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#1. Re: 1995 M3 - starter problems - from Neil Maller
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Date: Fri, 02 Feb 2007 14:15:24 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: 1995 M3 - starter problems on 2/2/07 1:34 PM, "Jamie Howton" <jhowton@gmail.com> wrote: > On my 95, the starter is held on by two of the transmission mounting > bolts. I cannot see how you would be able to remove it from the top > at all. It's a bit counterintuitive, but once the intake manifold is off you can see that the bellhousing to engine interface is far enough forward into the engine compartment that the starter bolts can be removed while working from above. If the intake manifold is in place there is no way to remove the starter that's also easy. I think I recall a post from Brett Anderson a few years ago saying that he was able to do it by reaching under the intake and working blind. Yeah, good luck with that one... Neil Fort Wayne, IN 96 M3 - Bastard child 03 525iT - Sterling Grey Metallic 05 Mini - Cooper S with LSD
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Re: 1995 M3 - starter problems - from Gary
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Date: Fri, 2 Feb 2007 13:45:09 -0600 From: "Gary" <probikeguy@probikeusa.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: 1995 M3 - starter problems From above....I have a guys car apart now and cannot get to the started bolts from above...More like they have been overtightend so badly I can't budge them.. Gary Doing starters suck.. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Neil Maller" <neil.maller@gte.net> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Friday, February 02, 2007 1:24 PM Subject: [E36M3] Re: 1995 M3 - starter problems > Date: Fri, 02 Feb 2007 14:15:24 -0500 > From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> > Subject: Re: 1995 M3 - starter problems > > on 2/2/07 1:34 PM, "Jamie Howton" <jhowton@gmail.com> wrote: > >> On my 95, the starter is held on by two of the transmission mounting >> bolts. I cannot see how you would be able to remove it from the top >> at all. > > It's a bit counterintuitive, but once the intake manifold is off you can > see > that the bellhousing to engine interface is far enough forward into the > engine compartment that the starter bolts can be removed while working > from > above. > > If the intake manifold is in place there is no way to remove the starter > that's also easy. I think I recall a post from Brett Anderson a few years > ago saying that he was able to do it by reaching under the intake and > working blind. Yeah, good luck with that one... > > Neil > Fort Wayne, IN > 96 M3 - Bastard child > 03 525iT - Sterling Grey Metallic > 05 Mini - Cooper S with LSD > > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > >
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Re: 1995 M3 - starter problems - from Kent Shephard
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Date: Fri, 2 Feb 2007 11:53:49 -0800 From: Kent Shephard <Kents@kls-consulting.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: 1995 M3 - starter problems Hi, The intake can't be worse than an E30 M3 with must be removed to change PS hoses or the starter. I've never done a starter from below on cars I've owned (Toyotas, 77 530i, E30 M3). A starter should not be an all day job. But then, I haven't had to do one on my E36 either. Kent Shephard kents@kshephard.com On Feb 2, 2007, at 11:24 AM, Neil Maller wrote: > Date: Fri, 02 Feb 2007 14:15:24 -0500 > From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> > Subject: Re: 1995 M3 - starter problems > > on 2/2/07 1:34 PM, "Jamie Howton" <jhowton@gmail.com> wrote: > >> On my 95, the starter is held on by two of the transmission mounting >> bolts. I cannot see how you would be able to remove it from the top >> at all. > > It's a bit counterintuitive, but once the intake manifold is off > you can see > that the bellhousing to engine interface is far enough forward into > the > engine compartment that the starter bolts can be removed while > working from > above. > > If the intake manifold is in place there is no way to remove the > starter > that's also easy. I think I recall a post from Brett Anderson a few > years > ago saying that he was able to do it by reaching under the intake and > working blind. Yeah, good luck with that one... > > Neil > Fort Wayne, IN > 96 M3 - Bastard child > 03 525iT - Sterling Grey Metallic > 05 Mini - Cooper S with LSD > > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > >
