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#1. Sunbelt Cams - from Patrick Kelly
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Date: Mon, 5 Feb 2007 09:37:55 -0500 From: "Patrick Kelly" <pkelly@agincourtcapital.com> Subject: Sunbelt Cams Wow Martin, this is not good. I was "this close" to ordering the Sunbelts... Could this be attributed to an improperly timed VANOS? I thought the Sunbelts and the chip were all sorted out. I would love to hear from somebody from Bimmerworld on this. Pat Kelly 95M3 pkelly@agincourtcapital.com > -------------------- 8 -------------------- > Date: Sat, 3 Feb 2007 09:24:22 -0500 > From: carguy <carguymb@aol.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Retainers, Cams, and....? > > I have the Sunbelts, and am generally not a happy camper. > Professionally installed (and checked), with the off-the-shelf > programming that's part of the Bimmerworld kit, there's a nasty 25hp > dip in hp and torque right around 5,000-5,500 revs (I have the dyno > chart to show it). While the absolute hp is higher (but nothing like > 300hp on my car; closer to 270 at the crank), the messed up output > curves make on-track performance little different. For example, I > drive on the big track at Summit Point quite often. If we assume > that the final turn onto the long front straight is a control to my > speed entering the straight (cornering speed would be the same, > irrespective of horsepower), then a more powerful car should achieve > a measurably faster top end in what's essentially a drag race, > assuming all other things being equal. However, with the engine work > being the only substantive change, the car was essentially no faster, > based on maximum speed as noted at the at the braking point (and no, > I don't lift until I brake). By contrast, I jumped into a student's > E46 M3, with no engine mods, and was instantly 10mph faster down the > straight, without even trying.... (i.e. it's not my driving that's > the problem) > > FWIW, the car also has fan delete, underdrive pulleys, shorty headers > (also from Bimmerworld and installed at the same time), ported and > polished head and cat-back UCC exhaust. The baseline, prior to the > cams, was the fan delete, underdrive pulleys, Conforti chip and K&N > cone filter. If we assume (a dangerous thing to do, I know) say > 250hp at the crank as the baseline (I don't have a dyno reading; > these mods occurred after a head gasket issue at VIR), then a lot of > parts, work and money netted me 20hp at the top end, but a 5hp > reduction in the meat of the rev range.... > > I don't think I'm alone in having this problem. From what I've read > on various boards, to make the Sunbelts work properly, you will often > need to do some combination of futz with the cam timing and get a > custom-programmed chip, and spend a lot of time on the dyno. I've > spent a lot of money already on this "upgrade", and from a practical > perspective ended up exactly where I started. And to get close to > advertised numbers, I'll likely have to dump a bunch more money with > the someone like Chuck Stickley to get it all to work as advertised. > > I'm not dissing James and Bimmerworld; they're good people, with this > exception I'm a satisfied customer, and I still buy stuff there, but > let's just politely say that, in my experience, estimates of the > performance from the Sunbelt cams have been greatly exaggerated. > > Martin Bullen > '95 M3 > '97 Z3 2.8 > '01 740i Sport > > On Feb 2, 2007, at 1:34 PM, E36M3 wrote: > > > Question: any comparisons out there between the Schrick and Sunbelt > > cams? > > I'm inclined to go with the Schricks, they've been around longer > > and seemed > > to have stood the test of time, but the good folks at BimmerWorld > > (I'm a > > satisfied customer) claim the Sunbelt cams are the shizz. Opinions, > > please.
