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#1. Re: [E36M3] Gone: Free: New twist-lock floor mat connectors - from Rex Tener
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Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2007 10:41:14 -0800 From: Rex Tener <rex_tener@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Gone: Free: New twist-lock floor mat connectors At 09:14 AM 1/29/2007, Rex Tener wrote: >First person to e-mail me with their snail mail address gets them. My new set and my used set have been spoken for. I have two more people on my interest list if I find any more sets in my parts stash. Thanks, Rex
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Transmission Request - from Carlos Lopez
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Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2007 16:50:21 -0500 From: "Carlos Lopez" <clopez98m3@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Transmission Request On 1/29/07, Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> wrote: > (Carlos got my old shift lever years ago!) The 325i gearbox > uses different P/N's so my shifter bits will be needed. Ironically my E30 that had that shift lever was just recently parted out and the car went off to the recycler the other day so once again the shift lever has been freed from its home. It may live on in Simon's Spec E30 racecar. :-) Carlos 98 M3
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#3. Off Topic: Video Request - from Steve Klein
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Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2007 16:06:09 -0600 From: Steve Klein <s.klein@steveklein.cc> Subject: Off Topic: Video Request Hello, Group- Sorry for the tangent, but I'm trying to locate the Speed TV footage of the DSR race from the 2006 Runoffs this past year at Heartland Park. I've checked SpeedTV.com and can't seem to find it and a friend who was supposed to TiVO it deleted it without thinking what it was. Any and all help greatly appreciated. Thanks, Steve
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#4. Alarm Question - from Brian Bacon
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Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2007 16:17:06 -0800 From: "Brian Bacon" <bbacon@inmotionfitness.net> Subject: Alarm Question Hello Everyone I have a 1998 M3/4 with the stock BMW alarm. I have noticed lately that the alarm will sometimes sound immediately after I arm it for no Appearent reason. Has anyone else experienced this problem? If so, is it something will get worse or should I just not worry about? Thanks Brian Bacon
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#5. Bad electrical grounds - quick read - from Shelhart2@aol.com
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Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2007 20:46:48 EST From: Shelhart2@aol.com Subject: Bad electrical grounds - quick read All of my gremlins have basically been reduced to a bad couple grounds. The car is so clean that I didn't think they could be bad so I neglected to check the basics before going on my wild goose chase. Good news: I have a steady idle and no wacky gauges. bad news: I now have a spare DME and I spent an inordinate amount of time playing with everything else (I sure have a clean ICV valve :). I've attached a simple article from Grassroots Motorsports magazine that may be helpful to those not electrically inclined. It's a great short article on diagnosing some basic and common failures... Shel 1995 M3 2002 Boxster S Posted in _Articles & Interviews_ (http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/news/category/articles-interviews/) / _Tech Topics_ (http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/news/category/articles-interviews/tech-topics/) / _Restoration & Repair_ (http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/news/category/articles-interviews/restoration -repair/) by Per Schroeder (January 25th, 2005) story by carl heideman When it comes to the electrical system on a car, a lot of people shake their heads in despair. Even experienced mechanics can shy away from electrical work for fear of the unknown. While some components do use computers and advanced circuitry, solving most electrical problems just isn’t rocket science. Using simple tools and some common sense, it’s possible to diagnose and solve nearly all electrical problems quickly and easily. Among these tools are a test light, a volt meter and a good understanding of electrical basics and common problems. However, when you go out to tackle an electrical problem, remember that the generalizations in this article may not apply to your car-you’ ll be wise to consult a service manual for its specific electrical information. Golden Rules and the Basics There are several golden rules for solving problems with automotive electrical systems. Corrosion is the biggest reason for failure. Wires do not fail. Grounds, connections, and individual components fail regularly. And in most cases, it is far better to repair a faulty factory circuit than to rewire it. Corrosion is electricity’s biggest enemy. Battery terminals, fuse blocks, sensors, switches, connectors, and grounds are likely to fail because they are corroded. Cleaning or replacing these connectors will repair a great percentage of electrical problems. With most cars, the body and frame serve as one of the “wires” that feed each circuit. Usually, the car body and frame serve as the negative side of each circuit (the ground), and the positive side of the circuit is fed with a wire. If a device is not properly attached to the body or frame, or the attachment point is corroded, the circuit is compromised and will not function properly. The first thing to do when a circuit fails is to make sure it is grounded properly. Individual wires do not fail. Insulation may crack or burn off, but the wire will still conduct electricity. The only time a wire will fail is if it is physically damaged, cut or broken. Damage can usually be detected by following along the wiring loom and looking for cuts. If the outside of the loom isn’t damaged, it is safe to assume the wires inside aren’t damaged, either. If you suspect a bad wire, read on-wires don’t just go bad, but connections do. Connections at the ends of wires fail regularly. Sometimes, they break or come loose. Other times, they corrode. Factory wiring harnesses usually do not hide connections under tape or other wrappings. When tracing a problem, follow the harness and verify that each connection is clean and functional. Switches, sensors, light bulbs, and microprocessors are all electrical components that are susceptible to failure. Components with moving parts, that generate or receive heat, or that are exposed to water or other corrosives are the most likely to fail. In almost all cases, it is better to repair a factory circuit than to rewire around it. Adding circuits for new accessories is one thing, but don’t change the way one left the factory. Most factory electrical systems, including much-maligned Lucas systems, were carefully designed by trained engineers and work perfectly well until corrosion or component failure sets in. Shadetree mechanics who wire around factory circuits usually do so out of a lack of understanding. They often take shortcuts or make mistakes which can be dangerous (read as “will burn up a car”). Tools Needed Given these common problems, a 12-volt test light is an essential tool to diagnose and trace an electrical failure directly to its cause. A quality test light looks like an awl with a light bulb in the handle and a wire sticking out of the top. It should have a sharp point and an alligator clip at the end of an 18- to 36-inch-long wire. These lights are available for under $10, so every toolbox should have one. Another helpful tool is a voltmeter. Voltmeters come in two flavors, digital and analog. Each type has advantages and disadvantages, but either works well for diagnostics. Pick the type you prefer in the cost range you can afford. Voltmeters are usually combined with other measurement features. One typical combination is the Volt/Ohm meter, which includes the ability to measure resistance of a circuit in ohms. The other typical combination is the engine diagnostic meter, which usually will measure dwell (for points ignitions), current (amps), and include a tachometer function. Volt/Ohm meters are available from under $20 to much more. Engine diagnostic meters are more expensive-plan on spending at least $50, and much more for a high-quality unit. If you have to buy just one meter, start with a cheap Volt/Ohm meter. Get a few pieces of jumper wire with insulated alligator clips on the ends. It’s a good idea to include an inline fuse in the jumper wire in case of mistakes or problems. A few wire brushes and a battery post cleaner should round out your electrical tools. Troubleshooting Basics Before troubleshooting a circuit, check and clean the battery terminals and check all fuses. Make sure the battery is fully charged. If a fuse is burned out, don’t just replace it and think the problem is solved. The circuit affected must be further tested to determine why the fuse burned out. More on that later. After these preliminary checks, use the test light to test circuits as follows: 1. Check that the test light is working. Attach the alligator lead to a ground, and then touch the pointed end to the positive side of a circuit. The positive battery terminal or a terminal on the fusebox are good test points.. 2. 3. Test the positive lead at the device. Leaving the alligator lead attached to the same ground that was used to test the light, touch the pointed end of the light to the positive connection of the device that is not working. If the light glows, there is either a bad ground or bad device. If the light does not glow, trace the positive circuit that leads to the device using Step 4. 4. Test the ground at the device. Connect the alligator clip from the test light to the positive lead of the device, then touch the pointed end of the test light to a bare metal portion of the device, to its ground strap, or to a bolt that attaches the device to the body or frame. Ensure that you touch the pointed end of the light to bare metal, as paint or other coatings will not conduct electricity. If the light glows, you have power to both sides of the circuit and most likely the device has failed. If the light does not glow, clean or replace the bolts, nuts or ground strap to the device. A wire brush and/or sandpaper can be very effective for this. 5. Test the positive circuit that leads to the device. Ground the test light’s alligator clip. Test the light again to ensure the quality of the ground. Working backward from the device, follow the positive wire to its switch, sensor, or source of positive current. Test the circuit at each connection along the way (i.e., each terminal block or snap connector). If the light glows at each connection after the switch, suspect the switch. If the light stops glowing at a connection, clean or replace the connector. 6. Test a switch, if applicable. To test a switch, check that there is positive power to the switch by touching the positive lead on the “input” side of the switch. If the light does not glow, continue to trace the circuit back to the fusebox or battery. If the light glows, touch the positive lead on the “output” side of the switch. (A manual may be helpful here to show the location of these leads.) Move the switch through its range and see if the light ever glows. If the light does not glow, or glows in the wrong switch position, replace the switch. Occasionally, a switch can be repaired by spraying it with WD-40 or a similar lubricant/corrosion fighter. However, this is usually only a temporary fix. 7. Test a sensor, if applicable. To test a sensor, microprocessor, or other black box, refer to a manual for testing instructions for that specific item. This is one area where more sophisticated equipment is often needed. Alternatively, replace the sensor or item with a known working item. The latter method is not usually practical, as new electrical parts are generally not returnable and few people keep working spares. If these steps do not help solve the problem, keep in mind that it could be multiple problems. For example, a device may suffer from a bad ground and a loose connection along the positive side of the circuit. Two or more simultaneous problems are much harder to troubleshoot than a single problem.. If you are still stuck, keep reading about common problems and solutions, or consider turning the problem over to an expert. Common Problems. Common Solutions. Common Sense. This set of problems and solutions is common to most cars, and dealing with them doesn’t require a lot of specific electrical knowledge, just some common sense. Of course, these are very general and may not work for some specific makes and models. If these don’t work, consult a manual or an expert.. Dead Battery Charge the battery for at least one hour. Check for clean connections at the battery terminals, starter and grounds. Use the starter to crank the engine over five or six times. Attach a voltmeter to the battery and watch its reading as someone cranks the engine several times. The voltage should stay at 12 volts when the engine is not cranking. If the voltage drops below eight or nine volts while cranking, or the engine won’t crank any more, suspect the battery. If you suspect the battery, and it’s not very old, charge it longer and test it again. Slow Battery Drain If the battery is draining overnight or over the course of a few days, some device is still turned on and draining it. To find the cause, disconnect the negative battery connection. Use your test light to jump the negative battery cable to the negative post on the battery. If the light glows, something is turned on. Disconnect fuses and/or circuits one by one until the light goes out. Trace the circuit that was causing the light to glow to find which device is still on. Dome lights, trunk lights, alternators, and non-factory accessory circuits are common causes of such drains. Radio memories and dash clocks usually are not drains and will not make the light glow for this test. Alternator Over- or Undercharging Attach a voltmeter to a good ground and a good positive lead. (Usually, the battery works best for this.) With the engine switched off, the battery voltage should read 12 volts. With the engine running, the voltage should read 13.5 to 14.5 volts. Below 13.5 volts usually signals a non-working charging circuit. Check for a tight belt, and clean connections at the alternator and the battery. Also make sure the engine is properly grounded. Above 14.5 volts usually signals a bad voltage regulator. Either way, the solution is usually a new or rebuilt alternator. Crank Starter, Everything Goes Dead Sometimes everything will seem just fine until you crank the starter, then nothing will work, not even the dome light. Starting with the battery terminals, remove them and give them a good cleaning. Then clean the ground strap to the body and to the engine. Then clean the positive connection to the starter. One or more of these connections is corroded. The load of the starter causes arcing at the corroded connection, which weakens the connection. Since these connections are the main power connection for the whole car, they shut everything else down when they get too weak. Sticking Heater, Accelerator, Clutch, or Choke Cables What does this have to do with electrical problems? Plenty. If the engine ground strap goes bad, the engine will seek another ground through these cables. Often, the car will run and start just fine. Over time, however, these cables will melt themselves to their housings. Replace the affected cables and clean or replace the engine ground strap. Dim Headlight Sometimes, one or both headlights will be dim. One of the headlights has a bad ground and is grounding itself through the other headlight. In doing so, the headlights change the wiring configuration from parallel to series. When wired in series, they each share half the voltage and glow dimly. Clean or replace the ground(s). Brake Lights Turn off Taillights This is a variation on the dim headlight problem. A bad ground is causing the brake lights to ground themselves through the taillight circuit and vice-versa. Clean up the grounds, and everything will work fine. Turn Signal Problems When a bulb burns out, most turn signals will either flash quickly or not at all. Sometimes, they do so even though all bulbs appear to be working. Other times, they may flash, but very slowly. If both left and right circuits act the same, suspect the flasher unit or the switch. If only one side has a problem, corrosion is at work. The solution is to first check and clean all the grounds, which often requires removing lamp assemblies to clean the bolts and attachment points with a wire brush. Sometimes, the base of a bulb will corrode, and simply replacing the bulb will solve the problem. Other times, the bulb socket is corroded and should be cleaned. Blown Fuse Finding the cause of a blown fuse can be difficult. A component in the circuit is either dead-shorted to ground, or is causing too much load on the circuit. If something is dead-shorted, fuses will blow the instant they are replaced and the circuit is turned on. Physically search the wiring in the circuit, then disconnect components attached to the circuit one by one until you find the short. If something is generating too much load, the diagnosis is similar, but more difficult. Try to isolate any device on the circuit and see if its use blows the fuse. If you still don’t find the problem, check a manual or consult an expert for testing each device and ensure each device is in spec. Intermittent Problems Intermittent problems are the hardest to solve. If you can’t get the problem to happen while you’re looking for it, shake the car or the wiring harness and see if that causes it. Loose or corroded connections are common causes for intermittent problems and such shaking will often bring them about. If you still can’t solve it, call in an expert. Wiring Additional Circuits First and foremost, follow the accessory manufacturer’s instructions.. However, many instructions suggest wiring directly to the battery to ensure a good power supply. Avoid this if possible. First see if there is an available accessory circuit in the factory wiring that can handle the necessary current. Many factory systems have extra accessory circuits and fuses built in for owners to expand. If you still want to wire directly to the battery, make sure you have a fusible link, fuse, or circuit breaker as close to the battery as possible. Also, avoid the self-resetting circuit breakers since they may reset before you know there is a problem.
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#6. =?big5?B?UmWhRyBbRTM2TTNdIDE4IiBXaGVlbHM=?= - from Teddy Lam
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Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2007 02:17:36 -0800 (PST) From: Teddy Lam <teddy080799@yahoo.com.hk> Subject: =?big5?B?UmWhRyBbRTM2TTNdIDE4IiBXaGVlbHM=?= Hi Dude, If money is not a concern, you may consider purchasing forged wheels from them: http://www.eisenhaus.com/main.php Their Magnesium-made wheels are the lightest....even lighter than genuine forged T6 aluminium wheels. For more budget buy, you may also consider a set of CE28N. Its pretty common here (I am from Hong Kong) and it weights under 15lbs for a 18" wheel.... Here is a website that I always look at for reference of wheel weights: http://www.wheelweights.net/ Cheers, Teddy ----- l ---- HHR "debuhr@comcast.net" <debuhr@comcast.net> H E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> ǰeR 2007 ~ 1 27 P W 7:54:35 DDG Re: [E36M3] 18" Wheels Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2007 23:50:20 +0000 From: debuhr@comcast.net Subject: Re: [E36M3] 18" Wheels I didn't have a chance to weight mine as they had some tires mounted when I bought them, But my understanding is that the RGRs are on the lighter side at about 18lbs and they are very strong. Dave RGR 18x8.5 ET38 Diamond Black... -------------- Original message ---------------------- From: Bill Sharp <M3@cueframe.us> > Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2007 17:12:02 -0600 > From: Bill Sharp <M3@cueframe.us> > Subject: 18" Wheels > > Chris, > > Would you say the RG-R's are lightweight or medium? > > My sense is, light would be in the 18 lb area and medium the low 20's. > > Would that be fair or is 18 way too light and something in the low > 20's is a strong, lighter wheel. > > Now that I think of it, I've only bought wheels for bicycles and know > that light ones are good for a straight line and no bumps but crumple > pretty easily when you hit a hole. > > The wheels for cars are a lot less expensive, but does the analogy hold? > > I wouldn't want something too light for street use? > > > Bill > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www..bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm ************************************************* _______________________________________ YM - uT NASWAABͤiHdUTAAAWɴNߧYݨAܳNC http://messenger.yahoo.com.hk
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#7. M50tu - S52 clutch interchange? - from bnmhead-bmw@yahoo.com
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Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2007 08:38:19 -0800 (PST) From: <bnmhead-bmw@yahoo.com> Subject: M50tu - S52 clutch interchange? I'm currently looking for a M3 sedan, but the clutch on my current 325i is starting to go. IIRC correctly, the flywheel\clutch assembly between these two won't interchange, right? The reason I ask (hoping I'm wrong & they will interchange) is that I'm planning on a twinscrew supercharger for the M3 and would be putting in a UUC flywheel\M5 clutch combo - if they'll interchange, maybe I can limp this clutch along until I find my M3 and then just pop in the old clutch from the M3 into the 325i. If they won't, then no sense waiting, I'll just go ahead & pick up a new clutch for the 325i & put it in. Thanks!
