E36M3 #5141

Wednesday, February 14, 2007 10:14:10

This digest contains the following messages:

#1. FS: '96 M3 Coupe Project Car - from Skip Bacon
#2. Re: [E36M3] Replacing Rear Wheel Bearings - from David Thomas
#3. RE: [E36M3] Replacing Rear Wheel Bearings - from Jonathan L.
#4. Re: Replacing Rear Wheel Bearings - from Neil Maller
#5. Re: [E36M3] Re: Replacing Rear Wheel Bearings - from David Thomas
#6. RE: [E36M3] Replacing Rear Wheel Bearings - from Jim Bassett
#7. RE: [E36M3] RE: Headers - Don't rule out JetHot Headers for E36. - from Garrick Ward
#8. Re: [E36M3] Still Nothing Beats It! - from dhogg
#9. Different e36 front subframes? - from Mike DePolo
#10. Re: [E36M3] Head Gasket - Reassembly Prep Question - from Mark Duckworth

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#1. FS: '96 M3 Coupe Project Car - from Skip Bacon
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Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 21:41:29 +0000 From: "Skip Bacon" <skip@talltalesfarm.com> Subject: FS: '96 M3 Coupe Project Car I've been sitting on this car for a long time following its disastrous stay at a criminal ex-SoCal "tuner". It's long past time to have it put to better use... so make me a reasonable offer and come get it. To be crystal clear, this is a PROJECT car. I think the only viable solutions are either convert it to racecar, selling off all the parts, or combine this with another car (perhaps hit in the back?) to make one running street car. With that said, this could be a very cheap way to buy a bunch of performance parts or great start for a track day or race car. Body and interior: - '96 M3 coupe, black on black - 2nd owner (since 1,500 miles), about 45k total miles on car, no accident damage. Various dings and dents from sitting in parking lots, worst is a crimp in the trailing edge of one door, all panels otherwise straight. All glass intact and in good condition. Paint generally in good to very good shape. - Body includes installed OEM LTW rear wing (with riser blocks) and LTW front splitter and spoiler (partially installed) - Recaro Sport seats installed, otherwise stock leather interior in very good condition. 1 stock leather manual front seat also included. Engine, electrical, and mechanical: - All wiring harnesses forward of the firewall missing - master fuse box removed, all wires cut at passthrough on firewall - No DME - long block and head installed, no engine auxiliaries. Head is supposedly reworked high performance head/cams/etc. Block is supposed to contain low comp forged pistons and Arrow rods. - Engine compartment is basically otherwise bare - Includes Euro 6 speed tranny (not installed), UUC shifter, lighted 6 speed knob - New cats, Supersprint exhaust w/straight tips - New OEM radiator w/SPAL electric fan and silicon hoses (not installed) Suspension and brakes: - H&R coilovers all around, UUC swaybarians front and rear. E30 aluminum front control arms with offset bushings. - Dinan rear strut tower brace. - Mov'it big brakes, front and rear, including custom rear backing plates - 3.64 differential with Quaife, alpina finned diff cover - 4 OEM forged split-spoke wheels, like new condition; tires most likely dead from age but have good tread Also includes 6+ big boxes of additional miscellaneous parts, complete junkyard wiring harness, etc etc etc. Terms of sale are simple: 1. As is, where is; what you see is what you get. I cannot in any way guarantee the state of the engine components. Offer accordingly. 2. Buyer takes it all. Car is on wheels and rolling, you'll need a van or truck to get all the miscellaneous parts. I don't have time, tools, or space at present to part it out. 3. Car is in Palo Alto, CA, you must pick it up or make shipping arrangements. If interested contact me at skip@talltalesfarm.com. Looking forward to closing a very painful chapter and hoping someone else can make some good come out of this. Skip

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#2. Re: [E36M3] Replacing Rear Wheel Bearings - from David Thomas
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Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 13:44:40 -0800 From: David Thomas <dave@sasdatalink.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Replacing Rear Wheel Bearings On Monday 12 February 2007 1:34 pm, Jonathan L. wrote: > Is there an online description of all needed tools and procedures for this? Google around a bit, quite a few rwb pages out there. > Also, could I just rent a standard bearing puller from an > autoparts shop, or would I need a specific BMW version to make it an easier > job. It very doubtfull that you could find anyone local that would have any rental tools that would work well. You can either make your own tool, buy one, or try to find a loaner off the internet. > Not looking forward to it, but also not looking forward to paying someone > else to do it. With the proper tools its not a tough job, but it can get ugly fast if you get stuck and cant fix the issue yourself. Have you done this type of job before? Dave T.