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#2. Bimmerworld Roll Bar? - from William Townsend
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Date: Mon, 5 Feb 2007 11:31:02 -0500 From: "William Townsend" <wtownsend@juniper.net> Subject: Bimmerworld Roll Bar? Anyone out there have this roll bar in their M3? Not the whole cage. How did it fit? Did the harness bar line up correctly with the seat holes? (height wise) Is there a welded cross brace? Was the harness bar very far from the seatback? Looking into this for the upcoming season. Seats and harnesses are on order already. Thanks, --Bill 96 M3 coupe
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Sunbelt Cams - from Jon Siccardi - Treehouse
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Date: Mon, 5 Feb 2007 10:49:03 -0600 From: "Jon Siccardi - Treehouse" <jon@treehouseracing.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Sunbelt Cams Agreed. That dip in the graph looks like an S38 engine where the intake plenum physically changes inside - I really don't think it should be there on any M50 family motor. Jon ______________________________________________ Jon Siccardi - DM #053 #052- Retired TreehouseRacing.com M50conversion.com 615.333.9118 ______________________________________________ ----- Original Message ----- From: "Patrick Kelly" <pkelly@agincourtcapital.com> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Monday, February 05, 2007 8:44 AM Subject: [E36M3] Sunbelt Cams > Date: Mon, 5 Feb 2007 09:37:55 -0500 > From: "Patrick Kelly" <pkelly@agincourtcapital.com> > Subject: Sunbelt Cams > > Wow Martin, this is not good. I was "this close" to ordering the > Sunbelts... > > Could this be attributed to an improperly timed VANOS? I thought the > Sunbelts and the chip were all sorted out. > > I would love to hear from somebody from Bimmerworld on this. > > Pat Kelly > 95M3 > > pkelly@agincourtcapital.com > > >> -------------------- 8 -------------------- >> Date: Sat, 3 Feb 2007 09:24:22 -0500 >> From: carguy <carguymb@aol.com> >> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Retainers, Cams, and....? >> >> I have the Sunbelts, and am generally not a happy camper. >> Professionally installed (and checked), with the off-the-shelf >> programming that's part of the Bimmerworld kit, there's a nasty 25hp >> dip in hp and torque right around 5,000-5,500 revs (I have the dyno >> chart to show it). While the absolute hp is higher (but nothing like >> 300hp on my car; closer to 270 at the crank), the messed up output >> curves make on-track performance little different. For example, I >> drive on the big track at Summit Point quite often. If we assume >> that the final turn onto the long front straight is a control to my >> speed entering the straight (cornering speed would be the same, >> irrespective of horsepower), then a more powerful car should achieve >> a measurably faster top end in what's essentially a drag race, >> assuming all other things being equal. However, with the engine work >> being the only substantive change, the car was essentially no faster, >> based on maximum speed as noted at the at the braking point (and no, >> I don't lift until I brake). By contrast, I jumped into a student's >> E46 M3, with no engine mods, and was instantly 10mph faster down the >> straight, without even trying.... (i.e. it's not my driving that's >> the problem) >> >> FWIW, the car also has fan delete, underdrive pulleys, shorty headers >> (also from Bimmerworld and installed at the same time), ported and >> polished head and cat-back UCC exhaust. The baseline, prior to the >> cams, was the fan delete, underdrive pulleys, Conforti chip and K&N >> cone filter. If we assume (a dangerous thing to do, I know) say >> 250hp at the crank as the baseline (I don't have a dyno reading; >> these mods occurred after a head gasket issue at VIR), then a lot of >> parts, work and money netted me 20hp at the top end, but a 5hp >> reduction in the meat of the rev range.... >> >> I don't think I'm alone in having this problem. From what I've read >> on various boards, to make the Sunbelts work properly, you will often >> need to do some combination of futz with the cam timing and get a >> custom-programmed chip, and spend a lot of time on the dyno. I've >> spent a lot of money already on this "upgrade", and from a practical >> perspective ended up exactly where I started. And to get close to >> advertised numbers, I'll likely have to dump a bunch more money with >> the someone like Chuck Stickley to get it all to work as advertised. >> >> I'm not dissing James and Bimmerworld; they're good people, with this >> exception I'm a satisfied customer, and I still buy stuff there, but >> let's just politely say that, in my experience, estimates of the >> performance from the Sunbelt cams have been greatly exaggerated. >> >> Martin Bullen >> '95 M3 >> '97 Z3 2.8 >> '01 740i Sport >> >> On Feb 2, 2007, at 1:34 PM, E36M3 wrote: >> >> > Question: any comparisons out there between the Schrick and Sunbelt >> > cams? >> > I'm inclined to go with the Schricks, they've been around longer >> > and seemed >> > to have stood the test of time, but the good folks at BimmerWorld >> > (I'm a >> > satisfied customer) claim the Sunbelt cams are the shizz. Opinions, >> > please. > > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > >
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#4. Re: Success ( was Broken exhaust manifold studs) - from Neil Maller
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Date: Mon, 05 Feb 2007 11:31:41 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Success ( was Broken exhaust manifold studs) on 2/4/07 5:44 PM, "Lawrence J. Barbieri" <larry@logicalconclusions.com> wrote: > Then I took an M10x1.5 tap and ran it into the hole. There > were some threads left and the tap aligned itself with those threads and did > a really nice job of cleaning out the hole. Once that was done I ran an M10 > bolt in there to see how it seated itself and it was perfect. > Tomorrow I will try to get the replacement studs. If I can't get the > original parts I'll hit the hardware store and pick up a stainless M10 bolt > and cut the head off and make my own stud. All I need to do is put some > kind of stop in the middle to keep it from running all the way through the > manifold flange. I could possibly get a friend to put a small weld on it as > a stop. The other option I considered was red loctite. > > Any other ideas will be gladly accepted. Larry, Seems complicated to me. I'd drill the manifold flange holes through at 10mm and simply drop M10x40 hex bolts through from the top. Check first that there's clearance to the down pipes for the bolt head and the required wrench/socket. Those unobtainium BMW replacement bolts for the 96+ M3 have compact heads. Hardware store M10 SS bolts come with either 16mm or 17mm heads, so go small if offered a choice. Neil Fort Wayne, IN 96 M3 - Bastard child 03 525iT - Sterling Grey Metallic 05 Mini - Cooper S with LSD
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#5. two questions - from Tom Yee
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Date: Mon, 05 Feb 2007 12:14:40 -0500 From: "Tom Yee" <tomgsr@hotmail.com> Subject: two questions Hello, enthusiasts, I have a couple of questions that have probably come up before, but ... First, I tried to post this a week or two ago but didn't see it come through. If I missed it (don't recall replies, either), I apologize in advance. I am thinking about running 235/40s on 17x7.5 rims. While I understand it isn't optimal, no one has indicated that normal (spirited, about 8.5 out of 10) driving would cause the rim to roll over the bead. Has anyone heard of such an occurrence? Second, is anyone using this set up, and if so, have you noticed any uneven tread wear at the center of the tread (keeping in mind that the normal, staggered set up has its own peculiar idiocyncratic wear pattern)? Second main question regards the limited slip diff. I understand that this will prevent extended 'inside wheel slip' when accelerating out of a corner, but how does it work if, say, you are on a low friction surface (ice/snow) in a straight line? I experience a bit of right rear slip, the corner moves out a little, but shouldn't the traction attempt to move to the left wheel and maybe cause the same effect? Maybe I am not on the throttle enough to provoke this? Thanks for replies! Tom Yee 97 M3/4 _________________________________________________________________ FREE online classifieds from Windows Live Expo – buy and sell with people you know http://clk.atdmt.com/MSN/go/msnnkwex0010000001msn/direct/01/?href=http://expo.live.com?s_cid=Hotmail_tagline_12/06
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#6. Tensioners - from Mark Duckworth
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Date: Mon, 05 Feb 2007 11:46:39 -0500 From: Mark Duckworth <mdlkml@atari-source.com> Subject: Tensioners Hey guys, Can anyone recall off the top of their heads if the hydraulic belt tensioner bolts need loctite? Thanks, Mark
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#7. Re: [E36M3] two questions - from Carlos Lopez
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Date: Mon, 5 Feb 2007 12:34:33 -0500 From: "Carlos Lopez" <clopez98m3@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] two questions 2/5/07, Tom Yee <tomgsr@hotmail.com> wrote: > First, I tried to post this a week or two ago but didn't see it come > through. If I missed it (don't recall replies, either), I apologize in > advance. I am thinking about running 235/40s on 17x7.5 rims. 95 M3 Lightweights came with that exact combination, staggered rims but with 235/40s mounted all around. It works. Now depending on the rims, if for example you had the bend like butter 95 M3 rims then with 235/40s they will...... wait for it..... bend like butter. :-P At least that was one reason for going to higher sidewalls in the later cars. Your call to make, Carlos 98 M3 with staggered wheels and tires on the forged polished rims. :-/ Would prefer all 8.5s and non-staggered tires. :-)
