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#1. WTB used open trailer - from Robert Manger
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Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 12:35:25 -0500 From: "Robert Manger" <Robert_Manger@Mastercard.com> Subject: WTB used open trailer Hi all, Looking for an open trailer to start this season off (yeah thinking ahead, nothing better todo). would prefer aluminum, but a steel trailer would work too. I've already done the racing junk.com site and there isn't much in the Northeast at all. thanks, rob
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#2. Re: Opinions on Euro Parts Direct Cat Pipe - from Neil Maller
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Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 12:36:24 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Opinions on Euro Parts Direct Cat Pipe on 2/12/07 12:14 PM, "Patrick Kelly" <pkelly@agincourtcapital.com> wrote: > OK, I'm still looking at options for better breathing on my '95, and noticed > an aftermarket cat pipe on Ebay from "Euro Parts Direct:" > > <http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&sspagename=ADME%3A > B%3AAAQ%3AUS%3A1&viewitem=&item=290080645799> > > Anyone have any experience with these? Says they're not CARB-approved, but > that doesn't matter to me.I kinda like the little crossover pipe for > locating a OBD-I bung. $407 shipped anywhere in the US. That little crossover pipe is in the wrong place for an OBD-I bung. It needs to be before the cats, not after. Neil Fort Wayne, IN 96 M3 - Bastard child 03 525iT - Sterling Grey Metallic 05 Mini - Cooper S with LSD
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#3. RE: Opinions on Euro Parts Direct Cat Pipe - from Burgess, Kim L
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Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 10:00:53 -0800 From: "Burgess, Kim L" <kim.l.burgess@boeing.com> Subject: RE: Opinions on Euro Parts Direct Cat Pipe I have no experience with them. The same CATS BimmerWorld offers, buy from a list sponsor. I see they don't offer insurance, so you get what is delivered above the FedEx/ups standard. -------------------- 7 -------------------- Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 09:17:44 -0500 From: "Patrick Kelly" <pkelly@agincourtcapital.com> Subject: Opinions on Euro Parts Direct Cat Pipe OK, I'm still looking at options for better breathing on my '95, and noticed an aftermarket cat pipe on Ebay from "Euro Parts Direct:" <http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&sspagename=ADM E%3AB%3AAAQ%3AUS%3A1&viewitem=&item=290080645799> (That URL is probably gonna wrap, sorry). Anyone have any experience with these? Says they're not CARB-approved, but that doesn't matter to me. I kinda like the little crossover pipe for locating a OBD-I bung. $407 shipped anywhere in the US. Anyone? Bueller? TIA, Pat Kelly
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#4. Re: Opinions on Euro Parts Direct Cat Pipe - from carguymb@aol.com
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Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 13:15:23 -0500 From: carguymb@aol.com Subject: Re: Opinions on Euro Parts Direct Cat Pipe Pat, The crossover pipe is downstream of the cats. Won't work for an O2 sensor. Assuming the cats aren't complete junk, it would appear to offer the same advantages for a '95 car as the factory '96+ system. Martin Bullen '95 M3 '97 Z3 2.8 '01 740i Sport -------------------- 7 -------------------- Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 09:17:44 -0500 From: "Patrick Kelly" <pkelly@agincourtcapital.com> Subject: Opinions on Euro Parts Direct Cat Pipe OK, I'm still looking at options for better breathing on my '95, and noticed an aftermarket cat pipe on Ebay from "Euro Parts Direct:" http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem <http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&sspagename=ADME%3A B%3AAAQ%3AUS%3A1&viewitem=&item=290080645799> &sspagename=ADME%3AB%3AAAQ%3AUS%3A1&viewitem=&item=290080645799 (That URL is probably gonna wrap, sorry). Anyone have any experience with these? Says they're not CARB-approved, but that doesn't matter to me.I kinda like the little crossover pipe for locating a OBD-I bung. $407 shipped anywhere in the US. Anyone? Bueller? TIA, Pat Kelly pkelly@agincourtcapital.com ________________________________________________________________________ Check out the new AOL. Most comprehensive set of free safety and security tools, free access to millions of high-quality videos from across the web, free AOL Mail and more.