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#3. RE: [E36M3] Replacing Rear Wheel Bearings - from Jonathan L.
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Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 14:26:25 -0800 From: "Jonathan L." <twistym3@hotmail.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Replacing Rear Wheel Bearings Thanks to info, links and advice from Kirk, Neil, David and Shane, I'm not even considering this job anymore. LOL!! I don't have half the tools listed that Neil forwarded, let alone the specific ones needed. In the short term, it will be much less expensive and time-consuming for me to simply pay someone to do it. Thanks for all the replies and wake-up calls. =) Jonathan L. _________________________________________________________________ Invite your Hotmail contacts to join your friends list with Windows Live Spaces http://clk.atdmt.com/MSN/go/msnnkwsp0070000001msn/direct/01/?href=http://spaces.live.com/spacesapi.aspx?wx_action=create&wx_url=/friends.aspx&mkt=en-us

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#4. Re: Replacing Rear Wheel Bearings - from Neil Maller
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Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 17:33:59 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Replacing Rear Wheel Bearings on 2/12/07 4:44 PM, "Jonathan L." <twistym3@hotmail.com> wrote: > My right rear wheel bearing is screaming at me that it would liked to be > replaced and I'm thinking of attacking this job myself. > > Is there an online description of all needed tools and procedures for this? > I can't seem to find anything, so any assistance would be greatly > appreciated. I've forwarded to you privately my three lengthy how-to posts from the Digest last October. > Also, could I just rent a standard bearing puller from an autoparts shop, or > would I need a specific BMW version to make it an easier job. Unfortunately no, not a chance. You need to have the special tool set. Don't even think of improvising. > Not looking forward to it, but also not looking forward to paying someone > else to do it. It's not a fun job, but it's doable with the right tools. Neil Fort Wayne, IN 96 M3 - Bastard child 03 525iT - Sterling Grey Metallic 05 Mini - Cooper S with LSD

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#5. Re: [E36M3] Re: Replacing Rear Wheel Bearings - from David Thomas
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Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 14:47:37 -0800 From: David Thomas <dave@sasdatalink.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Replacing Rear Wheel Bearings On Monday 12 February 2007 2:44 pm, Neil Maller wrote: > Unfortunately no, not a chance. You need to have the special tool set. > Don't even think of improvising. What? You can make your own tool...but probably not if you have to ask... Dave T.

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#6. RE: [E36M3] Replacing Rear Wheel Bearings - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 14:51:07 -0800 (PST) From: "Jim Bassett" <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Replacing Rear Wheel Bearings On Mon, February 12, 2007 2:34 pm, Jonathan L. said: > I don't have half the tools listed that Neil forwarded, let alone the > specific ones needed. In the short term, it will be much less expensive > and > time-consuming for me to simply pay someone to do it. > > Thanks for all the replies and wake-up calls. =) Just to throw in my belated-2-cents <g>, I've done front bearings - with the help of a local friend who had the correct puller. Rears I've left to a professional. Good choice :-) Jim Bassett

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#7. RE: [E36M3] RE: Headers - Don't rule out JetHot Headers for E36. - from Garrick Ward
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Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 18:53:23 -0500 From: "Garrick Ward" <garrickwar@msn.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] RE: Headers - Don't rule out JetHot Headers for E36. hey all, i've been hooked upto this forum room for a year now and thanks for all the info.i'm currently shopping around for a pair of SS headers for my OBD1 '95 m3 and I'm looking for any personal experience with Ireland Engineering SS headers. i have their SS exhaust on my car and it sounds great! Any responses or suggestion would be greatly appreciated. thanks >From: kim.burgess@att.net >Reply-To: kim.burgess@att.net >To: E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> >Subject: [E36M3] RE: Headers - Don't rule out JetHot Headers for E36. >Date: Fri, 9 Feb 2007 22:14:08 -0600 > >Date: Sat, 10 Feb 2007 04:08:04 +0000 >From: kim.burgess@att.net >Subject: RE: Headers - Don't rule out JetHot Headers for E36. > >Jet Hot E36 shorty headers, fully coated in & out with the Jet Hot sterling >silver finish. The OBDII headers do come with the air pump provision. They >are the same price as the OBDI headers @ $599. > >JET-HOT Coatings >100 Ross Rd. >King of Prussia PA,19406 >1-800-432-3379 ext 110 > >KLBurgess - no interest or affiliation > > > >************************************************* >Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > >Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com >Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com >Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com >Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com >Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com >Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > >DIGEST INFORMATION: >http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm >************************************************* > > _________________________________________________________________ Laugh, share and connect with Windows Live Messenger http://clk.atdmt.com/MSN/go/msnnkwme0020000001msn/direct/01/?href=http://imagine-msn.com/messenger/launch80/default.aspx?locale=en-us&source=hmtagline