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#8. FW: [e36m3] [E36M3] two questions - from Marco
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Date: Mon, 5 Feb 2007 09:52:01 -0800 From: "Marco" <m3driver@iname.com> Subject: FW: [e36m3] [E36M3] two questions IIRC the 95 came with 235/40s on 7.5 rims on all 4 corners. And for the LSD it only transfers some of the power, not all. Marco -----Original Message----- From: Tom Yee [mailto:tomgsr@hotmail.com] Sent: Monday, February 05, 2007 9:24 AM To: E36M3 Subject: [e36m3] [E36M3] two questions Date: Mon, 05 Feb 2007 12:14:40 -0500 From: "Tom Yee" <tomgsr@hotmail.com> Subject: two questions Hello, enthusiasts, I have a couple of questions that have probably come up before, but ... First, I tried to post this a week or two ago but didn't see it come through. If I missed it (don't recall replies, either), I apologize in advance. I am thinking about running 235/40s on 17x7.5 rims. While I understand it isn't optimal, no one has indicated that normal (spirited, about 8.5 out of 10) driving would cause the rim to roll over the bead. Has anyone heard of such an occurrence? Second, is anyone using this set up, and if so, have you noticed any uneven tread wear at the center of the tread (keeping in mind that the normal, staggered set up has its own peculiar idiocyncratic wear pattern)? Second main question regards the limited slip diff. I understand that this will prevent extended 'inside wheel slip' when accelerating out of a corner, but how does it work if, say, you are on a low friction surface (ice/snow) in a straight line? I experience a bit of right rear slip, the corner moves out a little, but shouldn't the traction attempt to move to the left wheel and maybe cause the same effect? Maybe I am not on the throttle enough to provoke this? Thanks for replies! Tom Yee 97 M3/4 _________________________________________________________________ FREE online classifieds from Windows Live Expo - buy and sell with people you know http://clk.atdmt.com/MSN/go/msnnkwex0010000001msn/direct/01/?href=http://exp o.live.com?s_cid=Hotmail_tagline_12/06 ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm ************************************************* -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.17.25/669 - Release Date: 2/4/2007 9:58 PM
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#9. Re: [E36M3] two questions - from Raza Uddin
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Date: Mon, 5 Feb 2007 10:11:30 -0800 From: "Raza Uddin" <raza.uddin@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] two questions On 2/5/07, Carlos Lopez <clopez98m3@gmail.com> wrote: > > 95 M3 Lightweights came with that exact combination, staggered rims > but with 235/40s mounted all around. It works. LTWs actually came with staggered wheels, but the tires were 235s all around. Otherwise, running 235s on a 7.5 is fine. Drive Safely, Raza
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#10. Re: [E36M3] two questions - from Carlos Lopez
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Date: Mon, 5 Feb 2007 13:29:55 -0500 From: "Carlos Lopez" <clopez98m3@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] two questions On 2/5/07, Raza Uddin <raza.uddin@gmail.com> wrote: > On 2/5/07, Carlos Lopez <clopez98m3@gmail.com> wrote: > > > > 95 M3 Lightweights came with that exact combination, staggered rims > > but with 235/40s mounted all around. It works. > > LTWs actually came with staggered wheels, but the tires were 235s all > around. Didn't I just say that? :-/ Carlos.
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#11. [FS] Sparco 5-point harness - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Mon, 05 Feb 2007 10:31:12 -0800 From: Jim Bassett <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: [FS] Sparco 5-point harness I'm selling the "expired" 5-point harness from the race car. $75 shipped. Ad here: http://www.justracing.com/classified/374 or here: http://www.jimbassett.com/Harn4sale.html Thanks, Jim Bassett
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#12. Re: [E36M3] two questions - from Raza Uddin
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Date: Mon, 5 Feb 2007 10:32:23 -0800 From: "Raza Uddin" <raza.uddin@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] two questions On 2/5/07, Carlos Lopez <clopez98m3@gmail.com> wrote: > > Didn't I just say that? :-/ > > Carlos. Sorry, I guess it I have a case of the Mondays. :( Drive Safely, Raza