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#4. Re: 1995 M3 - starter problems - from Neil Maller
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Date: Fri, 02 Feb 2007 15:01:38 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: 1995 M3 - starter problems on 2/2/07 2:45 PM, Gary at probikeguy@probikeusa.com wrote: > From above....I have a guys car apart now and cannot get to the started > bolts from above...More like they have been overtightend so badly I can't > budge them. Those bolts can be really hard to break free. Nonetheless, removal from above with the intake manifold off is the standard method. Like I said, standard, but not necessarily easy... As a digression, the E46 uses aluminum bolts to hold the transmission to the engine. WTF? To help avoid galvanic corrosion and stuck bolts? Me, I'd be scared spitless about breaking a bolt or rounding off the heads. > Doing starters suck. Got that right. When mine failed it was under warranty - yay! Then the next time I had to remove it was while doing the clutch, so I had the engine tilted and all that other stuff out of the way anyhow. Neil Fort Wayne, IN 96 M3 - Bastard child 03 525iT - Sterling Grey Metallic 05 Mini - Cooper S with LSD
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Re: 1995 M3 - starter problems - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Fri, 2 Feb 2007 12:15:41 -0800 (PST) From: "Jim Bassett" <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: 1995 M3 - starter problems On Fri, February 2, 2007 12:04 pm, Neil Maller said: > Got that right. When mine failed it was under warranty - yay! <Napoleon Dynamite> Lucky! </Napoleon Dynamite> :-) Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4 - starter replaced on own dime (lots of them, actually :-)) 1993 325is #44 JP
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#6. carfax - from Vince Leo
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Date: Fri, 2 Feb 2007 12:17:51 -0800 (PST) From: Vince Leo <m332is@yahoo.com> Subject: carfax Hi all, anyone have a carfax open? 97 M3 WBSBG9323VEY74982 Thanks, Vince --------------------------------- Never Miss an Email Stay connected with Yahoo! Mail on your mobile. Get started!
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#7. Success ( was Broken exhaust manifold studs) - from Lawrence J. Barbieri
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Date: Fri, 2 Feb 2007 23:36:44 -0500 From: "Lawrence J. Barbieri" <larry@logicalconclusions.com> Subject: Success ( was Broken exhaust manifold studs) Hello everyone, First let me thank all of you that responded and encouraged me through this ordeal. In the end, nothing would break the bond on the threads. Those puppies were basically welded in there. I tried heat, no luck. I tried the broken bolt extractors from Sears, nope (and a side note, I'm not too happy with those at all, the insides actually stripped before I could get any bite on the stud. I may take advantage of that Craftsman lifetime guarantee). I finally resolved to drill them out. I went to "The Orange Temple" and picked up a set of titanium drill bits from 1/16" to 3/8". I heated the stud up to cherry red and tapped it flat with a hammer. Then reheated it and used a center punch to make a starter spot for the drill. I started with 1/8" and bored right through the remaining stud. I then moved up in size. Once I had a decent size hole through it I tried one last time to twist it out with vise grips...no go. So, I worked my way all the way up to 3/8". Then I took an M10x1.5 tap and ran it into the hole. There were some threads left and the tap aligned itself with those threads and did a really nice job of cleaning out the hole. Once that was done I ran an M10 bolt in there to see how it seated itself and it was perfect. Tomorrow I will try to get the replacement studs. If I can't get the original parts I'll hit the hardware store and pick up a stainless M10 bolt and cut the head off and make my own stud. All I need to do is put some kind of stop in the middle to keep it from running all the way through the manifold flange. I could possibly get a friend to put a small weld on it as a stop. The other option I considered was red loctite. Any other ideas will be gladly accepted. I'm just glad the hard part is over! Larry Lawrence Barbieri Logical Conclusions 96 Blanchette Dr. Marlborough, MA 01752 larry@logicalconclusions.com 508.480.9056 -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.17.19/663 - Release Date: 2/1/2007 2:28 PM