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#8. Re: [E36M3] Still Nothing Beats It! - from dhogg
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Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2007 06:52:51 -0500 From: "dhogg" <dhogg@suscom.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Still Nothing Beats It! I, too, just came from the Philly Show. The 335i 4-dr is a viable alternative if Munich disses us 4-dr M3 folks again. But the Pontiac G8 with the 6-liter V8 could be very interesting for a whole lot less money. Dave Hogg

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#9. Different e36 front subframes? - from Mike DePolo
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Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2007 10:11:53 -0500 From: "Mike DePolo" <smiked1@gmail.com> Subject: Different e36 front subframes? Anyone know the difference between M3 and regular E36 front subframe/crossmembers? I found three part numbers. Is it just the nutserts after 9/92? 31111141023 e36 up to 9/92 31111096485 e36 from 9/92 31112229040 M3 Thanks. Mike

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#10. Re: [E36M3] Head Gasket - Reassembly Prep Question - from Mark Duckworth
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Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2007 11:11:47 -0500 From: Mark Duckworth <mdlkml@atari-source.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Head Gasket - Reassembly Prep Question Hello guys, I've been chatting around and I think I found some answers on the block deck cleaning subject. 1. It seems that gasket remover spray is an absolute necessity. I bought some but haven't had the opportunity to try it yet. A guy I know who rebuilds engines thought I was nuts when I told him I was using brake parts cleaner and a plastic scraper. He said I won't get anywhere without a razor blade (used carefully) and gasket remover. Regarding the sand paper, I don't think vac was far off. My personal opinion is that the block deck should be as "factory" finished as possible, but there seems to be some opinion that you should do a cross hatch pattern with a block and low grit number sand paper. A buddy of mine says in his experience it helps it seal. I asked him "wouldn't they do that from the factory then?" and he gave me a puzzled look. So clearly there's some disagreement on the subject but the path I am taking will be to use gasket remover and a razor blade to scrape the remaining nasties away to leave as factory of a finish as possible. The worst part seems to be an almost invisible film of a teflon like material which is on the entire block deck. I imagine some people don't realize that this is there and it's a cause of future failures. I wouldn't have realized it either except for some of this material came off towards the front. Also when you use just a plastic scraper on the traces of the red surround material off, there seems to be a higher level of the teflon like stuff underneath. Any way around it, it looks to be one of those jobs you do 3 times if you want to be sure it's perfect. Once I'm done I'll meticulously shopvac/blow out the pistons and everything else that might have gotten any grit. I'm contemplating using something like a rifle cleaner down the oil passageways but i can't decide if this would be good or if I should just let it alone and hope the oil filter traps any particles that might not have gotten vacuumed up. If you google around, this whole process seems to be hugely glossed over in favor of meticulous descriptions of bolt torques and assembly instructions. But seems to me that if it can be worth shaving off 0.001" off your head, it's probably an important step. Most sites say "clean the block deck thoroughly". Nice for a first timer :-P Thanks for everything guys, Mark On Mon, 2007-02-12 at 00:34 -0600, David Thomas wrote: > Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2007 22:29:29 -0800 > From: David Thomas <dave@sasdatalink.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Head Gasket - Reassembly Prep Question > > On Sunday 11 February 2007 10:04 pm, Mark Duckworth wrote: > > But brake clean and a plastic scraper/scotchbrite is what I'll try next. > > Someone somewhere said stay far away from scotchbrite. I think it was > > vac! > > I 2nd Mark's comment about VAC: Are you sure that's what they said? I could > see using a very fine high quality wet paper...but even then not with the > block in the car where it cant be cleaned after the sanding. > > As for the scotchbrite...a lot of engine builders will tell you to stay away > from it and I think its good advice. Those tiny scotchbrite fibers will > scratch every bearing surface they get pumped past if you don't get them all > out...and with the block still in the car that can be very difficult if not > impossible. I certainly have used plenty of scotchbrite over the years on > cleanup during rebuilds, but I don't anymore, at least not on anything that's > not completely removed from the car. For cleaning the deck on iron blocks I > use a good quality spring steel scraper and carb or brake cleaner. Should be > all you need. > > Dave T. > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > >

Reply to: Mark Duckworth

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