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#5. Turner Shorty Header Install - from Lawrence Barbieri
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Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 13:25:26 -0500 From: "Lawrence Barbieri" <larry@logicalconclusions.com> Subject: Turner Shorty Header Install Hello Everyone, First let me say thanks to all of you that offered me advice on the installation of the headers. Next let me publicly thank my friends Simon and Bill, both of whom gave of their time and knuckles to help in this endeavor. This will be a brief chronicle of how the install went. On Friday evening I took a small wire brush to each of the nuts holding on the exhaust manifold and then gave them a good soaking with penetrating oil. On Saturday morning I gave them another shot and let them soak for another 1/2 hour or so. I finally slid under the car to begin the task of removing the 24 nuts/studs. Working from above and below I was able to get at every one of them with a ratchet and socket. Mostly I used a 3/8 drive ratchet with 3/8 -> 1/4 adapter and a 1/4 drive deep 11mm socket. This provided a very secure grip on the nut and plenty of leverage to loosen it. The final tally, 3 nuts came off and 21 studs backed out. Zero things broke!! Home team 1 Visitors 0. I procured 24 new nuts but was not able to get any new studs. Not wanting to wait for another weekend to get this job done I decided to reuse the studs. A perfectly fine option, except for one thing....21 nuts still stuck to them! I ran to the local hardware store and purchased 2 7mm nuts. Putting both nuts on the back of the stud and holding them with 2 wrenches, my friend Simon was able to apply a ratchet to the stuck nut in an attempt to remove it. All the studs had been soaked in PB Blaster for some time, but only about 5 or 6 actually came off without the addition of the "heat wrench" which worked beautifully, every time. A wire wheel on the Dremel tool and the studs were good as new. That process took much longer than I thought, but it had to be done. Now on to assembly. Each stud was coated in high temp copper anti-seize. I installed all the lower studs on the front 3 cylinders and several of the upper studs. This left some extra clearance space to get the header up into position and then the remaining studs could be installed after the fact. The front header slid up and over the studs without any real fussing, there was plenty of room. So, thoughts of removing a motor mount and jacking the engine were now a thing of the past. I worked from below and Simon worked from above to begin attaching the new nuts to the studs. This was a mostly painless job for 11 out of the 12 nuts, but there is one that is tricky to get at. The elaborate, convoluted tube bends tend to leave much less space to work than the stock manifolds. To get that last nut on Simon literally had to lay across the engine and feed his hands down from above while I tried to lend a helping finger from under the car (it was very tight spot, needless to say). Finally, the nut thread on a turn or two. From there it was the gearwrench that saved the day. There is no way anyone should attempt this job with a decent ratcheting wrench. If you don't have a set of these, go out now and get them! By now it was late afternoon. I was losing my helper and I was tired as well, so I called it a day. Sunday morning. I finished tightening the nuts on the front header. I installed the studs for the rear header and slid it up into place, easy as pie. By now Bill had showed up to help. He installed and tightened everything he could reach for up top and I did the same from below. All in all the back header was on in less than an hour. Fit of the Turner headers was perfect. We hung the cats up and I installed the 6 bolts at the flange. Again, alignment to the Turner headers was spot on. Once the cat was hung loosely we prepped the UUC RSC36 exhaust and hung that up as well. Bill's total time there was about 1.5 hours and when he left all I had to do was torque down the exhaust system bolts and put my X-brace back up. I started the car and listened top and bottom for any exhaust leaks. There were none. I revved the engine to 3000, 3500 and 4000 rpm and noted no unusual sounds, rattles or vibrations (car is still on the lift, mind you). Exhaust sound at idle, really no different than the stock muffler, quite tame. Even revving the engine did not produce anything that I would consider excessively loud. I'm sure it sounds different from outside the car. Tonight will be it's first test drive. If there is anything to report from that I will let you all know. But so far, it is a job where pretty much everything went as expected. In my book, that's a huge win! Thanks again, everyone! - Larry -- Lawrence Barbieri Logical Conclusions 96 Blanchette Dr. Marlborough, MA 01752 larry@logicalconclusions.com
