it as absolutely inexpensively as possible where it can still be considered done right. I'm also cleaning the fuel injectors, replacing the spark plugs, replacing all filters, putting in new BMW coolant. The coolant and oil were replaced religiously more often than necessary. I'm hoping a couple years down the road my career will have taken off, I'll already have my house and I'll have some disposable income. If not, I'll just go buy a pontiac gto :-P I plan to take the result of this car and drive it to 240,000 miles or 2 years of my driving. I plan on only the clutch failing from here on. We'll see how my plans go :-P Thanks, Mark On Tue, 2007-01-23 at 21:34 -0600, M3buzz wrote: > Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2007 22:29:26 -0500 > From: "M3buzz" <m3buzz@comcast.net> > Subject: Re: Head Gasket > > Hey Mark - glad the head came off, great pic series too. Good luck with the > job, keep us posted! > > Wondering if you're considering any of the following while you have as much > off the car as you do: Engine- higher flow injectors, cams, pullies, new > belts. Intake - M50 manifold, ASC delete, CAI, 3.5"HFM. Cooling - fan > delete, aluminum radiator (esp if that is a hole!), HD water pump, > definitely an aluminum thermostat cover, new thermostat, new fan switch, new > hoses everywhere. PS - clean reservoir, tighten or replace clamps, since > they probably leak, then new fluid (when was last change!). > > You certainly would have it easier than most that do those upgrades, since > all you'd have is reassembly! > > Also curious as to what you do to the valves and pistons at this point? Do > they get replaced? Cleaned and adjusted? probably the latter, but wondering > what most do with the opportunity of having the head off the car! Port and > polish time?! > Anyway, best of luck with the rest of the job!! > Tom > > > Date: Sat, 20 Jan 2007 21:24:17 -0500 > > From: Mark Duckworth <mdlkml@atari-source.com> > > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Head Gasket > > > > This has me worried now honestly with how much force I applied. I hope > > I didn't damage the core because I'm out another $800 if I did. And I > > especially hope I didn't damage the block. Honestly it really didn't > > move at all so hopefully not, but I suppose it's possible I twisted it. > > We shall see. > > > > Thanks, > > Makr > > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > >
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#7. Head Gasket Middle - from Mark Duckworth
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Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2007 23:23:21 -0500 From: Mark Duckworth <mdlkml@atari-source.com> Subject: Head Gasket Middle Hey guys, Just some more notes, as said in the previous email I'm taking head to VAC motorsports for a $899 head reconditioning + $100 fee for removal and installation of the cams. I've begun to organize and catalog parts as best I could tonight and have some pictures of it. It's the last 5 pics in the album. http://picasaweb.google.com/evaporated/M3HeadGasketRepair Questions: I need advice on cleaning the block surface and removing the old gasket. What is a suitable straight edge for checking flatness? I'm thinking a large solid level from Lowes. If I use a drill head to clean, what should I look for? Aluminum cleaning wheel? If I use solvents, which kind. Besides a shopvac, how do you clean out the threads of the head bolt holes. If I use a tap, which size do I use? Any and all information is welcome on procedure. Never used a tap/die before. When I put the head back on after reconditioning, how much coolant can I expect to leak through the new gasket? What is the break in period? Any special instructions? RPM limits? I plan to change the oil at 100 miles, 500 miles, and 1000 miles to remove the old coolant and possible contaminants. Do I retorque after doing the torque angles and running the engine for a little? Once the car is running, what are the best procedures for checking for leaks, etc. And the valve cover is filled with little squares of milkshake deep in the recesses. Cleaning will be tedious. Any tricks? Or is it just kimwipes and time. Should the water pump really be sealed with white lithium grease or is an RTV better? I used RTV on my chevrolet and it worked wonderfully. What is a good substitution for bmw recommended H-bond 1209 RTV? Are they as good? Thanks in advance for any and all answers! I so seriously appreciate you guys. Thanks, Mark Duckworth
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Head Gasket Middle - from David Thomas
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Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2007 21:25:14 -0800 From: David Thomas <dave@sasdatalink.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Head Gasket Middle On Tuesday 23 January 2007 8:24 pm, Mark Duckworth wrote: > Just some more notes, as said in the previous email I'm taking head to > VAC motorsports for a $899 head reconditioning + $100 fee for removal > and installation of the cams. I've begun to organize and catalog parts > as best I could tonight and have some pictures of it. It's the last 5 > pics in the album. Almost $1K to rebuild a S50 head for street driving? Dang. Seems high to me. Is that all labor? What new parts are you getting for that price? Dave
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Head Gasket Middle - from Mark Duckworth
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Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2007 11:07:32 -0500 From: Mark Duckworth <mdlkml@atari-source.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Head Gasket Middle On Tue, 2007-01-23 at 23:42 -0500, Ed MacVaugh wrote: > > Should the water pump really be sealed with white lithium grease or is > > an RTV better? > > I use antifreeze to lubricate the o-ring and the thermo housing formed > rubber seal. > > I used RTV on my chevrolet and it worked wonderfully. > > > This isn't a chevrolet and it would have worked fine with antifreeze also. > > > > What is a good substitution for bmw recommended H-bond 1209 RTV? Are > > they as good? > > > Where is that used? I use hylomar from Wurth but don't recall using it > on that job. > > > > Thanks in advance for any and all answers! I so seriously appreciate > > you guys. > > First Ed, thanks for your info. I think you misunderstood about the water pump. I know you use antifreeze to lubricate the gaskets on the thermo housing, but the water pump itself is supposed to use white lithium grease and I was recommended to use RTV to seal the water pump itself on my chevrolet. I understand that they're two very different cars hence me asking. It looks like remnants of white lithium grease on the water pump I pulled out so it's probably what I want. As for the RTV, you're supposed to use a small amount on the timing chain cover, and I think in other places. Thanks, Mark
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Head Gasket Middle - from Mark Duckworth
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Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2007 11:07:59 -0500 From: Mark Duckworth <mdlkml@atari-source.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Head Gasket Middle Apparently just valve guides. Mark On Tue, 2007-01-23 at 23:34 -0600, David Thomas wrote: > Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2007 21:25:14 -0800 > From: David Thomas <dave@sasdatalink.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Head Gasket Middle > > On Tuesday 23 January 2007 8:24 pm, Mark Duckworth wrote: > > Just some more notes, as said in the previous email I'm taking head to > > VAC motorsports for a $899 head reconditioning + $100 fee for removal > > and installation of the cams. I've begun to organize and catalog parts > > as best I could tonight and have some pictures of it. It's the last 5 > > pics in the album. > > Almost $1K to rebuild a S50 head for street driving? Dang. Seems high to me. > Is that all labor? What new parts are you getting for that price? > > Dave > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > >