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#1. Re: [E36M3] Head Gasket - Reassembly Prep Question - from David Thomas
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Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2007 13:49:02 -0800 From: David Thomas <dave@sasdatalink.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Head Gasket - Reassembly Prep Question On Saturday 10 February 2007 9:54 pm, Chester Wong wrote: > Don't use a bolt in a hole with liquid. Liquid is non-compressible and if > you tighten the bolt, you can do bad things. Stick with q-tips and > papertowels rolled to a point. A shopvac is handy for this. Duct tape a small tube to your shopvac hose if you need to get down in the holes, but most strong shopvacs will evacuate the holes without it. Dave T.
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#2. Parasitic Drain - from Shane Kleinpeter
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Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2007 15:48:36 -0800 (PST) From: Shane Kleinpeter <sak335@yahoo.com> Subject: Parasitic Drain So bouyed by the article posted by Shel a couple weeks back, I finally got around to attempting to find the parasitic drain in my '96 M3. Prior attempts were done incorrectly, but this time, the test light method seemed straight forward. Bottom line is I have traced the drain to something on the circuit for fuse 33. On this circuit are the following: 1 CD Changer 2 Charging Socket (I assume for the glove box flashlight that I don't have) 3 Door Lock Heating 4 Interior and Luggage Compartment Lights 5 Side Light - left 6 Reading Light 7 Parking Light I was able to test all but the door lock heaters today, and had mixed results. Effectively, I don't think it is any of the ones I tested, save the trunk light. When I unplug the trunk light, the test light glowed very dimly, instead of steadily. I figured that the switch would be the culprit since I have heard of this being a fairly common failure, but it tested fine. I replaced it with the one I took off the race car 5 years ago anyway... That pretty much leaves the door lock heaters. I didn't test them because my Bentley manual is up with the race car in storage right now, but I guess I'll take care of that next weekend when I'm preparing for the CMP race the following weekend. Has anybody experienced a problem with these in the past? Any comments welcomed. Oh, and my climate control system failed on Saturday. I had bookmarked the fix it page years back in anticipation, and after a trip to Radio Shack, had it fixed in less than an hour! Shane Kleinpeter http://www.justracing.com/homepage/sak335 '96 M3 '94 325i #76 ITS / JP ____________________________________________________________________________________ Cheap talk? Check out Yahoo! Messenger's low PC-to-Phone call rates. http://voice.yahoo.com
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Parasitic Drain - from Ed MacVaugh
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Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2007 19:02:13 -0500 From: Ed MacVaugh <macvaugh@comcast.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Parasitic Drain Testing the luggage compartment switch doesn't mean it isn't the problem. If it is not opening when the lid is closed, it can work perfectly and still drain the battery. How exactly did you test it? Problem testing the locks is that they don't activate until lower ambient temperatures and then, if they are like my 7er, when the handle is lifted. Ed Shane Kleinpeter wrote: >I was able to test all but the door lock heaters today, and had mixed results. Effectively, I don't think it is any of the ones I tested, save the trunk light. When I unplug the trunk light, the test light glowed very dimly, instead of steadily. I figured that the switch would be the culprit since I have heard of this being a fairly common failure, but it tested fine. I replaced it with the one I took off the race car 5 years ago anyway... > >That pretty much leaves the door lock heaters. I didn't test them because my Bentley manual is up with the race car in storage right now, but I guess I'll take care of that next weekend when I'm preparing for the CMP race the following weekend. Has anybody experienced a problem with these in the past? > >Any comments welcomed. > >
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Parasitic Drain - from Shane Kleinpeter