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#8. Re: [E36M3] M50tu - S52 clutch interchange? - from Chester Wong
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Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2007 08:51:42 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] M50tu - S52 clutch interchange? I think if you change out the flywheel, clutch disc and pressure plate, it'll work. You might need even need to swap the slave cylinders if you follow the typical UUC recommended hack to get the pedal feel back with the stock E34M5 pressure plate. Chester --- bnmhead-bmw@yahoo.com wrote: > I'm currently looking for a M3 sedan, but the clutch on my current 325i is > starting to go. IIRC correctly, the flywheel\clutch assembly between these > two won't interchange, right? > > The reason I ask (hoping I'm wrong & they will interchange) is that I'm > planning on a twinscrew supercharger for the M3 and would be putting in a UUC > flywheel\M5 clutch combo - if they'll interchange, maybe I can limp this > clutch along until I find my M3 and then just pop in the old clutch from the > M3 into the 325i. If they won't, then no sense waiting, I'll just go ahead & > pick up a new clutch for the 325i & put it in.
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#9. Re: [E36M3] 18" Wheels - from Steven Hazard
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Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2007 18:43:11 -0500 From: "Steven Hazard" <98M3@comcast.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] 18" Wheels CCW's are heavy. Great value, but heavy. The owner is a great guy, and Bob Tunnell pointed me his way....Bob's SCCA SM M3 runs the CCW's rims I believe in the 18x10.5" size. I have their 18x10" rims with 285/30/18 Kumho 710's mounted on all 4 corners. RimPro (one of my sponsers) has been trying to manufacturer ultra light rims from a Co in China. I hefted a prototype over the summer and it was ligher than anything I had seen before in that size. I haven't talked with him in the off season, but will see where he's in the production process. It was a nightmare if I recall with the cultural & language issues getting things right. Steve Boston Chapter BMWCCA -------------------- 1 -------------------- Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2007 16:08:40 -0500 From: <cteague@cox.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] 18" Wheels Bill, BBS RCJ's are no longer sold. SSR went bankrupt, and has very few wheels left. I don't know if they will start making them again. CCW's are made to order from www.ccwheel.com The CCWs are a little heavier than the BBS RCJs, but you can get them in any size or offset pretty much. It's hard to find light E36 wheels right now. Chris > I can't seem to find RCJ's, SSR's or CCW's to see what they look like > and see the weight.
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#10. Broken exhaust manifold studs - from Mo Karamat
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Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2007 23:07:14 -0500 From: Mo Karamat <karamatm@optonline.net> Subject: Broken exhaust manifold studs Larry, Hello. I am a little unclear on your post. If you are referring to the 3 studs that connect the exhaust manifold to the down pipe, then yes these are studs, and when broken, can be knocked out of the flanges. (There are little threads that hold them into the flanges) Yes the replacement parts are not studs, but DISGUSTINGLY expensive bolts. Beautifully made out of some alien material.. Some of these studs broke on the exhaust on my race car last season. If you are referring to the exhaust studs in the manifold, then the replacement part is still a stud. I have not had this happen yet, but I did read on another list that someone had this same problem. Not sure what it is worth, but He said that a mechanic told him that if he heated up the exhaust stud, and touched it with a candle, that the heated metal would draw the wax into the threads, and lubricate them, making them easy to remove.. (Voodoo Magic??) No idea if it will work, but may be worth a try.. Good luck! Mo -------------------- 4 -------------------- Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2007 10:14:45 -0500 From: "Lawrence Barbieri" <larry@logicalconclusions.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Broken exhaust manifold studs Bill, Thanks! I feel a little better. Yea, I heard about the BMW replacements, specifically that they were not studs anymore, but bolts, and that they cost something like $15-$20 each!! Yikes! So, it sounds like you ended up drilling yours out? Were able to manage this with the manifold attached to the car? (Because the thought of removing that only scares the daylights out of me, 12 more chances to break off a stud, this time in the head!). Did you use any special type of drill bit, cobalt perhaps? Any tips or experiences you had while drilling them out would be appreciated, like what size bit you started with, how hard is the material? Stuff like that. Already got all the copper nuts ready to go. I was doing this for 2 reasons. 1) I was replacing my guibo, which I did manage to finish and 2) I'm installing a new UUC RSC36 exhaust. Thanks!!!! - Larry