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#1. Head gasket - wiring - from Mark Duckworth
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Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2007 23:31:17 -0500 From: Mark Duckworth <mdlkml@atari-source.com> Subject: Head gasket - wiring Hello guys, Working on a 1996 OBDII M3 here, I seem to have gotten myself into a little pickle when trying to trace wires for this job. I'm just trying to organize and gather my ducks in a row and I seem to have lost a wire. I am 100% sure on the connection of the ASC being very short and extending from near the fuse box. I'm 99% sure there's a lone 3 prong connector that goes to the throttle body (TPS?) from under the intake manifold I'm 80% sure that the wire set that is a Y split and goes to a 2 prong male and 2 prong female connects to the end of the fuel injector harness and the VANOS actuator. Can anyone verify? I'm 70% sure the lone rubber sheathed 2 prong female wire connects to the sensor inside the intake manifold (IAT sensor?). Can anyone verify? The real question here is that I seem to have lost the 3 prong wire that goes to the silver cylinder (motor?) attached to the bottom of the intake manifold. Can anyone suggest where this wire would be coming from so I can trace it and put it back where it needs to be. I am 100% sure on the connections of knock sensor, crankshaft and camshaft position sensor and what is I think a temperature sensor in the side of the cylinder head, so I can't have any of those switched around. I had everything all orderly and then I had to move around the wiring for the VANOS oil supply line, knock and crankshaft position sensors. Oops. All the stuff I am mostly sure of is from referencing my pictures. Thanks, Mark
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#2. Re: M50tu - S52 clutch interchange? - from Rob Levinson * UUC Motorwerks
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Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2007 09:56:02 -0500 From: "Rob Levinson * UUC Motorwerks" <rob@shortshifter.com> Subject: Re: M50tu - S52 clutch interchange? > From: <bnmhead-bmw@yahoo.com> > Subject: M50tu - S52 clutch interchange? > The reason I ask (hoping I'm wrong & they will interchange) > is that I'm planning on a twinscrew supercharger for the M3 > and would be putting in a UUC flywheel\M5 clutch combo - if they'll > interchange, maybe I can limp this clutch along until I find my M3 > and then just pop in the old clutch from the M3 into the 325i. > If they won't, then no sense waiting, I'll just go ahead & pick up a > new clutch for the 325i & put it in. The clutch itself will not interchange, but the entire flywheel and clutch combination will. You can transfer your entire original M3 flywheel, clutch, and should also transfer the slave cylinder into your 325i. That will work perfectly fine. > From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> > You might need even need to swap the slave cylinders if you follow the > typical UUC recommended hack to get the pedal feel back with the stock E34M5 > pressure plate. With the M3, when switching to the M5 clutch conversion setup, installing the 325 slave is the ideal re-orientation of geniune BMW parts. Because the M5 clutch has different geometry (deeper pressure plate allows better leverage, therefore less pedal effort _and_ more clamping force), the M5 uses a lower-volume slave for less hydraulic assist. The 325 slave happens to match the volume of the M5 slave exactly, so it normalizes pedal effort. For the person asking the original question, his situation works out beautifully... simply swapping all the M3 parts he won't be using into his 325i, and save the 325i slave for the M3 when it gets the M5 clutch. - Rob
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#3. Re: M50tu - S52 clutch interchange? - from Neil Maller
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Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2007 10:03:56 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: M50tu - S52 clutch interchange? on 1/30/07 11:24 PM, <bnmhead-bmw@yahoo.com> wrote: > I'm currently looking for a M3 sedan, but the clutch on my current 325i is > starting to go. IIRC correctly, the flywheel\clutch assembly between these two > won't interchange, right? The 328 and M3 both have 240mm diameter clutch/pressure plate/flywheel sets. Your 325i is 225mm, so you can't swap the parts piecemeal. I imagine you could retrofit the entire M3 assembly though, and I seem to recall that this is a known swap. However the M3 flywheel would likely have much higher inertia. Neil Fort Wayne, IN 96 M3 - Bastard child 03 525iT - Sterling Grey Metallic 05 Mini - Cooper S with LSD
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#4. 1995 M3 - starter problems - from gary.preece@insightbb.com
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Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2007 18:44:08 -0500 From: gary.preece@insightbb.com Subject: 1995 M3 - starter problems Hey Guys, My starter works fine some times, but others it sounds like it is grinding or slipping. I am assuming it is the starter only. What effect would a bad selenoid have? Just clicking? Definitely replace both? Suggestions? I am thinking I should go ahead and replace the starter and selenoid. My engine has 205K on it and 12 and 1/2 years, although it was rebuilt 15K ago. Anyone done this and have some tips? Thanks, Gary Preece Louisville, KY
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#5. Re: [E36M3] 1995 M3 - starter problems - from Chester Wong
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Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2007 16:09:07 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] 1995 M3 - starter problems Getting to the starter is a PITA. I assume when you had the engine rebuilt, you had the clutch replaced as well, right? I've only removed the starter when dropping the tranny which meant that the cat back exhaust, cats, driveshaft, tranny brace, x-brace, bitch of a clip, shift carrier, etc were all removed and the engine was tilted to allow me to get to the bolts up top. I'm not sure how accessible the bolts are from the bottom without the engine being tilted. The other thing you have to consider is the '95s prolly have the whole starter bolts with separate nuts deal, which I heard is a huge PITA. In contrast, my '99 has the threads in the starter housing so there's no need to hold a nut on the other side to tighten. The only other option is to hit it from the top, but that would mean (I think) removing the air intake plenum and even then, I'm not sure how easy it would be to get at the starter. Of course, I'm just talking out of my ass about accessing the starter from the top as I've never had to do it that way. Other than that, I'm not really sure what your problem is. If the solenoid is failed, then the pinion would never advance to hit the ring gear on the flywheel. If the pinon advances, there are ramps that make sure the pinion positively engages the ring gear. I know...not too helpful.... Chester --- gary.preece@insightbb.com wrote: > My starter works fine some times, but others it sounds like it is grinding or > slipping. I am assuming it is the starter only. What effect would a bad > selenoid have? Just clicking? Definitely replace both? Suggestions? > > I am thinking I should go ahead and replace the starter and selenoid. My > engine has 205K on it and 12 and 1/2 years, although it was rebuilt 15K ago. > Anyone done this and have some tips?