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Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2007 16:14:48 -0800 (PST) From: Shane Kleinpeter <sak335@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Parasitic Drain I tested it the same way I tested the other things...disconnect the item and touch the test lead to the negative battery terminal. But for the trunk light, I went one step further and closed the trunk (with battery connected) and opened the folding rear seat to ensure that the light was not on. It was not. Shane Kleinpeter http://www.justracing.com/homepage/sak335 '96 M3 '94 325i #76 ITS / JP Ed Wrote: Testing the luggage compartment switch doesn't mean it isn't the problem. If it is not opening when the lid is closed, it can work perfectly and still drain the battery. How exactly did you test it? Problem testing the locks is that they don't activate until lower ambient temperatures and then, if they are like my 7er, when the handle is lifted. ____________________________________________________________________________________ Get your own web address. Have a HUGE year through Yahoo! Small Business. http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com/domains/?p=BESTDEAL
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Parasitic Drain - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2007 17:03:29 -0800 (PST) From: "Jim Bassett" <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Parasitic Drain On Sun, February 11, 2007 3:54 pm, Shane Kleinpeter said: > Prior > attempts were done incorrectly, but this time, the test light method > seemed straight forward. My only thought (not knowing exactly how you've been testing), is that is sounds like you are using a voltage-testing device (test light) to look for a current drain. To really localize the problem, you'll want to look for excess current draw in each circuit using an ammeter. The problem with that is that an ammeter needs to be inline with the circuit under test (rather than across it like a test light or voltmeter). This can be difficult, if not impossible. The circuits you've already tested *may* still be the source of the current drain. The drain may just not be enough to create a voltage across the test light, keeping it from lighting up. <shrug>. Of course, it's Sunday, and I try really hard not to "engineer" on Sundays - or Saturdays for that matter :-) So if I've missed, or misinterpreted, anything, my apologies. Jim Basssett
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#6. Faulty Brake light switch -- Always On - from Robert Exconde - M3
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Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2007 20:56:15 -0600 From: "Robert Exconde - M3" <99e36m3@exconde.com> Subject: Faulty Brake light switch -- Always On Hi all, I'm getting around to changing the brake light switch because the brakes are constantly on. As far as I can tell I need the brake switch P/N 61318360417 (With Check Control) FYI, I have a 99M3 The brake lights go off if I pull the brake pedal up with my foot. Basically I'm asking if this is the correct part number and this is the right fix. Thanks, Robert 99M3 -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.17.32/677 - Release Date: 2/8/2007 9:04 PM
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#7. eurospec driver's mirrors - from Robert Exconde - M3
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Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2007 21:07:57 -0600 From: "Robert Exconde - M3" <99e36m3@exconde.com> Subject: eurospec driver's mirrors My driver's side mirror is getting the weird inner rust on the edges and its getting rather bothersome. I figured if I'm going to get a new one, I'm going to get the eurospec version. Does anyone have a good source for getting these mirrors? I believe it is P/N: 51.16.2.267.191 Robert 99M3 -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.17.32/677 - Release Date: 2/8/2007 9:04 PM
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#8. Head Gasket - Reassembly Prep Question - from Rich Dorffer
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Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2007 22:14:18 -0500 From: "Rich Dorffer" <E36M3Digest@gmail.com> Subject: Head Gasket - Reassembly Prep Question From: Mark Duckworth <mdlkml@atari-source.com> > > So that leads me to my questions. I don't have an air compressor and I > got one of those air duster cans from wal-mart. However, try as I might > it really works like crap. I think I'll have to resort to q-tips. Lots > of q-tips, followed by several threadings of an old bolt. Any other > suggestions though? Almost all the holes seem to have some amount of > liquid in them, be it coolant or oil or some mix of the two. Buy a small air tank (cheap at HF or the like) and fill it up locally. Also, you could use a shop vac. And the other much more serious question is how clean is clean when it > comes to the block surface. VAC's engine builder told me to use 80 grit > sandpaper. I got some and it seems awfully rough, so I tested it on a > non-sealing section of the block and sure enough it seemed to have left > what I would consider deep gouges. My thought is either