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Retainers, Cams, and....? - from carguy
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Date: Sat, 3 Feb 2007 09:24:22 -0500 From: carguy <carguymb@aol.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Retainers, Cams, and....? I have the Sunbelts, and am generally not a happy camper. Professionally installed (and checked), with the off-the-shelf programming that's part of the Bimmerworld kit, there's a nasty 25hp dip in hp and torque right around 5,000-5,500 revs (I have the dyno chart to show it). While the absolute hp is higher (but nothing like 300hp on my car; closer to 270 at the crank), the messed up output curves make on-track performance little different. For example, I drive on the big track at Summit Point quite often. If we assume that the final turn onto the long front straight is a control to my speed entering the straight (cornering speed would be the same, irrespective of horsepower), then a more powerful car should achieve a measurably faster top end in what's essentially a drag race, assuming all other things being equal. However, with the engine work being the only substantive change, the car was essentially no faster, based on maximum speed as noted at the at the braking point (and no, I don't lift until I brake). By contrast, I jumped into a student's E46 M3, with no engine mods, and was instantly 10mph faster down the straight, without even trying.... (i.e. it's not my driving that's the problem) FWIW, the car also has fan delete, underdrive pulleys, shorty headers (also from Bimmerworld and installed at the same time), ported and polished head and cat-back UCC exhaust. The baseline, prior to the cams, was the fan delete, underdrive pulleys, Conforti chip and K&N cone filter. If we assume (a dangerous thing to do, I know) say 250hp at the crank as the baseline (I don't have a dyno reading; these mods occurred after a head gasket issue at VIR), then a lot of parts, work and money netted me 20hp at the top end, but a 5hp reduction in the meat of the rev range.... I don't think I'm alone in having this problem. From what I've read on various boards, to make the Sunbelts work properly, you will often need to do some combination of futz with the cam timing and get a custom-programmed chip, and spend a lot of time on the dyno. I've spent a lot of money already on this "upgrade", and from a practical perspective ended up exactly where I started. And to get close to advertised numbers, I'll likely have to dump a bunch more money with the someone like Chuck Stickley to get it all to work as advertised. I'm not dissing James and Bimmerworld; they're good people, with this exception I'm a satisfied customer, and I still buy stuff there, but let's just politely say that, in my experience, estimates of the performance from the Sunbelt cams have been greatly exaggerated. Martin Bullen '95 M3 '97 Z3 2.8 '01 740i Sport On Feb 2, 2007, at 1:34 PM, E36M3 wrote: > Question: any comparisons out there between the Schrick and Sunbelt > cams? > I'm inclined to go with the Schricks, they've been around longer > and seemed > to have stood the test of time, but the good folks at BimmerWorld > (I'm a > satisfied customer) claim the Sunbelt cams are the shizz. Opinions, > please.
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#9. WTB ECU for 96+ M3 Manual - from Ivan Petrov
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Date: Sat, 3 Feb 2007 17:26:18 -0800 From: "Ivan Petrov" <crazyinp@hotmail.com> Subject: WTB ECU for 96+ M3 Manual I am looking for extra ECU for 96+ M3 manual Does anyone have one for sale? Thanks Ivan
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#10. FS: 1995 M3 - from Tucker Ryals
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Date: Sun, 4 Feb 2007 14:26:15 -0800 (PST) From: Tucker Ryals <tuckerryals@yahoo.com> Subject: FS: 1995 M3 It's official. My car is for sale. All of the details can be found here. http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=676299 I'm anxious to sell, so please talk it up with any friends who might be in the market. Thanks, Tucker ____________________________________________________________________________________ Need Mail bonding? Go to the Yahoo! Mail Q&A for great tips from Yahoo! Answers users. http://answers.yahoo.com/dir/?link=list&sid=396546091