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#6. Re: Broken exhaust manifold studs - from Matt Weimer
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Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2007 16:15:10 -0800 (PST) From: Matt Weimer <mjweimer@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: Broken exhaust manifold studs Hello Larry, I had the same problem when removing my exhaust center section and managed to remove the broken stud without drilling or removing the manifolds from the car. After repeated heating and shots of Kano Kroil (great stuff - http://www.kanolabs.com/) I used the appropriate sized extractor as seen here: http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2364506&cp=&pg=2&sr=1&origkw=extractor&kw=extractor&parentPage=search&searchId=20302658332 Item # 2136638 if you go to the home page. I used a large MAPP gas torch to get everything red hot, shooting the penetrant and allowing time for everything to cool between beatings.. I did this over the course of two days and had no luck until I used the extractor set, I am sure the cycles of heat and cool helped a great deal and I heated the stud slightly before attempting removal. If you have access to a welder, you could weld a nut to the end of the stud, heat and use a socket to remove. I had to do this along with an Oxyacetylene torch to remove the lower strut mounting bolt on my front spindle assembly (all the while trying to keep too much heat out of the wheel bearing area). The PO apparently used red loctite on this bolt and it sheared *flush* to the spindle housing upon attempted removal. It was almost an expensive day. Good luck. Matt Weimer -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Lawrence Barbieri" <larry@logicalconclusions.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Broken exhaust manifold studs Bill, Thanks! I feel a little better. Yea, I heard about the BMW replacements, specifically that they were not studs anymore, but bolts, and that they cost something like $15-$20 each!! Yikes! So, it sounds like you ended up drilling yours out? Were able to manage this with the manifold attached to the car? (Because the thought of removing that only scares the daylights out of me, 12 more chances to break off a stud, this time in the head!). Did you use any special type of drill bit, cobalt perhaps? Any tips or experiences you had while drilling them out would be appreciated, like what size bit you started with, how hard is the material? Stuff like that. Already got all the copper nuts ready to go. I was doing this for 2 reasons. 1) I was replacing my guibo, which I did manage to finish and 2) I'm installing a new UUC RSC36 exhaust. Thanks!!!! - Larry ____________________________________________________________________________________ Finding fabulous fares is fun. Let Yahoo! FareChase search your favorite travel sites to find flight and hotel bargains. http://farechase.yahoo.com/promo-generic-14795097
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#7. RE: [e36m3] [E36M3] Head gasket - wiring - from Marco
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Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2007 16:18:07 -0800 From: "Marco" <m3driver@iname.com> Subject: RE: [e36m3] [E36M3] Head gasket - wiring FWIW usually the connectors can only go on one way - meaning while it may be a two wire connector the male and female parts are keyed such that you can't put the wrong male on a female. At least on my OBD I car they are like that. There were one or two that I actually needed to break out the wiring diagram and decode the colors to make sure I was hooking the right male up the right female. That cylinder you speak of is more than likely the ICV. I think the connector for that comes off the same loom as the one the connector that goes to the oil pressure light sender. Marco -----Original Message----- From: Mark Duckworth [mailto:mdlkml@atari-source.com] Sent: Tuesday, January 30, 2007 8:35 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [e36m3] [E36M3] Head gasket - wiring Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2007 23:31:17 -0500 From: Mark Duckworth <mdlkml@atari-source.com> Subject: Head gasket - wiring Hello guys, Working on a 1996 OBDII M3 here, I seem to have gotten myself into a little pickle when trying to trace wires for this job. I'm just trying to organize and gather my ducks in a row and I seem to have lost a wire. I am 100% sure on the connection of the ASC being very short and extending from near the fuse box. I'm 99% sure there's a lone 3 prong connector that goes to the throttle body (TPS?) from under the intake manifold I'm 80% sure that the wire set that is a Y split and goes to a 2 prong male and 2 prong female connects to the end of the fuel injector harness and the VANOS actuator. Can anyone verify? I'm 70% sure the lone rubber sheathed 2 prong female wire connects to the sensor inside the intake manifold (IAT sensor?). Can anyone verify? The real question here is that I seem to have lost the 3 prong wire that goes to the silver cylinder (motor?) attached to the bottom of the intake manifold. Can anyone suggest where this wire would be coming from so I can trace it and put it back where it needs to be. I am 100% sure on the connections of knock sensor, crankshaft and camshaft position sensor and what is I think a temperature sensor in the side of the cylinder head, so I can't have any of those switched around. I had everything all orderly and then I had to move around the wiring for the VANOS oil supply line, knock and crankshaft position sensors. Oops. All the stuff I am mostly sure of is from referencing my pictures. Thanks, Mark ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm ************************************************* -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.17.12/654 - Release Date: 1/27/2007 5:02 PM