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#6. Re: [E36M3] WTB used open trailer - from Mark Dadgar
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Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 10:31:54 -0800 From: Mark Dadgar <mark@pdc-racing.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] WTB used open trailer On Feb 12, 2007, at 9:44 AM, Robert Manger wrote: > Looking for an open trailer to start this season off (yeah thinking > ahead, > nothing better todo). would prefer aluminum, but a steel trailer > would > work too. I've already done the racing junk.com site and there > isn't much > in the Northeast at all. <http://www.justracing.com/classified/379> - Mark ----- mark@pdc-racing.net Check out my JustRacing Home Page at: http://www.justracing.com/homepage/mdadgar
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#7. Calling Richard Ballinger... - from Hans Batra
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Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 11:43:11 -0800 (PST) From: Hans Batra <hansbatra@yahoo.com> Subject: Calling Richard Ballinger... Hi Richard, My laptop has crashed - can you please email me your mailing address and contact number? Thanks! Hans hansbatra@yahoo.com
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#8. Steering Coupler/Guibo - from Raza Uddin
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Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 12:29:34 -0800 From: "Raza Uddin" <raza.uddin@gmail.com> Subject: Steering Coupler/Guibo I am in the process of gathering parts to freshen my front end. I'm planning on replacing the control arms, control arm bushings, and tie-rod assemblies. Also, I have been experiencing some "wooliness" (pardon the technical term) in the steering wheel. There seems to be a good amount of play in the center, as well as the steering wheel is quicker to respond to the left than the right (at highway speeds). Through some searching on bimmerforums, I can across people replacing the rubber flexdisk that joins the u-joints on the steering rack. As any on the list replaced this part? Two trusted mechanics I've talked to have never replaced one before making me question whether it is necessary. Everyone who has changed it claimed it made a difference and I am at the point where I am willing to try anything to get the car back to feeling precise again. My 1998 sedan has 131K miles including a good amount of track and autocross usage. And I hope the car sees much more. I'm sure all the new front-end components will help (especially the bushings and tie-rods), but is there anything else you can suggest I should look at or replace to get rid of the slop? Thanks in advance! Drive Safely, Raza
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#9. Re: Digest Welcome - from hancheyb@vorshlag.com
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Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 12:54:16 -0800 From: "" <hancheyb@vorshlag.com> Subject: Re: Digest Welcome Greetings! I will be on vacation from Sunday, February 11 through Tuesday, February 13th. I will have limited access to email during this time. If this message was sent only to me, please forward it to Terry Fair (Vorshlag Owner) at fair@vorshlag.com. Any other Vorshlag email accounts will be forwarded correctly. If you require immediate assistance, please call 214-227-8670 and press 5 to be connected to my mobile phone. Regards, Brian Hanchey Vorshlag Motorsports LLC www.vorshlag.com
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#10. Replacing Rear Wheel Bearings - from Jonathan L.
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Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 13:32:16 -0800 From: "Jonathan L." <twistym3@hotmail.com> Subject: Replacing Rear Wheel Bearings My right rear wheel bearing is screaming at me that it would liked to be replaced and I'm thinking of attacking this job myself. Is there an online description of all needed tools and procedures for this? I can't seem to find anything, so any assistance would be greatly appreciated. Also, could I just rent a standard bearing puller from an autoparts shop, or would I need a specific BMW version to make it an easier job. Not looking forward to it, but also not looking forward to paying someone else to do it. Thanks, Jonathan L. _________________________________________________________________ Invite your Hotmail contacts to join your friends list with Windows Live Spaces http://clk.atdmt.com/MSN/go/msnnkwsp0070000001msn/direct/01/?href=http://spaces.live.com/spacesapi.aspx?wx_action=create&wx_url=/friends.aspx&mkt=en-us