my definition > of smooth is off the wall wrong or they really meant oh 800 grit. > > The plastic scraper just isn't doing the job though. Over the entire > surface the old gasket seems to have left a clear almost teflon like > substance which is slippery both slippery and ridged. While fairly > clean looking, I am 100% sure there is residue left over as I can > scratch it away with my fingernail. Brake clean and Scotchbrite pads are your friend. It is the safest method to avoid damage and it is effective. Avoid all power tools where the head gasket seals (use power tools on the exterior of the block if you so desire). I previously suggested this. I would never use sandpaper, of any grit. I can't hardly believe VAC would suggest this, are you sure you didn't misunderstand them? Regards, Rich
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#9. Looking for 1 (one) 17x8.5" DSII - from Jeff Conner
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Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2007 19:46:03 -0800 (PST) From: Jeff Conner <jeff.conner@yahoo.com> Subject: Looking for 1 (one) 17x8.5" DSII So, I've looked on eBay, craigslist, and lots of forums, but I'm unable to find someone who's trying to sell a single 17 x 8.5" Double Spoke II wheel. I'm looking for one that is straight, round and true. Curb rash? not a problem, as long as it's not massive gouges. Surface scratches? They're expected. I have three, I need another. My fantasy has me finding one locally (Bay Area, CA) for $100. Anyone out there with anything close to this? Thanks -jeff 98///Sedan with 4-17x8.5" BBS CH 95///Trackdog with 3-17x8.5" (& 2-17x7.5") DSII ____________________________________________________________________________________ We won't tell. Get more on shows you hate to love (and love to hate): Yahoo! TV's Guilty Pleasures list. http://tv.yahoo.com/collections/265
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Head Gasket - Reassembly Prep Question - from Mark Duckworth
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Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 00:59:50 -0500 From: Mark Duckworth <mdlkml@atari-source.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Head Gasket - Reassembly Prep Question On Sun, 2007-02-11 at 21:24 -0600, Rich Dorffer wrote: > Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2007 22:14:18 -0500 > From: "Rich Dorffer" <E36M3Digest@gmail.com> > Subject: Head Gasket - Reassembly Prep Question > > From: Mark Duckworth <mdlkml@atari-source.com> > > > > > So that leads me to my questions. I don't have an air compressor and I > > got one of those air duster cans from wal-mart. However, try as I might > > it really works like crap. I think I'll have to resort to q-tips. Lots > > of q-tips, followed by several threadings of an old bolt. Any other > > suggestions though? Almost all the holes seem to have some amount of > > liquid in them, be it coolant or oil or some mix of the two. > > > Buy a small air tank (cheap at HF or the like) and fill it up locally. > Also, you could use a shop vac. > > And the other much more serious question is how clean is clean when it > > comes to the block surface. VAC's engine builder told me to use 80 grit > > sandpaper. I got some and it seems awfully rough, so I tested it on a > > non-sealing section of the block and sure enough it seemed to have left > > what I would consider deep gouges. My thought is either my definition > > of smooth is off the wall wrong or they really meant oh 800 grit. > > > > The plastic scraper just isn't doing the job though. Over the entire > > surface the old gasket seems to have left a clear almost teflon like > > substance which is slippery both slippery and ridged. While fairly > > clean looking, I am 100% sure there is residue left over as I can > > scratch it away with my fingernail. > > > Brake clean and Scotchbrite pads are your friend. It is the safest method > to avoid damage and it is effective. Avoid all power tools where the head > gasket seals (use power tools on the exterior of the block if you so > desire). I previously suggested this. > > I would never use sandpaper, of any grit. I can't hardly believe VAC would > suggest this, are you sure you didn't misunderstand them? Yeah, In fact I was talking to the other guy when I was picking up the head and I said "Paul said use 80 grit sandpaper, are you sure? Won't the little pebbles find their way into the holes? " and he said no it's fine, just make sure to keep it out of the oil passageways, it doesn't matter if they get into the coolant. What's further is that I've seen 80-100 grit sandpaper mentioned elsewhere on the intarweb. But brake clean and a plastic scraper/scotchbrite is what I'll try next. Someone somewhere said stay far away from scotchbrite. I think it was vac! Thanks, Mark