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#8. LTW Wheels - from jeffrey Lin
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Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2007 17:03:34 -0800 (PST) From: jeffrey Lin <jeffreywlin@yahoo.com> Subject: LTW Wheels another option for LTW wheels....try Diffsonline.com. Dan Fitzgerald has ordered a huge batch of <17lbs.17x9s for a price of $259. I personally prefer CCW, not the lighest, but strong, easy to fix and no issues with backordered or discountinued wheels.
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#9. Re: [E36M3] 1995 M3 - starter problems - from Mark Duckworth
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Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2007 21:57:18 -0500 From: Mark Duckworth <mdlkml@atari-source.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] 1995 M3 - starter problems While I am not attempting to get at the starter, I have my intake manifold off and I can tell you it looks like it would be pretty easy to get to that way. My impression is that assuming you could get the wrenches in there, it'd be much easier to approach it top down. Less to remove, less of it is heavy and less under the car-ness. Just my $0.02. Then again I'm speaking as someone who knows how to get the intake manifold off now, and not how to get the transmission out. Thanks, Mark On Wed, 2007-01-31 at 18:14 -0600, Chester Wong wrote: > Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2007 16:09:07 -0800 (PST) > From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] 1995 M3 - starter problems > > Getting to the starter is a PITA. I assume when you had the engine rebuilt, > you had the clutch replaced as well, right? I've only removed the starter when > dropping the tranny which meant that the cat back exhaust, cats, driveshaft, > tranny brace, x-brace, bitch of a clip, shift carrier, etc were all removed and > the engine was tilted to allow me to get to the bolts up top. I'm not sure how > accessible the bolts are from the bottom without the engine being tilted. The > other thing you have to consider is the '95s prolly have the whole starter > bolts with separate nuts deal, which I heard is a huge PITA. In contrast, my > '99 has the threads in the starter housing so there's no need to hold a nut on > the other side to tighten. The only other option is to hit it from the top, > but that would mean (I think) removing the air intake plenum and even then, I'm > not sure how easy it would be to get at the starter. Of course, I'm just > talking out of my ass about accessing the starter from the top as I've never > had to do it that way. > > Other than that, I'm not really sure what your problem is. If the solenoid is > failed, then the pinion would never advance to hit the ring gear on the > flywheel. If the pinon advances, there are ramps that make sure the pinion > positively engages the ring gear. > > I know...not too helpful.... > > Chester > > --- gary.preece@insightbb.com wrote: > > My starter works fine some times, but others it sounds like it is grinding or > > slipping. I am assuming it is the starter only. What effect would a bad > > selenoid have? Just clicking? Definitely replace both? Suggestions? > > > > I am thinking I should go ahead and replace the starter and selenoid. My > > engine has 205K on it and 12 and 1/2 years, although it was rebuilt 15K ago. > > Anyone done this and have some tips? > > > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > >
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#10. Re: [E36M3] 1995 M3 - starter problems - from David Thomas
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Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2007 19:24:12 -0800 From: David Thomas <dave@sasdatalink.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] 1995 M3 - starter problems On Wednesday 31 January 2007 7:04 pm, Mark Duckworth wrote: > While I am not attempting to get at the starter, I have my intake > manifold off and I can tell you it looks like it would be pretty easy to > get to that way. My impression is that assuming you could get the > wrenches in there, it'd be much easier to approach it top down. Less to > remove, less of it is heavy and less under the car-ness. Just my $0.02. > Then again I'm speaking as someone who knows how to get the intake > manifold off now, and not how to get the transmission out. I might remove the intake manifold to get to the starter as well. I find the intake manifold on these cars to be very easy to remove...easiest I have ever wrenched on. I know the later years have more plumbing, but its a really quick job on the 95's. Dave